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Cáceres

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SabineP

Camino = Gratitude + Compassion.
Year of past OR future Camino
some and then more. see my signature.
This Ancient City Should Be Your First Stop in Spain Post-Pandemic
While other destinations have been hibernating through the pandemic, this medieval jewel west of Madrid has been quietly glowing up.
Read in The Daily Beast: https://apple.news/AuvHw6DIbSI6zhl23gx8gbg


Unfortunately behind a paywall but I can imagine the raving words about this wonderful town.
Far away from everything to keep it being overcrowded with tourists.
It was our main stay when we visited Extremadura.
 
Last edited:

lt56ny

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF(2012) Le Puy/CF (2015) Portugues (2017) Norte (2018) CF (2019) VDLP?
I was able to read the whole article. I will hopefully be walking the VDLP in October. Was going to take a rest day in Merida. What to do about this town. What a dilemma! Probably walk to Valdesalor. Sleep there get up early and take the short 12k to the city. Then decide.
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Unfortunately behind a paywall

Try this:


And I can’t think of @Sabiine and Cáceres without remembering her terrific restaurant recommendation — unlike virtually every other restaurant in every other plaza mayor in Spain, this one is FABULOUS. http://www.laminervacaceres.com/
 

Raggy

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
I was able to access the article without encountering a Paywall. To be honest, I don't think this is a very on-point article for this forum. It seems to be geared toward well-heeled tourists seeking short excursions from Madrid.

Highlights of the article -

Some of the most exciting news in Spanish travel for 2021 is out of Cáceres, a sleepy medieval city located 180 miles west of Madrid.
- Famous for acorn-fed ham and sausages
- The city received its architectural heritage and wealth from Romans, Jews, Moors, and Spanish colonialists but was left behind after the 17th century - allowing the medieval city center to remain intact. In 1967UNESCO declared it the third most significant monumental ensemble on the continent after Prague and Talinn.
- Easy to reach from Madrid, stunning churches, tasty tapas, hotels for all budgets, less in-your-face touristy than Toledo and Segovia
- New developments include a top class hotel, a museum expansion, revamped official tours and a gourmet restaurant by a famous restaurateur
>> Helga Alvear Contemporary Art Museum has had €10 million thrown at it with 54,000 square feet added to the existing 32,000. Opening sometime in 2021
>> New tours include. “Jewish Cáceres” / “Muslim Cáceres,” . “Roman Cáceres,”
>> Caceres existing design hotel - Atrio - with two star Michelin kitchen - will be joined by another - Casa Palacio Paredes Saavedra, where guests will pay upwards of €800 a night when it opens in the second half of 2021
>> The Michelin restaurant will be joined by an informal Extremaduran asador (grill restaurant)
 
Year of past OR future Camino
CF- Finisterre-Muxia 03/17; Camino SK 10/17; Norte 03/18; Ingles 11/18; Augusta 03/19

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
To be honest, I don't think this is a very on-point article for this forum.

Come on, @Raggy, you don’t think pilgrims will be rushing to reserve a room in the new hotel Casa Palacio Paredes Saavedra?

“The accommodations are going to be enormous. One of the suites has a 215-square-foot bathroom—that, to me, is true luxury.” Evidently Tuñón Arquitectos has had a busy year. In addition to the Helga Alvear, they’re undertaking the gut renovation and redesign of this 16th-century mansion. When it’s finished, guests paying upwards of €800 a night will be able to enjoy amenities like his-and-hers showers, heated floors, butler service, and deep-sink tubs cut from single slabs of Italian marble. There are plans to turn the original subterranean cistern into a candlelit sauna and hammam.


Don’t you think every pilgrim deserves to soak in a deep-sink tub cut from a single slab of Italian marble at least once on a camino?!
 
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Year of past OR future Camino
Frances ('10), Portugues ('11), Promitivo ('13), VdlP ('14), Ingles ('16), Torres ('17), Litoral '19
I was able to read the whole article. I will hopefully be walking the VDLP in October. Was going to take a rest day in Merida. What to do about this town. What a dilemma! Probably walk to Valdesalor. Sleep there get up early and take the short 12k to the city. Then decide.
That is what we did. By stopping a night in Valdesalor we were able to arrive in Caceres early and had the best part of a day to sightsee. It is indeed a wonderful city.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I have a particular soft spot in my heart for Cáceres. On my first Vdlp, in 2009, I had to stop here because of what turned out to be tarsal tunnel (the foot equivalent of carpal tunnel). I thought I would stay for a few days of rest to see if things got better. They didn’t and I called it quits. But those days there were really nice. For one thing, and this was in the day of internet cafés and before the prevalence of smart phones, there was a mobile internet unit sitting right in the Plaza Mayor trying to encourage townsfolk to sign up and get connected. No one was using it, so I became good buddies with the three or so young techies who let me use one of the terminals every day for as long as I wanted.

Even if you have to hobble, Cáceres is a gorgeous city — its Renaissance core rivals what you’ll see in Tuscany. Though its casco histórico is relatively uninhabited these days, many of the buildings are now used by government agencies, so it is still a real place with more than just tourists.
 

lt56ny

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF(2012) Le Puy/CF (2015) Portugues (2017) Norte (2018) CF (2019) VDLP?
That is what we did. By stopping a night in Valdesalor we were able to arrive in Caceres early and had the best part of a day to sightsee. It is indeed a wonderful city.
What I would give to be in Sevilla now in front of the Cathedral at about 7:00AM and about to take my first step north to Santiago.
 

lt56ny

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF(2012) Le Puy/CF (2015) Portugues (2017) Norte (2018) CF (2019) VDLP?
Try this:


And I can’t think of @Sabiine and Cáceres without remembering her terrific restaurant recommendation — unlike virtually every other restaurant in every other plaza mayor in Spain, this one is FABULOUS. http://www.laminervacaceres.com/
When I clicked on the original link I was taken directly to the Daily Beast story. I was just about to post the link but you have already done it. Let me count the ways peregrina2000 is again such a help and pleasure to have as a forum friend. Happy New Year.
 
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Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances (2015); Aragones-Frances (2016); VdlP-Sanabres (2017); Madrid-Frances-Invierno (2019)Levante
I walked through Caceres to Casar de Caceres (23 km day) with my mind on the 32 km day to follow if, as I expected, there would be nowhere to stay at the Embalse. I enjoyed the walk but I was moving through, not stopping. When I am on camino, whatever my route, I point myself towards Santiago and rarely deviate from the route. I enjoyed passing through Caceres. With the walls and the ancient buildings, there was a continuity of historic architecture which I have found rare in other Spanish cities that I have visited.
 

SabineP

Camino = Gratitude + Compassion.
Year of past OR future Camino
some and then more. see my signature.
I have a particular soft spot in my heart for Cáceres. On my first Vdlp, in 2009, I had to stop here because of what turned out to be tarsal tunnel (the foot equivalent of carpal tunnel). I thought I would stay for a few days of rest to see if things got better. They didn’t and I called it quits. But those days there were really nice. For one thing, and this was in the day of internet cafés and before the prevalence of smart phones, there was a mobile internet unit sitting right in the Plaza Mayor trying to encourage townsfolk to sign up and get connected. No one was using it, so I became good buddies with the three or so young techies who let me use one of the terminals every day for as long as I wanted.

Even if you have to hobble, Cáceres is a gorgeous city — its Renaissance core rivals what you’ll see in Tuscany. Though its casco histórico is relatively uninhabited these days, many of the buildings are now used by government agencies, so it is still a real place with more than just tourists.


El Corral de las Cigueñas in el casco historico! Gorgeous surroundings.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2005,2008,2010,2015.camino Portuguese 2007 .primativo2012.camino Norte 2009.sjpdp to finisterre and muxia 2007. Le Puy to jpdp 2006. Via francigena vercelli to Lucca 2014. Lucca to Rome 2016.
Come on, @Raggy, you don’t think pilgrims will be rushing to reserve a room in the new hotel Casa Palacio Paredes Saavedra?

“The accommodations are going to be enormous. One of the suites has a 215-square-foot bathroom—that, to me, is true luxury.” Evidently Tuñón Arquitectos has had a busy year. In addition to the Helga Alvear, they’re undertaking the gut renovation and redesign of this 16th-century mansion. When it’s finished, guests paying upwards of €800 a night will be able to enjoy amenities like his-and-hers showers, heated floors, butler service, and deep-sink tubs cut from single slabs of Italian marble. There are plans to turn the original subterranean cistern into a candlelit sauna and hammam.

Don’t you think every pilgrim deserves to soak in a deep-sink tub cut from a single slab of Italian marble at least once on a camino?!
Hah
A snip at €800 surely!!
A beautiful city
Right now, all I can remember is sitting in the square and looking at those beautiful buildings opposite
Oh to be sitting there at this moment in time!!
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Plan on walking the Camino Frances May 2019, God willing
This Ancient City Should Be Your First Stop in Spain Post-Pandemic
While other destinations have been hibernating through the pandemic, this medieval jewel west of Madrid has been quietly glowing up.
Read in The Daily Beast: https://apple.news/AuvHw6DIbSI6zhl23gx8gbg
Thank you for this article! We were in Caceres in 2016. spent 2 nights - rained most of the time! Our accommodations were not of the type mentioned in the article - lol. We did have reservations for a very nice dinner - but it was pouring so hard we bought snacks and dined in our room! Ahh, the memories this brought back of a fantastic 3-month trip throughout the country -- which is why we returned to walk the Camino.
 

Sandra Riordan

Hobart Australia
Year of past OR future Camino
Francis 2015, Portuguese 2016, El Norte 2017 & VDLP 2019.
I was able to read the whole article. I will hopefully be walking the VDLP in October. Was going to take a rest day in Merida. What to do about this town. What a dilemma! Probably walk to Valdesalor. Sleep there get up early and take the short 12k to the city. Then decide.
I was able to read the whole article. I will hopefully be walking the VDLP in October. Was going to take a rest day in Merida. What to do about this town. What a dilemma! Probably walk to Valdesalor. Sleep there get up early and take the short 12k to the city. Then decide.
When walking the VDLP we had a rest day in Merida which was a great choice. But we did a short 12km day into and 12kms out of Caceres so we could have a good look around.
 
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lt56ny

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF(2012) Le Puy/CF (2015) Portugues (2017) Norte (2018) CF (2019) VDLP?
And as every Pilgrim 'no it are worth flashing your credentials and asking for a discount ;)
Definitely Tinka never hurts looking for that Pilgrim discount. You are someone who knows all things Camino. Is it an urban legend that at one time there were a few pilgrim discounts at the Parador in Santiago?I remember someone telling me that in 2012 or so. I know it is not the lunch. I have gotten a ticket twice for the lunch at the Parador. Two pilgrimages ago I was invited by a Pilgrim I had met just 2 days earlier to eat with him and 8 others in the main dining room at the Parador. he spared no expense. I had our wonderful waiter order for me and my meal was amazing. If that isn't a pilgrim angel I don't know what the definition of an angel is!!!
 

lt56ny

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF(2012) Le Puy/CF (2015) Portugues (2017) Norte (2018) CF (2019) VDLP?
When walking the VDLP we had a rest day in Merida which was a great choice. But we did a short 12km day into and 12kms out of Caceres so we could have a good look around.
You are the second person who recommended I go this route. It looks like as soon as I get there that is what I will do! Thanks and Happy New Year.
 

trecile

Camino Addict
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
Definitely Tinka never hurts looking for that Pilgrim discount. You are someone who knows all things Camino. Is it an urban legend that at one time there were a few pilgrim discounts at the Parador in Santiago?I remember someone telling me that in 2012 or so. I know it is not the lunch. I have gotten a ticket twice for the lunch at the Parador. Two pilgrimages ago I was invited by a Pilgrim I had met just 2 days earlier to eat with him and 8 others in the main dining room at the Parador. he spared no expense. I had our wonderful waiter order for me and my meal was amazing. If that isn't a pilgrim angel I don't know what the definition of an angel is!!!

I'm pretty sure that you can still get a room discount at the Parador in Santiago. I'm not sure if they have discounted meals too. When I stayed at the Parador in Vilalba on the Norte in 2018 they offered a pilgrim's rate for the room, and a pilgrim menu in the restaurant.
You can also join the Parador Amigos program for discounts.
 
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lt56ny

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF(2012) Le Puy/CF (2015) Portugues (2017) Norte (2018) CF (2019) VDLP?
I'm pretty sure that you can still get a room discount at the Parador in Santiago. I'm not sure if they have discounted meals too. When I stayed at the Parador in Vilalba on the Norte in 2018 they offered a pilgrim's rate for the room, and a pilgrim menu in the restaurant.
You can also join the Parador Amigos program for discounts.
That sounds great but when I walk even when I get to Santiago I keep things really simple. In Santiago I try to stay in one of the Pilgrim rooms at San Martin Pinario. Thanks
 

P Rat

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino VDLP/Sanábres April 2019
Camino Mozárabe when we can again...(2021?)
I was able to read the whole article. I will hopefully be walking the VDLP in October. Was going to take a rest day in Merida. What to do about this town. What a dilemma! Probably walk to Valdesalor. Sleep there get up early and take the short 12k to the city. Then decide.
that is a good plan It56ny. Both cities are worth the effort to spend some time in, you won't regret.
 
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4 Eyes

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF from SJPP 14, VDLP from Seville 15, DN&P from Irun 16, Portuguese from Lisbon 17, CF from SJPP 18
Both Merida and Caceres are each worth at least a full day. It's also worth spending an hour or so up at the Roman reservoir looking at the exhibits on the way out from Merida. The reservoir was so well built it remains in use today.

Merida is full of Roman ruins in good shape, with artifacts. I did not come across many tourists, only a school group and a couple of pilgrims. I learned there at the Roman amphitheater for the first time that there were many different types of gladiators, each with a different kind of armor and weapons. They looked like nothing I imagined, certainly not like any movie depiction of them. They looked more fantastic than any sci fi characters. This knowledge came in handy later when I happened to be in Riolobos, a small village on the VDLP, on what I think was their Saint's feast day. The inhabitants there consider themselves direct descendants of the Romans. They therefore reenacted Roman things. There was a gladiators' contest in the park, with a dozen or so contestants. They were all dressed up as gladiators, in authentic gladiator costumes, just as depicted in the amphitheater in Merida. It was a truly fantastic sight. They engaged in half real combat using gladiator weapons, such as a hook and a net. They were so into it that a few suffered minor injuries drawing blood. There were several rounds. The event was well attended. All the locals in attendance were dressed in Roman costumes. They all knew each other. There was no tourist. It seemed I was the only non-local person in attendance. I chanced upon it because I wanted to walk around to see the village after my pilgrim chores were done. My fellow pilgrims did not attend but stayed in the hostel. After the final round when the champion was declared, he was hoisted by other men on their shoulders and there was a parade. Then there was a feast. I would not have understood the re-enactment so well had I not visited the Roman amphitheater in Merida and studied all the exhibits. What an experience!

Carceres is also memorable. While there I was out early in the morning to sightsee. I walked by the bishop's palace (Cáceres Episcopal Palace) which is not open to visitors. The gate was open so I tried to peek in. The bishop's personal secretary, who was there waiting for the bishop to come out to a car waiting to take him to some business, smiled and spoke to me. When he confirmed my pilgrim status, he allowed me to go inside the palace to take a quick look around. I got done before the bishop came out. After that, walking around the old town, visiting historical sights and museums, and engaging with locals completed the experience.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
2012 Lemovicensis + Francés;
2016 Podiensis + CdN + Fisterra;
2018 VdlP + Sanabrés + Muxia/Fisterra
Just FYI:
The cathedral of Cáceres is a so called co-cathdral because the diocesis there has two seats: Coria and Cáceres. Coria is located about 50 km NNW of Cáceres and isn‘t passed by the camino. Historically Coria is the main seat but Cáceres now is the provincial capital. May be that‘s why it earns a cathedral too. 😉


Ultreia
 

Grousedoctor

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
2021
When in Cáceres, don’t miss the opportunity to try the Torta del Casar! If it’s not the best cheese in the world, it’s right up near the top of the list. After a long day of cycling, I enjoyed a round of this cheese at a sidewalk cafe on the main plaza. A most enjoyable medieval city to walk around after a day on the Camino!

EAE3384D-AB9D-4C9C-8611-1806F2127303.jpeg
 

henrythedog

Loved and fed by David
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances 2017, 2018, 2019, Ingles 2018, (Madrid 2019 partial - retired hurt!) (more planned)
What I would give to be in Sevilla now in front of the Cathedral at about 7:00AM and about to take my first step north to Santiago.
If I were in front of the cathedral in Sevilla right now I’d be taking my first steps to the Bodega Santa Cruz, Las Tres Columnas.
 
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lt56ny

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF(2012) Le Puy/CF (2015) Portugues (2017) Norte (2018) CF (2019) VDLP?
If I were in front of the cathedral in Sevilla right now I’d be taking my first steps to the Bodega Santa Cruz, Las Tres Columnas.
I checked this restaurant out. I will be spending 2 days in Sevilla before I go and I will definitely go buy for a few tapas maybe a few more!
 

dick bird

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Plata, Ingles, Madrid, Norte, Primitivo, Invierno, Aragones, Olvidado, Chemin D'Arles
I was able to read the whole article. I will hopefully be walking the VDLP in October. Was going to take a rest day in Merida. What to do about this town. What a dilemma! Probably walk to Valdesalor. Sleep there get up early and take the short 12k to the city. Then decide.
I was sick in Mérida, in fact I fainted in the lobby of the Parador hotel, but everyone else said it was wonderful. I was OK by the time we got to Cáceres, which is also a lovely city. Why not take a rest day in both? The photo is of Cáceres in 2012.
 

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nathanael

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances, Norte, Plata,
I stayed 3 days here waiting for a Camino companion. It is a great and facility town great eating laces.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
2002, Toulouse/Aragon 2005, Cami S Jaume/Aragon 2007/9, Mont Saint Michel/Norte/Vadiniense 2011, Norte/Primitivo 2013, Norte/Primitivo 2014. Norte 2015, Cami S Jaume/Castellano-Aragonese 2016
And as every Pilgrim 'no it are worth flashing your credentials and asking for a discount ;)
I have done this at a few swishy places on off-piste Caminos and have had a few astonishing discounts (one place, which I will not name for fear that pilgrim buses may swarm them, gave me a 120e suite for 54e, and threw in a fruitbasket and a bottle of cava).
 

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