LIVE from the Camino CF trip report

[MARSKA]

Hello fellow peregrinos! I have had trouble figuring out how to post using the app which is why it has taken so long.

First let me say that almost ALL of the advice I received on this forum has been right-on. I am very grateful to each and every person who has responded patiently to my questions. Try not to reserve so you can respond easily to the day and the people, take ( a lot) less stuff, be ready for the unexpected, be humble and kind. Do what you need to do to take care of yourself and be willing to help others.

Ok - the story thus far...
Shortly after arriving in Madrid, and while awaiting my flight to Pamplona a woman walked up to me and asked if I was walking the Camino (I had the shell attached to my pack). I said yes and was invited to join a group of 4 other pilgrims waiting for the same flight to Pamplona. I was beyond delighted to have met others so quickly!

After arriving in Pamplona we shared a taxi to downtown and exchanged contact info. One person had a hotel in Pamplona very near mine and she also had reservations at "my" Albergue in St. Jean for the same night I was staying. We had dinner together in Irun and met after breakfast to walk to the bus station. Arriving in St Jean we walked together to the Albergue and checked in. We met others at the communal dinner that evening and for the past 2 weeks i have walked and shared Albergues off and on with 4 of the people I met at dinnernand the folks I met the airporrt, along with others.

It was raining hard on the walk to Orrisson and it was very slippery. I decided to join a few others for a shared taxi ride from Orisson to Roncesvalles where I stayed in the 3rd floor dormitory which was very nice and comfy. Beautiful area.

4 women ( Crotian, Dutch, and 2 North Americans ) who met at the airport in Madrid, started walking to Zubiri the next morning.

By mid-morning I was far behind the others. I could not match the pace on the climbs and really slowed as it became hotter and hotter. The descent into Zubiri was very , very difficult. I did not have a reservation, so I checked into the first place available. I shared a 4 bedroom apt with a French group. I also met a woman from Canada while soaking my feet in the river. It was lovely!!! We've been walking together off and on since.

The early mornings have been pleasant, but by 11 the heat is problematic for me and by noon it's intolerable (especially with no shade). So, I've been starting my trek between 5:45 and 6:15, walking until noon most days thus far. Everyone seems to be walking by 6:00, probably due to the heat later in the day. No rain so far other than the first day.

I think our Spanish hosts are suffering from Pilgrim fatigue. With only a very few exceptions the hospital riots have been frazzled, stressed, and not very welcoming. I can understand - there are SO MANY of us! Selfishly, I wish there were fewer Pilgrims too - I almost feel as though I'm on the interstate... hearing the click-click-click behind me, watching the person pass me, and then hearing the next click-click-click and watching the next one pass by with long, quick strides.

Today was my longest day at 24km. I NEVER thought I could walk so far! And I could have done a few more KM's if there was shade along the route and/ or it was cooler. In Boadilla tonight with a wonderful group of pilgrims! Carrion tomorrow or maybe a little further. I'll post more in a few days.

 

[J Willhaus]

Great to hear from you! It is a long stretch after Carrion. I wouldn't want to walk that 16 km in the heat so do take care and bring extra water!

 

[naplesdon]

I love Eduardo's place in Boadilla. There are some good stops before you get to Carrion. It is not a race, enjoy.

 

[dbier]

Hello fellow peregrinos! ...

I think our Spanish hosts are suffering from Pilgrim fatigue. With only a very few exceptions the hospital riots have been frazzled, stressed, and not very welcoming. I can understand - there are SO MANY of us! Selfishly, I wish there were fewer Pilgrims too - I almost feel as though I'm on the interstate... hearing the click-click-click behind me, watching the person pass me, and then hearing the next click-click-click and watching the next one pass by with long, quick strides.

I did get a chuckle out of Marska's phone rendering "hospitaleros" as "hospital riots. " Had it been a human mistake, I would have referred to that as a "Freudian slip." And I suspect that the hospitaleros might agree....

 

[C clearly]

Great to hear from you, and that you are finding your own way to walk your Camino! I hope the weather cools down soon.

(Regarding the forum posting, you don't need to use the app. Just use your internet app/browser to find the forum in its regular format, sign in again, and post normally. Stick the site icon on your Home screen for easy access.)

Buen camino!

 

[CWBuff]

Great to hear that so many things indeed went well for you and you are quite adequately adapting to some challenges! Way to go Peregrina!!!
That said...

.... - there are SO MANY of us! Selfishly, I wish there were fewer Pilgrims too - I almost feel as though I'm on the interstate...

Yes... like it or not you ARE "one of them"

Good luck - enjoy the walk! Buen Camino

 

[VintageCowgirl]

I stayed at Boadilla a few nights ago. Nice to have the pool.

Its a tough Camino with the heat and so many pilgrims and bed shortages. I know several people who had to stop due to health reasons- allergies, asthma, lung issues. Lots of tractors kicking up dust. One pilgrim quit due to the stress of finding a bed. I’ve had to bus and taxi 3 times now to the next town to find a place to sleep. Lucky you haven’t run into that.

 

[klimmo]

Ahh great to hear things are working out for you! And way to go on the 24km, you are stronger than you knew.
Just keep ticking along.
And keep the updates coming, enjoyed that.
buen camino

 

[VNwalking]

So good to know you're doing well in spite of heat and the many pilgrims. In your shoes I'd stop in Villalcázar de Sirga. It's a bit shorter and the hoardes will be going to Carrion. You can walk through Carrion to either Calzadilla de la Cueza or Ledigos.

Most people will be following the guidebooks and staying in Carrion/Sahagun/El Burgo Ranero, and there are smaller alternatives before and after all those places - and far nicer alternative ways to get there off the busy roadside sends after Fromista and between Sahagun and Reliegos.

Buen onward camino, peregrina!

hospital riots

The best spillchick error ever!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

I am pleased to see that you are creating your own special memories , may you create lots of them.

 

[bullingtonce]

Hello fellow peregrinos! I have had trouble figuring out how to post using the app which is why it has taken so long.

First let me say that almost ALL of the advice I received on this forum has been right-on. I am very grateful to each and every person who has responded patiently to my questions. Try not to reserve so you can respond easily to the day and the people, take ( a lot) less stuff, be ready for the unexpected, be humble and kind. Do what you need to do to take care of yourself and be willing to help others.

Ok - the story thus far...
Shortly after arriving in Madrid, and while awaiting my flight to Pamplona a woman walked up to me and asked if I was walking the Camino (I had the shell attached to my pack). I said yes and was invited to join a group of 4 other pilgrims waiting for the same flight to Pamplona. I was beyond delighted to have met others so quickly!

After arriving in Pamplona we shared a taxi to downtown and exchanged contact info. One person had a hotel in Pamplona very near mine and she also had reservations at "my" Albergue in St. Jean for the same night I was staying. We had dinner together in Irun and met after breakfast to walk to the bus station. Arriving in St Jean we walked together to the Albergue and checked in. We met others at the communal dinner that evening and for the past 2 weeks i have walked and shared Albergues off and on with 4 of the people I met at dinnernand the folks I met the airporrt, along with others.

It was raining hard on the walk to Orrisson and it was very slippery. I decided to join a few others for a shared taxi ride from Orisson to Roncesvalles where I stayed in the 3rd floor dormitory which was very nice and comfy. Beautiful area.

4 women ( Crotian, Dutch, and 2 North Americans ) who met at the airport in Madrid, started walking to Zubiri the next morning.

By mid-morning I was far behind the others. I could not match the pace on the climbs and really slowed as it became hotter and hotter. The descent into Zubiri was very , very difficult. I did not have a reservation, so I checked into the first place available. I shared a 4 bedroom apt with a French group. I also met a woman from Canada while soaking my feet in the river. It was lovely!!! We've been walking together off and on since.

The early mornings have been pleasant, but by 11 the heat is problematic for me and by noon it's intolerable (especially with no shade). So, I've been starting my trek between 5:45 and 6:15, walking until noon most days thus far. Everyone seems to be walking by 6:00, probably due to the heat later in the day. No rain so far other than the first day.

I think our Spanish hosts are suffering from Pilgrim fatigue. With only a very few exceptions the hospital riots have been frazzled, stressed, and not very welcoming. I can understand - there are SO MANY of us! Selfishly, I wish there were fewer Pilgrims too - I almost feel as though I'm on the interstate... hearing the click-click-click behind me, watching the person pass me, and then hearing the next click-click-click and watching the next one pass by with long, quick strides.

Today was my longest day at 24km. I NEVER thought I could walk so far! And I could have done a few more KM's if there was shade along the route and/ or it was cooler. In Boadilla tonight with a wonderful group of pilgrims! Carrion tomorrow or maybe a little further. I'll post more in a few days.

I admire you so much for you ability, your willingness to so quickly adjust to each challenge as it surfaces and especially so much of your focus being on others rather than yourself. Keep plugging away.

 

[OK20090]

Hello fellow peregrinos! I have had trouble figuring out how to post using the app which is why it has taken so long.

First let me say that almost ALL of the advice I received on this forum has been right-on. I am very grateful to each and every person who has responded patiently to my questions. Try not to reserve so you can respond easily to the day and the people, take ( a lot) less stuff, be ready for the unexpected, be humble and kind. Do what you need to do to take care of yourself and be willing to help others.

Ok - the story thus far...
Shortly after arriving in Madrid, and while awaiting my flight to Pamplona a woman walked up to me and asked if I was walking the Camino (I had the shell attached to my pack). I said yes and was invited to join a group of 4 other pilgrims waiting for the same flight to Pamplona. I was beyond delighted to have met others so quickly!

After arriving in Pamplona we shared a taxi to downtown and exchanged contact info. One person had a hotel in Pamplona very near mine and she also had reservations at "my" Albergue in St. Jean for the same night I was staying. We had dinner together in Irun and met after breakfast to walk to the bus station. Arriving in St Jean we walked together to the Albergue and checked in. We met others at the communal dinner that evening and for the past 2 weeks i have walked and shared Albergues off and on with 4 of the people I met at dinnernand the folks I met the airporrt, along with others.

It was raining hard on the walk to Orrisson and it was very slippery. I decided to join a few others for a shared taxi ride from Orisson to Roncesvalles where I stayed in the 3rd floor dormitory which was very nice and comfy. Beautiful area.

4 women ( Crotian, Dutch, and 2 North Americans ) who met at the airport in Madrid, started walking to Zubiri the next morning.

By mid-morning I was far behind the others. I could not match the pace on the climbs and really slowed as it became hotter and hotter. The descent into Zubiri was very , very difficult. I did not have a reservation, so I checked into the first place available. I shared a 4 bedroom apt with a French group. I also met a woman from Canada while soaking my feet in the river. It was lovely!!! We've been walking together off and on since.

The early mornings have been pleasant, but by 11 the heat is problematic for me and by noon it's intolerable (especially with no shade). So, I've been starting my trek between 5:45 and 6:15, walking until noon most days thus far. Everyone seems to be walking by 6:00, probably due to the heat later in the day. No rain so far other than the first day.

I think our Spanish hosts are suffering from Pilgrim fatigue. With only a very few exceptions the hospital riots have been frazzled, stressed, and not very welcoming. I can understand - there are SO MANY of us! Selfishly, I wish there were fewer Pilgrims too - I almost feel as though I'm on the interstate... hearing the click-click-click behind me, watching the person pass me, and then hearing the next click-click-click and watching the next one pass by with long, quick strides.

Today was my longest day at 24km. I NEVER thought I could walk so far! And I could have done a few more KM's if there was shade along the route and/ or it was cooler. In Boadilla tonight with a wonderful group of pilgrims! Carrion tomorrow or maybe a little further. I'll post more in a few days.

Marsha- thank you for sharing your experience thus far. Please keep posting. My husband and I are walking our first Camino mid April. I’m hoping the crowds won’t be too bad, but it sounds busy right now. Any advice about what not to pack would be appreciated. happy trails

 

[MARSKA]

Carrion to Ledigos
The reports of no shade and no services is not accurate. There actually is quite a lot of shade almost the entire way. There is a food truck about 6 or 7km from Carrion and a rest area with a man made shelter, trees, and a potable water fountain about 5km beyond the food truck.
Off to Sahagun tomorrow! Buen Camino!

So good to know you're doing well in spite of heat and the many pilgrims. In your shoes I'd stop in Villalcázar de Sirga. It's a bit shorter and the hoardes will be going to Carrion. You can walk through Carrion to either Calzadilla de la Cueza or Ledigos.

Most people will be following the guidebooks and staying in Carrion/Sahagun/El Burgo Ranero, and there are smaller alternatives before and after all those places - and far nicer alternative ways to get there off the busy roadside sends after Fromista and between Sahagun and Reliegos.

Buen onward camino, peregrina!


The best spillchick error ever!

 

[MARSKA]

Carrion to Ledigos
The reports of no shade and no services is not accurate. There actually is quite a lot of shade almost the entire way. There is a food truck about 6 or 7km from Carrion and a rest area with a man made shelter, trees, and a potable water fountain about 5km beyond the food truck.
Off to Sahagun tomorrow! Buen Camino!

Also the track is NOT directly on the road but is a good distance away.

 

[NicP]

Glad you’re having fun…. It’s super useful for me to hear what it’s like on the CF at this time of of year…. I’m currently thinking about the timing of my next camino, your descriptions are great!

 

[VNwalking]

Also the track is NOT directly on the road but is a good distance away.

Yes. That stretch is not near the paved road except at the very beginning. Unlike the main route between Fromista and Villalcázar de Sirga;:and Sahagun and Mansilla de Las Mulas. In both cases there are much more pleasant alternatives.

Buen camino - I hope the weather is cooling down, @MARSKA !

 

[MARSKA]

After a lovely stay at the Maris monestary in Sahagun, I left this morning for El Burgos. After exiting the town I walked for about 45 minutes on the Camino which was situated directly adjacent to the busy highway. Not fun! It was still dark at 7am and the car headlights flashed in my eyes almost constantly. Finally I came to the "split". I randomly chose the main route to the left and was pleasantly surprised to find the path wandered along a small, infrequently used asphalt road. The path was lined with many medium-size trees which provided a great deal of shade almost all the way to El Burgo Ranero.

 

[trecile]

The path was lined with many medium-size trees which provided a great deal of shade almost all the way to El Burgo Ranero.

It sounds like those trees have grown quite a bit since the last time that I walked that stretch in 2017.

 

[MARSKA]

Yes- they are now a decent size!

 

[VictoriaAria]

Hello fellow peregrinos! I have had trouble figuring out how to post using the app which is why it has taken so long.

First let me say that almost ALL of the advice I received on this forum has been right-on. I am very grateful to each and every person who has responded patiently to my questions. Try not to reserve so you can respond easily to the day and the people, take ( a lot) less stuff, be ready for the unexpected, be humble and kind. Do what you need to do to take care of yourself and be willing to help others.

Ok - the story thus far...
Shortly after arriving in Madrid, and while awaiting my flight to Pamplona a woman walked up to me and asked if I was walking the Camino (I had the shell attached to my pack). I said yes and was invited to join a group of 4 other pilgrims waiting for the same flight to Pamplona. I was beyond delighted to have met others so quickly!

After arriving in Pamplona we shared a taxi to downtown and exchanged contact info. One person had a hotel in Pamplona very near mine and she also had reservations at "my" Albergue in St. Jean for the same night I was staying. We had dinner together in Irun and met after breakfast to walk to the bus station. Arriving in St Jean we walked together to the Albergue and checked in. We met others at the communal dinner that evening and for the past 2 weeks i have walked and shared Albergues off and on with 4 of the people I met at dinnernand the folks I met the airporrt, along with others.

It was raining hard on the walk to Orrisson and it was very slippery. I decided to join a few others for a shared taxi ride from Orisson to Roncesvalles where I stayed in the 3rd floor dormitory which was very nice and comfy. Beautiful area.

4 women ( Crotian, Dutch, and 2 North Americans ) who met at the airport in Madrid, started walking to Zubiri the next morning.

By mid-morning I was far behind the others. I could not match the pace on the climbs and really slowed as it became hotter and hotter. The descent into Zubiri was very , very difficult. I did not have a reservation, so I checked into the first place available. I shared a 4 bedroom apt with a French group. I also met a woman from Canada while soaking my feet in the river. It was lovely!!! We've been walking together off and on since.

The early mornings have been pleasant, but by 11 the heat is problematic for me and by noon it's intolerable (especially with no shade). So, I've been starting my trek between 5:45 and 6:15, walking until noon most days thus far. Everyone seems to be walking by 6:00, probably due to the heat later in the day. No rain so far other than the first day.

I think our Spanish hosts are suffering from Pilgrim fatigue. With only a very few exceptions the hospital riots have been frazzled, stressed, and not very welcoming. I can understand - there are SO MANY of us! Selfishly, I wish there were fewer Pilgrims too - I almost feel as though I'm on the interstate... hearing the click-click-click behind me, watching the person pass me, and then hearing the next click-click-click and watching the next one pass by with long, quick strides.

Today was my longest day at 24km. I NEVER thought I could walk so far! And I could have done a few more KM's if there was shade along the route and/ or it was cooler. In Boadilla tonight with a wonderful group of pilgrims! Carrion tomorrow or maybe a little further. I'll post more in a few days.

That's helpful information, we are starting on Monday and hoping the weather will not be so bad!

 

[MARSKA]

I had originally thought. I might bus into Leon but I decided to walk . The first half of the walk was not bad - close to the road but with bushes and trees between the road & the trail. The second half was unpleasant - walking on asphalt and next to the road without substantial traffic barriers. Just an FYI to help others decide how to best handle this area.

 

[MARSKA]

I am SO glad the weather is cooler. I'much more relaxed walking as I don't feel the need to reach a stopping point before the temps climb unbearably high. What a relief!
In Leon today and tonight. Will travel on tomorrow.

 

[MARSKA]

The walk out of the city of Leon was awful.Once beyond the city and the confusing highway crossovers it was fine. I took the "scenic" route to Villar de Mazarife which was very nice.Staying at the Albergue Jesus tonight. Seems like an ok place.

 

[MARSKA]

Once the rain stopped it was a very nice walk from Mazarife to Hospital Orbigio today. Unfortunately I seem to be coming down with a cold - runny nose, stuffy head. Slight cough. Not bad enough to stop walking but enough to cause me to stop early. I'm worried about making someone else sick so I have a private room for tonight. I will see how I feel tomorrow.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Hope you have a great night sleep and feel considerably better in the morning.

 

[Stuart Lennon]

Good morning Marska - I hope that you are feeling better this morning.

 

[MARSKA]

Walked in the rain all day today to Astorga. Probably not the most intelligent thing to do with a cold. And the rain was muy frio! I think I'm a little worse today. It's going to rain again tomorrow so I'm looking into a bus from Astorga to Rabanal but I don't think there is one.
Does anyone know if there is a bus from Astorga to Rabanal?Gracias!

 

[J Willhaus]

Walked in the rain all day today to Astorga. Probably not the most intelligent thing to do with a cold. And the rain was muy frio! I think I'm a little worse today. It's going to rain again tomorrow so I'm looking into a bus from Astorga to Rabanal but I don't think there is one.
Does anyone know if there is a bus from Astorga to Rabanal?Gracias!

I answered you on the other post, but use there is a bus, but it takes you to Ponferrada and then backtracks to Rabanal.

 

[alexwalker]

Walked in the rain all day today to Astorga. Probably not the most intelligent thing to do with a cold. And the rain was muy frio! I think I'm a little worse today. It's going to rain again tomorrow so I'm looking into a bus from Astorga to Rabanal but I don't think there is one.
Does anyone know if there is a bus from Astorga to Rabanal?Gracias!

Take a taxi to Rabanal if you're not feeling well and/or it's raining much tomorrow. It won't cost that much.

 

[trecile]

Take a taxi to Rabanal if you're not feeling well and/or it's raining much tomorrow. It won't cost that much.

Or just stay where you are.

 

[dbier]

I hate to bring it up....but, Marska, I came down with a mild cold 2 days after my flight home.

Except it was Covid.

Please stay in private rooms until you get over whatever yours is.

Best of luck.

 

[MARSKA]

Yes! Of course. And I've tested negative 2x for Covid. A US MD on the Camino talked with me at length and says it's most likely asthmatic bronchitis (not infectious).

The walk today fromRababal to Molinesca was beautiful! Both the weather and the landscape and the towns were amazing! Glad I walked.

The stay at the donativo in Rabanal last night was my favorite stay so far. Amazing hospitality and kindness. Best ever! Fireplace to warm my bones after a cold, rainy walk. Beautiful little Hamlet. Perfect small stone church with a lovely Gregorian chanted mass. And there was soap provided at the lavatory sinks ( extremely important hygienic considerationthat is too often overlooked in public hostels).

 

[alexwalker]

Yes! Of course. And I've tested negative 2x for Covid. A US MD on the Camino talked with me at length and says it's most likely asthmatic bronchitis (not infectious).

The walk today fromRababal to Molinesca was beautiful! Both the weather and the landscape and the towns were amazing! Glad I walked.

The stay at the donativo in Rabanal last night was my favorite stay so far. Amazing hospitality and kindness. Best ever! Fireplace to warm my bones after a cold, rainy walk. Beautiful little Hamlet. Perfect small stone church with a lovely Gregorian chanted mass. And there was soap provided at the lavatory sinks ( extremely important hygienic considerationthat is too often overlooked in public hostels).

Very nice to read your posts. You are now a truly veteran peregrina! Good on you! Buen Camino. Tomorrow you will see the astonishing 1100th century Knights Templars castle in Ponferrada. Enjoy!

 

[Sheesh]

Very nice to read your posts. You are now a truly veteran peregrina! Good on you! Buen Camino. Tomorrow you will see the astonishing 1100th century Knights Templars castle in Ponferrada. Enjoy!

Yes indeed. And @MARSKA I believe the Castle is closed on Monday, so hopefully you will be feeling well enough to visit it on Sunday.

Hope you are feeling better very soon. I too have been enjoying following your journey.

 

[MARSKA]

Absolutely beautiful weather today! Ponferrada and the castle were enjoyable and I had the experience of briefly becoming lost when trying to find my way out of the city. Although the bit of road walking today wasn't pleasant, the trail bits were wonderful and very scenic (Molinesca to Cacabelos), especially after crossing the big highway bridge. Walking past the little brook, the vineyards, and the mountains I was in awe of the splendor often moment!

Last night the dorm was very stuffy, so after waking up around 2am, despite the cool weather I opened the window just a hair to "air out" the room a little. Before I had fallen back to sleep a peregrino jumped out of bed, called me a "crazy woman" , and shut & locked the window. In the morning I approached him and offered an apology for disturbing him, explaining gently that I felt the room had become quite close. He vehemently replied that he would not accept my apology, and called me crazy woman again, along with a few additional unkind comments. Did I unknowingly break a rule regarding windows?

 

[trecile]

Ah, the classic windows closed/open "debate." There are some that insist on closed windows despite the weather. I'll bet that there were a number of pilgrims who were happy that you had allowed some fresh air into the room.

It sounds like the guy was a jerk.

 

[J Willhaus]

Absolutely beautiful weather today! Ponferrada and the castle were enjoyable and I had the experience of briefly becoming lost when trying to find my way out of the city. Although the bit of road walking today wasn't pleasant, the trail bits were wonderful and very scenic (Molinesca to Cacabelos), especially after crossing the big highway bridge. Walking past the little brook, the vineyards, and the mountains I was in awe of the splendor often moment!

Last night the dorm was very stuffy, so after waking up around 2am, despite the cool weather I opened the window just a hair to "air out" the room a little. Before I had fallen back to sleep a peregrino jumped out of bed, called me a "crazy woman" , and shut & locked the window. In the morning I approached him and offered an apology for disturbing him, explaining gently that I felt the room had become quite close. He vehemently replied that he would not accept my apology, and called me crazy woman again, along with a few additional unkind comments. Did I unknowingly break a rule regarding windows?

Its a thing. In some places and cultures windows let in disease- bearing mosquitos. Some people still think just being in the cold can cause a cold instead of viruses.

If you are in a small place sometimes you can get a group consensus on windows open or closed, but it is rare.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Absolutely beautiful weather today! Ponferrada and the castle were enjoyable and I had the experience of briefly becoming lost when trying to find my way out of the city. Although the bit of road walking today wasn't pleasant, the trail bits were wonderful and very scenic (Molinesca to Cacabelos), especially after crossing the big highway bridge. Walking past the little brook, the vineyards, and the mountains I was in awe of the splendor often moment!

Last night the dorm was very stuffy, so after waking up around 2am, despite the cool weather I opened the window just a hair to "air out" the room a little. Before I had fallen back to sleep a peregrino jumped out of bed, called me a "crazy woman" , and shut & locked the window. In the morning I approached him and offered an apology for disturbing him, explaining gently that I felt the room had become quite close. He vehemently replied that he would not accept my apology, and called me crazy woman again, along with a few additional unkind comments. Did I unknowingly break a rule regarding windows?

No rule broken but the other individual’s! Regardless of ‘right or wrong’, you apologised for disturbing him, the least he could have done is accept that.
@trecile is right, he’s just a jerk.

 

[Wicked]

I love Eduardo's place in Boadilla. There are some good stops before you get to Carrion. It is not a race, enjoy.

Me, too!!

 

[MARSKA]

Me, too!!

Hi All! Whew- another cold rain & wind day. Right now I am listening to the sound of the crazy wind & rain blowing against the windows of the dormitory. I walked from Herrerias to Fonfria today - I was looking forward to O Cebreiro but alas! Nothing to see but rain ( and the church- wonderful!). I decided to taxi a few km to hopefully avoid the worst of the wind and rain and guess who I met!!!! A well-known member of this forum! He was so very friendly and helpful and even paid my share of the taxi fare - would not hear of me paying my part-way fare. And he told me so many interesting and helpful bits. Thanks RP! It was a real pleasure talking to you. Buen Camino!!!!!!!

Yesterday my warmest jacket fell from my pack while walking. I attached it to the outside of my pack after a stop to remove some outerwear - obviously not securely enough! So last night I was without a warm jacket the night before a big climb in the freezing rain - I asked at the Albergue if by chance they had a warm sweater or jacket in their donation box and guess what! Yep - a Pilgrim the day before had donated a jacket because the zipper had broken. Well. A few safety pins fixed that and the jacket was even my size!!!!! I guess the Camino Does provide.

 

[VNwalking]

Wonderful posts, @MARSKA! I'm really enjoying them. A few bumps in the last little while, from the sound of it. I hope at least you are feeling a bit better.

He vehemently replied that he would not accept my apology, and called me crazy woman again, along with a few additional unkind comments. Did I unknowingly break a rule regarding windows?

Some people are selfish selfish, selfish.
You did nothing wrong and everything right. That he couldn't receive your kind apology is his bad karma.

Some cultures have a fixed view that windows must never ever be open at night. It's awful in dorms sometimes - so I choose a bunk by the window if I can. It's not always possible to get consensus about having it open, but even a crack makes a difference. (I do ask, especially if there are any French people, who tend to strongly prefer closed.)

 

[MARSKA]

Tomorrow night will be my last night on the Camino path and my last night in a dormitorio. I will (God willing) be in Santiago the day after tomorrow.

Where did the time go?

I am staying tonight in a very nice, simple Albergue in Arzua and have met back up with a couple "old" friends from the early days on the meseta. We all agree that we don't want AND do want to be off the Camino. Both at the same time.

I have learned some important lessons and I am grateful for them.

Let me vent please. The weather. The 1st 2 weeks I thought I would die from the heat. Then there were 4 days of pleasant walking weather. After those 4 days it started to rain and it has rained everyday since, sometimes so hard I cannot see the path , the path is flooded. And I am soaked to the bone. I feel I missed so much of the natural beauty surrounding the Camino because I could see nothing but rain or had to seek shelter from the sun early in the day. But that is my
Camino.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@MARSKA , you’ve certainly not had the best of luck, weather wise. I admire your overall positivity.

Finishing can be hard. Some are happy; other’s suffer. A third group take weeks to process their feelings.

And some of us become addicted…..

 

[C clearly]

I feel I missed so much of the natural beauty surrounding the Camino

But no, you didn't miss anything. That is a bucket-list sort of thinking. You saw a lot of beauty and otherwise interesting stuff, you had a phenomenal personal experience.

There are more scenic places of natural beauty to walk, than the Camino. If you had different weather, you'd have a different experience. Of course, most of us wouldn't choose that weather, but it is great if we can take different satisfaction and joy in the different (but wet) experience. You seem to have done this, so congratulations! Next year, hopefully you'll have better weather!

 

[Stuart Lennon]

Wow! Nearly there. Fantastic work. Through blazing sun, pouring rain and howling winds. What a thing. Enjoy these final days. i know, that having finished on Friday, sure I had some positive feelings, but mostly there’s a melancholia, an emptiness, a sadness. I’ve read this is not unusual, as I my mind works through the camino and what it meant for me. As Peter hints above, has it become an addiction for me? Maybe…Ultreia @MARSKA Enjoy these cherry-on-the-icing-on-top moments.

 

[David Tallan]

And I am soaked to the bone. I feel I missed so much of the natural beauty surrounding the Camino because I could see nothing but rain or had to seek shelter from the sun early in the day. But that is my
Camino.

You certainly didn't have the best of luck weather-wise. Galicia can always be counted on to provide rain, but it seems to be providing it in more than usual abundance right now. You will always miss something on any Camino. It is impossible to see it all in one walk. But fortunately, the Camino is not going anywhere in case you should decide to come back and see some of the things you've missed.

 

[VNwalking]

I could see nothing but rain or had to seek shelter from the sun early in the day

Ah, yes - but what did you see inside?

Congratulations, @MARSKA and buen camino. I hope you get some sun on your way into Santiago!

 

[TravellingMan22]

Tomorrow night will be my last night on the Camino path and my last night in a dormitorio. I will (God willing) be in Santiago the day after tomorrow.

Where did the time go?

I am staying tonight in a very nice, simple Albergue in Arzua and have met back up with a couple "old" friends from the early days on the meseta. We all agree that we don't want AND do want to be off the Camino. Both at the same time.

I have learned some important lessons and I am grateful for them.

Let me vent please. The weather. The 1st 2 weeks I thought I would die from the heat. Then there were 4 days of pleasant walking weather. After those 4 days it started to rain and it has rained everyday since, sometimes so hard I cannot see the path , the path is flooded. And I am soaked to the bone. I feel I missed so much of the natural beauty surrounding the Camino because I could see nothing but rain or had to seek shelter from the sun early in the day. But that is my
Camino.

Ah sorry to hear that it’s didn’t go according to plan. I know how excited you were. Weather seems to have been shocking and I don’t think there’s any denying that weather is integral to the experience. I hope you had enough good times and memories though to have made it worthwhile .

 

[alexwalker]

I just checked long-term warning: Next 8 days: Pouring in SdC: up to 47 mm. on Sat 11.4. Just leave...

 

[TravellingMan22]

I just checked long-term warning: Next 8 days: Pouring in SdC: up to 47 mm. on Sat 11.4. Just leave...

Plenty of places at in Spain where the sun is shining if you have any spare time!

 

[MARSKA]

I found this photo taken when walking the "mountain route" between Villafranca and Trabedelo. It was a very nice trail but steep in the beginning.

 

[MARSKA]

Looking down at the tunnels:

l

 

[Pathfinder075]

An American guy in the Parroquial at Trabadelo (Fran's place) described that trail as brutal. Said it was the hardest trail he'd ever done. i actually got to see the bottom route from the other direction as i had to back track to Ponferrada and ended up walking the 10km back to Villafranca from Trabadelo. After I got treatment I walked back up, but went to Vega del Valcarce instead and staged from there.

As for people shutting windows, I had the same for pretty much the entire 7 weeks i walked. But at the same time, if you leave the windows open you have issues with the mosquitoes and in the worst case end up with problems due to the bites. I bought a mosquito net in Ponferrada from Decathlon and never looked back. Probably the most useful thing i bought while on Camino. But it was pretty much crazy hot in September with the heat, so when numps lock windows and doors it got really bad. Also we had some guy letting gas go all night at one place and god knows what he ate, but it stank the dorm out to the point the windows had to be left open, lest we all died from the rotten egg smell.

The bad person in me says you should have said to the guy who called you crazy woman, "you wanted him to not get Covid from you", but since he chose to have close the windows, he should probably test himself in a day or two.

 

[MARSKA]

I didn't experience any mosquitos. Lots of flies the first week/10 days though.
It was a difficult path but beautiful.

At the top there is an Albergue called Lamas. Had a bowl of delicious soup, a sandwich, home baked chestnut cake and chestnut liquor.

 

[trecile]

At the top there is an Albergue called Lamas

I loved that place!
I had the best sandwich there with veggies from their garden.

 

[MARSKA]

Great food and a beautiful landscape for sure at Lamas.
Here are pics of the alternative route to Villafranca de Bierzo that begins just beyond Cacabelos. Very gentle hills and much better than the road!

 

[rappahannock_rev]

.... I was looking forward to O Cebreiro but alas! Nothing to see but rain ( and the church- wonderful!). I decided to taxi a few km to hopefully avoid the worst of the wind and rain and guess who I met!!!! A well-known member of this forum! He was so very friendly and helpful and even paid my share of the taxi fare - would not hear of me paying my part-way fare. And he told me so many interesting and helpful bits. Thanks RP! It was a real pleasure talking to you. Buen Camino!!!!!!!

Pleasure was all mine, ma'am!

 

[Pathfinder075]

It's wonderous who you meet from here when not expecting to, nor looking to. I met a guy who likes beer as much as me, while walking the Ingles, who also hangs out on here.

Glad you found someone else from on here. i almost think we hang out on here and never generally meet in real life, so when it happens it's a bit of a surprise.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Great food and a beautiful landscape for sure at Lamas.
Here are pics of the alternative route to Villafranca de Bierzo that begins just beyond Cacabelos. Very gentle hills and much better than the road!
View attachment 159994

I have read in the past that this particular photo is one of the most often taken on the Frances. I loved taking this little alternative route and have a few of the same pictures I took of this lone house and trees.

 

[MARSKA]

Walking to Leon - in case anyone is wondering "how bad" it is...[

 

[MARSKA]

Pleasure was all mine, ma'am!

Hi there! No, I assure you, the pleasure was mine indeed! It was wonderful to meet you and I am very appreciative of your generosity and assistance. Kath

 

[MARSKA]

I have read in the past that this particular photo is one of the most often taken on the Frances. I loved taking this little alternative route and have a few of the same pictures I took of this lone house and trees.

It's easy to understand why! I was very taken by the landscape and when the white house appeared above the horizon I was gobsmacked!

 

[jpflavin1]

Great food and a beautiful landscape for sure at Lamas.
Here are pics of the alternative route to Villafranca de Bierzo that begins just beyond Cacabelos. Very gentle hills and much better than the road!
View attachment 159994

This might be the most common picture taken on the camino.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

This might be the most common picture taken on the camino.

Yes, I have even read that it is "the most", but have no proof that it is true or not.

 

[MARSKA]

Ah, yes - but what did you see inside?

Thoughtful question, VN. One that will take awhile to sort out - but - one thing I learned is how very difficult it is for me to allow myself to be (and feel) vulnerable. Also how much I enjoy allowing the extroverted side of me some space to play once in awhile.

 

[dreaming]

I walked CF in October. I arrived at Albergue lamas in the rain. I didn't know if anyone was there but it turned out there were six pilgrims staying for the night. The couple were delightful and so helpful. We ended up peeling chestnuts before the pilgrims dinner. Wonderful, home grown food. This is where i met David from Ireland with his mandolin. He is extremely talented and played his mandolin for me for two hours at a different albergue further down the Camino. I loved this place.