New Pilgrim question about hiking over the Pyrnees (first leg of SJPDP)

[patticake5]

Hello, I am in the planning stages of walking my first camino this fall and grateful for this site. It's been most helpful!
I'll be starting my journey at SJPDP and going solo. My question is regarding the first leg over the Pyranees. I'm reading about the steep incline and descent. Some comments I've seen is that is it dangerous. I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes. What should I expect on this especially as a solo traveler? I'm a bit nervous.

 

[Mary M]

Hello, I am in the planning stages of walking my first camino this fall and grateful for this site. It's been most helpful!
I'll be starting my journey at SJPDP and going solo. My question is regarding the first leg over the Pyranees. I'm reading about the steep incline and descent. Some comments I've seen is that is it dangerous. I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes. What should I expect on this especially as a solo traveler? I'm a bit nervous.

 

[Mary M]

I am 65 year old woman and walked over the Pyrenees. There are a lot of people on the trail. You will be fine.

May I suggest you make reservations for Orisson and take it easy on the first day? Then you will start fresh for the steepest part the following morning. You will need to make reservations for Rochevalles as well. The rest of the trip rarely requires reservations until you get close to Santiago.

I brought a trash bag and picked up trash the first few days. It seems that unprepared walkers try to get rid of extra weight on the way up. There was a lot of trash. I was concerned about the amount of plastic and its impact on the horses and sheep.

The walk the first two days is STUNNING. You will enjoy the beauty. Watch for little statues of the virgin Mary hidden in the trees or at the base of trees. She will be your walking partner. No one walks alone. You are walking with the pilgrims of the past and guided by your higher power. Safe journeys! Enjoy!

 

[C clearly]

I walked over from SJPP to Roncesvalles in 1 day, at 66 and moderate fitness. Use poles to help on the downhill balance when your legs are wobbly at the end of the day. Otherwise, there is nothing dangerous about it, unless the weather is bad and snowing. You could slip and break your leg walking from your car to your house, so you need to be careful in the winter. (Just giving an example of similar common sense.)

 

[trecile]

There are two ways downhill - the steep path through the forest, and the more gentle decline via the road. I've taken the road both times I walked this route.

 

[Albertagirl]

Hello, I am in the planning stages of walking my first camino this fall and grateful for this site. It's been most helpful!
I'll be starting my journey at SJPDP and going solo. My question is regarding the first leg over the Pyranees. I'm reading about the steep incline and descent. Some comments I've seen is that is it dangerous. I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes. What should I expect on this especially as a solo traveler? I'm a bit nervous.

@patticake5 : Following the Francés route from St Jean pies de Port to Roncesvalles is no challenge for an experienced Rocky Mountains hiker in good condition. I walked that route alone (except for the hundreds of others walking it at the same time) in 2015, at the age of 67. I did stop at Orisson, to make my first two days easier and because I was not in great shape at the time and was unable to start my first day early. But I found the walk up to Orisson easier than I expected and the rest of the walk to Roncesvalles not difficult. Much of it is on roads! A large majority of walkers goes through in one day. Whatever you decide, Buen Camino.

 

[RJM]

From what you describe of yourself you are an experienced backpacker and I am going to assume you are in good physical condition with no medical issues that effect walking long distances. If so, you should have no problem walking (not hiking as it is not a hike) all the way to Roncesvalles that first day. Most pilgrims, of all ages, do walk the entire distance that first day. I have on multiple occasions, both routes with no problems. Arriving mid afternoon. A great deal of the track is on roadway. In good weather, and by good I mean not a snowstorm, and if you hydrate properly, there is absolutely nothing dangerous about the walk.

 

[CdnDreamer]

What surprised me (coming from North America) was all the farms, sheep, cows and horses on this mountain. A lot of the walk over the mountain is on farm roads. When you leave the roads, the trail is steep, but there is no climbing up big rocks or anything like that. I agree with @trecile that the road is better to take on the way down. Many times the path leads off the road, (saves going through all the switchbacks) and there is a really nice section through the woods.

 

[Felipe]

Tough? Yes.
Dangerous? Not really.
The vast majority of pilgrims do it in one stage. And you will have other people in sight most of the time; it is not lonely at all.
Most injures seems to come in the last, steep descent by the forest, to Roncesvalles, right after Lepoeder pass. As mentioned above, you can follow there the easier (and scenic, too) paved road to Ibañeta chapel, and then a short walk by the forest to Roncesvalles. At Lepoeder this option is marked in the signpost as "Alternativa suave" ("soft alternative", see the image below). You can see it also in Google Maps.
As always, weather could be a factor to consider carefully; it is a mountain pass. If the people in the PIlgrim's office says no, take the other, lower path from SJJP, by Valcarlos village.
There are other threads about this stage in the forum; use the "search" function for more info.

 

[jpflavin1]

Hello, I am in the planning stages of walking my first camino this fall and grateful for this site. It's been most helpful!
I'll be starting my journey at SJPDP and going solo. My question is regarding the first leg over the Pyranees. I'm reading about the steep incline and descent. Some comments I've seen is that is it dangerous. I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes. What should I expect on this especially as a solo traveler? I'm a bit nervous.

Patticake5:

Do not be nervous. There are two routes up. The Napoleon and the ValCarlos.

The Napoleon route is steeper, basically rural road walking the first 10+km's, especially in the first leg to Orisson (8km's). It will be a long day but very doable. It is also, imo, the toughest day on the CF.

The ValCarlos is a more gradual start with a break at ValCarlos (11km's). ValCarlos has shopping and restaurants for a nice break. The rest of the way is a combination of off road and rural road walking. A long day but very doable.

There is no danger at all unless you walk the Napoleon pass when it is closed.

It is very unlikely you will be by yourself.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[janice_rn]

Hello, I am in the planning stages of walking my first camino this fall and grateful for this site. It's been most helpful!
I'll be starting my journey at SJPDP and going solo. My question is regarding the first leg over the Pyranees. I'm reading about the steep incline and descent. Some comments I've seen is that is it dangerous. I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes. What should I expect on this especially as a solo traveler? I'm a bit nervous.

Hi Patticake - I am also in the early stages of planning my first (likely solo) Camino and hoping to begin in late August. I live in the US and my hiking experience has been in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I just found this site, and am eager to read and learn from the others who post. Perhaps I will meet you on the road! - Janice

 

[Judith Bush]

Hi Patticake. Don't try and keep up with the other pilgrims , just take it SLOW and take frequent breaks and you will be fine. It is an amazingly beautiful walk. Buen Camino!

 

[gerip]

There are two ways downhill - the steep path through the forest, and the more gentle decline via the road. I've taken the road both times I walked this route.

Me too. But anyone who’s hiked anywhere in the US would probably have no problems on the last 3k, the rest of the day is pretty much all paved, except the forested bits in the middle. Starting at Orisson, it was the easiest day of the camino for me so far, believe it or not. And that’s with double knee replacements, just turned 65, and significantly overweight! Walking over wet slippery boulders was far more challenging for me than the Pyrenees. The last 4k down to Zubiri the next day was a nightmare!

 

[c0484]

Hello, I am in the planning stages of walking my first camino this fall and grateful for this site. It's been most helpful!
I'll be starting my journey at SJPDP and going solo. My question is regarding the first leg over the Pyranees. I'm reading about the steep incline and descent. Some comments I've seen is that is it dangerous. I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes. What should I expect on this especially as a solo traveler? I'm a bit nervous.

The first day can be taxing and/or if you are not in good physical condition. No one should walk the Camino without proper physical conditioning. You have to know your body, but do not think you do not have to prepare. Just keep in mind that over 317,000 made it last year. The worst injury I have seen the first day was the persons Achilles tendon was exposed because he did not have the proper footwear nor was it broken in properly. I am 73 and have no problem with day one.

 

[patticake5]

Thanks everyone! I think I slept better last night after reading your responses. I am 60, in good shape and an experienced hiker but with only a day pack and poles-nothing more. Once we get past our Polar Vortex I will start my outdoor training.
There is so much information that I'm trying to digest slowly. I'm reading Brierly's book and sometimes it seems overwhelming!
Again, thanks for your responses!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes.

Great. Then I can say you will not have any problems. Once you have reached the heights of the Route Napoleon there are two ways down. One is steep and I believe has loose rocks. With rain there is slippery mud. Just take the alternative that the Pilgrims Office prefers to direct walkers to.

Edit: Dave Bugg submitted a video below. Go to minute 34:00 to see him take the longer but less steep alternative way that the Pilgrims Office recommends.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Hi Patticake - I am also in the early stages of planning my first (likely solo) Camino and hoping to begin in late August. I live in the US and my hiking experience has been in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I just found this site, and am eager to read and learn from the others who post. Perhaps I will meet you on the road! - Janice

We hike the Whites too. You won't have a problem.

From Pinkham Notch to the summit of Mt. Washington is about the same elevation gain in about a quarter of the distance on much more rugged trails.

 

[Deleted member 67185]

Hello, I am in the planning stages of walking my first camino this fall and grateful for this site. It's been most helpful!
I'll be starting my journey at SJPDP and going solo. My question is regarding the first leg over the Pyranees. I'm reading about the steep incline and descent. Some comments I've seen is that is it dangerous. I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes. What should I expect on this especially as a solo traveler? I'm a bit nervous.

 

[J F Gregory]

Hello, I am in the planning stages of walking my first camino this fall and grateful for this site. It's been most helpful!
I'll be starting my journey at SJPDP and going solo. My question is regarding the first leg over the Pyranees. I'm reading about the steep incline and descent. Some comments I've seen is that is it dangerous. I've hiked the Smoky Mts,, the Rockies Arches and Zion so I'm familiar with some challenging hikes. What should I expect on this especially as a solo traveler? I'm a bit nervous.

If yo have walked the Smoky's the Pyrenees will be a breeze.

 

[Stacyv]

There are two ways downhill - the steep path through the forest, and the more gentle decline via the road. I've taken the road both times I walked this route.

The road is definitely the best option. Takes no longer and no sore knees at the end!

 

[Mike Blackard]

Unless you are in a big hurry, stopping the first day at Orisson is a great way to start. Last fall, for me, the communal dinner was a fantastic way to see and meet lots of pilgrims, many of who you will bump into weeks later. Don't miss it. Reserve at Orisson and Roncesvalles, but the rest is easier with lots of choices.

 

[cathal Ferris]

My Experience walking over the Pyrenees going up through Orison is steep and along the Napolean route can be exciting as the people you meet however the downward side can be slippy in places with grey clay on rocks making for picking your steps on the descend to Roncesvalles. On Leaving the Monastery at Roncesvalles the following morning I met an English Guy walking solo who told me his companion had slipped on the descent and cut his thigh he was taking to hospital and was suffering from dehydration so make sure you drink plenty of water keep hydrated and wear proper footwear on the descent

 

[trecile]

My Experience walking over the Pyrenees going up through Orison is steep and along the Napolean route can be exciting as the people you meet however the downward side can be slippy in places with grey clay on rocks making for picking your steps on the descend to Roncesvalles. On Leaving the Monastery at Roncesvalles the following morning I met an English Guy walking solo who told me his companion had slipped on the descent and cut his thigh he was taking to hospital and was suffering from dehydration so make sure you drink plenty of water keep hydrated and wear proper footwear on the descent

That's why you should take the road to the right, which isn't steep and slippery.

 

[bobbogram]

What a wonderful video! I think the genesis of label Pyranees was the admonition that you need a good “pair-a-knees”. My first Camino was El Norte from St Donatur which is panoramic and probably less grueling. With my old basketball knees, I’ve only had a problem coming South from the Swiss border on the Francigena. Take your time, particularly at the start.