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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 11.0

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Day 11- ok so I am lingering on day 11, but day 11 was the day of Najera, and of a wonderful spontaneous evening spent in the company of an amazing lady who proclaimed she was a witch who had been burned at the stake in a former life (yes, my Camino was basically this crazy and beautiful the whole way through). And we ate Dorada at some cute little restaurant which had some upscale pilgrim menu that topped out at €18 for 3 courses and wine - yes it was the height of exuberance.
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Camino Frances - August 4, 2019
Villares de Orbigo to Astorga. (3 hours) Then on to Rabanal. It was a long day that started at 4:37a. The Knight at the albergue bid me a Buen Camino. I set out to catch up with my friend in Astorga. I was a little nervous as I watched the lights from the village behind me get smaller and smaller. I heard critters running past me and winged creatures flying above. I felt my heart beating out of my chest while my mind was saying, don’t panic. I came upon a familiar friend before I conquered the green monster. Astorga in my sights. Mission accomplished. Forgive me for breaking the one photo rule. 😌 I won't post for a few days.
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😎👣🌻
 
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
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Camino Frances
Melide
rúa Codeseira, 43

photo taken December 5, 2013

Melide, restaurante Sony.jpg

In Melide the Hospedaje/ Restaurante Sony had good food, friendly service, low prices and much macho atmosphere. Road workers, police, and lorry drivers ate here as did I during many caminos.
 
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End of Day 14 ( Sept '22 ) Reliegos to Oncina.... not brave enough to try and get into the hammock. Was sure there was somebody else there with a camera ...waiting for me to fall out
Oh I stayed there and it was wonderful!
 
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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

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In Melide the Hospedaje/ Restaurante Sony had good food, friendly service, low prices and much macho atmosphere. Road workers, police, and lorry drivers ate here as did I during many caminos.
I have good memories of the Hospedaje Restaurante Sony, the good food and their kindness after staying there for two days in 2012, resting with shin splints!
 
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April 21, 2022 Camino Invierno
Priaranza del Bierzo

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Early afternoon on the first day of this Camino, searching for some lunch in this last village before beginning the climb up to Villavieja. Everything had been closed so far. Finally found a bar open at the side of the highway for cafe con leche and a bocadillo stuffed with an enormous omelet.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Day 14 - in the beautiful woods of Montes de Oca, shortly after the stall of the guy who smokes big reefas, paints your flag on a scallop shell and plays cool music the Camino was brought back down to earth in the most sobering and humbling way possible as I came upon a memorial at the site where 300 people were massacred by Franco's henchmen. It brought me to tears to think that something so wicked could happen in a place so beautiful.
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Between Encorro de Beche and As Travesas, on our way to Hospital de Bruma from Betanzos. A long and hot day’s walking! We were very relieved to reach Cafe Casa Avelina in As Travesas and its owner Maria Carmen, who spoils all her customers, with free nibbles and amazing hospitality. She even gave me a stool to put my feet on!! 8th July 2022. Camino Ingles.
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Sometimes you see something that is so odd that you wonder why it's made this way. Under the Dom Luís I Bridge in Porto you can see a spiral ladder illuminated on the underside. There must be some reason for the rather unconventional way it has been made.
 

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When it rains, pilgrims walk.
I often think wistfully of locals who just have to go to the shops or to work. Not that I want to do that as opposed to walking a camino, but I don't much like being wet all day.......
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Vasco 2019, I think this was Andoain but am not sure.
 
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Day 15 - so I have a tattoo of Flora on my arm, and it's one of my most precious things. Infact going back to day 14 the reefa smoking donativo snack store/table guy in the woods at Montes de Oca declared he wanted to cut my arm off so he could hang the picture of my Flora on his wall!! Anyway it is a very beautiful tattoo of my beautiful girl, and I take care of it as best I can. This involves putting this tattoo balm on it, and day 15 I stopped for a coffee (always cortado) on my way into the center of Burgos and took out the small pot of the balm to put it on, and I know the Camino can do strange things to people but I am positive there was what looked like a paw print in there 🐾
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When it rains, pilgrims walk.
I often think wistfully of locals who just have to go to the shops or to work. Not that I want to do that as opposed to walking a camino, but I don't much like being wet all day.......
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Vasco 2019, I think this was Andoain but am not sure.


Seems so. I believe we had breakfast in the town just before, Urnieta, close to the church? Though now I'm not so sure about the places and timeframe. Anyway , the breakfast was in the town with the escalators.
 
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A peak through the door to the site of the old Pilgrim's Office. Santiago de Compostela. October 7, 2023

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Exactly 10 years earlier I was there on the other side of that door getting my final stamp for my first Camino. It was so small compared to the current location but held huge amounts of history. If those walls could talk.
😎👣🌻
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Day 16, and the best evening of the whole Camino - St Anton. No words can really do it justice, we ate, we drank, we laughed, we cried and we looked at endless stars through the telescope before falling asleep beneath them. In the morning we woke up to my birthday and ate breakfast by candle-light.
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Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

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Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Camino Frances
Arzúa
Xunta albergue

photo taken March 19, 2009

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In this repurposed/renovated historic school many original details had been kept. However, best of all, in the then new ground floor showers, hot water sprayed me and not the walls! ...Bliss.
I stayed here, and it still looks very much the same, and the showers were 👌
 
Day 17 - Boadilla del Camino. So as you can probably tell, I'm a dog person. After I'd showered and sorted my bed etc in the Albergue. I wandered across to the connected bar/restaurant(I think also a hotel)I found this young guy sitting outside the church in Boadilla del Camino with his dog, with a sign asking for money. At first I just walked past and into the bar to get a beer (bar was not in the church but to the left of). The dog then gave me a guilt trip so I went back out and asked why he was there, and it turns out he was walking from I think Barcelona to Santiago and then back to France, anyway it was crazy and you could see he was quite genuine, had zero money and loved his dog (which for me is a sign of a decent person). So I gave him some money (I think 10 euro's) but made him promise it was to be spent on food for the dog - at this point he started crying (and tbf given the emotional wreck I was on the Camino I nearly started too). Anyway, I then asked him if he wanted a drink, and he asked for a coke, so that reassured me that he wasn't going to spend the money on beer which for some reason I always worry about. Anyway, I am rambling now so I will try and finish this story. Later on we were having our pilgrim meal, and the chap and his dog wandered in. The hospitelero had offered him a meal, and a spare bed for the night, all for no cost. This was a hugely humbling lesson for me about the spirit of the Camino and of human nature.
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Camino Norte
Sobrado dos Monxes monastery
March 24, 2007

Sobrado Dos Monxes 2007 .jpg

Fourteen years ago I detoured to Sobrado from Arzua; the round trip walk was roughly 50 km.

Within the Cistercian/Trappist complex when the door porter saw my American passport he delightedly and silently pointed to several shelves filled with the works of Thomas Merton, the renowned American Trappist as he stamped my Credential.
...
 
Camino Frances - Sept 2013
Just a few days from SJPdP not sure of where exactly. This is what happens when you ignore your intuition and go with those who say they know the way. 🤷🏻‍♀️ I knew we were in trouble when the sun was in front of us on this early morning departure. 😂 Another reason why I enjoy walking solo.

😎👣🌻 SMH 🤦🏻‍♀️

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Another reason why I enjoy walking solo.
Haha until losing one's own way.

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About to take the wrong turn on the San Olav for the second time in the day, having already missed the Lana exit from Santo Domingo de Silos and the pueblo of Covarrubias. It all added a bunch of extra kms, and boy was I hungry at the day's end. But totally worth it.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Camino Norte
Sobrado dos Monxes monastery
March 24, 2007

View attachment 164773

Fourteen years ago I detoured to Sobrado from Arzua; the round trip walk was roughly 50 km.

Within the Cistercian/Trappist complex when the door porter saw my American passport he delightedly and silently pointed to several shelves filled with the works of Thomas Merton, the renowned American Trappist as he stamped my Credential.
...
I hope to get to stay here when we do the Primitivo (via verde) this July🤞
 
I hope to get to stay here when we do the Primitivo (via verde) this July🤞
I hope that you will be able to attend their evening vespers service.
In 2007 it was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. Walls were either painted white or natural wood. All was lit by thick, sputtering candles. The monks wearing their white robes responded in unison.

It was a true privilege to share such a timeless ambiance;
 
Camino Frances
Arzúa
Xunta albergue

photo taken March 19, 2009

View attachment 164704

In this repurposed/renovated historic school many original details had been kept. However, best of all, in the then new ground floor showers, hot water sprayed me and not the walls! ...Bliss.
Not much changed..not the biggest fan of the showers though.. little bit of a free for all (sept 22)
 

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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Not much changed..not the biggest fan of the showers though.. little bit of a free for all (sept 22)

Oct 2023! No issues with showers, but it was very busy and lots of unhappy pilgrims in the morning due to the noise some of the others were making, I think some were there for a party. My dorm was ok though, so maybe I was lucky.
 

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
CF - Sept 2013
I was soooooo confused. I still am. 😂 I believe this was after the long straight 17k no services stretch. Where after the stretch I stopped at the first cafe for a Coca Cola. I moved on with a few pilgrims behind me. I stood at this spot scratching my brain waiting for the others to catch up. We decided to the right, straight ahead. Good call. 😎🌻👣
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I hope that you will be able to attend their evening vespers service.
In 2007 it was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. Walls were either painted white or natural wood. All was lit by thick, sputtering candles. The monks wearing their white robes responded in unison.

It was a true privilege to share such a timeless ambiance;
We also experienced evening vespers at Sobrado in 2018, at the end of our Camino del Norte, which was a wonderful experience and we would definitely recommend. There was also a concert being held there with three Galician choirs, one was a children’s choir, they were all very good.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
On the Vasco/Via de Bayona, each pueblo has a wonderfully informative map that is often more impressive than the number of residents (though not in this case).
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Burgueta. On the Vasco/Via de Bayona. Number of residents in 2020 was 42.


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26 Sept 2023, CF - Leaving Hospital de Órbigo at sunrise.

In the fall of 2016, I walked the CF with my adult son. Per his wishes, we skipped the Meseta so he could keep up with a new friend. We had a great Camino and European travel afterward. But... missing the Meseta was a regret I wanted to rectify someday.

Over the following years, I underwent five surgeries (four surgeries to rebuild my legs plus another surgery in an attempt to reduce the probability of cancer on the horizon). Finally, after the Sisyphean odyssey of surgery/recovery/rehab/repeat multiple times, I returned to the Camino last year to complete every step of the CF I missed in 2016 plus the Camino Finisterre.

I know now that the Meseta had been postponed to a time in my life when I truly needed it (amid a second go through college more than three decades after completing the first go, many times feeling like the ancient Gandalf among the Hobbits). I needed to be reminded of/relearn what Bill Bennett described in his book, The Way, My Way, as the power of many incremental, small steps.
 
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
April 23, 2022 Camino Invierno, day 3
Passing through Puente de Domingo Flores after the descent from
Las Medulas, on a search for some lunch and a supermercado. I seem to remember the Camino crossing the river three times here before entering Galicia.
 

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A selection of Camino Jewellery
April 23, 2022 Camino Invierno, Las Medulas to Sobradelo
After crossing into Galicica, the path passes through the abandoned village of Nogueiras, where a rest area has been provided within the ruins. It was a peaceful place to have a snack out of the ever-present wind, and spend a few moments in solitary reflection.

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April 23, 2022 Camino Invierno, Las Medulas to Sobradelo
After crossing into Galicica, the path passes through the abandoned village of Nogueiras, where a rest area has been provided within the ruins. It was a peaceful place to have a snack out of the ever-present wind, and spend a few moments in solitary reflection.

View attachment 165031
What a wonderful place :)
 
Day 20 - ok so this one's a bit personal, and not actually a photo from the Camino, but it's part of my Camino story. I got sent a photo of an article that the local paper had run about my Camino whilst I was on the Camino. They'd taken select things out of my daily FB blog, the monastery they refer to they got confused with Yuso when actually it was the nunnery of Cizur Menor which I fled to from Pamplona! I keep a cut-out of the article along with my Credencial and Compostela (which was made out Vicare Pro to Flora)🐾
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Day 20 - ok so this one's a bit personal, and not actually a photo from the Camino, but it's part of my Camino story. I got sent a photo of an article that the local paper had run about my Camino. They'd taken select things out of my daily FB blog, the monastery they refer to they got confused with Yuso when actually it was the nunnery of Cizur Menor which I fled to from Pamplona! I keep a cut-out of the article along with my Credencial and Compostela (which was made out Vicare Pro to Flora)🐾
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Lovely write up. I too ran away from Pamplona on my first Camino. Too much noise, I felt lost. Cizur Menor was a great place to stop. I liked the albergue. I believe the one I stayed at (pictured below) is now closed. :-( I remember the turtles in the pool/pond. Sept 5, 2013
😎👣🌻
cizur%20manor%20where%20i%20met%20roel.jpeg
 
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Lovely write up. I too ran away from Pamplona on my first Camino. Too much noise, I felt lost. Cizur Menor was a great place to stop. I liked the albergue. I believe the one I stayed at (pictured below) is now closed. :-( I remember the turtles in the pool. Sept 5, 2013
😎👣🌻
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Looks beautiful 😍 The nunnery was very very basic, but it was one of my favourite stays on my Camino and exactly what I needed at the time, and it helped fix this little wobbly pilgrim. The next day was one of my best days - how quickly things can turn around.
 
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