September challenges

[Hetty]

When my husband and I planned our Camino many months ago, we had no way of knowing how busy the month of September would be. It was with great reluctance that we ended our Camino in Castrojeriz after walking there from Saint Jean de Pied Port beginning on September 5.
The first hint of what was to come was in Zubiri on day three where the albergues were all full and we witnessed two exhausted men elbowing each other out of the way in the hopes of finding a room at a private pension at the edge of town. Needless to say, all accommodations were full. They, and many others, slept on the floor of the city hall that night.
We did not rush as we walked, wanting to savour the beauty of the landscape. We rested when weary and took time to talk with people along the way. As a result, we often arrived in towns a bit later in the afternoon to find everything completely booked.
We did our best to book ahead but eventually this became too challenging. We enjoyed the walking, the beauty of northern Spain and the feeling of accomplishment in having walked about 400 km. We have no regrets but feel that it is important to share the realities of the downside of the apparent increased popularity of the Camino experience among people around the world.

 

[rsmith0000]

Hello, Hetty. I just got back from walking the 300 kilometers from Leon-Santiago, with my daughter. Not only was the path more crowded than what I experienced in the spring of 2013, but it was a different crowd. Fewer solo travelers and more big groups, especially American and French walkers with daypacks and vans to ferry them back and forth, when they tired. Also, a large number of mountain bikers, which made some narrow, steep sections rather dangerous. Everyone's experience is different, but I will not walk in September again. The countryside was spectacular -- with vineyards, orchards and farms overflowing with fruit and vegetables -- but I preferred the crowd that was out last year, during Holy Week and the following weeks. Less competitive, more religious and generally friendlier. It sounds like we experienced something similar this year and it's a pity.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

It is common advice to "walk your own camino." While that is good advice, it implies that there is a degree of control over events. I personally have found that frustration comes from plans and expectations that are not met. No one changes the camino; it changes each of us. If beds are full by 3 p.m., stop at 2:30 p.m.! If groups are bothersome, make stops where they don't. If albergues prevent sleeping, stay in hostales. If all these little accommodations to reality make the experience unpleasant, perhaps the Camino is not what one really wants! There was one thread where the pilgrim complained that the Camino was easy and not the Appalachian Trail. It was clear that he should have been on the Appalachian Trail!!! It will never be what anyone wants it to be; it will only be what it is. It does not care if you are there or elsewhere.

 

[ManyMiles2Go]

So sorry to hear that you had to cut your Camino short. We had the same problem last year in Zubiri (we walked mid-August to mid-September, 2013). When we got to Zubiri, it was all booked up. We also saw a LOT of daypackers during that day. We were not going to let that get us down. We decided, "If you can't beat 'em, join 'em!" So we got a taxi to Pamplona and booked a hotel room. Next day, we grabbed a daypack, got a taxi back to Zubiri, and walked into Pamplona and stayed in the same hotel room a second night! Then we just got off the Brierly guide stops and had no problems with crowds the rest of the trip. It got a little busy last couple of days into Santiago, but I think that would be the case any spring/summer/fall time of year. Hope you will be able to get back and finish your Camino some day!!

 

[fraluchi]

[...] ... it implies that there is a degree of control over events. I personally have found that frustration comes from plans and expectations that are not met. [...]

One has to be adventurous, versatile, flexible, etc. Planning (as well as commenting) from behind a laptop is nowhere comparable to the total change in "living conditions" which a walk such as any of the Caminos appears so easy by publications and dreams. It's tough to be a pilgrim!

 

[musicman]

It is common advice to "walk your own camino." While that is good advice, it implies that there is a degree of control over events. I personally have found that frustration comes from plans and expectations that are not met. No one changes the camino; it changes each of us. If beds are full by 3 p.m., stop at 2:30 p.m.! If groups are bothersome, make stops where they don't. If albergues prevent sleeping, stay in hostales. If all these little accommodations to reality make the experience unpleasant, perhaps the Camino is not what one really wants! There was one thread where the pilgrim complained that the Camino was easy and not the Appalachian Trail. It was clear that he should have been on the Appalachian Trail!!! It will never be what anyone wants it to be; it will only be what it is. It does not care if you are there or elsewhere.

These comments do not address the real problem, as stated by Hetty - this lady is reporting "actuality". - fatuous advice like arriving half an hour earlier, miss the point she is making.
More useful to suggest taking an alternative Caminho in September.
It is not unrealistic to expect a bed at the end of a long day' s walk!

It is common advice to "walk your own camino." While that is good advice, it implies that there is a degree of control over events. I personally have found that frustration comes from plans and expectations that are not met. No one changes the camino; it changes each of us. If beds are full by 3 p.m., stop at 2:30 p.m.! If groups are bothersome, make stops where they don't. If albergues prevent sleeping, stay in hostales. If all these little accommodations to reality make the experience unpleasant, perhaps the Camino is not what one really wants! There was one thread where the pilgrim complained that the Camino was easy and not the Appalachian Trail. It was clear that he should have been on the Appalachian Trail!!! It will never be what anyone wants it to be; it will only be what it is. It does not care if you are there or elsewhere.

 

[Hetty]

T

These comments do not address the real problem, as stated by Hetty - this lady is reporting "actuality". - fatuous advice like arriving half an hour earlier, miss the point she is making.
More useful to suggest taking an alternative Caminho in September.
It is not unrealistic to expect a bed at the end of a long day' s walk!

Thank you musicman. I appreciate the fact that you understood and acknowledged the point I was trying to make. It is troubling to me when the reality of challenges faced on the Camino can become somewhat romanticized or dismissed.

 

[Tincatinker]

Sorry Musicman but I have to disagree with you. It is unrealistic to expect a bed at the end of the day. To hope for one is reasonable.

The Caminos, and particularly the Frances, are seeing more and more pilgrims every year. The infrastructure will follow demand but the drag curve will be a long one. September is obviously becoming a high traffic month as pilgrims seek to avoid the mayhem of July and August. The challenges of securing a bed in high traffic times are well publicised here and on every other Camino related site I have accessed in the last few months.

Falcon's comments are not, to me, either fatuous or unhelpful. The Camino is the Camino, it does not seek to meet our needs. It merely, and wholly, is. Hetty's report adds to our knowledge of the challenges.

 

[dougfitz]

@musicman - I am with @Tincatinker on this, although if you are prepared to pay either for a better class of accommodation or for a taxi to somewhere where there is a bed available, all things are possible.

 

[Luminaria]

So sorry to hear that you had to cut your Camino short. We had the same problem last year in Zubiri (we walked mid-August to mid-September, 2013). When we got to Zubiri, it was all booked up. We also saw a LOT of daypackers during that day. We were not going to let that get us down. We decided, "If you can't beat 'em, join 'em!" So we got a taxi to Pamplona and booked a hotel room. Next day, we grabbed a daypack, got a taxi back to Zubiri, and walked into Pamplona and stayed in the same hotel room a second night! Then we just got off the Brierly guide stops and had no problems with crowds the rest of the trip. It got a little busy last couple of days into Santiago, but I think that would be the case any spring/summer/fall time of year. Hope you will be able to get back and finish your Camino some day!!

I love your spirit and the sense of Flow you brought to your Camino.

 

[jennie]

Sorry Musicman but I have to disagree with you. It is unrealistic to expect a bed at the end of the day. To hope for one is reasonable.

The Caminos, and particularly the Frances, are seeing more and more pilgrims every year. The infrastructure will follow demand but the drag curve will be a long one. September is obviously becoming a high traffic month as pilgrims seek to avoid the mayhem of July and August. The challenges of securing a bed in high traffic times are well publicised here and on every other Camino related site I have accessed in the last few months.

Falcon's comments are not, to me, either fatuous or unhelpful. The Camino is the Camino, it does not seek to meet our needs. It merely, and wholly, is. Hetty's report adds to our knowledge of the challenges.

just back from santiago had travelled from san jean, had an amazing time,, we did walk and carry our bags and tried not to race for beds we did end up on mattresses in zubiri but were so very grateful to get them..it does seem to get harder to get beds with more and more larger groups booking ahead but in our case i can say the albergues never let us down,,had a wonderful time !

 

[LesBrass]

Sorry to hear about our camino. I'm just back too... I saw folks turned away a couple of times but they did find beds elsewhere. I was travelling alone but ended up travelling with a few others in a little group. Early on we opted to avoid the Briely stages... not only did this mean we never rushed for a bed it also meant for a good deal of time we travelled in relative peace. We were often the slowest group... stopped often and just enjoyed the walk. We rejoined the stages at Cruz de Ferro. Astorga and the last 2 days and we noticed a huge difference... If you feel a little hassled by the crowds just stop before or after the guides and you'll find it makes a big difference.

 

[Dave2525]

I was in Zubiri around the same time frame as Hetty and it was pretty full. The muni offered us floor space in the gym for 2 euros which we gladly accepted. We then raided the recycling bins and used the cardboard as our mattresses for the night. Brought 5 of us together as a group and makes for a good Camino story as well.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

It is common advice to "walk your own camino." While that is good advice, it implies that there is a degree of control over events. I personally have found that frustration comes from plans and expectations that are not met. No one changes the camino; it changes each of us. If beds are full by 3 p.m., stop at 2:30 p.m.! If groups are bothersome, make stops where they don't. If albergues prevent sleeping, stay in hostales. If all these little accommodations to reality make the experience unpleasant, perhaps the Camino is not what one really wants! There was one thread where the pilgrim complained that the Camino was easy and not the Appalachian Trail. It was clear that he should have been on the Appalachian Trail!!! It will never be what anyone wants it to be; it will only be what it is. It does not care if you are there or elsewhere.

Falcon all that is lovely, but not in line with people's realities nowadays. You may live an area where inexpensive RyanAir flight are available, I do not know, but some people, like me, come from far away. For them, stopping every 3hours rather than 6, is not in the plans.

Yet the Camino belongs to all of us. The reality is, unfortunatly, that The Camino will change, unless something else changes.

People boast about being "pilgrims" and not "tourigirnos". What is the difference? Can't being a tourigrino "convert" us to being a "Pregrino"? Who is to juge? But apparently things are changing. I may wish the Martin Sheen would never have happened, and opend 'My Camino to the rif raf', but they are here. And who am I to say they are "rif-raf"?

So what will make it a pilgrimage? Having 90 days to walk? Lovely for those 'indépendants de fortune" as we say in French? A Camino "police" that allows us to only carry 5 pounds on our backs? Who stops day walkers with an organized group? Who is to say you have not seen a third of the light of of them has seen?

Please think about those for whom this is an opportunity of a lifetime, a lifelong dream, people who may have saved forever, people who cannot return and for whom Santiago actually means more than a boundary stone.

Ironically, being on a Camino Forum, I wonder if the solution is to stop bragging about the Camino, posting non-stop about it, and just walking. Make it a secret, so it can go back to what it was.

Oh, but wait: no fancy hot water showers, no Menu del Peregrino, no lovely mattress. Hey (I'm Canadian!) no comfy mattresses, lovely food, hot showers.
And please walk it barefoot.

Who are we to judge the sacrifice being made: time, shoes, the price of flight from the other end of the world vs a flight costing less than a mean at Mc Donalds'?

 

[Felipe]

Well, today it is possible to googlemap our way for alternatives, if we are too bothered by crowds.
I just did it, as an exercise, and came with a route from Zubiri to Vitoria (connection with Camino Vasco), Miranda del Ebro, Obarenes-San Zadornil national park, Aguilar de Campos, Fuente Carrionas national park, La Robla (to Salvador), Fonsagrada, Lugo (Primitivo) and Compostela.
And nowadays with internet, it is not too difficult to look for hostals. Or in the good weather seasons (where the problem apparently is), camping somewhere off the beaten track. There are lots of isolated villages that would be very happy to receive some walkers.
This is what pilgrims did in old times when the usual road was difficult for some reason: look for options. There is not a mandatory way to Compostela.

 

[Oct2012Pilgrim]

I was on the Camino Frances during all of September. Like Falcon said, I always found a bed. Sometimes you've gotta stop a little earlier or make a reservation. I wouldn't blame the Camino.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I wouldn't blame the Camino.

If we did blame it, would it know and be contrite?

Que sera, sera.

 

[Felice]

We were on the Camino all September, starting at SJPP on Sept 2. One thing that did cause severe problems this year was the closure of the Larrasonana albergue from (I think) Sept 5 - 8th. That took 60 beds out of the system in an area that is only moderately served with accommodation. Also there was the cycling event in Pamplona around the same time, so no accommodation available there, which had forced people to move on faster than they had intended. The result was that pilgrims were much more bunched together, rather than more evenly spread, as would normally be found, resulting in a shortage of accommodation in key places. Apparently, there was another time later when there was a bed shortage on the mesta so I was really glad to know that lots of people had bused forward from Burgos to Leon.

We walked with people who had spent a night on the floor at Los Arcos, as well as others at Najera and it was not a nice experience. They always booked ahead after that, as they were slow walkers who liked to arrive around 5pm.

We were fortunate in never having problems finding a bed. But then we got up early (what else to do if you are wide awake having been woken by the 5am rustle of plastic bags?) and generally stopped around 2.30. Sometimes we stopped in Brierly stage towns, other times in little villages. Later, from Sarria and onwards, we found plentiful accommodation and that the albergues were never more than a third full. (Bit of a contrast with August!!)

Usually, I detest walking a 'popular' route but seeing the trade that pilgrims brought to the albergues, cafes and shops in remote villages, I decided that on balance, a busy camino was good for these areas. Spaniards are enterprising if the authorities allow them to be - being able to get an evening meal at 7.30 is amazing! - and some have responded to pilgrims' likes and desires and have done well as a result. New hostels will be opened, as has happened at Sarria; I just hope that they open quickly enough to stop the Camino frances from getting a terrible reputation and falling out of favour.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola Hetty - and despite some of the negative replies - thanks for bringing this issue to light. Although I suspect its an issue that is going to continue, ie not go away. It may be beneficial to those who operate albergues or casa rural and as anyone who has seen some of these small villages they need all the Euros that the pilgrims can afford.

Yes with many students from Spain limited to walking in August (due to school/university vacations) others will either start immediately after Easter/Holy week or in early September. I have read more than a few books on walking the Camino and most of these eventually "broke the spell" of the Brierley Stages. Those that can will do the taxi thing, others bored with walking through kilometres of industrial centres (say on the outskirts of Leon) catch a bus. So unless the pilgrim really is a strict budget there are alternatives.
Of course those on bikes have a slightly greater advantage - the extra 3 or 4 km can be covered in 20 or 30 minutes - as long as they are respectful to the walkers.
So to conclude - the Brierley Guidebook is simple that - a guide. The world of the Camino is unlikely to end if you make some other arrangements. Buen Camino

 

[Deleted member 3000]

seeing the trade that pilgrims brought to the albergues, cafes and shops in remote villages, I decided that on balance, a busy camino was good for these areas

The townhouse ghost town at the golf course before Santo Domingo de la Calzada is the result of trickle down solutions for economic recovery in Spain (and the hundreds of cranes in Sarria that hovered for years over unfinished projects). The new bars and albergues along the Camino are the result of pilgrim spending. Which has been better for Spain?

 

[OTH86]

One of the best things about walking the Camino is that in a relatively short space of time one can learn how to think outside the box! ManyMiles2Go, what a great idea on how to make life (and the Camino) work for you!!
I've been walking the Camino since 5 Sept from SJPP, and have found a few things to be irritated with - but that's MY problem to resolve - and I have about two weeks left to try and resolve those issues that have been irritating me. I DO hope that I will have resolved them by the time I get to Santiago. I worked on it most of my walking day today, and will continue tomorrow, and the next day. I will be SO filled with gratitude upon arrival in Santiago if I am able to overcome even SOME of these irritations!
Buen Camino all!
Terry

 

[Oct2012Pilgrim]

Ironically, being on a Camino Forum, I wonder if the solution is to stop bragging about the Camino, posting non-stop about it, and just walking. Make it a secret, so it can go back to what it was.

Really?

 

[Tincatinker]

Ironically, being on a Camino Forum, I wonder if the solution is to stop bragging about the Camino, posting non-stop about it, and just walking. Make it a secret, so it can go back to what it was.

The Genie is out of the bottle. The Camino(s) are a deeply moving spiritual journey / European adventure trail / great sight-seeing trip / cheap holiday. And the Internet is un-forgiving - every post will be up (out / in ) there forever.

The challenges of the journey may change and evolve but at least there are still challenges. Even if said challenges are most often to our comfort-zones rather than our continuing physical existence. There are those who need the comfort of assured beds, meals, a camino family and a Facebook upload of a good time well had. And there are those who wish to walk in silent contemplation of their sins, of their joys and of their commitment as they offer up their pilgrimage and for whom a bed is a gift at the end of their day. And their is every sort of sinner, spinner and lost, lost child on that journey in-between. For all it is their personal expectations that will provide the greatest challenge.

For those with ways and means the journey can be as comfortable now as it was in the C12; for those with the inclination it can be as spiritual as it ever was. Those who look to the camino to provide that that it never will will walk away disappointed.

 

[fortview]

The Genie is out of the bottle. The Camino(s) are a deeply moving spiritual journey / European adventure trail / great sight-seeing trip / cheap holiday. And the Internet is un-forgiving - every post will be up (out / in ) there forever.

The challenges of the journey may change and evolve but at least there are still challenges. Even if said challenges are most often to our comfort-zones rather than our continuing physical existence. There are those who need the comfort of assured beds, meals, a camino family and a Facebook upload of a good time well had. And there are those who wish to walk in silent contemplation of their sins, of their joys and of their commitment as they offer up their pilgrimage and for whom a bed is a gift at the end of their day. And their is every sort of sinner, spinner and lost, lost child on that journey in-between. For all it is their personal expectations that will provide the greatest challenge.

For those with ways and means the journey can be as comfortable now as it was in the C12; for those with the inclination it can be as spiritual as it ever was. Those who look to the camino to provide that that it never will will walk away disappointed.

Very, very well said

 

[kiwiDavid]

Thank you for your post Hetty - I had heard from friends that the Camino was quite crowded now and have looked for posts indicating what it's like at various times and places.
Food for thought.kiwiDavid

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I had heard from friends that the Camino was quite crowded now and have looked for posts indicating what it's like at various times and places.

That is a bit difficult! There are monthly statistics on departures from SJPdP and arrivals in Santiago. You must interpolate for guidance in between. Sarria to Santiago is always the busiest segment with arrivals clustering on Friday and Saturday, implying Saturday and Sunday departures from Sarria. January has the fewest departures from everywhere. Crowding is always reported in July and August. September is becoming busier as pilgrims avoid July and August.

Attached is information on the 2013 departures from SJPdP. Early next year there will be an update for 2014; it is likely to be a repeat of 2013 with a bit of growth.

 

[clearskiescamino]

I started out a day before you Hetty, but I was one of the very few lucky ones who found a bunk in Zubiri.
I have always walked in early May but wanted to give September a go as May was beginning to get busy. I'm quite happy to walk in May from now on
September was stressful at times.

 

[Felice]

The Camino Frances is only going to be busier next year, I suspect. All those people, who, like me, had a wonderful camino experience, have gone home and inspired someone else to make the journey. Then there's the new German film coming out next year which will prompt more people still to give it a try. Pilgrim numbers starting from SJPP and Roncesvalles in Sept will be up, and the 'peak season' will extend into October. This will mean that not every pilgrim will find a bed at the end of the day.

Maybe this needs to be said a little louder. Last year when I was researching and planning, I wondered about taking a mat. The general gist of the thread here was that only about a third of people carried one and that it was the most frequent object in the 'lost and found' box. My experience this Sept was that hardly anyone had a mat and I never saw one in a box (not that I looked hard). This year's question is 'do I really need a sleeping bag or will a liner be sufficient?' to which the reply is that there are usually blankets/it's warm. But if people start only bringing liners, how long before there are insufficient blankets in the mountains?

This Sept there were only a relatively few unfortunate ones who had to sleep on the floor without a mat at Los Arcos, or with just cardboard at Najera. If numbers increase faster than new accommodation is created, that proportion will grow. Maybe in a year or so's time it might be worth carrying a mat again.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

If you total the beds in this one segment, I think you will find that there is plenty of space for the September and October crowds (about 500 pilgrims per day on the Camino Frances arriving in Santiago in October after starting in September). A similar analysis of other segments will show lots of beds if pilgrim do not cluster in the major stopping points.

Arzúa (1)
Albergue de la Xunta de Arzúa C. Cima do Lugar, 6 56 plazas 6 euros | Cocina de uso libre (sin utensilios)
Albergue Da Fonte C. Carmen, 18 20 plazas 12 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue Don Quijote C. Lugo, 130 1º (en la entrada) 48 plazas 10 euros | Bar-restaurante
Albergue Vía Lactea C. José Neira Vilas, 26 60 plazas 10-12 euros | Cocina de uso libre / Cenas
Albergue Ultreia C. de Lugo, 126 (en la entrada) 39 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre / Bar-restaurante
Albergue Santiago Apóstol C. Lugo, 107 72 plazas 10-12 euros | Cocina de uso libre / Bar-restaurante
Albergue Los Caminantes C. de Santiago, 14 28 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue A Conda C. Calexa, 92 18 plazas 10 euros | Sin cocina
Albergue de Selmo C. Lugo, 133 50 plazas 10 euros | Nevera, microondas y horno

Os Penedos (2)
Albergue Camiño das Ocas Bebedeiro, s/n (ver observaciones) 30 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre / Bar
Salceda (3)
Albergue Pousada de Salceda N-574, km 75 8 plazas 10 euros | Bar-restaurante Booking
Albergue de Boni Lugar de Salceda, 22 (a pie de camino) 20 plazas 10 euros | Solo microonas y frigorífico

A Brea (4)
Pensión The Way: A Brea, 36 | A 150 m del camino | 7 hab. | 12-15 € per. (hab. compartida) / 25 € ind. / 35-45 € dob / 60 € cuad. | Reserva: 981-50-29-90 / Booking

Santa Irene (5)
Albergue de la Xunta de Santa Irene (a pie de camino, junto a la carretera)
(cerrado por reformas)
Albergue Santa Irene (en la aldea) 15 plazas 13 euros | Cenas
Astrar (6)
Albergue Rural Astrar Astrar, 18 (ver Observaciones) 24 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Pedrouzo (7)
Albergue de la Xunta de Pedrouzo (junto a la carretera) 120 plazas 6 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue Porta de Santiago Avda. de Lugo, 11 60 plazas 10 euros | Solo microonas
Albergue Edreira Rua da Fonte, 19 52 plazas 10 euros | Solo microonas
Albergue O Burgo Avda. de Lugo, 47 16 plazas 10 euros | Sin cocina
Albergue Otero C. Forcarei, 2 36 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue Cruceiro de Pedrouzo Avda. de la Iglesia 7 94 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Hostel Rem Avda. de la Iglesia, 7 40 plazas 10 euros | Cafetería

 

[Felice]

If you total the beds in this one segment, I think you will find that there is plenty of space for the September and October crowds (about 500 pilgrims per day on the Camino Frances arriving in Santiago in October after starting in September). A similar analysis of other segments will show lots of beds if pilgrim do not cluster in the major stopping points.

Arzúa (1)
Albergue de la Xunta de Arzúa C. Cima do Lugar, 6 56 plazas 6 euros | Cocina de uso libre (sin utensilios)
Albergue Da Fonte C. Carmen, 18 20 plazas 12 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue Don Quijote C. Lugo, 130 1º (en la entrada) 48 plazas 10 euros | Bar-restaurante
Albergue Vía Lactea C. José Neira Vilas, 26 60 plazas 10-12 euros | Cocina de uso libre / Cenas
Albergue Ultreia C. de Lugo, 126 (en la entrada) 39 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre / Bar-restaurante
Albergue Santiago Apóstol C. Lugo, 107 72 plazas 10-12 euros | Cocina de uso libre / Bar-restaurante
Albergue Los Caminantes C. de Santiago, 14 28 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue A Conda C. Calexa, 92 18 plazas 10 euros | Sin cocina
Albergue de Selmo C. Lugo, 133 50 plazas 10 euros | Nevera, microondas y horno

Os Penedos (2)
Albergue Camiño das Ocas Bebedeiro, s/n (ver observaciones) 30 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre / Bar
Salceda (3)
Albergue Pousada de Salceda N-574, km 75 8 plazas 10 euros | Bar-restaurante Booking
Albergue de Boni Lugar de Salceda, 22 (a pie de camino) 20 plazas 10 euros | Solo microonas y frigorífico

A Brea (4)
Pensión The Way: A Brea, 36 | A 150 m del camino | 7 hab. | 12-15 € per. (hab. compartida) / 25 € ind. / 35-45 € dob / 60 € cuad. | Reserva: 981-50-29-90 / Booking

Santa Irene (5)
Albergue de la Xunta de Santa Irene (a pie de camino, junto a la carretera)
(cerrado por reformas)
Albergue Santa Irene (en la aldea) 15 plazas 13 euros | Cenas
Astrar (6)
Albergue Rural Astrar Astrar, 18 (ver Observaciones) 24 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Pedrouzo (7)
Albergue de la Xunta de Pedrouzo (junto a la carretera) 120 plazas 6 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue Porta de Santiago Avda. de Lugo, 11 60 plazas 10 euros | Solo microonas
Albergue Edreira Rua da Fonte, 19 52 plazas 10 euros | Solo microonas
Albergue O Burgo Avda. de Lugo, 47 16 plazas 10 euros | Sin cocina
Albergue Otero C. Forcarei, 2 36 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue Cruceiro de Pedrouzo Avda. de la Iglesia 7 94 plazas 10 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Hostel Rem Avda. de la Iglesia, 7 40 plazas 10 euros | Cafetería

Absolutely. That was my experience this Sept from Sarria onwards. Everywhere I stayed, the albergue was less than half full. There were a lot of new places around. However, I gather they are all needed, and more, in August.
It's the sections earlier on where I heard about problems in Sept.

Coming out of Estella, it's 9.6km to the first albegues at Villamayor de Monjardin, where there are about 50 beds (according to my copy of Brierley). Then it is 11.5km to the next albergue at Los Arcos, where there are about 175 beds. Here people were sleeping on the concrete floor of a swimming pool./
After that it is 8km to Sansol and Torres del Rio, where there are about 120 beds.
Next place with beds is Viana, after 10.6km, where there are 70 albergue beds and other hostal accommodation,
So that makes a stretch of over 40km where there are about 420 beds in albergues.

After Logrono it was the same -
Nearly 13km to Navarette with it's 66 beds.
Then 7.6km to Ventosa (42 beds)
and 10.4km to Najera (174 beds) which is where we came across people clutching their sheets of cardboard, in preparation for a night on the floor.
Next stop is nearly 6 km off at Azofra, where there are about 90 beds.
So around 375 beds over a 37km stretch.

Knowing that there were 450 people leaving Roncesvalles some mornings in Sept, and more were joining at Pamplona, it is not surprising that there was a bed shortage there this year. Those with money can take a taxi or stay in a hostal or hotel (though these are few in these stretches), others must sleep on the floor, when a mat will repay all the effort of being carried...

Just something to be aware about.

 

[jennie]

I started out a day before you Hetty, but I was one of the very few lucky ones who found a bunk in Zubiri.
I have always walked in early May but wanted to give September a go as May was beginning to get busy. I'm quite happy to walk in May from now on
September was stressful at times.

hi , good to hear you got a bed in zubiri but can say although it makes a great[horror] story ending up on a mattress in a sports hall , we had a great night sleep as were ONLY about 25 other people in the hall,, so despite lots of moans n groans getting down to our mattresses we were very happy,

 

[dougfitz]

hi , good to hear you got a bed in zubiri but can say although it makes a great[horror] story ending up on a mattress in a sports hall , we had a great night sleep as were ONLY about 25 other people in the hall,, so despite lots of moans n groans getting down to our mattresses we were very happy,

I was the first into the gym/sports hall when I walked in 2010 - it was just before Easter, and the CF was crowded, but it set the scene for accepting what the camino offered rather than expecting it to offer what I might have wanted.

 

[jennie]

It is common advice to "walk your own camino." While that is good advice, it implies that there is a degree of control over events. I personally have found that frustration comes from plans and expectations that are not met. No one changes the camino; it changes each of us. If beds are full by 3 p.m., stop at 2:30 p.m.! If groups are bothersome, make stops where they don't. If albergues prevent sleeping, stay in hostales. If all these little accommodations to reality make the experience unpleasant, perhaps the Camino is not what one really wants! There was one thread where the pilgrim complained that the Camino was easy and not the Appalachian Trail. It was clear that he should have been on the Appalachian Trail!!! It will never be what anyone wants it to be; it will only be what it is. It does not care if you are there or elsewhere.

home a week now and cant agree more,my sis and i walked with our bags from san jean and each day it was we HOPE to stop in this town or that town but hey if that does not work then we will find another option,,for us that was the joy in the camino not being sure when or where you may sleep .. the crowds that booked ahead did i must admit bother us as they could take all the time and still be sure of a bed.but saying that we took our time and still found abed for the night i THOUGHT that was the spirit of the camino ???

 

[jennie]

I was the first into the gym/sports hall when I walked in 2010 - it was just before Easter, and the CF was crowded, but it set the scene for accepting what the camino offered rather than expecting it to offer what I might have wanted.

I was the first into the gym/sports hall when I walked in 2010 - it was just before Easter, and the CF was crowded, but it set the scene for accepting what the camino offered rather than expecting it to offer what I might have wanted.

my sis n i were the first in the sports hall and i recall saying yahoo we are so lucky we get to pick the cleanest mattresses and a bunch of kids and there parents were playing at the time,, sometimes in life we have to look on the bright side ,,and i might add we had a great night sleep..

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Zubiri might need more beds. It is a logical distance for exhausted feet leaving Roncesvalles! Larrasoana has a decent number of beds, but it has developed a reputation for being among the worst albergues on the Camino. Between the two towns, there are over 200 albergue beds, and that is not enough during summer months. Personally, I start in Pamplona because the whole stretch is not worth the aggravation (but then I have seen the Pyrenees views four times, so suffer from a lack of motivation; I do understand the lure.)!

Albergue municipal de Zubiri Avda. Zubiri (en la antiguas escuelas) 78 plazas 8 euros | Cocina de uso libre
Albergue Zaldiko C. Puente de la Rabia, 1 (en la entrada) 24 plazas 10 euros | Sin cocina (microondas y frigorífico)
Albergue El Palo de Avellano Avda. Roncesvalles, 16 57 plazas 15-17 euros (d) | Cena comunitaria

Pensión Usoa: C. Puente de la Rabia, 4 | A pie de camino | 5 hab. | 25 € ind. / 33-36 € dob. | Reserva: 948-30-43-06
Pensión Amets: C. Gerestegi, 25 | Céntrico | 4 hab. | 30-35 € ind. / 40-45 € dob. | Reserva: 618-63-61-89
Pensión Benta Berri: C. Roncesvalles, 10 4º izda. | Céntrico | 3 hab. | 35 € dob. | Reserva: 636-13-47-81
Hostal Gau Txori: Ctra. N-135, km 21 | A 1 km de camino | 7 hab. | 40 € ind. / 55 € dob. | Reserva: 948-30-40-76
Hostería de Zubiri: Avda. Roncesvalles, 6 | Céntrico | 68-115 € ind. / 85-115 € dob. | 19 hab. | Reserva: 948-30-43-29

Albergue municipal de Larrasoaña C. San Nicolás (Ayuntamiento) 58+ plazas 6 euros | Cocina de uso libre

 

[Felice]

hi , good to hear you got a bed in zubiri but can say although it makes a great[horror] story ending up on a mattress in a sports hall , we had a great night sleep as were ONLY about 25 other people in the hall,, so despite lots of moans n groans getting down to our mattresses we were very happy,

At least you had a mattress. The people I talked to had to NO MATTRESS at all at Los Arcos. And they said that the concrete floor was not only very hard, but worse still, very cold. Same at Najera, hence the sheets of cardboard for insulation.

 

[Felice]

my sis n i were the first in the sports hall and i recall saying yahoo we are so lucky we get to pick the cleanest mattresses and a bunch of kids and there parents were playing at the time,, sometimes in life we have to look on the bright side ,,and i might add we had a great night sleep..

I would not have minded sleeping on the floor - at least that would have eliminated the 'earthquake' that happened every time the person above/below turned over when sleeping in some of the more 'fragile' bunk beds!!

 

[tpmchugh]

I started the second part of my Camino from Burgos 5th September 2013. Had no problems whatsoever with over crowding, even after Sarria. I did hear rumours that Pamplona was filled to the brim about two weeks behind me . However, I tended to use the Brierley guide for albergues in the middle of what we called 'Brierley Days'. For example, we stayed in Mercadoiro in an albergue with lots of space but next morning as we walked into Portomarín the crowds leaving was unbelievable. Our routine was start about 6:30 walk for about 6 hours then stop at next albergue so we never had problems with 'completo'. Only problem with September in my opinion is the fact that each morning is darker so you can miss a lot