oursonpolaire said:
Signing at Spanish churches is uneven and sometimes the hospitalero will not know when evening masses. Remember that Spain, which a very RC country, has a strong anti-clerical element, and many people will have no idea about when church services happen. However, ask around, especially near the church, and you'll be given the information you need. In most village churches, the rosary is said by volunteers about 20 minutes before the mass. In my experience, congregants have been delightfully warm and welcoming-- they appreciate it greatly when pilgrims attend.
Yes, that was my experience too. My first pilgrims mass wasn't until Los Arcos (I did not overnight in Roncesvalles) and somehow missed them for a while. I decided to go on inside of Santa Maria a bit ahead of time to be able to take some photographs. The church is beautiful, serene and welcoming. Not many pilgrims were inside, but there were about 2 or 3 sitting in the pews and all of a sudden, one of the pilgrims sang Ave Maria. The acoustic in this church is breathtaking. Her voice was so angelic, it was magical. The church was filling up with local folks and I realized I had taken a permanent seat of one woman and started to get up to find another seat. Ah, but no, she insisted for me to stay, everyone shuffled a seat, and she held my hand the whole time during the rosary, while moving the beads along with the other hand. All this time the light was very dim in the church and night was approaching, and what little light that was coming from the windows, was fading and by the time the priest and his helpers entered the church, it was rather dark. "click, click, click and someone turned on the lights. In an instant, all you saw was blinding shining light from the alter. I don't particular recall the version of pilgrims blessing we got that evening (they seem to vary by the style of the priest performing), but the overall experience was something that moved me to tears, moved my heart and from then on, it felt right to attend pilgrims mass whenever possible. Pretty soon, I too was praying the Rosary - in Spanish. I do not speak Spanish, but I prayed Spanish.
It was easy to go to church in Spain, eventually the faith of the people move you, there is an energy that spills over and you are embraced by it. Each church is different, but each time, I felt very welcomed as a pilgrim. The older folks love us, I had a list of names by the time I reached Santiago, with their request to hug the Saint for them. I did, my second early morning, when hardly anyone is in the cathedral, I read their names out loud whilst touching the Saint.
I don't think you have to be religious in any way to feel the blessings bestowed. However, if you are, you are in for a gift.