One week on the Camino Frances

[Viejo]

Having recently returned from walking the CF from StJPdP to Santiago, my gushing enthusiasm has prompted several family members (wife, brother-in-law, brother-in-law's wife) to ask me to "lead" them on a one-week segment of the trail. They are not interested in obtaining the compostela, but are looking for scenic beauty, cultural and historical landmarks, and convenience. These are people in their mid-50's who would probably be most comfortable hiking less than 15 km. per day. Given these constraints, what would be your suggestions for the ideal one week on the camino?

 

[SYates]

How happy are they going up/downhill? Which time of the year are you thinking to go? I might be the one out, but Burgos>Leon comes to my mind. Buen Camino, SY

PS Just one word of caution - I have experienced such bouts of enthusiasm also - by the third prep meeting they all found an excuse why they couldn't go - just now. Just level your preparation work with their level of commitment - not less, but certainly not more ;-)

 

[Viejo]

I would guess moderate up/downhill (I would avoid taking them on the first day from SJPP to Roncesvalles) and probably spring or fall. Yeah, I have my doubts about their level of commitment, especially since wife and sister-in-law have borderline OCD when it comes to hygiene and cleanliness, but I thought the query about the ideal one-week segment would provoke some interesting responses.

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

Having recently returned from walking the CF from StJPdP to Santiago, my gushing enthusiasm has prompted several family members (wife, brother-in-law, brother-in-law's wife) to ask me to "lead" them on a one-week segment of the trail. They are not interested in obtaining the compostela, but are looking for scenic beauty, cultural and historical landmarks, and convenience. These are people in their mid-50's who would probably be most comfortable hiking less than 15 km. per day. Given these constraints, what would be your suggestions for the ideal one week on the camino?

depends on the time of year. if in the summer, the Glician section of the CF. if in the spring/autumn, perhaps Puente la Reina onwards... Good luck

 

[Felipe]

For landscapes, convenience, services, monuments, beautiful cities and villages, great food, I'd choose Roncesvalles and start walking, and let the final point to be determined. But it could be Estella (90 km) or Los Arcos (112 km). See the distances calculator in Godesalco guide.
Estella is a more "spectacular" city, as a final destination.
The only moderately difficult sections are the last kms before Zubiri (but I think they will love starting in a monastery in the middle of a forest) and the not long descent of Sierra del Perdón.
I think you do well being careful, but on the other side, people in their mid-50s could walk easily longer distances. In this forum, they would be even considered as "junior members".

 

[SYates]

Starting in Roncesvalles - with the traditional pilgrims blessing! - and see how far they get sounds also reasonable. Perhaps they could even reach Logroño (wine/tapas capital of the Rioja and good traffic hub)? Buen camino, SY

 

[MTtoCamino]

I smile at IF you get them started & they end up liking to shop more than walk, depending on how you like a quiet walk you should make sure the routes for 1 week going thru cities

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

They are not interested in obtaining the compostela, but are looking for scenic beauty, cultural and historical landmarks, and convenience. These are people in their mid-50's who would probably be most comfortable hiking less than 15 km. per day. Given these constraints, what would be your suggestions for the ideal one week on the camino?

My thought is Pamplona to Logrono. Easy transportation at both ends, just a bit of up and down and about 95 km / 60 miles between them so less than 10 miles a day on average or 10 miles each and a day to do sight-seeing. The Brierley guide has this as 4 day walk. There are some bigger towns along this stretch and you could find fancier accommodations. The scenery before Pamplona and in Galicia is somewhat like the northeastern U.S. so Pamplona to Logrono gives them something different than they may be used to. From Logrono to Astorga you have the meseta and that may be too different.

[Edited to rearrange sentences]

 

[Christian Hiriart]

Starting in Roncesvalles - with the traditional pilgrims blessing! - and see how far they get sounds also reasonable. Perhaps they could even reach Logroño (wine/tapas capital of the Rioja and good traffic hub)? Buen camino, SY

Hi SY

Can you please tell us about the Pilgrims Blessing in Roncesvalles, I'm not familiar with that.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[naplesdon]

The euphoria vanishes shortly after the people have fallen in love with your experience and then look at their "real" lives, commitments and calendars. It's downer and I know because I've been there.

 

[Kanga]

I'd start them at SJPDP, walk the Valcarlos route, stopping overnight in Valcarlos (splitting the walk over the Pyrenees into two 15km days) then stay overnight in Roncesvalles, then maybe Corazon Puro, then maybe Larasoaña, Pamplona, and finish in a triumphal last stretch, on top of the Alta del Perdon (arrange a taxi back to Pamplona!).

Scenic beauty aplenty, interesting villages - Arneguy with a history of smuggling contraband and today still visited by the French to buy Spanish products, and Valcarlos, the place where Charlemagne was routed by the Basques. The pilgrim mass at Roncesvalles, an exploration of the museum there and the church and monastery, stop to have a look at Burguete and explore the hotel in which Hemingway wrote "The Sun Also Rises", lots of coffee and meal stops in the villages along the way, and everything in Pamplona - Cathedral, tapas, bull-ring, Cabildo, breakfast of chocolate and churros in one of the restaurants in the Paza Mayor - you could spend days there you wanted to.

As a "tour guide" it would be really worthwhile boning up on the history and culture of the towns and villages you will visit with "The Pilgrim Road to Santiago - the complete cultural handbook" by Gitlitz and Davidson.

 

[SYates]

Hi SY

Can you please tell us about the Pilgrims Blessing in Roncesvalles, I'm not familiar with that.

Thanks,
Chris

At the end of the mass, which is mainly aimed at pilgrims, the priest calls all pilgrims that wish to receive a blessing forward (I think if numbers are too big pilgrims are just asked to stay in their pews) and blesses them (typically in many languages) with this traditional blessing:

"Oh God, You who took up your servant Abraham from the city of Ur of the
Chaldeans, watching over him in all his wanderings.

You who were the guide of the Hebrew people in the desert, we ask that You deign
to take care of these your servants who, for love of your name, make a pilgrimage
to Compostela.

Be a companion for them along the path, a guide at crossroads, strength in their
weariness, defense before dangers, shelter on the way, shade against the heat, light
in the darkness, a comforter in their discouragements, and firmness in their
intentions, in order that, through your guidance, they might arrive unscathed at the end of their
journey and, enriched with graces and virtues, they might return safely to their
homes, which now lament their absence, filled with salutary and lasting joy.
Through Jesus Christ Your Son, Who lives and reigns with You, in the unity of the
Holy Spirit, one God, for ever and ever."

Full text and liturgical answers can be found here: http://www.206tours.com/info/elcamino/prayers.htm

It is a lovely and moving start of the pilgrimage for many, Buen Camino, SY

 

[mspath]

SY is so right; mass with the pilgrim blessing at Roncesvalles is very poignant.

Although 10 caminos provide limitless memories for which I am forever grateful, January 24, 2009, was singular.

I had walked 5 hours through strong wind, heavy rain, sleet and eventually dense snow up the Valcarlos route to the almost mythic monastery of Roncesvalles! Saw few people and no other pilgrims on the route; needed to ring the the monastery bell to ask for shelter and would be the only pilgrim staying in the frigid old winter albergue tucked opposite the cloister entrance.

When opening the monastery door the surprised monk greeted me saying "Senora in weather like this!" After stamping my Credential and offering hot tea, he invited me to the evening mass and benediction. As always it was lovely. The service was held in the ancient Romanesque church (wonderfully heated!!) in front of the magnificent silver sculpture of the Virgin. Three monks assisted and asked me to stand with them at the altar. ...In retrospect how special it was that snowy night to be the single pilgrim where crowds have stood and will continue to stand throughout time. ...

Margaret Meredith

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

A truly blessed Camino moment and memory to treasure forever.

How wonderful, Margaret.

 

[Christian Hiriart]

Thanks SY, now I'm looking forwards to it.

Margaret, that's a great story. Thanks for sharing.

Chris

 

[Felipe]

Last time, after the Mass and the pilgrim's blessing, the officiant tooks us for a visit to the church and the Colegiata, including the crypt with the restored mural paintings and the sarcophagus of king Sancho VII the Strong. It was very interesting.
I don'tknow if they do the same in summer, with so many pilgrims; we were no more than 30, then.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Since this proposed trip is not a true pilgrimage I hope forum members will forgive me for mentioning the following.

In my Pamplona to Logrono suggestion I didn't forget the Alto Del Perdon (I wrote "just a bit of up and down") but that might be too much for your relatives. If you think so consider a raft trip around the mountain. The Hotel Jakue has a Pamplona to Puente de Reina trip. Their webpage (in Spanish) is http://www.chofert.com/detalle/pase...puente-la-reina-barcas-raft-rally-fotográfico and a Google translation is at https://translate.google.com/transl...aft-rally-fotogr%C3%A1fico&edit-text=&act=url

 

[AlwynWellington]

I'm with @Rick of Rick and Peg on this. Pamplona to Logrono would be my choice also. This route starts and ends in major towns with lots of retail therapy opportunities: works if bags are sent on each morning.

If possible, avoid the descent on Sierra del Perdon. Try a taxi (van) from Zariquiegui to Eunate and walk on to Obanos or Gares / Puente la Reina.

If they get hooked on that five days or so they may want to come back for the continuation to Burgos with the knowledge there is a very good bus service between all these towns.

I suggest arriving in Madrid and coach/ bus to your start point as another way to see the countryside.

Kia kaha ( be brave be strong)

 

[GillRichardson]

My husband, daughter and I recently did a week-long walk on the Camino, from Pamplona to Logrono. We walked roughly the distances you mention. It was a lovely walk and I'd highly recommend it. I did a blog of our walk, with lots of details and photos, you can find it here if you are interested.

 

[JMarshall]

Why not walk the Camino Ingles? It fits the distances, and has glimpses on almost all the different terrains on the different Caminos along with the excitement of seeing the spires of the Cathedral as you approach Santiago.

Another suggestion, since the Compostela isn't that important would be to walk from Santiago to Fisterre and then on to Muxia!

Either of these would provide the distances, culture and countryside views with less difficult transportation arrangements required to get to the starting point. Both are less traveled, but there are enough others on the route to provide the camaraderie experience. Both are pastural. I think the route from Oliveroa to Cea to Fisterre to Lires to Muxia is one of the beautiful walks on the Camino. Sunset at the lighthouse at Fisterre is worth a journey by itself. And there are plenty of services along the way (except for Mazaricos where there is really on one Auberge).

Buen camino!

 

[ChloeRose]

Are you dead-set on walking the Camino Frances again? I'd suggest the Le Puy route in France if you're after a more scenic adventure. It's a lot less crowded, so the route has stayed true to it's rural path. It takes you out of the cities and off those ugly and dangerous highways! The section through Basque country (ending in SJPdP) is relatively flat and easy.

 

[Viejo]

Thanks everyone for the great suggestions! I am doubtful my relatives will follow through on their desire to do part of the camino, but I myself may want to take a week or two and try out some of the segments you all have recommended.

 

[CalSue]

Why not walk the Camino Ingles? It fits the distances, and has glimpses on almost all the different terrains on the different Caminos along with the excitement of seeing the spires of the Cathedral as you approach Santiago.

Another suggestion, since the Compostela isn't that important would be to walk from Santiago to Fisterre and then on to Muxia!

Either of these would provide the distances, culture and countryside views with less difficult transportation arrangements required to get to the starting point. Both are less traveled, but there are enough others on the route to provide the camaraderie experience. Both are pastural. I think the route from Oliveroa to Cea to Fisterre to Lires to Muxia is one of the beautiful walks on the Camino. Sunset at the lighthouse at Fisterre is worth a journey by itself. And there are plenty of services along the way (except for Mazaricos where there is really on one Auberge).

Buen camino!

View attachment 28750

Is this photo on the Camino Ingles or the road to Fisterre. So beautiful!