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Sahagun worth it for tourism?

camster

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Francés 2023
I know you can get a halfway point compostella at the tourism office, but are there enough things to see to spend a whole day there? Since it's close to Mansilla de las Mulas and Leon, I don't want to stop days at a time too often, close in range. Same question for Mansilla de las Mulas.. Thanks!
 
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The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Both cute towns, but you probably won't need a whole day in either. There is a book called the Pilgrimage Road to Santiago by Gitlitz and Davidson. You can get it on an ebook. It tells you most of the history of things in each town on the CF. That might help you decide what you want to see?
Oh thank you so much. Yes, I want to know what I'm looking at and understand it, too. I'll download it, thanks!
 
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We spent several days in Sahagún while Peg recovered from an illness. Enjoyed the place. We were able to spend lots of time on Camino though so that might not be a place for you to stop unless ...

Sahagún's patron saint day is June 12th and they celebrate it over several days. I searched but haven't seen this year's schedule. I suspect that you may want to be at its plaza major around noon on Friday, June 9th though.
 
I know you can get a halfway point compostella at the tourism office
Not at the tourism office, in a church wich name is Virgen Peregrina. Take left before living the city and you will find it.
My advice is that Sahagún and Mansilla are worth spending a few hours in them, but not a whole day. León deserves at least one day, if not two. In addition to the cathedral, do not forget to visit San Isidoro museum: it has a cloister with a piece which is call the "Sixtine of the romanesque art".
 
We spent several days in Sahagún while Peg recovered from an illness. Enjoyed the place. We were able to spend lots of time on Camino though so that might not be a place for you to stop unless ...

Sahagún's patron saint day is June 12th and they celebrate it over several days. I searched but haven't seen this year's schedule. I suspect that you may want to be at its plaza major around noon on Friday, June 9th though.
I would be there more or less around mid-july, so I will be missing it. Thanks though
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Not at the tourism office, in a church wich name is Virgen Peregrina. Take left before living the city and you will find it.
Definitely used to be at the former church turned into a museum. That was on a hill on the exit from town. We got our certificates there in 2015. Since then forum members have been mentioning that it is the tourist office that has them. I believe that is in the center of town near the plaza mayor so I would stop there first to check. [Edit: Google Maps shows it at the town's entry, see below.]

In addition to the cathedral, do not forget to visit San Isidoro museum: it has a cloister with a piece which is call the "Sixtine of the romanesque art".
That was one of the biggest wow moments on our CF camino. The same museum has a room of artifacts and a (baroque?) library. They also have an ancient chalice that research gives a chance for it to be the Holy Grail. It is practically on the Camino. Explore their website. Here is one page to start you off (this is to the English):
 
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Since then forum members have been mentioning that it is the tourist office that has them. I believe that is in the center of town near the plaza mayor so I would stop there first to check.
My friend got her this spring in Virgen Peregrina.
If you go there, ask for the stamp and try to recognize it in one of the mosaics of the (former) church.
 
My friend got her ["halfway" certificate"] this spring in Virgen Peregrina.
Thank you Pafayac. To make sure I wasn't passing on bad advice I did some poking around and discovered that Sahagún's tourist office 2021 webpage for the museum shows a picture of the " halfway" certificate.

My translation of the certificate (which doesn't mention halfway at all) is at https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-trivia.67346/#post-844188

I believe that is in the center of town near the plaza mayor so I would stop there first to check.
I was wrong. Google Maps shows it at the entry into town after crossing train tracks. It's in the same building as the municipal albergue. I still recommend checking here first as the museum may not be open at the time you pass by.
Oficina de Turismo de Sahagún

The Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina is here near the Puente Canto exit from town:
 
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Definitely used to be at the former church turned into a museum. That was on a hill on the exit from town. We got our certificates there in 2015. Since then forum members have been mentioning that it is the tourist office that has them. I believe that is in the center of town near the plaza mayor so I would stop there first to check. [Edit: Google Maps shows it at the town's entry, see below.]


That was one of the biggest wow moments on our CF camino. The same museum has a room of artifacts and a (baroque?) library. They also have an ancient chalice that research gives a chance for it to be the Holy Grail. It is practically on the Camino. Explore their website. Here is one page to start you off (this is to the English):
From what I gather the San Isidoro museum, and the basilica are in Léon and not in Sahagun right?
 
I know you can get a halfway point compostella at the tourism office, but are there enough things to see to spend a whole day there? Since it's close to Mansilla de las Mulas and Leon, I don't want to stop days at a time too often, close in range. Same question for Mansilla de las Mulas.. Thanks!
Both nice small towns, but not worth the whole day. I vote for Leon.

The Gitlitz and Davidson book has a tremendous amount of information, but reads like a textbook. And indeed, it was written by college professors and researched by grad students. It covers absolutely everything, but I found it a very dry read.
 
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Thank you very much for the links and info. I'll have a look.
Wise Pilgrim in the 2023 edition makes no mention of the tourist office issuing the halfway credential. Does not mean that they do not but....
 
We spent an extra day in Sahagún in Fall 2021. It wasn't a matter of planning, but there was in mixup in the date we were meeting another pilgrim there. We thoroughly enjoyed the extra time, and there was a surprising amount of things to do and see. The museum connected with the Cathedral in Burgos was having a multi-city exhibition of religious art, which included the church at the top of the hill in Sahagún, which was beautiful. I think that was at the Iglesia de al Virgen Peregrina. I don't know if there is anything comparably interesting there now. We also hit the town on a market day, and saw the amazing assortments of olives, dried fruit, etc. We went to the Pilgrim Mass in the Monastery albergue, even though we weren't staying there - a lovely, inclusive service. There was a lot of street art and displays of poetry (including, interestingly, by Emily Dickenson) around the city. Food was quite good, and the general history of the area as a significant crossroads was interesting.

My thought is that you can find interesting things to do almost anywhere on the Camino Francés, and sometimes it's fun to explore areas that aren't in the top 10 tourist places. It also looks like you've done the Camino Francés previously, which might make spending extra time "off the beaten track" more appealing. We were happy to have gotten to know Sahagún a bit. Would we spend an extra day in Sahagún if we were ever there again? No, since we saw quite a bit in 2021. But we would gladly stay an extra day in a comparable place.
 
We spent an extra day in Sahagún in Fall 2021. It wasn't a matter of planning, but there was in mixup in the date we were meeting another pilgrim there. We thoroughly enjoyed the extra time, and there was a surprising amount of things to do and see. The museum connected with the Cathedral in Burgos was having a multi-city exhibition of religious art, which included the church at the top of the hill in Sahagún, which was beautiful. I think that was at the Iglesia de al Virgen Peregrina. I don't know if there is anything comparably interesting there now. We also hit the town on a market day, and saw the amazing assortments of olives, dried fruit, etc. We went to the Pilgrim Mass in the Monastery albergue, even though we weren't staying there - a lovely, inclusive service. There was a lot of street art and displays of poetry (including, interestingly, by Emily Dickenson) around the city. Food was quite good, and the general history of the area as a significant crossroads was interesting.

My thought is that you can find interesting things to do almost anywhere on the Camino Francés, and sometimes it's fun to explore areas that aren't in the top 10 tourist places. It also looks like you've done the Camino Francés previously, which might make spending extra time "off the beaten track" more appealing. We were happy to have gotten to know Sahagún a bit. Would we spend an extra day in Sahagún if we were ever there again? No, since we saw quite a bit in 2021. But we would gladly stay an extra day in a comparable place.
I haven't actually done it before. I had planned on going and put that date in my profile :) just changed it.
 
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I second the others in that I wouldn’t spend an entire extra day in Sahagun, I got in there by 2p and enjoyed getting dinner in the plaza and seeing the town wake up in the evening but I’d much prefer an extra day in Leon or doing two small stages instead.
 
I haven't actually done it before. I had planned on going and put that date in my profile :) just changed it.
If this is your first time on the Camino Francés, I can't find fault in the advice of most folks. As much fun as my wife and I had in Sahagún (and we're definitely more of the off-the-beaten-path types), León and other spots on the route offer a whole lot more.

If I were allocating rest/tourist days, and if you're doing the entire SJPP to SdC route, I would prioritize Pamplona, Burgos, León, and Astorga, and one tier below maybe Logroño if you're a big fan of red wine and pinchos (we hit it during a wine festival), Carrión de las Condes and Ponferrada. Villafranca del Bierzo is also a sleeper if you like a beautiful smaller town with some interesting historical sites. It might be worth a longer stage the day before to give you a half-day there if you didn't want to spend a full day.
 
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If you are interested in very old churches San Miguel de la Escalada is really worth checking out. It's on the Camino Vadiniense coming down to Mansilla de las Mulas from the northeast, about 10km from MdlM. If you had an afternoon you could take a cab out and back from Mansilla. Or you could walk there in back with a free day. Theoretically you could also walk off piste from Sahagun to Gredefes on the Vadiniense, stay the night in the albergue there, and walk to Mansilla the next day via San Miguel. You'd need to be able to walk a long day to do that though. It's about 38 km from from Sahagun to Gredefes. If you were to stay in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos (past Sahagun, with both an albergue and Pension) it's only a bit over 24, much more doable.
 
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Read ‘ the Moorish whore’by Rebekah Hall if you are a history buff Worth an extra day. I stayed an extra day after reading the book. An excellent easy read that gives a good account of events during the moorish reign in Spain
 
Read ‘ the Moorish whore’by Rebekah Hall if you are a history buff Worth an extra day. I stayed an extra day after reading the book. An excellent easy read that gives a good account of events during the moorish reign in Spain
I also really liked this book by Rebekah Scott who is an American who lives in Moratinos not too far from Sahagun.
 
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If you are a history buff, there are several Roman Villas in the area. One is a really fine museum of sorts but it a taxi ride from Sahagun. Villa Olmeda in/near Saldana.
Is that the one with an environmental tent to control the temprature/humidity inside the dig area, over the top of it? I went there in 2017, it was a really interesting place, but I had it about 30 miles NE from Sahagun. Still, a very interesting place and good for getting out of the heat for a bit.

I tend to stop at Sahagun every year, but mainly because it has a nice campsite just outside the town. i usually have a night or two there for R&R. This year i may or may not, depending on route plans.
 
There really is no better reference to the history, architecture, art and so on for the Camino Frances than the Gitlitz and Davidson.

Sahagun has some very interesting Mudejar churches. But if the choice is between Leon and Sahagun for a rest day, Sahagun cannot compete.
 
Not at the tourism office, in a church wich name is Virgen Peregrina. Take left before living the city and you will find it.
My advice is that Sahagún and Mansilla are worth spending a few hours in them, but not a whole day. León deserves at least one day, if not two. In addition to the cathedral, do not forget to visit San Isidoro museum: it has a cloister with a piece which is call the "Sixtine of the romanesque art".
Yes, correct. The church was closed for siesta mid afternoon, but re opened later. The nuns were very helpful and gracious. The halfway certificate was worth the wait, it's a lovely document. While it was being prepared, we were able to look around the church and see a wonderful b and w historic photo exhibition.
 
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From what I gather the San Isidoro museum, and the basilica are in Léon and not in Sahagun right?
The San Isidoro and one of the several purported holy grails is indeed in Leon. This one comprises two fine onyx cups which have been joined and, over many centuries, embellished with gold and jewels. It’s splendid; whatever it is.
 
The San Isidoro and one of the several purported holy grails is indeed in Leon. This one comprises two fine onyx cups which have been joined and, over many centuries, embellished with gold and jewels. It’s splendid; whatever it is.
San Isidoro is also noted for the royal pantheon (burial chamber) with its Romanesque painted ceiling, "the Sistine Chapel of Romanesque Art".
 
The story we were told in the royal pantheon, which is fascinating, is that Napoleon's troops came through on their horses and smashed up pretty much all the tombs themselves, but failed to look up at the amazing ceiling and didn't harm it at all. It includes detailed depictions of medieval life in the area and apparently a major basis for understanding the period.
 
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I shall be passing through Sahagun when I finish walking the Camino Madrid this fall. Various pilgrims who have walked the Madrid have mentioned receiving a special certificate in Sahagun for having completed the Camino Madrid. I had not heard of it when I walked that camino in 2019, but may pick one up in Sahagun this year, as a sign of my satisfaction in completing this interesting camino walk.
 
In the early spring of this year, travelling alone on the Camino before Easter I stayed two nights (one full day of rest) in Sahagun. Enjoyed the stay and had a wonderful Camino experience. It was a Monday before Easter (2 weeks before) and everything was closed museum wise. As I was talking to a very nice person at the Tourism office, she said: just wait a moment and zipped out to talk to a gentleman who was very busying moving things from a storage area to a truck via the main door. Turns out, he was the president of the local society that maintains the floats and effigies for the religious processions. He agreed to meet me the church building that is now used to store them in about 15min. He then proceeded to give me a personal tour of the church and the floats in Spanish translated via Google Translate both ways. Incredibly generous with his knowledge and time.



I did not stay there, but I understand the albergue at the monastery is very nice.

 

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Sahagun is certainly a very interesting place, though I thought it was also quite quirky in terms of some of its museums.

I thought the Semanav Santa museum referred to above was quite unnerving in terms of all the figurines.

The Sanctuario de la Virgen Peregrina was an unusual place and somewhere I wouldn't have bothered with had it not been for the gimmicky half way document. However, as well as the garish models in the main basilica, I found the collection of books in the upstairs library to be fascinating but bizarre. So many books on things like witchcraft, myths, legends, mysticism and hunting. The books generally dated from the 50's to the 80's. Many were in English. I spent an hour just looking at the titles. My impression was that they must have been donated from a personal library after a house clearance or something and they hadn't fully understood some of the things they were displaying.
The 'Irish' pub, the Temple is also a really strange place and worth a quick look. It must have cost a lot to deck out and set up only for it now to be in a state of near abandon, with awful beer and food.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I shall be passing through Sahagun when I finish walking the Camino Madrid this fall. Various pilgrims who have walked the Madrid have mentioned receiving a special certificate in Sahagun for having completed the Camino Madrid. I had not heard of it when I walked that camino in 2019, but may pick one up in Sahagun this year, as a sign of my satisfaction in completing this interesting camino walk.
For what it is worth, this is what it looks like. I wasn't able to get it in the museum where they hand out the "half way certificates" but was directed to the Tourist Office in the municipal albergue.
20230808_095348.jpg
 

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