Scenic 100km on southern part of Via de la plata?

[JustJack]

Hi - for those familiar with the route, would you say there are any 100km stretches that are the most scenic?

Some context: I’m hoping to go to Seville with my wife and daughter next March during spring break. While there I’d love to spend around 5 days walking a Camino with them to give them a taste of it. Looking at some videos, it looks like the walk out of Seville for the first few days (or more?) is similar to the meseta (but perhaps not quite as impressive?). Having walked the CF this past spring it looks great to me, but I worry that my wife may find the landscape a bit bland and unimpressive. Certainly it’s not as bucolic and/or dramatic as the first few days out of SJPDP or all of Galicia.

So just wondering if there happens to be a section in the southern half is particularly picturesque.

Or perhaps there’s a particular city/town that shouldn’t be missed.

Basically the question is - if you were taking your wife and teenage daughter on a 100km “preview” of what walking a Camino is, and you wanted to show them the nicest or most interesting part, which section would you walk?

Note I’m focussing on the south of Spain for the better weather. The weather in the north will be too similar to Vancouver in March, otherwise I’d take them to somewhere along the CF.

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[jungleboy]

This isn’t the VdlP but the Vía Serrana is nearby and there are four consecutive stages in the middle from El Colmenar to Coripe that are very beautiful. I have said that I think these would stack up against any four consecutive stages of any camino I have walked. Think canyons, mountain views, olive trees, whitewashed towns and a city perched impossibly on two cliffs (Ronda).

- El Colmenar - Estación Jimera de Líber 22.83km

- Estación Jimera de Líber - Ronda 16.43km

- Ronda - Olvera 27.68km

- Olvera - Coripe 24.63km

To add a fifth day I would probably do the day before these four, which is:

- Jimena de la Frontera - El Colmenar 18.42km

For some context, here’s my live thread and Flickr photo album.

Edit: And a short video from the Cañón de las Buitreras (Canyon of the Vulture Nests):

View attachment IMG_1039.mov

 

[Robo]

That is such a tough question!
Needs a bit of thought, to isolate a 100 km section.....
Let me go through Gronze etc and make a suggestion (back shortly)
But in the meantime this photo gallery might give you an idea of the scenery along the route.......

Camino Gallery 2023 | In Search of Santiago

robscamino.com

I'll suggest some options below as I work them out.

 

[Anamya]

I can't help you with the Via de La Plata, sorry. But if you are in sevilla, I highly recommend taking the fast train to Granada (one of the VdlP starting points) and visiting the Alhambra palace, which was recaptured from the califate by the catholic kings Isabella and Fernando. It is incredibly beautiful.

@Robo, any suggestions? You walked that route recently.
Edit: we posted at the same time!

 

[Robo]

Option 1. Starting not far from Seville.

Start in Castilblanco de los Arroyos, but taxi the first 16 kms on the road.
This gives an easy walk through a stunning National Park to Almaden de la Plata
Maybe aim to finish in Zafra. that would be a bit under 100 kms.

 

[Robo]

Option 2. Starting a bit further North. (do you need to get back to Seville)

Merida (Roman City) to Galisteo (Walled Town). But a bit longer at about 140 kms.

 

[Robo]

Option 3. Hmmm. Nice mix of scenery.

Banos (lovely small town) to Salamanca (Amazing city, plaza mayor, cathedral etc). 99 km.
Mix of scenery. Out of Banos is a bit Galician. Then a bit flatter and more VdlP like after a day.
Interesting place to stay in Fuenterroble. (donativo run by Father Don Blas)

Happy to give more detail as your thoughts/plans come together.
You'll see lots of video on that daily blog with the photo gallery.
Starts here: https://robscamino.com/day-1-seville-to-santiponce-videos/

It's very hard to select a specific 100 km stretch, as there are stunning highlights dotted along the whole route. Walking to the Arco de Cáparra was some of the most beautiful countryside, but that 'section would be hard to compile within a 100 km 'piece' of the VdlP.

I think any of those 3 options would be good.
But also depends on how far you want to walk each day.
Type of accommodation you want etc. (less options that popular routes)
Baggage transfer? There isn't any.

 

[Robo]

Sorry, one last thought.

You want to show them what walking a Camino is like?

Because the VdlP whilst remarkable is not what I would call Camino 101.
(that's really the Frances)
Much fewer places to eat and stay.
Very few Pilgrims for company.
You will know them all by name! You might meet 12-15 max.
It needs a little more planning re food, water etc due to lack of facilities.

But..............it's amazing.

 

[JustJack]

Some great suggestions already - thank you! I was concerned that I’d be told that the VDLP I doesn’t contain the same level of dramatic landscape that the CF does. Sounds like there are some great options for me to research. Thanks again!

 

[JustJack]

Sorry, one last thought.

You want to show them what walking a Camino is like?

Because the VdlP whilst remarkable is not what I would call Camino 101.
(that's really the Frances)
Much fewer places to eat and stay.
Very few Pilgrims for company.
You will know them all by name! You might meet 12-15 max.
It needs a little more planning re fid, water etc due to lack of facilities.

But..............it's amazing.

Extended distances between towns, and fewer places to eat are a concern. Fewer/no pilgrims isn’t a concern. I misspoke when I said I wanted to show them what walking a Camino is like. What I really meant is I want to show them what spending time walking from town to town in a foreign country is like. I wouldn’t classify this as a pilgrimage per se. it’s more about getting them excited about spending part of a vacation practicing “slow tourism” and just appreciating the magic of walking in Spain.

 

[Corned Beef]

Option 1. Starting not far from Seville.

Start in Castilblanco de los Arroyos, but taxi the first 16 kms on the road.
This gives an easy walk through a stunning National Park to Almaden de la Plata
Maybe aim to finish in Zafra. that would be a bit under 100 kms.

Seconder for that one. Particularly like El Real de la Jara which is a nice town. Then the ruins beyond. There is some road walking but not much.

There's also a catch in starting at the National Park as there is a significant climb towards the end. But every climb has a summit viewpoint.

Starting part 2 of the VDLP tomorrow.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Hi - for those familiar with the route, would you say there are any 100km stretches that are the most scenic?

On first thought, I think I'd go with @Robo's option 1, from Castilblanco (with taxi). For a first night, Almaden would be great - there are some nice accommodation options there. And El Real de la Jara is a favourite of mine.
If you make it to Zafra, I'd bus on to Merida, just for the experience.

 

[Robo]

Seconder for that one. Particularly like El Real de la Jara which is a nice town. Then the ruins beyond. There is some road walking but not much.

There's also a catch in starting at the National Park as there is a significant climb towards the end. But every climb has a summit viewpoint.

Starting part 2 of the VDLP tomorrow.

Yes there is a bit of a climb towards the end, and I was concerned after all I had heard about it.
But while it's steep it's not that long.

This video clip starts at the Hill in question for those who have not walked this section.
If I can manage it, anyone can

 

[josephmcclain]

This isn’t the VdlP but the Vía Serrana is nearby and there are four consecutive stages in the middle from El Colmenar to Coripe that are very beautiful. I have said that I think these would stack up against any four consecutive stages of any camino I have walked. Think canyons, mountain views, olive trees, whitewashed towns and a city perched impossibly on two cliffs (Ronda).

- El Colmenar - Estación Jimera de Líber 22.83km

- Estación Jimera de Líber - Ronda 16.43km

- Ronda - Olvera 27.68km

- Olvera - Coripe 24.63km

To add a fifth day I would probably do the day before these four, which is:

- Jimena de la Frontera - El Colmenar 18.42km

For some context, here’s my live thread and Flickr photo album.

Edit: And a short video from the Cañón de las Buitreras (Canyon of the Vulture Nests):

View attachment 155048

Great Photos, thanks!

 

[lt56ny]

So just wondering if there happens to be a section in the southern half is particularly picturesque.

I highly suggest that you take Jungleboy's advice. I loved the VDLP and will walk it again. I never found it to be really "picturesque" for long stretches on southern part of the camino. It is striking for sure in many ways. This camino for me is a far more a camino of the mind and eventually the spirit as opposed to a camino of the body and of a visual feast. It is not a camino I would personally choose if I wanted to be ensconced in the glory of nature's beauty. I am not saying this sarcastically either. For me the VDLP is a camino of solitude and a choice or combination of reflection and/or the clearing out of one's mind and the relaxation of one's spirit.
@jungleboy and his wife have walked many caminos most of us have never heard of before. He is our resident expert on caminos that are really way less traveled. I am sure that the Via Serrana makes the VDLP look as busy as the the Camino Frances. I am also sure it is a camino of natural beauty. Just my guess and opinion.

This isn’t the VdlP but the Vía Serrana is nearby and there are four consecutive stages in the middle from El Colmenar to Coripe that are very beautiful. I have said that I think these would stack up against any four consecutive stages of any camino I have walked. Think canyons, mountain views, olive trees, whitewashed towns and a city perched impossibly on two cliffs (Ronda).

- El Colmenar - Estación Jimera de Líber 22.83km

- Estación Jimera de Líber - Ronda 16.43km

- Ronda - Olvera 27.68km

- Olvera - Coripe 24.63km

To add a fifth day I would probably do the day before these four, which is:

- Jimena de la Frontera - El Colmenar 18.42km

For some context, here’s my live thread and Flickr photo album.

Edit: And a short video from the Cañón de las Buitreras (Canyon of the Vulture Nests):

View attachment 155048

 

[Jan Runkel]

Hi - for those familiar with the route, would you say there are any 100km stretches that are the most scenic?

Some context: I’m hoping to go to Seville with my wife and daughter next March during spring break. While there I’d love to spend around 5 days walking a Camino with them to give them a taste of it. Looking at some videos, it looks like the walk out of Seville for the first few days (or more?) is similar to the meseta (but perhaps not quite as impressive?). Having walked the CF this past spring it looks great to me, but I worry that my wife may find the landscape a bit bland and unimpressive. Certainly it’s not as bucolic and/or dramatic as the first few days out of SJPDP or all of Galicia.

So just wondering if there happens to be a section in the southern half is particularly picturesque.

Or perhaps there’s a particular city/town that shouldn’t be missed.

Basically the question is - if you were taking your wife and teenage daughter on a 100km “preview” of what walking a Camino is, and you wanted to show them the nicest or most interesting part, which section would you walk?

Note I’m focussing on the south of Spain for the better weather. The weather in the north will be too similar to Vancouver in March, otherwise I’d take them to somewhere along the CF.

Thanks for your thoughts!

I would definitely not recommend starting in Sevilla. The stages are long and not particularly scenic. Start from Mérida or Salamanca.

 

[alexwalker]

I would definitely not recommend starting in Sevilla. The stages are long and not particularly scenic. Start from Mérida or Salamanca.

I would start in Merida. Spectacular Roman city.

Roman Theatre - Turismo Mérida

Web oficial de la Delegación de Turismo del Ayuntamiento de Mérida

turismomerida.org

Roman Theatre (Mérida) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

merida theatre images - Google Search

 

[C clearly]

It is not a camino I would personally choose if I wanted to be ensconced in the glory of nature's beauty.

Well said! The VDLP might be my favourite Camino, but not because of the scenery. The joy of the VDLP is in being there for the long haul, and getting familiar with the landscapes. The attractions of the VDLP are subtle.

I'm not sure that it is a great idea to drop into the VDLP for 100 km with companions who aren't sure about their commitment to a Camino. You need to have the right shoes and training for 4 days as for a longer Camino, and 4 days seems like enough time to get frustrated rather than into the groove. The logistics might not be worth the effort.

Maybe just do some day walks - for example, walk out of Merida to the Proserpina Dam (10 km) and back. I particularly like the 2 or 3 days out of Merida. Or walk from Sevilla to Guillena (22 km) and get a taxi back. Visit Granada and/or Cordoba (but be sure to have the tickets reserved for the key attractions).

 

[Kev&Kath]

My wife and I recently completed the Via Augusta as a 'warm up' for the VdlP. The Augusta runs from Cadiz to Seville. It was seven walking days overall…with a rest day in Jerez de la Frontera. This route was a real surprise. We thoroughly enjoyed it, and would certainly consider walking this route again.

Buen Camino!

 

[alexwalker]

Well said! The VDLP might be my favourite Camino, but not because of the scenery. The joy of the VDLP is in being there for the long haul, and getting familiar with the landscapes. The attractions of the VDLP are subtle.

Agree. The VdlP goes through a vast/endless landscape, and some days the whole day's walk can be seen in front of your eyes...

It is very different from other Caminos I have walked: It is also nick-named "El Camino Duro": The hard Camino. Both because of the heat in the region of Extremadura (Meaning: Extremely hard/hot), but also for the length (1005 kms to Santiago), and also for some very long days of nothing, especially the first 4-6 days. Up to 40 kms of nothing, and little or no shade. People have died walking there.

 

[Texas Walker]

Hi - for those familiar with the route, would you say there are any 100km stretches that are the most scenic?

Some context: I’m hoping to go to Seville with my wife and daughter next March during spring break. While there I’d love to spend around 5 days walking a Camino with them to give them a taste of it. Looking at some videos, it looks like the walk out of Seville for the first few days (or more?) is similar to the meseta (but perhaps not quite as impressive?). Having walked the CF this past spring it looks great to me, but I worry that my wife may find the landscape a bit bland and unimpressive. Certainly it’s not as bucolic and/or dramatic as the first few days out of SJPDP or all of Galicia.

So just wondering if there happens to be a section in the southern half is particularly picturesque.

Or perhaps there’s a particular city/town that shouldn’t be missed.

Basically the question is - if you were taking your wife and teenage daughter on a 100km “preview” of what walking a Camino is, and you wanted to show them the nicest or most interesting part, which section would you walk?

Note I’m focussing on the south of Spain for the better weather. The weather in the north will be too similar to Vancouver in March, otherwise I’d take them to somewhere along the CF.

Thanks for your thoughts!

DH wanted me to come here to stand up for some of the most beautiful countryside we have ever walked: the Dehesa of southern Spain.
We walked from Sevilla this spring and got as far as Caceres before heading home to resume later. The walk from Sevilla passes the fascinating Italica (if we had slept at Santiponce we would have also visited the monastery) and the opportunity to photograph about 6 peafowl on a powerline pole. That's not something you see every day! The walking the rest of that day was interesting in a peaceful way, especially right at the outskirts of Santiponce where we encountered a large group of people with cattle-drawn wagons making a romeria with their statue of the Blessed Virgin and many of the people walking between the wagons in their fancy dress-up traditional clothes. The next day's walk was also quite nice, going through groves and fields. We took the taxi from Castilblanco and we were glad we did, as contrary to online speculations that is not a boring, flat road, and the "shoulder" is about 10 inches wide. With a lot of blind curves and a reasonable amount of brisk traffic. This did initiate us into the rolling countryside that we began walking through at the Finca. Yes, there is a small bit of steepness on the hill to the former Calvario (is it really a Calvary if the statues are long, long gone?) and we slept in Almaden. The next day we gradually walked closer into the Dehesa proper, with more and more oaks, scenic rocks, and more rolling countryside. El Real de la Jara was our next night, and Monesterio the following. (The Complejo Leo was also great fun, rather like Spain's answer to Buc-ees, but with added sleeping and more settled eating options.)
A word here for the Dehesa: it's gorgeous. We loved the trees, the rocks, the paths, viewing the cattle and the pigs and the occasional sheep, and we compare it for beauty to the famous Hill Country of central Texas. There is enough up and down that you don't contemplate your day's end for the entire day, and a lovely assortment of flowers to view while passing by.
This would give a nice about 4 days' walk, pleasant but not killer hard, to introduce Camino walking. Gronze has the globe symbol for amenities of the town, so you can most likely get a bus or train ride back to Sevilla or forward to Madrid for your flight home as needed.
BC!

 

[lt56ny]

Well said! The VDLP might be my favourite Camino, but not because of the scenery. The joy of the VDLP is in being there for the long haul, and getting familiar with the landscapes. The attractions of the VDLP are subtle.

I'm not sure that it is a great idea to drop into the VDLP for 100 km with companions who aren't sure about their commitment to a Camino. You need to have the right shoes and training for 4 days as for a longer Camino, and 4 days seems like enough time to get frustrated rather than into the groove. The logistics might not be worth the effort.

Maybe just do some day walks - for example, walk out of Merida to the Proserpina Dam (10 km) and back. I particularly like the 2 or 3 days out of Merida. Or walk from Sevilla to Guillena (22 km) and get a taxi back. Visit Granada and/or Cordoba (but be sure to have the tickets reserved for the key attractions).

It is so interesting to me that the longer I am away from the VDLP the more I want to go back to it. There is something so special and unique. Granted not for everyone but if you walk it and it gets hold of you it doesn’t let you go.

 

[Robo]

Some great points being made.

And I would agree with those who say the VdlP is not a great Camino to get a taste of what the Camino is about. As I said before, it's not Camino 101.

One of the things that concerned me initially in my planning, was the long distances between villages.
We often read about having to walk 30+ kms quite frequently.

I managed to plan sections to my comfort level. 20-25 kms.
Only 4 days were a bit more, 27 - 29 ish.

For anyone considering the VdlP, I'd suggest with a bit of planning, you can break up most of those 'longer' stages that might be of concern. I just used Gronze in planning and on a daily basis when walking, to work out my distances.

Sure I came across people walking longer stages at times, up to 40 kms or more.
Some looked like 'pro' Pilgrims compared to me, and walked really fast.
Super fit, loads (10+) of Caminos walked, a fraction of my age, or all of the above

 

[C clearly]

It is so interesting to me that the longer I am away from the VDLP the more I want to go back to it. There is something so special and unique. Granted not for everyone but if you walk it and it gets hold of you it doesn’t let you go.

Do I remember correctly, though, that you were not really a VDLP fan at the time you were walking?

 

[JustJack]

Lots more great feedback. Thanks everyone. It’s starting to feel like the VDLP is a Camino that I wold love, but it may not be the best one for my family’s introduction. I’ll keep looking at the different options for 5-7 days somewhere in the south of Spain. Some good options have been suggested above.

 

[lt56ny]

Do I remember correctly, though, that you were not really a VDLP fan at the time you were walking?

I had some struggles with it yes that is true. Then when I returned I still could not decide what I had experienced. But as I wrote, as time goes by I realized what happened and I started to realize how much I got out of the experience. Maybe that is the reason I want to get back sooner rather than later. Sometimes it takes a while to sit with life experiences, especially a camino experience.

 

[lt56ny]

Some great points being made.

And I would agree with those who say the VdlP is not a great Camino to get a taste of what the Camino is about. As I said before, it's not Camino 101.

One of the things that concerned me initially in my planning, was the long distances between villages.
We often read about having to walk 30+ kms quite frequently.

I managed to plan sections to my comfort level. 20-25 kms.
Only 4 days were a bit more, 27 - 29 ish.

For anyone considering the VdlP, I'd suggest with a bit of planning, you can break up most of those 'longer' stages that might be of concern. I just used Gronze in planning and on a daily basis when walking, to work out my distances.

Sure I came across people walking longer stages at times, up to 40 kms or more.
But they looked like 'pro' Pilgrims compared to me, and walked really fast.
Super fit, loads (10+) of Caminos walked, a fraction of my age, or all of the above

I completely agree with what you have written Rob. The VDLP would be a really difficult camino for most who have no long distance hiking or other caminos. (although I did meet a young Irishman who had never walked more than a few hour hike in his life and he really was enjoying his experience). I did more planning on this camino than any other. I did familiarize myself before I left to know when I really needed to be prepared. I checked every evening to check over the next few days to make sure I too could keep my stages manageable. I would call ahead (I was walking in late October/November) to make sure albergues were open. I was very careful to make sure if there was any doubt about my next day or so stages to have food and water just in case. etc etc. I too try to keep my stages at about 20-25k also. It all worked out just fine even though there were some hiccups along the way but there always are a few of those.

 

[Robo]

I had some struggles with it yes that is true. Then when I returned I still could not decide what I had experienced. But as I wrote, as time goes by I realized what happened and I started to realize how much I got out of the experience. Maybe that is the reason I want to get back sooner rather than later. Sometimes it takes a while to sit with life experiences, especially a camino experience.

The VdlP is different isn't it? As many are, I'm sure.
Hard to put your finger on, at least for me.
My last Camino was a blend of 4. VdlP to Astorga, CF to Ponferrada, Invierno to Santiago, then Finisterre/Muxia.

I reflected recently on which was 'best' whatever that means. They were all great of course. But the answer surprised me as I neared the end. Bit hard to explain in a short post.

For anyone who might be interested...... Which was the Best

 

[lt56ny]

The VdlP is different isn't it? As many are, I'm sure.
Hard to put your finger on, at least for me.
My last Camino was a blend of 4. VdlP to Astorga, CF to Ponferrada, Invierno to Santiago, then Finisterre/Muxia. I reflected recently on which was 'best' whatever that means. They were all great of course. But the answer surprised me as I neared the end. Bit hard to explain in a short post.

For anyone who might be interested...... Which was the Best

Even though I am leaving for Spain I still am not 100% sure what route I am going to do. Right now I too am doing a "blended" camino also. Most likely I will walk the Vasco from Bayonne to Burgos. Than do the Meseta to Leon. From there bus to Porto and do the Coastal Portugues. If the long term weather outlook is really dismal on the coast I may fall back and walk the Central. But I know I can also cut over to the central if need be.
Maybe when I walk my next VDLP I will be able to put my finger on it better for myself.

 

[lt56ny]

I would start in Merida. Spectacular Roman city.

Roman Theatre - Turismo Mérida

Web oficial de la Delegación de Turismo del Ayuntamiento de Mérida

turismomerida.org

Roman Theatre (Mérida) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

merida theatre images - Google Search

That Roman Theatre was my favorite Roman Ruins along the whole VDLP. Super cool.

 

[alexwalker]

That Roman Theatre was my favorite Roman Ruins along the whole VDLP. Super cool.

Spectacular. Merida is well worth a rest day to explore everything. A city for retired Roman soldiers back in those days..

 

[islandwalker]

I’ll keep looking at the different options for 5-7 days somewhere in the south of Spain. Some good options have been suggested above.

I agree with @jungleboy. The Via Serrana has lots of villages close together so you can shorten stages as desired, there are plenty of stunning views, and the little train that runs through the valley gives you options if needed. Two other possibilities in Andalucia that are good for fall-winter-spring walks: the newly signposted Ruta del Argar that runs from Almeria around Cabo de Gata to Lorca (and then on to Santiago); and the Genal Valley route close to the Via Serrana. It's not a camino, but could provide 5-7 days of walking on a marvelous route that takes in 11 villages (journal here).