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On the Camino, on this date in October

trecile

Camino Addict
Past OR future Camino
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
The thread that I started last year has become rather long, so here's a new thread to post pictures, musings, etc. from any year for any dates in October on any Camino.

When you respond, please mention the year, route you were on and where you walked (or rested) that day. Thanks!

Also, if you are posting multiple pictures upload them as thumbnails.
 
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mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 1 and 2, 2004
Trinidad de Arre and Cizur Menor


It was a hot day, but thankfully walking on the CF to Trinidad de Arre was easier than down to Zubiri. The path was a rich mix; medieval bridges criss-crossed the famous Arga River where Hemingway had liked to fish and Coke machines were now installed to serve thristy pilgrims!

Trinidad de Arre, camino 1.JPG

After 13 km I arrived at Arre and the small monastery La Trinidad. Scenically located on a riverbank, it also had been an important pilgrim refuge throughout the ages. The Marist father offered a most refreshing glass of cold water as he stamped my Credencìal.

Accommodations were in a refitted barn within the simple monastery garden. Sitting outside writing my diary all seemed timeless.
Happily, I was starting to relax and feel at one with the trail.


Next morning I walked to/ through the city of Pamplona after entering via the Portal de Francia. Like most cities and towns along the trail here urban development is closely associated with the history of the Camino Frances. During the Middle Ages ‘burgos de francos’ or independent neighborhoods had been settled by former pilgrims.

The cathedral interior and Gothic cloister were filled with priceless treasures. To visit I paid the lesser pilgrim price by showing my Credencial.

Cizur Menor 2004.jpg

The weather turned hot and humid so I stopped in Cizur Menor at the well-known private refuge run by the Roncal family for more than 50 years. Seeing a scallop shell hung at their open doorway I immediately sensed that pilgrims were welcome to enter.
 
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AJGuillaume

Pèlerin du monde
Past OR future Camino
Via Gebennensis (2018)
Via Podiensis (2018)
Voie Nive Bidassoa (2018)
Camino Del Norte (2018)
On the Camino del Norte, 2 October 2018
Our wedding anniversary is on 2 October, and three years ago, I wouldn't have found a better place to celebrate 36 years with the love of my life than on the Camino.
39 years today, and we hope we'll celebrate our 40th anniversary on the Camino in 2022, after our Australian borders open.
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frbobs

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Camino Frances-(2014)
Camino Portugues-(2017)
Camino Madrid (August 2019)
The French Way, October 2014.
The first picture is just past San Anton Monastery, toward Castrojeriz , on Oct 1st. The next one is in Astorga, Oct. 11th, and the next two are between the Cruz de Ferro and Ponferrada, Oct. 13th. The last one is just before Sarria, Oct.17th.
Thanks for the reminder to reminisce a bit. It is still a vivid, almost surreal, memory of a life altering experience. Peace, Bob

Camino Oct 1st 2014.jpg Astorga.jpg Camino Oct 2014.jpg cruz de ferro Oct 13th.jpg Camino Sun.jpg
 

stevelm1

Recovering Perigrino
Past OR future Camino
CF 2015, CP 2019, Jakobswege Germany 2022 or 23.
The morning of Oct 2, 2015 I was just leaving Carrión de los Condes on the Camino Frances, beginning that long 17 km walk to Terradullos. It was a cool start to the day, but it was not raining. I remembered to look back every few minutes to catch the sunrise. The trail was very populated. I got a series of photos that morning. Here are two. You may not remember the lake along the road as it only exists in my camera. ;-)
 

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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 3 and 4, 2004
Puente la Reina


Climbing up the Alto de Perdon on the CF was hard and steep. Those hills pardon no one. The landscape was beige beneath gray clouds; the air chilly.

Suddenly my knees throbbed and my nose bled. Lying on the side of the trail with my eyes closed I felt a tap on my shoulder; “Are you all right?” asked a very British voice.

Opening my eyes I saw a young fellow with long hair, wearing a gray kimono, black obi sash and wooden clogs! While wondering if I were hallucinating I answered that I was ok. Nodding he went on and soon I did also.

Alto de Perdon, camino 1.JPG

Near the summit this huge, handsome contemporary sculpture in rusted steel silhouetted pilgrim figures and their packs against the dark grey sky.
Going down was pure hell on slippery stones; by the time I hobbled into Puente la Reina I could barely move.

Stopping for the night at the refuge of the Padres Reparadores I met again and queried the kimono-clad fellow. He wears it because he “likes it” and walks the trail continually because he “can’t go home”.


Puente La Reina .jpg

My knees ached so much that I decided to spend an extra day in Puente la Reina. Since pilgrims can generally only spend one night at each albergue, early morning I dragged myself across this famous Romanesque bridge after which the town is named, checked into a new private refuge and was back asleep by 9 am!

Late afternoon I practiced walking leaning heavily on my stick. Unwilling to be grounded after only one week and unable to imagine mounting up into a train to return to Paris, I gritted my teeth determined to persevere. ...
 
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Rowena

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Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
October 4, 2015 Bercianos to Reliegos

It rained all day. A strong wind came at us relentlessly from the left, so that the rain fell almost horizontally. We got really wet, but only on one side. The flat featureless landscape was made even duller by the rain. The albergue was cold and damp and the clothes and boots didn’t dry out overnight. The weather was part of hurricane Joaquin out in the Atlantic. Anyone else remember walking in that?

FF5B5D5D-1750-40D7-AD45-F89B2958B448.jpeg
 
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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 5 and 6, 2004
Villatuerta and Estella

Cirauqui, Roman ruins.jpg

There were many ups and downs walking toward Villatuerta on the CF. At Cirauqui crossing this ruined Roman bridge alone and climbing/crawling up the distant precarious "steps" of irregular stones was nerve wracking. Using my stick for balance was vital.

towards Villatuerta, camino 1.JPG

Further along near Lorca the path was easier and broader following antique cart routes and crossing another (restored) Roman bridge.

At Villatuerta I stopped for the night in a simple albergue within a new brick building on the Calle Major. Two men, one Spanish one German, were the other pilgrims; our common language was pantomine spiced with much laughter.


east of Estella.jpg

Next morning walking was easy; dense vegetation lined the slightly descending path towards Estella

Estella , cross.jpg


This cross marked arrival into Estella on the south side of the river Ega. Set amidst small conical hills the beautiful sandstone town dating from Roman times mainly developed in the 12-13th c. due to the ecclesiatical/commercial importance of the Camino or Rúa as it was known locally.

My knees hurt but it was too early to enter the municipal albergue; thus I just sat in the nearby tourist office. The helpful guy who staffed it spoke several languages; he had lived in NYC for a while and we compared memories of favorite haunts. The café he suggested for lunch might have been in NYC's Soho! It was so pleasant that I later returned for an early dinner in the patio with other pilgrims. ...All in all this was a happy day.
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 7, 2004
to Villamayor de Monjardin



This day would prove to be both aesthetically and socially perfect.

5 km west of Estella I watched as dawn lit the isolated monumental Irache Abbey.

Irache, sunrise, camino 1.JPG

After circumscribing the exterior 12th c. buildings I entered the Romanesque church.

Monastery of Santa Maria de Irache.jpg

All was Cistercian and unadorned; the stone walls and imposing pillars were illuminated by a few slender alabaster windows. Peace reigned. It was a privilege to experience such a special place.

The next 7 km of route climbed through vineyards to Villamayor de Monjardin.

Villamayor de Monjardin, camino 1.JPG

Tired I stopped at a storefront for a welcome drink. Upon discovering that this was a tiny albergue run by the church parish I stayed.

The vivacious Spanish housefather hung his wash in the churchyard. During the afternoon other pilgrims staggered in. The housefather cooked a simple meal for all. We shared it sitting together outdoors in the dark; the roadside was our dining 'room'.

There were a few Spanish fellows, a young couple from Venezuela, and three women, one Spanish, one Norwegian, and me, the token American.
...It was a great mix of pilgrims, vibes and especially, caritas!
 
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mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 8 and 9, 2004
Los Arcos and Torres del Rio


East of Los Arcos, camino 1.jpg

Sad at moving on I slowly walked 12 km to Los Arcos across these seemingly endless fields.

The municipal albergue seemed over crowded and noisy. However, it was nice to meet again the Venezuelan couple from the previous night in Villamayor de Monjardin; we three lamented the drastic change of mood.

Next morning after 10 km through more vineyards beneath a deep blue sky, I arrived at Torres del Rio. Here is found a small octagonal Romanesque church, Santo Sepulcro.

Santo Sepulcro.JPG

Some historians link this to the Knights Templar who protected the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem; others link it to the nearby monastery at Irache. Whatever, it is a small gem.

Santo Sepulcro, interior.jpg

Looking up into the ceiling of the central cupola crossed by ribbed vaults which form eight-sided stars was mesmerizing.
 
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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 10, 2004
towards Viana


The section of the CF west of Torres del Rio crossed a deep ravine described on maps as mataburros or the mule-killer; not wanting to add to my physical woes, I decided to follow a road and avoid the trail.

Towards Viana%0A.jpg

Within central Viana the municipal albergue dorms had bunks in triple tiers! Luckily I found a bottom one.Very crowded the space soon resembled a movie scene of a tightly packed WW2 troop ship! Since some troops were “très sportif" those upper bunks kept swaying back and forth throughout the night.
 
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Rowena

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Frances(2015, 2018) Le Puy-SJPP(2016) Geneva Way(2017) Portugués Muxia Fisterra(2019) Invierno(2021)
Thank you, @mspath. I have been following your 2004 journey with interest. I imagine the Frances was much less crowded on your first Camino than on mine.

I remember this day being the important Spanish holiday, having difficulty finding a place to stay, and ending up at the hotel in Ambasmestas. The hotel dinner time was too late, so supper was a rather tough bocadillo from a bar across the street.
 

mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 11, 2004
Logroño

towards Logroño .jpg


Walking on the CF towards the prosperous city of Logroño and the endless vineyards of La Rioja was an easy pleasure


Logrono, Iglesia de Santiago el Real.jpg


In the city center the majestic church, Iglesia de Santiago el Real, is dedicated to Saint James. On the Baroque south entrance, best seen from the Calle Santiago. Saint James is depicted in two different guises associated with his legend.

Santiago el Real, detail 1%0A.jpg


On the lower level just above the door Saint James appears as a gentle pilgrim wearing a broad brimmed hat and cape, holding a staff and shell.


Santiago el Real, detail 2%0A.jpg

On the upper level Saint James is the Matamoros/Moor slayer. As a valiant warrior he rides a spirited white horse beneath which lie slain Moors.

This pose is associated with the imaginary/legendary battle site of Clavijo where in the 9th c. the Spanish while fighting the Moors "saw" in the sky an apparition of Saint James on horseback. The Spanish would be victorious and, thus, began the Reconquest of Spain.

Of course, in today’s ecumenical and/or politically correct world this pose is a no-no..
 
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On or around this date, in October of 2006, we were on the Portuguese route (central).
My gosh, was I ever this young?

One photo is of the Carvalho Oak. My last name is Carvalho and my family was originally from this area (after arriving from the Middle East there) They then settled in the Azore Islands. The surname "Carvalho" means oak tree. Many Jews and Moslems were forced to change their religion to Catholic, and those who did had their surnames also changed to names of trees and plants like Carvalho (oak) and Periera (pear) and Castanheira (chestnut), Silva (bramble). So this sacred tree was a fun find!

The other photos are why I don't care for that central route. We Portuguese are known for our crazy driving and there was literally no shoulder to walk on. We held our sticks high with bright orange handkerchiefs tied to the top to alert drivers (hopefully) that we were coming round the corner. Nerve wracking!
 

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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 13, 2004
to Nájera


Navarrete, cemetery.JPG

Entering Navarrete I had passed ruins of a medieval pilgim hostel and on the west of the town this doorway from that hostel was repurposed as the cemetery entrance.

Vineyard, near Nájera.jpg

Crossing vineyards beneath a deep blue sky the 16 km hike towards Nájera was pleasant, despite the orange colored mud.

Nájera, cliffs and caves.jpg

Nájera is sited along the river Najerilla at the base of high, red sandstone cliffs and caves. The Arabic name means place between the rocks.

Nájera, monastery.jpg

The town’s major monument is the medieval monastery of Santa Maria la Real; in 2004 it was closed for major renovation.
 
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jsalt

Jill
Past OR future Camino
Portugués, Francés, LePuy, Rota Vicentina, Norte, Madrid, C2C, Salvador, Primitivo, Aragonés, Inglés
Leaving Deba Albergue on the Norte, 13 October 2016. I really liked this albergue above the railway station, although I have no idea why. It was completo and a really nasty virus was going around, so that everyone sounded as though they were sick that night . . .
DebaAlbergue.jpg
 
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mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 15, 2004
Granon


Trudging across an ocher landscape beneath a heavy sky and against a biting wind I arrived at Granon. I’m so glad that I stopped!

Open all day the parish albergue withn the belfry of the church of San Juan Bautista, was special. The sign read “Welcome pilgrim make this your home”.

Granon, camino 1.jpg

This handsome common room had a fireplace and comfortable furnishing. Above on a large balcony were mats to place beneath your sleeping bag. Kitchen and toilets were new and well equipped. One could really relax.

In the early evening we pilgrims were invited to attend mass. The church was filled with splendid 16th c. pieces.

Granon, church art, camino 1.jpg

Later the gregarious priest joined us pilgrims upstairs for dinner. Townspeople offered food. ...Authenticity and true caritas made Granon unique.
 

Rowena

Member
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October 15, 2015

The early morning phenomenon of the “floating islands” before Palas de Rei

E614BE46-965D-4EA3-8BE3-84A23E55E939.jpeg

October 15, 2016

Leaving Aire sur L’Adour, on the Le Puy route to SJPP, and the first glimpse of the Pyrenees on the horizon

A975AA2F-C3C8-43DE-9201-5A2C4549B2C2.jpeg 0B274E8E-3D1C-4816-B2C1-85FB1CF68C48.jpeg
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 16, 2004
near Redecilla del Camino


West of Granon the CF entered the region of Castille and Leon.

Castille and Leon, sign.jpg

Relentless wind and cold air necessitated gloves, muffler and a woolly cap. Walking seemed easier; my knees no longer hurt. One pilgrim passed wearing a shirt that read ‘slow, but dependable’; that should be my motto!

Redecilla del Camino.jpg

I stopped at Redecilla del Camino to see this handsome Romanesque baptismal font which is carved in a circular pattern depicting towers and windows.
 
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mspath

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Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 17, 2004
Villafranca Montes de Oca


The wind had ceased so walking the CF to Villafranca Montes de Oca across farm fields felt easier.

Villafranca Montes de Oca.jpg

Within a repurposed school on the N-120 route, the municipal albergue was simple, but definitely sufficient.

The front door was open.
In the entry was a pilgrim registry to sign with a simple welcome notice stating:
.....The dorm was up the stairs,
.....Choose a bunk upon arrival,
.....The hospitalera would stamp/collect later

Furthermore showers were on the ground floor and toilets next to the dòrm. Shower water was hot, radiators were warm and blankets were plentiful.

After choosing a bunk by unrolling my sleeping bag I set out for food. At the restaurant/truck stop nearby, only the bar was open yet the bartender/cook quickly produced fried eggs with mountain ham, fresh bread and vino tinto for my afternoon "snack."

...Nothing else was necessary; what more could any pilgrim need or want?
 

trecile

Camino Addict
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Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
Leaving Deba Albergue on the Norte, 13 October 2016. I really liked this albergue above the railway station, although I have no idea why. It was completo and a really nasty virus was going around, so that everyone sounded as though they were sick that night . . .
View attachment 111142

I also really liked that albergue too.
 

Rowena

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October 17, 2015
Santiago at last!

90D7FD0B-A06F-4C1E-9CA0-4CC26363C508.jpeg


October 17, 2019
The first day on the Camino Portugués, starting at the cathedral in Porto. Mist floated above the narrow winding cobbled streets, and shrouded the city with its delicate film. Smoke rose from the many roasted chestnut carts and a fine drizzle permeated the air.

2968E527-689F-4AD6-9DA2-93A9DD834731.jpeg

I spent the first night in Matosinhos at the Pensao Central, ready to walk along the coast to Vila do Conde the next day before crossing to the Central route.
 
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mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 18, 2004
San Juan de Ortega



Monte de Oca 18.10.2004.JPG

Within the Montes de Oca forest
where a dirt road crossed the CF this white van was parked; a tall bearded fellow asked in English “would you like to rest and have a tea?” Slightly dubious, but glad to sit, I did.

We chatted about the weather, the Camino, and, more philosophically, purpose in life. His was helping pilgrims. When I asked “Are you and your tea always accepted?” “Generally”, he answered, “but the French rarely stop!” Right on cue a French couple came into view. When he offered tea I added “C’est très bon!” ;they stopped.

After we all had tea I continued to the monastery of San Juan de Ortega. Here are more memories of that afternoon/evening at the monastery.
 
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Rowena

Member
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October 18, 2019
Matoshinos to Vila do Conde on the Camino Portugués. I loved that walk beside the ocean.

4C6717FF-F471-4D38-A335-86B5A757CC21.jpeg
 

mspath

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Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
October 19, 2004
Cardenuela


In chill rain I slowly walked west out of the Montes de Oca forest to Olmos de Atapuerca.

towards Cardenuela.jpg

Looking towards Villaval, Cardenuela Riopico and Burgos on the distant horizon, the rolling greenery was broken only by the giant curve of the trail. Reduced to basics this was a perfect image; not an imagined vision, but a memorable vista. Alone on that endless path beneath the vast dome of an immense sky I sensed that this was, indeed, my way and all was and would be good.

Later at Cardenuela after the barkeeper served a copious pilgrim menu he handed me a key to the brand new municipal albergue. In the evening the jubilant mayor knocked at the albergue door and formally shook my hand. After watching me to sign the new pilgrim register, he left. ...Alone for the night I relaxed; it had been a tiring day.
 
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