LIVE from the Camino Should I skip Roncesvalles to Pamplona?

[Amanda Surbey]

I land in SJPdP on Sunday, 9 Nov. Weather permitting, I'm walking to Roncesvalles the next morning where I booked a hotel as my conversations with the Refugio in Roncesvalles left me confused about if they were even open. I think only the older, smaller part is open. Decided since I have to go elsewhere for dinner anyhow, and I know I'll be exhausted, I'll just go the hotel route.

Problem now is I don't see anything open until Pamplona, and while I'm sure I can walk to, say Larrasoana (27 km), I doubt I can make another 16 km in the same day.

Should I find some sort of transportation to Pamplona? What options are there? Can I get information in the pilgrim office in SJPdP on Monday morning? Is doing the Camino in November just a bad idea? I'm prepared for weather, but I'm really starting to fret about not finding accommodations.

 

[whariwharangi]

I land in SJPdP on Sunday, 9 Nov. Weather permitting, I'm walking to Roncesvalles the next morning where I booked a hotel as my conversations with the Refugio in Roncesvalles left me confused about if they were even open. I think only the older, smaller part is open. Decided since I have to go elsewhere for dinner anyhow, and I know I'll be exhausted, I'll just go the hotel route.

Problem now is I don't see anything open until Pamplona, and while I'm sure I can walk to, say Larrasoana (27 km), I doubt I can make another 16 km in the same day.

Should I find some sort of transportation to Pamplona? What options are there? Can I get information in the pilgrim office in SJPdP on Monday morning? Is doing the Camino in November just a bad idea? I'm prepared for weather, but I'm really starting to fret about not finding accommodations.

Ask the people at the pilgrim office for a list of association albergues. The list includes fairly accurate (not 100% - its not possible) information about dates of operation.

The albergue at Roncesvalles is open all year.

The Eroski site gives a list of most of the albergues and dates of operation.
http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergues/#camino-frances

Bus station Pamplona
http://www.estaciondeautobusesdepamplona.com/Inicio.aspx

Local bus service from Roncesvalles to Pamplona is provided by Autocares Artieda. Note it does not operate on Sundays.
http://www.autocaresartieda.com/

Conda offers bus service from Pamplona to SJPdP and return with a stop in Roncesvalles. The service is seasonal and I didn't check if it is still running this late. Note the schedule is on the ALSA site (Conda is owned by ALSA) and the bus service is an international route.

Conda
http://www.conda.es/

 

[Amanda Surbey]

Very helpful. I have several lists, but one more is always helpful. I'm thinking I will take a bus from Roncesvalles to Zubiri. I can walk to Trinidad de Arre from there, and it looks like things are open.

Thank you again.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

Oh! The bus Autocares Artieda looks like the perfect solution! In the winter, if my Spanish hasn't totally failed me, it leaves Roncesvalles weekdays at 9:20 for the bargain price of 6€.

I'm sorry not to walk every step of the Way, but I'm sensing a lesson to be learned here.

Muchas gracias!

 

[MichaelSG]

There are places to stay if you want. Also, if you can't make it to a town with a bed, you can always taxi / hitch a ride to the next town and go back the next morning to walk every step. Just some options if you want so there is no need to give up hope yet.

 

[ranthr]

Oh! The bus Autocares Artieda looks like the perfect solution! In the winter, if my Spanish hasn't totally failed me, it leaves Roncesvalles weekdays at 9:20 for the bargain price of 6€.

I'm sorry not to walk every step of the Way, but I'm sensing a lesson to be learned here.

Muchas gracias!

Good choice, the walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri might be hard and then going on to Arres is killing. By the way, there is a small hotel 1 km after Larresoña, hotel Rural Akarreta, if you have seen the Way, there was a sequence from that hotel. They have special offers for pilgrims and also taxi people from Zubiri. I stayed there some years ago, good food, friendly host.
When you cross the main road in Zabaldica, some km before Arres, if the weather is bad, instead of climbing up along Monte Nerval it is possible to follow the pathroad along rio Arga. It might be a little longer but no muddy climbing.
Have a nice wintercamino!

 

[CaptBuddy]

Good choice, the walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri might be hard and then going on to Arres is killing. By the way, there is a small hotel 1 km after Larresoña, hotel Rural Akarreta, if you have seen the Way, there was a sequence from that hotel. They have special offers for pilgrims and also taxi people from Zubiri. I stayed there some years ago, good food, friendly host.
When you cross the main road in Zabaldica, some km before Arres, if the weather is bad, instead of climbing up along Monte Nerval it is possible to follow the pathroad along rio Arga. It might be a little longer but no muddy climbing.
Have a nice wintercamino!

We stayed at Hotel Akarreta, and it was great. Full of peregrinos, lots of good folks. The owner is a former Jai Alai player who played in my home town in Florida. Small world. Recommend Akarreta highly.

 

[Saramago]

I land in SJPdP on Sunday, 9 Nov. Weather permitting, I'm walking to Roncesvalles the next morning where I booked a hotel as my conversations with the Refugio in Roncesvalles left me confused about if they were even open. I think only the older, smaller part is open. Decided since I have to go elsewhere for dinner anyhow, and I know I'll be exhausted, I'll just go the hotel route.

Problem now is I don't see anything open until Pamplona, and while I'm sure I can walk to, say Larrasoana (27 km), I doubt I can make another 16 km in the same day.

Should I find some sort of transportation to Pamplona? What options are there? Can I get information in the pilgrim office in SJPdP on Monday morning? Is doing the Camino in November just a bad idea? I'm prepared for weather, but I'm really starting to fret about not finding accommodations.

I stayed at www.elpalodeavellano.com in Zubiri. El Palo De Avellano, across from the muni . It appears to be open year round (just checked). It has a great dinner and breakfast, a comfortable family room, wifi and the lady will do your laundry for a few euro. She also has a hairdryer. It was a fun night with lots of joking and singing. Buen Camino.

 

[Saramago]

^ ok - that reply was pre-coffee. Post coffee check it looks like it's open for groups in winter. No harm in checking anyway. Or for another year. Sorry. (I was solo as were most of the folks that stayed that night).

 

[NavyBlue]

Hello,

it looks like it's open for groups in winter. No harm in checking anyway.

In MiamMiam Dodo : "ouv. mars à nov. BS résa nécessaire et poss. prix groupes"
i.e. "open from March to November. In low season, booking is necessary, special prices for groups are possible."

 

[David Egglestone]

It was my favorite section

 

[Scott Sweeney]

No you should not. Skip or run past Zubiri...but don't miss the Pyrenees if you can help it.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

^ ok - that reply was pre-coffee. Post coffee check it looks like it's open for groups in winter. No harm in checking anyway. Or for another year. Sorry. (I was solo as were most of the folks that stayed that night).

Yeah . . . I sent them an email and they sent me their regrets.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

No you should not. Skip or run past Zubiri...but don't miss the Pyrenees if you can help it.

I'm definitely going to walk over those mountains! Zubiri . . . I'm not committed to. But I'm gonna do SJPdP to Roncesvalles!

 

[Amanda Surbey]

I hadn't checked back here for a while and LOOK AT YOU ALL posting helpful stuff. Big hugs and many thanks!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I land in SJPdP on Sunday, 9 Nov. Weather permitting, I'm walking to Roncesvalles the next morning where I booked a hotel as my conversations with the Refugio in Roncesvalles left me confused about if they were even open. I think only the older, smaller part is open. Decided since I have to go elsewhere for dinner anyhow, and I know I'll be exhausted, I'll just go the hotel route.

Problem now is I don't see anything open until Pamplona, and while I'm sure I can walk to, say Larrasoana (27 km), I doubt I can make another 16 km in the same day.

Should I find some sort of transportation to Pamplona? What options are there? Can I get information in the pilgrim office in SJPdP on Monday morning? Is doing the Camino in November just a bad idea? I'm prepared for weather, but I'm really starting to fret about not finding accommodations.

No!!! It's one of my favourite parts, if not my favourite part. It brings me to tears when I walk it. It's the physical challenge, the meeting with nature, and nature being their for your own pleasure.

PM me, and I can send you a list of albergues I have with dates they are open, if I can find it.

 

[Saramago]

There is a pension in Zubiri - that was open this am (I put mid-November in as a date) on Booking.com. 35USD Pension Amets - just rechecked and now it's at 42.13 with 2 rooms left - no, just back down again in 2 seconds to 35.58 USD. If you are staying at the albergue in Roncevalles instead of hotel, that frees up funds for a room in Zubiri. It has a 7.7 rating, wifi, laundry and heat. Just throwing it out! Buen Camino.
Oh, it says there is a garden, river view and a medieval bridge. You are then 20k to Pamplona.

 

[Saramago]

Wise Pilgrim and Booking.com are handy apps if you are bring a phone. Keep in mind, usually only some rooms in Pensions and B&Bs are listed (if any). This is because a 15% commission is collected for bookings.

 

[shefollowsshells]

No!!! It's one of my favourite parts, if not my favourite part. It brings me to tears when I walk it. It's the physical challenge, the meeting with nature, and nature being their for your own pleasure.

PM me, and I can send you a list of albergues I have with dates they are open, if I can find it.

Agreeing, I could never suggest that you skip this part, especially if the fear is lack of accomodation as I think there will be a bed somewhere.
I really loved this day and walk...I would consider the bonds you have made with people in this first stage over the mountains as well.
I would consider a taxi if a bed can not be found only...I would not make any plans before that time to move on ahead at this point.
No matter your decision your Camino will be a wonderful experience and the Camino you were meant to have
Buen camino!

 

[Amanda Surbey]

No!!! It's one of my favourite parts, if not my favourite part. It brings me to tears when I walk it. It's the physical challenge, the meeting with nature, and nature being their for your own pleasure.

PM me, and I can send you a list of albergues I have with dates they are open, if I can find it.

Even after Roncesvalles?

 

[Amanda Surbey]

We stayed at Hotel Akarreta, and it was great. Full of peregrinos, lots of good folks. The owner is a former Jai Alai player who played in my home town in Florida. Small world. Recommend Akarreta highly.

I'm almost positive I emailed them and they said they were closed.

 

[CaptBuddy]

I'm almost positive I emailed them and they said they were closed.

Now that you mention it, that is likely the case. I recall that he said they would soon close for the winter season. On the previous day, we were the last guests at Corazon Puro before their winter closing.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

Slightly off topic, but only slightly, I am, as I type, printing out the latest version of the List of Albergues.

Do the colors have any significance? The different shades of green . . . or is it just for ease of reading (albergues grouped by village)?

 

[Amanda Surbey]

There is a pension in Zubiri - that was open this am (I put mid-November in as a date) on Booking.com. 35USD Pension Amets - just rechecked and now it's at 42.13 with 2 rooms left - no, just back down again in 2 seconds to 35.58 USD. If you are staying at the albergue in Roncevalles instead of hotel, that frees up funds for a room in Zubiri. It has a 7.7 rating, wifi, laundry and heat. Just throwing it out! Buen Camino.
Oh, it says there is a garden, river view and a medieval bridge. You are then 20k to Pamplona.

I just booked it. Single room for 28.50 EUR. Thank you!

 

[shefollowsshells]

I land in SJPdP on Sunday, 9 Nov. Weather permitting, I'm walking to Roncesvalles the next morning where I booked a hotel as my conversations with the Refugio in Roncesvalles left me confused about if they were even open. I think only the older, smaller part is open. Decided since I have to go elsewhere for dinner anyhow, and I know I'll be exhausted, I'll just go the hotel route.

Problem now is I don't see anything open until Pamplona, and while I'm sure I can walk to, say Larrasoana (27 km), I doubt I can make another 16 km in the same day.

Should I find some sort of transportation to Pamplona? What options are there? Can I get information in the pilgrim office in SJPdP on Monday morning? Is doing the Camino in November just a bad idea? I'm prepared for weather, but I'm really starting to fret about not finding accommodations.

Amanda keep in mind the pilgrims office in SJPdP will be able to tell you what is open etc...they day you are in SJPdP.
At this time of year you will have a lot of their attention (I would imagine) as there will not be 200 people plus trying to get it.
I wouldn't be surprised if they are able to secure or help you secure a bed in these first days that are making you nervous before you even take a step

 

[Amanda Surbey]

I need to lighten up, I know. I don't usually make any travel plans without everything mapped out down to the minute and inch. Spontaneity is NOT my middle name.

I have a dear friend here in Luxembourg who did the Camino in November about 5 years ago, and she didn't have a minute's trouble and she didn't book anything in advance. She's been counseling me to let go a little and just roll with it. I can clearly see that this will be a theme in my Camino.

It will be good for me as, personally, we will certainly have BIG changes coming in 2015 (which is partly why I am doing the Camino now . . . go when you can!). I'm hoping to learn a little zen and carry that with me into my "after life."

 

[Felipe]

I am with the "just go and see what happens" crowd, but on the other side, a winter Camino requires a bit more planning. It is not funny to arrive at a village with only two albergues, and find that both of them are closed...this would be a mere inconvenience in summer, but it may spell serious trouble in a very cold, windy and rainy day. Generally speaking, a phone call one or two days before arriving generally will do it.
My system is to plan my journey in a very general way, and be sure to have always a "plan b", just in case.
Buen camino!

ps: btw... in Zubiri, the Taberna Baserri, near the main church (and a jacobean shell on the door), is quite good, with traditional Basque food.

 

[tploomis]

I would not want to miss any part of St. Jean to Pamplona. If I were to do it again, I would do it as I did it last time. Walk until I was tired, stop at the next town, and check into an open accommodation. There will always be options available. Those options might not be what was imagined, but those are the best.

 

[neverlost4good]

You could always jump to a southern route. They look wonderful.

 

[Thornley]

I need to lighten up, I know. I don't usually make any travel plans without everything mapped out down to the minute and inch. Spontaneity is NOT my middle name.

I have a dear friend here in Luxembourg who did the Camino in November about 5 years ago, and she didn't have a minute's trouble and she didn't book anything in advance. She's been counseling me to let go a little and just roll with it. I can clearly see that this will be a theme in my Camino.

It will be good for me as, personally, we will certainly have BIG changes coming in 2015 (which is partly why I am doing the Camino now . . . go when you can!). I'm hoping to learn a little zen and carry that with me into my "after life."

Amanda , if winter comes early or there is heavy rain or whatever you might be told by the office in St J ""over the mountain is no recommended"".
That is the end of the conversation.
If you skip the first part walk the extra 100km to Muxia.
You will get rain from O'C onwards so the extra 3 or 4 days won't hurt.
Don't plan too much it has some surprises .
Good luck and i personally would love to consider that time of year but its not possible .

 

[Kanga]

@Amanda Surbey do not take risks with the Route Napoleon at this time of the year. People do die up there. In winter I would always go via Valcarlos.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

I have been reading about Valcarlos, and it sounds like a fine alternative. I shall take the advice of the Pilgrim office no matter what, but I am also thinking to just do the Valcarlos route (weather permitting).

Muxia is an excellent idea, too.

Thanks so much!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I am also thinking to just do the Valcarlos route

Signage will try to lure you off the road a few times. Particularly in bad weather, just stick to the road. The switchbacks will increase distance marginally, but the footing is better, and it is impossible to get lost!

 

[Amanda Surbey]

Noted! Brierly does show some little alternatives running along the road.

I did pick up one of those fluorescent yellow reflector vests and two reflecting yellow arm/leg bands just this morning. I also have some little red and white lights I use for cycling I can hang on the front/back of me . . . Imma gonna look like a Christmas tree!

 

[basquelady]

I just booked it. Single room for 28.50 EUR. Thank you!

Good choice! We stayed there Sept 2013 and found it v comfortable. From the bridge, you'll see the back of a row of houses, one of which is Pensión Amets. I'll try to attach a pic!

 

[Amanda Surbey]

Oh, thank you so much!

 

[Saramago]

Noted! Brierly does show some little alternatives running along the road.

I did pick up one of those fluorescent yellow reflector vests and two reflecting yellow arm/leg bands just this morning. I also have some little red and white lights I use for cycling I can hang on the front/back of me . . . Imma gonna look like a Christmas tree!

Haha! You will be "in season" then - I brought a whistle/flashing light that I found at a sport store. Another idea is to get some adhesive reflective tape from a hardware store - you can just lay it down on anything and a bit around your poles.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

I have a whistle on the key ring with the key to a little padlock I have for just-in-case. I use the whistle often, actually, when hiking with a larger group and you need to get someone's attention because they are chatting and missed a sign or something. But could be useful if one fell or something and needed help.

 

[owms2323]

I land in SJPdP on Sunday, 9 Nov. Weather permitting, I'm walking to Roncesvalles the next morning where I booked a hotel as my conversations with the Refugio in Roncesvalles left me confused about if they were even open. I think only the older, smaller part is open. Decided since I have to go elsewhere for dinner anyhow, and I know I'll be exhausted, I'll just go the hotel route.

Problem now is I don't see anything open until Pamplona, and while I'm sure I can walk to, say Larrasoana (27 km), I doubt I can make another 16 km in the same day.

Should I find some sort of transportation to Pamplona? What options are there? Can I get information in the pilgrim office in SJPdP on Monday morning? Is doing the Camino in November just a bad idea? I'm prepared for weather, but I'm really starting to fret about not finding accommodations.

We walked Roncevalles to Zubiri(horrible descent) and there were no rooms 0n Sept 8, so we taxi'd tp Pamplona.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

Weather is looking excellent for tomorrow. A gift from the Camino.

 

[Thornley]

Weather is looking excellent for tomorrow. A gift from the Camino.

Safe walk , bon courage

 

[Amanda Surbey]

Arrived SJPdP. Tomorrow is the big day.

Culling (the backpack) continues.

 

[Mike Savage]

So exciting. Buen Camino!

 

[brawblether]

I too like to plan, I get anxious when I am just walking blindly. When I walked this year in February on my own I would plan the following two day's walk - one day ahead in winter isn't enough becuase you could end up with a 50km walk by accident on the second day becuase of the scarcity of albergues open. I think 32kms was the longest day I walked and that was fine. Everyone finds what works for them. I agree very very strongly with the "take it as it comes" mindset, but in winter don't do it blindly. Plan a couple of days ahead as a I said, and then take it as it comes! My plans and my actual days didn't always work out, but that was half the fun.

Walk well! Buen camino!

 

[Amanda Surbey]

For me the analogy between this and childbirth is amazingly strong. I had my ideas about how that was going to go. I planned and read and wrote things down and did my homework. And neither birth was at all what I expected. And both turned out just fine.

 

[David Egglestone]

I just booked it. Single room for 28.50 EUR. Thank you!

Always try to stay in albergues. Your family will be there too

 

[brawblether]

Always try to stay in albergues. Your family will be there too

...only if it is your way of doing things. Do what works for you.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

The problem is how few are open this time of year. I'll do it in Pamplona, for sure.

 

[Amanda Surbey]

Also, I snore. A lot.

And I've read posts here about "if you can afford a hotel, leave the albergue beds for those who can't."

 

[brawblether]

Also, I snore. A lot.

And I've read posts here about "if you can afford a hotel, leave the albergue beds for those who can't."

I actaully haven't come across those threads but whether I agree with them or not, you'll find at this time of year they won't get booked out

 

[Amanda Surbey]

No, they are just closed