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Searching for the ‘secret’ Santiago

JennyH94

Pilgrim in progress
Camino(s) past & future
CF - sections and whole (2012-2019) and part VF (2017)
With thanks to our beautiful Camino friend and fellow Forum member @OzAnnie for thinking of the idea, here’s a thread in which a lot of us might be prepared to share details of our ‘secret’ Santiago - ie those gems in Santiago which aren’t widely known about.

I have two such secrets to share ...

Last year, when in Santiago, I caught up with my Camino friend @maggiec for an afternoon walk and a drink. Maggie took me to a couple of her secret discoveries and wow! They were fabulous!

The first is the bar garden/cafe at Hotel Costa Vella at Porta de Pena 17. The garden is beautifully shady on a hot day and it has a lovely rooftop view of the neighbourhood - gorgeous! Here’s a photo of the view:

9D821108-3A33-40F1-8E55-E0625235E1C8.jpeg

The second secret discovery is the fabulously funky laundromat on the Rua Hortas, just a few seconds walk straight on from the bottom of the steps as you leave the Square and head right down to the Pilgrim Office on Rua Carretas. The laundromat itself is beautifully appointed, spotless - and its walled garden is stunning. The stone walls are eclectically decorated with murals and tiles - tiles depicting John Lennon, Bob Marley and David Bowie are just three of the many tiles set into the walls. The garden is tranquil and feels very private. Here’s a photo of the garden and one of the laundromat itself:

724B7394-2219-4CF7-9C5D-D5D1AAA20DFD.jpeg

F5026A0C-B5B9-4786-85EF-D255684435C2.jpeg

Perhaps you have a secret discovery in Santiago which you’d be prepared to share ... we could ask Ivar to do a video visit to them on our behalf until we can get to them in person!

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny
 
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trecile

Camino Addict
Camino(s) past & future
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
With thanks to our beautiful Camino friend and fellow Forum member @OzAnnie for thinking of the idea, here’s a thread in which a lot of us might be prepared to share details of our ‘secret’ Santiago - ie those gems in Santiago which aren’t widely known about.

I have two such secrets to share ...

Last year, when in Santiago, I caught up with my Camino friend @maggiec for an afternoon walk and a drink. Maggie took me to a couple of her secret discoveries and wow! They were fabulous!

The first is the bar garden/cafe at Hotel Costa Vella at Porta de Pena 17. The garden is beautifully shady on a hot day and it has a lovely rooftop view of the neighbourhood - gorgeous! Here’s a photo of the view:

View attachment 87393

The second secret discovery is the fabulously funky laundromat on the Rua Hortas, just a few seconds walk straight on from the bottom of the steps as you leave the Square and head right down to the Pilgrim Office on Rua Carretas. The laundromat itself is beautifully appointed, spotless - and its walled garden is stunning. The stone walls are eclectically decorated with murals and tiles - tiles depicting John Lennon, Bob Marley and David Bowie are just three of the many tiles set into the walls. The garden is tranquil and feels very private. Here’s a photo of the garden and one of the laundromat itself:

View attachment 87395

View attachment 87396

Perhaps you have a secret discovery in Santiago which you’d be prepared to share ... we could ask Ivar to do a video visit to them on our behalf until we can get to them in person!

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny
What a great idea for a thread!
It looks like it would be a pleasure to wash clothes in that laundromat!
 

JennyH94

Pilgrim in progress
Camino(s) past & future
CF - sections and whole (2012-2019) and part VF (2017)
What a great idea for a thread!
It looks like it would be a pleasure to wash clothes in that laundromat!
It’s a top idea @trecile, isn’t it! Thanks again to @OzAnnie for thinking of it.

The laundromat is beautiful ! It’s a haven of peace (and cleanliness 😉) a stone’s throw away from the crowds in the Square.

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny
 

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
It's not much of a secret, but I can't let the chance go by to offer some kind words about the Tertulia. Keep going down Rua Hortas, cross the main drag at the bottom, and it's on your left. Breakfast there is heaven ...a wholewheat crossant and real tea, a pot of loose assam served with milk on the side, as it shoud be.

One thing I love is the little walking lane that links Rua Hortas with Rua San Clemente — Ruella de San Clemente. Steps away from the hubbub, but very peaceful.

And if you are missing your canine friend at home, there is a park below the pilgrims office where locals come with their dogs. It's fun to go there and watch the happy action.
 

JennyH94

Pilgrim in progress
Camino(s) past & future
CF - sections and whole (2012-2019) and part VF (2017)
It's not much of a secret, but I can't let the chance go by to offer some kind words about the Tertulia. Keep going down Rua Hortas, cross the main drag at the bottom, and it's on your left. Breakfast there is heaven ...a wholewheat crossant and real tea, a pot of loose assam served with milk on the side, as it shoud be.

One thing I love is the little walking lane that links Rua Hortas with Rua San Clemente — Ruella de San Clemente. Steps away from the hubbub, but very peaceful.

And if you are missing your canine friend at home, there is a park below the pilgrims office where locals come with their dogs. It's fun to go there and watch the happy action.
Yes, @VNwalking - the Tertulia! A favourite with Forum members - thank you! The lane and the park where we can meet the two and four legged locals are now on my list!
Cheers from Oz -
Jenny
 

JennyH94

Pilgrim in progress
Camino(s) past & future
CF - sections and whole (2012-2019) and part VF (2017)

Martin 888

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances 2019, Camino Frances 2020, Camino del Norte 2021
Great idea ! As a lover of good beer and feeling that I deserved one or two after trekking all the way solo from St Jean Pied de Port, I searched for a micro brewery in Santiago not thinking that I would come up with anything. I found the most wonderful spot which is a lovely bar that brews it’s own delicious beers and serves them in fine large wine glasses with snacks on the side of course. It’s in the newer part of town about 20 mins walk from the Cathedral but well worth the walk...it’s called Singulario !!
 

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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Good idea for a thread, @Jenny. I think many of us kind of go into post-partum-like deflation, when we arrive in Santiago, so adding some new things to the day is a good pick me upper!

The first is the bar garden/cafe at Hotel Costa Vella at Porta de Pena 17.
And if you stay in the Costa Vella, you can have your breakfast out there in the garden.

A few doors down from the Costa Vella is the Casa Felisa, which also has a very nice outdoor garden, and unlike the Costa Vella serves meals. Good salads!

I would recommend a little walk that Johnnie Walker introduced me to years ago. Go down past the Tertulia, follow the arrows to Finisterre, and when you cross over the little river, the arrows go left, but you go right. It is a lovely circular walk, almost impossible to believe you are still in a city. Apparently, you can walk as many as 10 kms if you follow that website’s directions. (and the website has some pictures so you can see how pretty the route is).

Another way to keep on walking a bit is to walk up to the Cidade da Cultura, a monstrosity in some eyes, but a pretty cool set of buildings to others (one looks like it would be great for skateboarders). I’ve attached a couple of pictures. When I was there, a museum in one of the buildings was open and had an exhibit on Brazilian Amazon tribes. There is also a library, and some other things in the complex, but my understaning is that they ran out of money after they finished the buildings and a lot of the space is not being used.

DBDC3C47-439B-40FA-B060-02899959AE3E.jpeg167AAF7F-983A-49F5-9257-F306C75F5CCA.jpeg


The walk up starts at the Ponte do Sar, which those who walk the Vdlp will cross on their way into town. It’s also very close to the romanesque church Santa María do Sar (which also has a very nice small museum, free for pilgrims, if my memory is correct). I’ve attached a map of the walk.


@Anniesantiago and others frequently rave about the Museo do Pobo Galego, which was on my list for 2020, but alas, I never made it!
 

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biarritzdon

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF11, CF12, CP13, CF14, CA15, S.Anton15, CF&CI15
Ditch Pig16, CF&CP17, CdN18, CM18, CF18, LePuy19
I was introduced to Bar O'46 by your countryman Andrew Australiano. It is on Calle del Franco near Taverno do Bispo, 46 is it's street number. It is a non-descript local bar serving wine from barrels in saucers. Just the opposite of its neighbor up the street.
 

trecile

Camino Addict
Camino(s) past & future
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
I was just checking out the website for Hotel Costa Vella, and they have a Guide to Santiago's Secret Spots

 

Theatregal

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
So far...
2012 ~ 2019
The 180 year old jewel box theatre, Teatro Principal on Rua Nova, 21. I had noticed this theatre before but had never seen it open. Wandering by one Sunday, the doors were open and a woman invited me in to see a free concert at noon with the Banda Municipal de Música de Santiago. Such a lovely experience! A wonderful concert in a gorgeous theatre.

Teatro Principal.jpg
 
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witsendwv

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
(2015)
C
With thanks to our beautiful Camino friend and fellow Forum member @OzAnnie for thinking of the idea, here’s a thread in which a lot of us might be prepared to share details of our ‘secret’ Santiago - ie those gems in Santiago which aren’t widely known about.

I have two such secrets to share ...

Last year, when in Santiago, I caught up with my Camino friend @maggiec for an afternoon walk and a drink. Maggie took me to a couple of her secret discoveries and wow! They were fabulous!

The first is the bar garden/cafe at Hotel Costa Vella at Porta de Pena 17. The garden is beautifully shady on a hot day and it has a lovely rooftop view of the neighbourhood - gorgeous! Here’s a photo of the view:

View attachment 87393

The second secret discovery is the fabulously funky laundromat on the Rua Hortas, just a few seconds walk straight on from the bottom of the steps as you leave the Square and head right down to the Pilgrim Office on Rua Carretas. The laundromat itself is beautifully appointed, spotless - and its walled garden is stunning. The stone walls are eclectically decorated with murals and tiles - tiles depicting John Lennon, Bob Marley and David Bowie are just three of the many tiles set into the walls. The garden is tranquil and feels very private. Here’s a photo of the garden and one of the laundromat itself:

View attachment 87395

View attachment 87396

Perhaps you have a secret discovery in Santiago which you’d be prepared to share ... we could ask Ivar to do a video visit to them on our behalf until we can get to them in person!

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny
Can you be more specific as to the location? I can't find it on google maps. We usually walk down Rua do Horreo to the Colada Express, but this is much more inviting.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
C

Can you be more specific as to the location? I can't find it on google maps. We usually walk down Rua do Horreo to the Colada Express, but this is much more inviting.

Google will give you good walking directions. I’ve attached a screen shot. Looking at the cathedral, go up the steps and through the arches on the left where the bagpipes and singers play. Walk up past SanMartín Pinario, and take a left on Troia, which changes its name several times, but it will take you right to the door of the Hotel.

The family that owns the Costa Vella also owns two other places on the same street, the Altair (standard comfortable modern) and the Moure (post-industrialist exposed pipes and heating ducts). They are all very nice.

And I just realized the coincidence that @OzAnnie suggested this thread — I once had drinks with @OzAnnie in the bar at Costa Vella! 😁 Looking forward to doing it again!
 

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witsendwv

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
(2015)
Google will give you good walking directions. I’ve attached a screen shot. Looking at the cathedral, go up the steps and through the arches on the left where the bagpipes and singers play. Walk up past SanMartín Pinario, and take a left on Troia, which changes its name several times, but it will take you right to the door of the Hotel.

The family that owns the Costa Vella also owns two other places on the same street, the Altair (standard comfortable modern) and the Moure (post-industrialist exposed pipes and heating ducts). They are all very nice.

And I just realized the coincidence that @OzAnnie suggested this thread — I once had drinks with @OzAnnie in the bar at Costa Vella! 😁 Looking forward to doing it again!
Peregrina, I was refering to the laundry location 🤣 but I just found both on a map. Both look like oases after a long walk which I still am optimistic about. Thanks.
 
Camino(s) past & future
First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
Another special Santiago spot? How about this one? The Collegiate Church of Sta Maria la Real del Sar. (Already referenced above, by Peregrina2000.)

Why this Romanesque masterpiece is not better known baffles me, with its mysterious leaning interior columns, its awesome buttresses, and all the indicia of Maestro Mateo's workshop! With its charming cloister, and excellent small museum! ... When I first visited SdeC waaaay back in 1977 (I was purely an academic tourist then, not a peregrino) I was almost more eager to see it than to see the Cathedral!

Photo 2 Oct 2012, 5:58 PM:

1605319937453.png
 
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Camino(s) past & future
CF -Sept.-Oct 2018 , CF Aug- Oct 2019
(CF or VdlP summer/fall 2020)
Hi Theatregal, West coast of Canada- Victoria? Vancouver? or any of the other beautiful BC jewels? I had to enlarge your member photo to see the whole picture. Is that the cattle barrier close to the France-Spain border on the way to Roncesvalles?
The carved stone face looks like the guy was in a fist fight. :)
I just finished reading a very interesting historical novel about the origins of the camino.. "The First Pilgrim" by Terence Callery, one of the forum's members. Really makes you appreciate all the fantastic photo ops we have on our "luxury" walks, and I see you took a ton of great pics. I live in rainy Seattle, and can't wait to get back for my third camino.
 

trecile

Camino Addict
Camino(s) past & future
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
Another secret Santiago spot? How about this one? (Already referenced indirectly in this thread by Peregrina2000.)

Why this Romanesque masterpiece is not better known baffles me, with its mysterious leaning interior columns, its awesome buttresses, and all the indicia of Maestro Mateo's workshop! With its charming cloister, and excellent small museum! ... When I first visited SdeC waaaay back in 1977 (I was purely an academic tourist then, not a peregrino) I was almost more eager to see it than to see the Cathedral!

Photo 2 Oct 2012, 5:58 PM:

View attachment 87476
I don't think that this thread is meant to keep these places secret - please tell where this is!
 

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
I can vouch for the Altair is being a lovely place, even though it doesn't have the garden that the Costa Vella does. I stayed there with a friend in 2015, and did not go back until last year, but the front desk staff remembered me — which was quite a wonderful surprise.

After reading this article, I always look for markings when I'm in Santiago.
I had noticed these and now know what they mean! Thank you @Theatregal !

I was just checking out the website for Hotel Costa Vella, and they have a Guide to Santiago's Secret Spots
This website has some wonderful treasures, gracias! A magic bench, a mystery street, a labyrinth, and a library...all new to me and places to seek out next time I'm in Santiago. (That labyrinth of camellias would be quite something in the spring.)
 

Theatregal

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
So far...
2012 ~ 2019
Secrets in plain site. Two interesting La Voz articles from earlier threads originally posted by @Peter Fransiscus

One about public game boards from the 17th and 18th century. I've found a couple near San Martín Pinario and one on an Obradoiro bench.

www.lavozdegalicia.es/noticia/santiago/santiago/2018/02/22/160-tableros-juego-escondidos-compostela-sobreviven-paso-tiempo/0003_201802S22C19911.htm

And an article about the Guardians of Santiago.

 
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Camino(s) past & future
First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
I don't think that this thread is meant to keep these places secret - please tell where this is!
20 minutes easy walk SE from the Plaza Obradoiro, and not all that far from the Albergue Seminario Menor. Edge of the casco viejo, just off the Brierley town plan.... If you're a church geek like me, its memorable! And it has wonderfully retained its sense of being a church, not a curiosity.

 
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Camino(s) past & future
this will be my first. Norte September 2018.
With thanks to our beautiful Camino friend and fellow Forum member @OzAnnie for thinking of the idea, here’s a thread in which a lot of us might be prepared to share details of our ‘secret’ Santiago - ie those gems in Santiago which aren’t widely known about.

I have two such secrets to share ...

Last year, when in Santiago, I caught up with my Camino friend @maggiec for an afternoon walk and a drink. Maggie took me to a couple of her secret discoveries and wow! They were fabulous!

The first is the bar garden/cafe at Hotel Costa Vella at Porta de Pena 17. The garden is beautifully shady on a hot day and it has a lovely rooftop view of the neighbourhood - gorgeous! Here’s a photo of the view:

View attachment 87393

The second secret discovery is the fabulously funky laundromat on the Rua Hortas, just a few seconds walk straight on from the bottom of the steps as you leave the Square and head right down to the Pilgrim Office on Rua Carretas. The laundromat itself is beautifully appointed, spotless - and its walled garden is stunning. The stone walls are eclectically decorated with murals and tiles - tiles depicting John Lennon, Bob Marley and David Bowie are just three of the many tiles set into the walls. The garden is tranquil and feels very private. Here’s a photo of the garden and one of the laundromat itself:

View attachment 87395

View attachment 87396

Perhaps you have a secret discovery in Santiago which you’d be prepared to share ... we could ask Ivar to do a video visit to them on our behalf until we can get to them in person!

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny
Nicest laundromat I have ever seen!!
 

MichelleElynHogan

Veteran Member
Most here know that both of my attempts on the Camino Frances were cut very short by leg damage. In both cases, after the injury, I made my way by tren o autobus, to Santiago. The first time, upon arrival in the wee hours of the morning, I asked a cabby to take me to the closest hotel. It was the Hotel Capital de Galicia.


They took care of me. They helped me with reservations home and where best to eat closeby. And, though minimum rate is 54 euro now, they billed me 30 euro per night. This place, in each room I was staying in, had walls of pink marble. Very posh. And, when I get back, whenever that will be, there is really only one place to stay, for me.
 

GailGwyn

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
part Camino Frances (2013), Part Camino Norte (2014)Camino Frances (2019)Camino Portuguese (2020)
With thanks to our beautiful Camino friend and fellow Forum member @OzAnnie for thinking of the idea, here’s a thread in which a lot of us might be prepared to share details of our ‘secret’ Santiago - ie those gems in Santiago which aren’t widely known about.

I have two such secrets to share ...

Last year, when in Santiago, I caught up with my Camino friend @maggiec for an afternoon walk and a drink. Maggie took me to a couple of her secret discoveries and wow! They were fabulous!

The first is the bar garden/cafe at Hotel Costa Vella at Porta de Pena 17. The garden is beautifully shady on a hot day and it has a lovely rooftop view of the neighbourhood - gorgeous! Here’s a photo of the view:

View attachment 87393

The second secret discovery is the fabulously funky laundromat on the Rua Hortas, just a few seconds walk straight on from the bottom of the steps as you leave the Square and head right down to the Pilgrim Office on Rua Carretas. The laundromat itself is beautifully appointed, spotless - and its walled garden is stunning. The stone walls are eclectically decorated with murals and tiles - tiles depicting John Lennon, Bob Marley and David Bowie are just three of the many tiles set into the walls. The garden is tranquil and feels very private. Here’s a photo of the garden and one of the laundromat itself:

View attachment 87395

View attachment 87396

Perhaps you have a secret discovery in Santiago which you’d be prepared to share ... we could ask Ivar to do a video visit to them on our behalf until we can get to them in person!

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny
After completing our Camino Ingles in September, we spent time both in the launderette and the garden of Costa Vella. Both highly recommend!
 

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natefaith

Moderator
Staff member
Camino(s) past & future
Sarria-Santiago (2009)
León-Ponferrada (2014)
Camino Inglés (2017)
Fun thread!

This tiny purple store, As Monxas, has our favorite tarta de Santiago. The tartas are all-natural, gluten-free, and delicious. As Monxas is located on Xelmirez, just up from the Cathedral.

IMG_1164 As Monxas.jpg

And if you walk out of town, backwards on the Camino Francés, you'll eventually find Rua Roma and its beautiful park, Parque Carlomagno. We love the views from the overlook there, especially at sunset:

IMG_6273.jpeg
(The City of Culture in the distance)

IMG_6274.jpeg

IMG_6275.jpeg
 

Theatregal

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
So far...
2012 ~ 2019
The beautiful little museum Casa de la Troya is a very interesting place to visit. The day I was there, a woman led a fascinating guided tour of the house with it's connections to the novel "La Casa de la Troya" by Alejandro Pérez Lugin; late 19th / early 20th century student life in the city and the beginnings and traditions of the musical group TUNA who still play the streets of Santiago (recognized by their ribboned capes).

 

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