Which Brierley stage stops should I NOT skip?

[Sacha]

Hi everyone! I am soon continuing my camino in Logroño and will walk until Leon.

I would like to walk most without reserving anything but are there any Brierley stages in your opinion that are a must to stop overnight? Might consider reserving a day or two before in that case.

For now I think Ill definitely try to stop in Burgos.

Is Santo Domingo de la Calzada a worthy stop?

 

[SabsP]

Hi everyone! I am soon continuing my camino in Logroño and will walk until Leon.

I would like to walk most without reserving anything but are there any Brierley stages in your opinion that are a must to stop overnight? Might consider reserving a day or two before in that case.

For now I think Ill definitely try to stop in Burgos.

Is Santo Domingo de la Calzada a worthy stop?

I myself am not a fan of the Brierley guide and do not care much for traditional stops .

Burgos is a classic stop of course and the cathedral is worth seeing , though I prefer the stillness of the cathedral in Leon.

Fromista is not to be missed IMO.

Frómista | Romanesque Spain

The monastic church of San Martín de Frómista is likely the most well-known church on this site, and one of the most well-known of all Romanesque monuments in Spain.

www.romanesquespain.com

But for me the nicest stops were the ones where nothing much happened.
I spent a quiet afternoon in Rabé de las Calzadas once ( only walked from Burgos that day ) and sat in the local bar, went to mass and talked to some fellow pilgrims.
Another stop was in Reliegos on a rainy March day when it seemed I was the only pilgrim that stopped in this village that day.

So what defines " a must stop " ? It can mean different things for different people.

 

[JabbaPapa]

The more important stopping points on the Francès are important in their own right, and not because of Brierley and his own personal preferences.

Apart from that YMMV.

 

[markie6]

Most of my most memorable stops were so because of the people I met at them ( or during the walk to them )

It does depend on what you want to do at the end of the days walk. What ever places you get pointed to from here or any guidebook will be subjective

Relaxing... Carrion or Hontanas .. Sightseeing... Burgos or Leon

 

[Sacha]

I do love some sightseeing.

For example, I loved Puente de la Reina. Such a beautiful medieval village, loved lounging under the bridge.

I will put Fromista on the list, thanks!

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi everyone! I am soon continuing my camino in Logroño and will walk until Leon.
I would like to walk most without reserving anything but are there any Brierley stages in your opinion that are a must to stop overnight? Might consider reserving a day or two before in that case.
For now I think Ill definitely try to stop in Burgos.
Is Santo Domingo de la Calzada a worthy stop?

Hi Sacha, Sto Domingo is a nice little town. The municipal has more than 150 beds and gets good reviews (but I stayed last with the nuns at the Cistercian Abbey - also fine). Obvs if you stay you have the chance to visit the chickens - although I think most people report being slightly underwhelmed by the experience.. I do remember climbing up a bell tower (probably the cathedral?) and we had amazing 360 views - stayed there for nearly half an hour taking it all in.
However.... Granon is another 6.5km further on and probably (and rightly) the most famous donativo albergue on the CF, so decisions, decisions....

 

[thejoker]

Everyone's going to give a different answer. My favourite place to stop at is Castrojeriz. I adore this amazing village as it gives a glimpse of what the Middle Ages might have looked like. The churches are special and the extra hike to the castle is well worth it for amazing views. The sweets from the Santa Clara convent are so yummy. At the camp site restaurant, delicious lamb was available for dinner (not sure if it still is). I either spend 2 days here or a long day after a short walk from Hontanas. Then, sunrise (if it's out) the next morning from the top of the gentle hill just beyond Castrojeriz, is one of the best on the entire Camino.

 

[J Willhaus]

Actually we also like to stay overnight in the Parador in Santo Domingo. There are two there and compared to many other locations they are "right priced" and you can get a pilgrim discount if you reserve ahead. We called the reservation line for that, but I think there is a link mentioned in an earlier thread for pilgrims as well. We stay at the "downtown" location. Good parador breakfast if you want to hang around that long. Lots of good things about Santo Domingo. We enjoy the cathedral there. Also a good laundromat right off one of the plazas where you can enjoy people watching and having a beer at an outside table while washing your duds.

 

[naplesdon]

En el Camino in Boadilla is great stop but I don't think it one of Brierley's choices.

 

[Dougie1982valley]

Molinaseca!

 

[Former member 92300]

Honesty, my favorite places were places I hadn't planned to stop. And often it had nothing to do with the town, but the experiences I had in the town. One town I stayed in I was the only pilgrim in the municipal albergue (right after COVID/Spain reopening) and the wife cooked me a special dinner. Another town I stopped in unexpectedly because it was raining and cold and miserable - and I found a cute little bar and decided to stay in a nearby albergue - and later in the same bar the owner snuck me upstairs to a closed dining room and had his wife prepare me dinner and then invited me back for breakfast in the morning. There are great towns all along the Camino - but my favorites where places I hadn't intended to stop because something special happened in those places. Also - a lot of places "everyone loves to stay" tend to be nothing special for me. Just walk, and if you can - decide where you want to stay as you walk. Keep flexible if you can. The best experiences are often the unexpected.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Carrion de Los Condes, Castrojeriz, the museum just 1 km off the Camino at Atapuerca and my favorite "tourist event" the bell tower with the bell and clock museum in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The museum is well worth the 2 or 3 euro charge. Warning, when up in the bell tower cover your ears before



the bell strikes! It is not piped music. The problem with the Camino Frances is there are "too many great options" of wonderful small towns and villages plus fantastic cathedrals. Buen Camino

 

[Silvermomma]

So interesting! Sorry, Joker, I believe you, but I am in Castrojeriz ATM and it is dead dead dead. The town is long and thin, more than 20 minutes from end to end. No cafes, no center, no street life at all! You can skip it.
Hornillos was peaceful and the buildings beautifully preserved.
The whole “stage” thing is annoying.

 

[Bradypus]

I believe you, but I am in Castrojeriz ATM and it is dead dead dead. The town is long and thin, more than 20 minutes from end to end. No cafes, no center, no street life at all!

Very strange. I stayed in Castrojeriz in January and I ate in two cafes there. Hard to imagine they have vanished at the busiest time of year.

 

[Former member 92300]

Very strange. I stayed in Castrojeriz in January and I ate in two cafes there. Hard to imagine they have vanished at the busiest time of year.

And google maps still shows 2 bars, a pizzeria, and a supermarket.

Sometimes the so called "dead" towns are my favorite!

 

[Walkerooni]

I don't understand the flack aimed at Brierley for his "stages". Even HE says these are NOT to be considered stages, but for purposes of dividing a 796k walk into some sort of bits. Ciccerone books divide their routes by "stages", as does Gronze! So just know good people, that whatever tool you are using, all are guides. Stop wherever, whenever you like and your Camino will be perfect for you.

 

[JabbaPapa]

So just know good people, that whatever tool you are using, all are guides.

Haven't used a guide book since giving mine away after about 3-4 days in 1993.

It was returned to me some years later, so it's a pleasant souvenir item, but usefulness ? Nil.

 

[Bradypus]

I don't understand the flack aimed at Brierley for his "stages". Even HE says these are NOT to be considered stages, but for purposes of dividing a 796k walk into someone sort of bits.

Unfortunately a lot of first-time walkers assume that as it is the de facto standard English-language guide Brierley's stages are the "proper" way to walk the Camino and also assume the stages will be easily achievable. I have met a number of people over the years who have pre-booked their accommodation and return travel based on those stages and then struggled to keep to their plans. Sometimes injuring themselves by pushing too hard or being forced to skip sections by public transport to reach Santiago by their return date.

 

[Sacha]

Many good tips everyone thanks!

What I like to do is not actually plan ahead but right now while I am still stuck at home, I am favoriting all the albergues, museums and other interesting places I would be interested to sleep/eat/see/do. So when I want to stop for the day, all I have to do is look at my map to see all my options.

This way I will avoid looking up things and spending more time on my phone that I would like on the camino.

I also write down notes with the pins on Google maps, such as the aforementioned museum, chickens, bell tower..

 

[HoosierOldLady]

I am soon continuing my camino in Logroño and will walk until Leon.

I am also beginning my Camino in Logroño (May 27) and walking to León, where I will take the San Salvador to Oviedo and then the Primitivo to Santiago. Is that your plan, or will you stop in León?

 

[Paul McAmino]

Santo Domingo de la Calzada has chickens in its church. You can watch them behind a window, and they can watch you. They are reputed to be descendants of some long gone miraculous poultry, with a backstory. Stay at the Parador, walk on the church roof, check out the story of the chickens.

All the best,

Paul

 

[Tincatinker]

None of the following is true except when it is: Brierley’s 33 stages are based on the number of years the Christ spent on Earth. Brierley walks the Camino every year to check how many pilgrims are using his guidebook. He gets a free tostada in every cafe he mentions. He never stays in his “end-stage” towns- that’s how he always gets a bed. If you spot him and correctly state “you are John Brierley and I claim my free Orujo” he will buy you a drink at the next available bar. John Brierley does not actually exist- “he” is an AI Bot operated by F.I.C.S in an attempt to perpetuate Camino myths….

OK, I’m getting tired but there must be more JB myths and misunderstandings. Perhaps someone else could add to the confusion?

ps: don’t miss Logrono, Burgos, Mansilla de las Mulas and Vilar de Donas

 

[Walkerooni]

Unfortunately a lot of first-time walkers assume that as it is the de facto standard English-language guide Brierley's stages are the "proper" way to walk the Camino and also assume the stages will be easily achievable. I have met a number of people over the years who have pre-booked their accommodation and return travel based on those stages and then struggled to keep to their plans. Sometimes injuring themselves by pushing too hard or being forced to skip sections by public transport to reach Santiago by their return date.

The point I am making is that this is not Brierley’s fault, any more than it is Gronze’s fault, or Ciccerone’s fault... If people cannot read his clear disclaimer about these not being “set” stages, and if they have not trained at all, and have no idea of their capabilities, that is on them. The advantage to either having a guide book or using Gronze, is that it clearly shows distance between towns and accommodations so that one can see all the options and chose something that suits their needs. I tend to walk until I feel like stopping, or like the look of a place, see people I know, join them for a lemon beer and decide to stay. But it would also be helpful for first timers to know, for example , that if they walk past Carrion de los Condes, they need to be prepared to go another 17k before they find their next bed. Some who decry guidebooks, walk their whole Camino looking at apps. Regardless of the tool, it is a guide, not a Policy and Procedures Manual. That is all.

 

[CWBuff]

Molinaseca!

.... I thought OP stated she is walking only to Leon?!
It is so hard to pick and chose... every town has something to offer "if you let it", you know?!
Santo Domingo de Calzada - OF COURSE the chicken cannot be missed
Belorado - full of history and there is also "The Way" Walk of Fame (like Hollywood Blvd)
Burgos is absolutely worthy of extra day or two (rest one and play tourist the other)
Hornillos del Camino - nice and quiet and what an awesome Pilgrims' Mass
Castrojeritz - also relaxing but then go climb to the castle (If you dare)
Fromista - San Martin church and the BEST IBERIAN RIBS I had on the whole camino! (at El Chiringuito Del Cam) ... and not to mention a walk to the town along that canal)

 

[thejoker]

So interesting! Sorry, Joker, I believe you, but I am in Castrojeriz ATM and it is dead dead dead. The town is long and thin, more than 20 minutes from end to end. No cafes, no center, no street life at all! You can skip it.
Hornillos was peaceful and the buildings beautifully preserved.
The whole “stage” thing is annoying.

Just quietly walking around those timeless, ancient streets is like a trip back to the Middle Ages to be absolutely savored. I too am surprised you couldn't find a cafe open. On the many times I have walked though this village, I've always encountered at least a couple of places open and often more. Maybe things have changed this year, so thank you for updating

 

[JabbaPapa]

So interesting! Sorry, Joker, I believe you, but I am in Castrojeriz ATM and it is dead dead dead. The town is long and thin, more than 20 minutes from end to end. No cafes, no center, no street life at all!

Siesta ?

 

[howardd5]

Hi everyone! I am soon continuing my camino in Logroño and will walk until Leon.

I would like to walk most without reserving anything but are there any Brierley stages in your opinion that are a must to stop overnight? Might consider reserving a day or two before in that case.

For now I think Ill definitely try to stop in Burgos.

Is Santo Domingo de la Calzada a worthy stop?

There is a summer bull fight there which was bloody and not for everybody . It’s a quiet walk around but maybe not a stay over .

 

[David Tallan]

There is a summer bill fight there which was bloody and not for everybody . It’s a quiet walk around but maybe not a stay over .

Some people say the same about Pamplona.

Assuming you meant a bull fight, not a bill fight (fighting over who pays the bill?).

 

[Steve5000]

I myself am not a fan of the Brierley guide and do not care much for traditional stops .

Burgos is a classic stop of course and the cathedral is worth seeing , though I prefer the stillness of the cathedral in Leon.

Fromista is not to be missed IMO.

Frómista | Romanesque Spain

The monastic church of San Martín de Frómista is likely the most well-known church on this site, and one of the most well-known of all Romanesque monuments in Spain.

www.romanesquespain.com

But for me the nicest stops were the ones where nothing much happened.
I spent a quiet afternoon in Rabé de las Calzadas once ( only walked from Burgos that day ) and sat in the local bar, went to mass and talked to some fellow pilgrims.
Another stop was in Reliegos on a rainy March day when it seemed I was the only pilgrim that stopped in this village that day.

So what defines " a must stop " ? It can mean different things for different people.

I would echo this sentiment from my recent CF - I didn't take the Brierley or any other guides - and tended to veer away from the structured, regimented stages. (I've spent most of my professional and family life with a high degree of planning and structure for some very obvious reasons (!) so it was great to follow my instincts and nose on the Camino.)

Without giving a complete list of all the wonderful towns and village of Northern Spain I would always suggest approaching any (potential) stop with any open mind and be prepared to be surprised and impressed with either the place, general scenery and the people you meet - especially the later, both locals and perigrinos. To possibly respond to SabsP the only'must stop' is when you are really tired and hungry! Otherwise explore some of the lesser-visited villages - plus it may be easier to find a bed...

ps. Brierley is the the leading English Language guide so let's be sensitive to all the other nationalities on the Camino - especially the Spanish.

 

[Steve5000]

Some people say the same about Pamplona.

Assuming you meant a bull fight, not a bill fight (fighting over who pays the bill?).

We had one of those one day - joke! - over who was going to pay for all the great Vino Tinto from Navarre (not Rioja) that was consumed!

 

[AlwynWellington]

re there any Brierley stages in your opinion that are a must to stop overnight?

To help me consider your question I've pulled out the maps only version dated 2013.

Regrettably, I've stopped at so few of the stage shown.

My practice was to walk till I had enjoyed the day and what was to be seen along the way, and then find accommodation. And serendipity played a large part in what I encountered and remembered.

But that is me. You will do things your way.

Kia kaha, kia māia, kia mana'wa'nui (take care, be strong, confident and patient)

 

[AlwynWellington]

@Sacha, what I should also said is many of the memorable moments for me were/are not found in any guide book.

This is the people I met along the way.

A very poignant moment for me was at the evening (pilgrim's) mass beside the parish albergue in Logrono. To my left was a clutch of ladies. At the peace the closest extended her hand. When I took her hand I felt a small coin fall into my palm. On seeing what was there, I beamed and thanked her with my eyes and a silent "thank you". It was but 1 Euro. The value to me was immense. And I suspect to her also - in a way she was participating in her pilgrimage.

And yes the Museum of Humanity (or whatever) at Burgos. Or keeping up with a young woman (I am far from being young) on the hill just west of Castrojeriz. And so they go on.

Kia kaha

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Don't skip anything. The places are put in that order for a good reason. It's up to you to find out what that is.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Castrojeritz - also relaxing but then go climb to the castle (If you dare)

CW, I dared and Ioved it!

 

[CWBuff]

CW, I dared and Ioved it!

Of COURSE you did
Why am I not surprised?!