A tale of two Caminos - What about those crowds?

[trecile]

And they are both the Camino Francés!

Lastly, I would like every newby to be informed that the high season in the first section of the CF is not the Summer at all: the high season are May and September, while the Summer (August and especially July) are the low season; it's not like that at all in the last section of the CF (Galicia), where the Summer months are the busiest ones.

As @Juanma says, the high (crowded) seasons of the first 700 km of the Camino Francés are in May and September, (and it seems increasingly in April), while the high season of the last 100 km after Sarria occurs in July and August. This is due to the large amounts of pilgrims who walk the last 100 km during their summer holidays, many of whom are part of school, church, or family groups. As @ivar points out on this thread, 35% of Compostelas are given to pilgrims who start in Sarria. That's 35% of all pilgrims on all routes. Meanwhile, in St Jean Pied de Port the most popular months to start are May and September.


(click to enlarge graphs)






To make matters worse, there aren't as many accommodations available in the first 100 km after SJPdP as there are in the Sarria - Santiago stretch. Which leads us to frantic pilgrims who can't find a bed during these months. (though the vast majority do find beds)

So what's a pilgrim to do? Educate yourself about the different accommodation options. If you don't want to pre-book use websites like Gronze to know where the albergues that don't accept reservations are and how many beds they have. You may want to get an extra early start to make sure that you can secure a bed. If you decide to pre-book accommodation (which I recommend up to Pamplona during the busy months) know that booking.com and other sites don't have access to all beds/rooms available. It might take a little more work to send WhatsApp messages or emails to properties where you want to stay. Again, Gronze is a great resource for this.

Or you can try a different route. The Camino de Madrid, the Aragonés, and the Baztan all connect to the Camino Francés. Take a look here at the different route options.

Finally, try a different month. I have walked the Francés in the summer, starting in July, and had no problem with accommodations, though it was tighter after Sarria. Mostly I just arrived in town and found a bed. After Sarria I did book either the day before or even the same day for that night.

 

[Former member 104756]

Thank you @trecile That’s gréât information and succinct advice given many recent threads. On a personal note, as we plan to be on the Frances starting from the last days of October, those small coloured bars are a delight to see

 

[trecile]

@good_old_shoes has some good strategies in another thread:

For me, the easiest solution is not to arrive in a village with no beds left. Sounds funny, but it usually works.

How to achieve that? That's what I do:

a) Walk distances that allow me to still continue a bit further if necessary (I want to be able to add another 5-10km at the end of the day). So should there not be a bed in the town I wanted to stop in, I can still walk to the next one.

Since that's not always possible, other solutions are:

b) Stop midday or for a second breakfast in a town with a walk-in or "no reservations possible" albergue with high capacity / lots of accommodation. Ask myself, do I want to walk further today, or do I need a half/short/rest day? If I'm very tired I can just check into the albergue (first come - first served, so no problem if I arrive early). If I want to continue and walk a longer day,

c) Check that the next town is still within my preferred walking distance and that there are several albergues there, so that the likeliness of getting a bed there is high.

d) Check if shortly after that town (<5km), there's another albergue, just in case, or

e) If I want to be absolutely sure to have a bed in the village I intent to walk to, call and ask how busy they are and if possible make a reservation. This is a good solution especially if you want to walk a very long day and arrive late, if you know you'll be too exhausted to walk further to the next albergue/village, or if the village where you want to stop has only few beds and the next place is far away.

f) If all fails, walk into a bar, have a nice drink, find out where the next place with a bed is, and get a taxi there.

g) Sometimes when talking to the locals or hospitaleros of the places that are 'completo', beds suddenly appear from nowhere ;-)

h) bring a light foam mat and a decent sleeping bag. If there's only room on the floor of a sports gym or fire station or in the albergue garden / on their terrace ect., that will be helpful. Add a tarp or tent and you also have campsites as extra option for accommodation (there are a few official ones, with warm showers and all).

That has always worked for me so far.

There's lot of panic regarding beds. Personally I've always found place to sleep so far, and most of the time I do not make reservations.

Unpopular opinion, but for me it's mostly online hysteria, mainly created by people looking for bookable private rooms, places that will accept luggage service, people who are set on staying in a certain town/place, walking until exhaustion to places that are known to have a limited number of beds without plan b), ect.

Many will disagree with that statement, but after four times walking the Francés with not really witnessing the famous bed race, and more often than not finding a bed in the first albergue I walk into, I start to believe it's mainly a myth ;-)

I haven't walked in september so far, though, I have to say. Maybe that's the secret!

Overall, if you don't walk in april/may, and not in september, if you're fine with dormitorios or a mattress on the floor, you'll most likely have good chances of always finding a place to sleep without too much stress. June is a nice month to start walking for example.

I've had to sleep outside of an albergue once, but that was not because there were no beds. I'd found a sick kitten and most places would not let me in because of that. So that doesn't count, I'd say! I still was allowed by the owner of the albergue to put up my tent in the garden or sleep on the bench in front of the albergue, and had a nice dinner at that place. So it was still a good experience!

So. Keep in mind that sometimes you might need plan b-h) to find a bed, but usually there is one, and no need to panic. No need to run, no need to be afraid.

Happy planning and Buen Camino!

 

[JabbaPapa]

Increasingly, it's April to October.

And as to the final 100K, whether from Sarria or Tui/Vigo, increasingly the very large crowds are between May and September. It was even very crowded on those stretches during October last year, when I walked between Vigo and Santiago, then between Santiago and Sarria.

@trecile is right that in July and August in the largest portion of the Francès, between Logroño-ish and before O Cebreiro, crowds aren't so bad, and there are usually more beds than pilgrims needing them ; with the frequent exceptions at Burgos and León.

 

[Anamiri]

And they are both the Camino Francés!



As @Juanma says, the high (crowded) seasons of the first 700 km of the Camino Francés are in May and September, (and it seems increasingly in April), while the high season of the last 100 km after Sarria occurs in July and August. This is due to the large amounts of pilgrims who walk the last 100 km during their summer holidays, many of whom are part of school, church, or family groups. As @ivar points out on this thread, 35% of Compostelas are given to pilgrims who start in Sarria. That's 35% of all pilgrims on all routes. Meanwhile, in St Jean Pied de Port the most popular months to start are May and September.


(click to enlarge graphs)

View attachment 146116

View attachment 146117


To make matters worse, there aren't as many accommodations available in the first 100 km after SJPdP as there are in the Sarria - Santiago stretch. Which leads us to frantic pilgrims who can't find a bed during these months. (though the vast majority do find beds)

So what's a pilgrim to do? Educate yourself about the different accommodation options. If you don't want to pre-book use websites like Gronze to know where the albergues that don't accept reservations are and how many beds they have. You may want to get an extra early start to make sure that you can secure a bed. If you decide to pre-book accommodation (which I recommend up to Pamplona during the busy months) know that booking.com and other sites don't have access to all beds/rooms available. It might take a little more work to send WhatsApp messages or emails to properties where you want to stay. Again, Gronze is a great resource for this.

Or you can try a different route. The Camino de Madrid, the Aragonés, and the Baztan all connect to the Camino Francés. Take a look here at the different route options.

Finally, try a different month. I have walked the Francés in the summer, starting in July, and had no problem with accommodations, though it was tighter after Sarria. Mostly I just arrived in town and found a bed. After Sarria I did book either the day before or even the same day for that night.

On my first Camino I walked from SJPDP. I had checked online for numbers, (dont remember the site) and hadn't realised the difference between the overall, and the Sarria numbers. At that stage I didnt even know there was a Sarria piece. I didnt know about the large numbers walking only the last 100 kms.
Also it wasn't until I walked that I realised that many people in or close to the EU walk a week or so a year - so those numbers arent really accounted for until they reach SDC.
I chose 1 Sept because it seemed not to be too busy. Maybe that's why others do as well.
If you havent found this forum, its easy to be misled as to the actual numbers.
Little did I know that I'd be walking on one of the busiest days of the year.

 

[C clearly]

People also should take into account the huge number of travelers throughout Spain in the week leading up to Easter, and on other holidays that fall near the weekends. All accommodations fill up in popular towns. This often catches pilgrims by surprise.

 

[ficklefancyfree]

Thanks @trecile for the post and info.

Luckily for me (or unlucky) I will have to tackle the Frances week by week so I’ll just make sure I do it off season

 

[Bradypus]

Luckily for me (or unlucky) I will have to tackle the Frances week by week so I’ll just make sure I do it off season

I walked the Camino Frances in January this year. My fourth Camino Frances over a 33 year period. A more challenging journey than a peak season Camino in many ways but the quiet and solitude were exactly what I was hoping for. Like stepping back to my first Camino though the accommodation now is far superior. There are still routes and times for those who are daunted by the three-ring-circus of peak seasons on the Frances.

 

[lt56ny]

Thank you @trecile That’s gréât information and succinct advice given many recent threads. On a personal note, as we plan to be on the Frances starting from the last days of October, those small coloured bars are a delight to see

Having walked on the CF during November and December. I have noticed it is getting a little more crowded but seems more crowded because more and more albergues close the closer you get to the end of the year. None of the websites or apps are more than about 70% accurate in when an albergue isopen/closed. Not their faults everything is up to the whims of the owners. Last November/December and the closer I got to Santiago owners were telling me they were closing because there were so many pilgrims earlier in the year that they were just tired. I am an albergue person but in Galicia I often stay in private albergues so I can cook meals which is impossible in the Xuntas. Just call ahead the day before to see what the situation is going forward. Buen Camino. I think it is a great time to walk. Weather wise hope for the best and expect everything!!!!!

 

[Former member 104756]

I think it is a great time to walk. Weather wise hope for the best and expect everything!!!!!

Exactly! Thanks @lt56ny We are really looking forward it. I have a yearning to walk the Camino Frances again - last time was in 2013. That's why I love the graphs @trecile posted, confirming our thoughts that a late October start on the Frances will likely suit us well. Our plan is to start from Le Puy in mid September. Feeling very fortunate to have the time. We will just take it as it comes.

 

[MainelyStina]

I really want to thank @trecile for this post! As someone embarking on my first CF in a little over 100 days, it’s really easy to get unbelievably nervous and a bit disheartened reading some of the recent posts on the forum. When you’re new to all of this, it’s hard to know what to believe. Thanks to the good people of this forum I’ve received such amazing advice!

Just a few examples of how you’ve all helped (so far!): I moved my trip up to start the 3rd week of August rather than early in September. I’m starting from SJPP on a Monday to try to avoid any potential pitfalls of leaving on a weekend. I’m planning to stay off-stage as best I can. I’ve booked Borda in order to ease into things on the first day. I’m currently pre-booked through Pamplona. After that, it’ll be what it’ll be. I so appreciate everyone’s advice to take it as it comes. I don’t know if these are the right moves, but I surely hope so! I’m so unbelievably excited!

So - to everyone out there kind enough to share advice, provide guidance, tolerate the incessant questions from us newbies, set us straight when we get a bit anxious, and in general cheer us all on - just know how much that is appreciated!! Thank you!!

Cheers!

Stina

 

[C clearly]

When you’re new to all of this, it’s hard to know what to believe.

It sounds like you've done a good job of listening and sorting through the advice to get your Camino off to a good start. Buen Camino!

 

[dick bird]

My graph reading skills were never brilliant, so correct me if I am wrong, but it looks to me as if there were more pilgrims starting in 2019 from SJPdP than in 2022. This is not necessarily relevant to 2023 but it suggests a definite trend towards shorter pilgrimages as the number of compostelas issued was much higher in 2022. This also highlights the dangers of extrapolating too much from arrivals in Santiago.

 

[KiwiJohn]

I really want to thank @trecile for this post! As someone embarking on my first CF in a little over 100 days, it’s really easy to get unbelievably nervous and a bit disheartened reading some of the recent posts on the forum. When you’re new to all of this, it’s hard to know what to believe. Thanks to the good people of this forum I’ve received such amazing advice!

Just a few examples of how you’ve all helped (so far!): I moved my trip up to start the 3rd week of August rather than early in September. I’m starting from SJPP on a Monday to try to avoid any potential pitfalls of leaving on a weekend. I’m planning to stay off-stage as best I can. I’ve booked Borda in order to ease into things on the first day. I’m currently pre-booked through Pamplona. After that, it’ll be what it’ll be. I so appreciate everyone’s advice to take it as it comes. I don’t know if these are the right moves, but I surely hope so! I’m so unbelievably excited!

So - to everyone out there kind enough to share advice, provide guidance, tolerate the incessant questions from us newbies, set us straight when we get a bit anxious, and in general cheer us all on - just know how much that is appreciated!! Thank you!!

Cheers!

Stina

You'll probably be a couple of days ahead of me. I start my Camino on the 26th of August. Buen Camino!

 

[trecile]

My graph reading skills were never brilliant, so correct me if I am wrong, but it looks to me as if there were more pilgrims starting in 2019 from SJPdP than in 2022. This is not necessarily relevant to 2023 but it suggests a definite trend towards shorter pilgrimages as the number of compostelas issued was much higher in 2022.

It will be interesting to see how 2023 stacks up against other pre-Covid years. Some statistics that have come out if the pilgrim office in SJPdP seem to indicate that 2023 numbers have returned to pre-pandemic levels.

This also highlights the dangers of extrapolating too much from arrivals in Santiago

Exactly, which is why I started this thread!

 

[MainelyStina]

You'll probably be a couple of days ahead of me. I start my Camino on the 26th of August. Buen Camino!

You never know... I've got a slow(ish) Camino planned. Buen Camino! Enjoy!

 

[LindaH]

This year I started in SJPDP on 7 May and had pre-booked accommodation through to Pamplona. Every place I stayed in those first 4 days, except Orisson, had at least two empty beds despite being fully booked. People were not turning up and not cancelling their bookings!
After Pamplona I stayed between the major stages and had a lovely quiet walk and relaxing overnight stops in smaller, quieter places. I had not a single problem finding beds and saw little evidence of a ‘crowded’ Camino until Sarria. Even then, I enjoyed quiet solitary walks much of the time by starting my mornings in, for example, Gonzar instead of Portomarin, and taking every opportunity to walk the variants or complementario options rather than the main route.

 

[jennymaylee]

This year I started in SJPDP on 7 May and had pre-booked accommodation through to Pamplona. Every place I stayed in those first 4 days, except Orisson, had at least two empty beds despite being fully booked. People were not turning up and not cancelling their bookings!
After Pamplona I stayed between the major stages and had a lovely quiet walk and relaxing overnight stops in smaller, quieter places. I had not a single problem finding beds and saw little evidence of a ‘crowded’ Camino until Sarria. Even then, I enjoyed quiet solitary walks much of the time by starting my mornings in, for example, Gonzar instead of Portomarin, and taking every opportunity to walk the variants or complementario options rather than the main route.

How do you get information on the alternative complementario options you mention?

 

[trecile]

How do you get information on the alternative complementario options you mention?

They are usually on the different Camino apps, like Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim. Also shown on Gronze.com. They are also signposted.

 

[LindaH]

How do you get information on the alternative complementario options you mention?

They are often signposted along the way and also shown on the maps in online guidebooks (I used Wise Pilgrim).
The maps show the main route in one colour, eg, green, and the alternatives in another colour, eg, red.

 

[alwalker]

This year I started in SJPDP on 7 May and had pre-booked accommodation through to Pamplona. Every place I stayed in those first 4 days, except Orisson, had at least two empty beds despite being fully booked. People were not turning up and not cancelling their bookings!
After Pamplona I stayed between the major stages and had a lovely quiet walk and relaxing overnight stops in smaller, quieter places. I had not a single problem finding beds and saw little evidence of a ‘crowded’ Camino until Sarria. Even then, I enjoyed quiet solitary walks much of the time by starting my mornings in, for example, Gonzar instead of Portomarin, and taking every opportunity to walk the variants or complementario options rather than the main route.

Have you done the Norte?- and thoughts on this way?

 

[LindaH]

Have you done the Norte?- and thoughts on this way?

Not yet! Maybe in 2025? Would expect it to be quieter than the CF.

 

[Bradypus]

Not yet! Maybe in 2025? Would expect it to be quieter than the CF.

The pilgrim office stats for this year suggest there are 10x as many who walk at least the last 100km of the Frances than walk the Norte.

 

[trecile]

Not yet! Maybe in 2025? Would expect it to be quieter than the CF.

The Norte is quieter than the Francés, but there are far fewer low priced pilgrim albergues.

 

[VNwalking]

Or you can try a different route. The Camino de Madrid, the Aragonés, and the Baztan all connect to the Camino Francés.

As does the Vasco/Via de Bayona.

How do you get information on the alternative complementario options you mention?

Search here, read threads here, look at maps. Educate yourself. It's very enjoyable, not hard at all. It can e as simple as ust looking at the subforums, and following where curiosity takes you.

 

[KiwiJohn]

This year I started in SJPDP on 7 May and had pre-booked accommodation through to Pamplona. Every place I stayed in those first 4 days, except Orisson, had at least two empty beds despite being fully booked. People were not turning up and not cancelling their bookings!
After Pamplona I stayed between the major stages and had a lovely quiet walk and relaxing overnight stops in smaller, quieter places. I had not a single problem finding beds and saw little evidence of a ‘crowded’ Camino until Sarria. Even then, I enjoyed quiet solitary walks much of the time by starting my mornings in, for example, Gonzar instead of Portomarin, and taking every opportunity to walk the variants or complementario options rather than the main route.

Smart girl. I did the same thing, but in August/September!

 

[dick bird]

The Norte is quieter than the Francés, but there are far fewer low priced pilgrim albergues.

Not yet! Maybe in 2025? Would expect it to be quieter than the CF.

It is also, between Irún and Ribadeo, along the coast, a very pretty, in parts spectacular and popular coast. This means that in July and August you are competing for bed space with Spanish and overseas tourists, as well as some backpackers taking advantage of the albergue system (I shall say no more about that). Outside of these months, the hotels and pensions that normally cater for holidaymakers are still there so you have options for cheaper hotel accommodation where there is not an albergue. It is very doable, quieter is a relative term so you won´t lack for the company of fellow pilgrims.

 

[KiwiJohn]

I'm keen on doing the Camino del Norte in either June or September '25? Probably the former as I would like to experience a spring Camino with all the flowers etc.
Any advice?

 

[dick bird]

Only that

Any advice?

Only that June may be a little late for spring. Starting in September you should get the benefit of autumn without too much rain - but you can never tell with Galicia, and anyway you´re from New Zealand so all day rain is hardly a novelty. Lots of ripe figs though, and blackberries.

 

[trecile]

Starting in September you should get the benefit of autumn without too much rain

You can also get summer heat...

 

[JanosB]

I really want to thank @trecile for this post! As someone embarking on my first CF in a little over 100 days, it’s really easy to get unbelievably nervous and a bit disheartened reading some of the recent posts on the forum. When you’re new to all of this, it’s hard to know what to believe. Thanks to the good people of this forum I’ve received such amazing advice!

Just a few examples of how you’ve all helped (so far!): I moved my trip up to start the 3rd week of August rather than early in September. I’m starting from SJPP on a Monday to try to avoid any potential pitfalls of leaving on a weekend. I’m planning to stay off-stage as best I can. I’ve booked Borda in order to ease into things on the first day. I’m currently pre-booked through Pamplona. After that, it’ll be what it’ll be. I so appreciate everyone’s advice to take it as it comes. I don’t know if these are the right moves, but I surely hope so! I’m so unbelievably excited!

So - to everyone out there kind enough to share advice, provide guidance, tolerate the incessant questions from us newbies, set us straight when we get a bit anxious, and in general cheer us all on - just know how much that is appreciated!! Thank you!!

Cheers!

Stina

Hi Stina,
How did you get along with your plan? I'm curious because I have a very similar plan for this year.
Thx,
János

 

[Undermanager]

I've been walking from Montserrat, Barcelona since April 23rd. It's a real shocker from Portomarin onwards compared to anywhere else - school parties, tour groups, guided groups (LoL) and just lots and lots of people shoulder to shoulder. However, yesterday, I walked into the wonderful albergue in Morgade about 1pm and got a bed. Today, I stopped at the same time in the Albergue de Peregrinos do Hospital da Cruz and again, no problems getting a bed.Tomorrow I have my own room booked in a hostel in Melide as it's a near 30kms day - I can relax and turn up late afternoon. It means Santiago is within striking distance and I can also just start the far more interesting Finisterra loop.

This 100kms section - I'll do it just to finish the walk, but it's busy, tedious, by a road a lot of the time, loud (traffic plus people talking loudly) and isn't going to be done again by me, ever. I'd suggest finishing the camino at Portomarin, or finishing there, getting a bus and going to another camino.

 

[Undermanager]

On the above municipal Albergue de Peregrinos do Hospital da Cruz about 12kms past Portomarin, there are 32 beds in this completely refurbished and immaculate albergue, with showers, kitchen etc, €10 for the night. Just four are taken this evening!! So much for no beds on this stretch. There are 2 bars within a few hundred meters, one has been open all evening for pizza, burgers and anything else you fancy.

It's a lovely place to stay and recommended, even if this camino stretch is utter cr**.

 

[Luka]

The Dutch pilgrims association (running the albergue in Roncesvalles) just published this graph over the year 2023. It needs a bit of explanation:

These are all periods of 2 weeks (the normal period to work there as hospitalero/a), showing the total number of nights in that period (so you would have to divide every number by 14 to know the average numbers per day).

Peak periods
4 - 5: April, 21 - May, 19
14: September, 8 - 22

Lower summer season
8 - 10: June, 16 - July, 28

 

[JanosB]

View attachment 178999
The Dutch pilgrims association (running the albergue in Roncesvalles) just published this graph over the year 2023. It needs a bit of explanation:

These are all periods of 2 weeks (the normal period to work there as hospitalero/a), showing the total number of nights in that period (so you would have to divide every number by 14 to know the average numbers per day).

Peak periods
4 - 5: April, 21 - May, 19
14: September, 8 - 22

Lower summer season
8 - 10: June, 16 - July, 28

Does it mean that in low season you had 130-150 pilgrim at each night in Roncesvalles albergue? It is still quite a number .
I think you had a different experience on your Sanabrés camino.

 

[Luka]

Does it mean that in low season you had 130-150 pilgrim at each night in Roncesvalles albergue? It is still quite a number .
I think you had a different experience on your Sanabrés camino.

Sure! It is still the Francés, 130 - 150 pigrims is nothing in Roncesvalles

 

[JanosB]

Sure! It is still the Francés, 130 - 150 pigrims is nothing in Roncesvalles

Then I'd rather go to the Sanabrés.