On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 6.0

[Camino Chrissy]

and we long to share it (with his wisdom of sleeping over in Valcarlos).

I really enjoyed staying at the muni in Valcarlos. It seemed quite new, only had about 8 beds, a nice kitchen with laundry, and a very good sized bathroom with two showers.

 

[VNwalking]

Here's my view of Valcarlos, taken from the opposite direction. There must be a rut by the way where everyone stops, momentarily transfixed by the view. And of course takes a photo; this was taken a month and a day before Chris's.

 

[Anne&Pat]

Llanes, with a connection to the Spanish Armada. The town celebrates two major events from the 16thC with commemorative plaques: the visit of Emperor Charles V in 1517 and the contribution of 65 men and three ships to the Spanish Armada. You may notice the sailing ship weather vane. May, 2018. Two today because we didn't post yesterday.

 

[SabsP]

Sunday. Time for a longer lunch and a good wine.

This Rioja I was served ( not a Sunday though ) at Casa Barqueiro in Negreira.
I already posted a picture of the delicious food ( oh those grilled vegetables ) earlier.

Casa Barqueiro is listed in the Michelin guide ( and many Spanish ones too ) and I know that Juan Maria Arzak ( distinguished chef from San Sebastian ) visits the place regularly.

When I passed by the place I saw the red Michelin resto sticker. I hesitantly entered ( you know the weary pilgrim look after you have finished walking for the day ). I saw an area that looked like a bar and got seated there, meanwhile watching dressed up businessmen going to the fancy comedor part of the restaurant.
Well, staff could not have been friendlier to this tired and shabby pilgrim.
14 € for the loveliest menu del dia I have ever had on any Camino.
Exquisite grilled vegetables as a starter ( fresher than fresh ) and as a main Chipirones a la plancha. Dessert was homemade cheesecake.
Combined with this lovely Rioja! And this one was uncorked in front of my eyes.
I later did a search on the internet what the price was when I would buy it at home. The same as the price of the whole menu.

Anyway..when I was drinking my cortado ( 0.90 € ! ) I remember two people ( one of the posh people ) patting on my back and wishing me a heartfelt Buen Camino.
So do not be shy to walk into a place that on the first hand seems a bit upmarket.They will most probably have a decent menu del dia that is only one or two euro more expensive than the sometimes dull menu del peregrino.
I sometimes forget this important lesson : people are people. I should have been more openminded and not think so quickly people would judge me for my appearance...

Casa Barqueiro – Negreira - a MICHELIN Guide Restaurant

Casa Barqueiro – a Bib Gourmand: good quality, good value cooking restaurant in the 2024 MICHELIN Guide España. The MICHELIN inspectors’ point of view, information on prices, types of cuisine and opening hours on the MICHELIN Guide's official website

guide.michelin.com

Restaurante Casa Barqueiro in Negreira - Restaurant menu and reviews

I recommend you to visit the restaurant Restaurante Casa Barqueiro. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.

restaurantguru.com

 

[mspath]

I really enjoyed staying at the muni in Valcarlos. It seemed quite new, only had about 8 beds, a nice kitchen with laundry, and a very good sized bathroom with two showers.

During all my caminos I followed the Valcarlos alternate route.

The present albergue is indeed new 2009 with 24 places in 2 dorms and you can reserve a bunk.
Email the Valcarlos municipal office to ask for a reservation at Luzaide-Valcarlos@wanadoo.es or at
turismo@luzaide-valcarlos.net.
or telephone them at
+34 948 79 01 17.

However in 2004 on my first Camino all was quite different. When I saw no sign I asked in French at the drugstore. The druggist took me to the mayor’s office where they handed me a key. Unmarked and then between two public lavatories (!!) at the back of the municipal playground, the space was small, clean and a donativo. ...Outside the water ran alĺ night.

 

[VNwalking]

I hesitantly entered ( you know the weary pilgrim look after you have finished walking for the day

Anyway..when I was drinking my cortado ( 0.90 € ! ) I remember two people ( one of the posh people ) patting on my back and wishing me a heartfelt Buen Camino.

I sometimes forget this important lesson : people are people.

This is the best post of the week. Beautiful!
Gracias, Sabine.

On a camino I have very never gone into one of those restos with red stickers in the window, knowing I would not be able to dress appropriately. And assuming I would not be able to afford it. Obviously that may not always be the case.

 

[Phoenix]

Divergent paths just beyond Farol de Leça (Matosinhos).

Had I chosen the path to the right, I wouldn't have met a couple from Germany with whom I walked for the next two days. Meeting them changed the trajectory of my Camino.

CP, Oct 2019

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

11 May so somewhere between La Franca and Naves, probably before Llanes based on photos...
he was on this distinctive wall if any of you Norte-walkers can place it...

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Sunday. Time for a longer lunch and a good wine.

This Rioja I was served ( not a Sunday though ) at Casa Barqueiro in Negreira.
I already posted a picture of the delicious food ( oh those grilled vegetables ) earlier.

Casa Barqueiro is listed in the Michelin guide ( and many Spanish ones too ) and I know that Juan Maria Arzak ( distinguished chef from San Sebastian ) visits the place regularly.

When I passed by the place I saw the red Michelin resto sticker. I hesitantly entered ( you know the weary pilgrim look after you have finished walking for the day ). I saw an area that looked like a bar and got seated there, meanwhile watching dressed up businessmen going to the fancy comedor part of the restaurant.
Well, staff could not have been friendlier to this tired and shabby pilgrim.
14 € for the loveliest menu del dia I have ever had on any Camino.
Exquisite grilled vegetables as a starter ( fresher than fresh ) and as a main Chipirones a la plancha. Dessert was homemade cheesecake.
Combined with this lovely Rioja! And this one was uncorked in front of my eyes.
I later did a search on the internet what the price was when I would buy it at home. The same as the price of the whole menu.

Anyway..when I was drinking my cortado ( 0.90 € ! ) I remember two people ( one of the posh people ) patting on my back and wishing me a heartfelt Buen Camino.
So do not be shy to walk into a place that on the first hand seems a bit upmarket.They will most probably have a decent menu del dia that is only one or two euro more expensive than the sometimes dull menu del peregrino.
I sometimes forget this important lesson : people are people. I should have been more openminded and not think so quickly people would judge me for my appearance...

View attachment 107907

Casa Barqueiro – Negreira - a MICHELIN Guide Restaurant

Casa Barqueiro – a Bib Gourmand: good quality, good value cooking restaurant in the 2024 MICHELIN Guide España. The MICHELIN inspectors’ point of view, information on prices, types of cuisine and opening hours on the MICHELIN Guide's official website

guide.michelin.com

Restaurante Casa Barqueiro in Negreira - Restaurant menu and reviews

I recommend you to visit the restaurant Restaurante Casa Barqueiro. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.

restaurantguru.com

on the virtual caminos I'm definitely sticking with you and @VNwalking ...my fourth blog entry ended with "still unable to figure out how to find food here, at least the cerrado churches have a card taped to the door with contact info, not so much for the cerrado restaraunts ...fear I may starve"

 

[VNwalking]

on the virtual caminos I'm definitely sticking with you and @VNwalking .

Oh, stick with Sabine, definitely.
She has a second sense.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

11 May so somewhere between La Franca and Naves, probably before Llanes based on photos...View attachment 107936
he was on this distinctive wall if any of you Norte-walkers can place it...
View attachment 107935

I have the same "pilgrim" picture, but my guy has seen better days...he's adorable anyway!
I took it in April 2016, somewhere before coming to Pendueles on the way to Llanes according to my photo sequence.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I have the same "pilgrim" picture, but my guy has seen better days...he's adorable anyway!
I took it in April 2016, somewhere before coming to Pendueles on the way to Llanes according to my photo sequence.
View attachment 107940

I’ve aged more than that in four years so…I’m glad he’s still there, I wondered at the time if they had to replace him often, then thought about all the people posting here that they’d saved 2 oz by cutting all the tags off their clothes and shortening their shoelaces, and decided he was safe

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I’ve aged more than that in four years so…I’m glad he’s still there, I wondered at the time if they had to replace him often, then thought about all the people posting here that they’d saved 2 oz by cutting all the tags off their clothes and shortening their shoelaces, and decided he was safe

I don't always like looking in the mirror these days, but I'm glad I am healthy.
I'd like to know what our little pilgrim guy looks like in 2019 or even more recently...anyone have a picture of him?

 

[Theatregal]

July 30, 2015. Along the Praia do Molhe. A beautiful first day from Porto to Perefita.

 

[Theatregal]

Here's my view of Valcarlos, taken from the opposite direction. There must be a rut by the way where everyone stops, momentarily transfixed by the view. And of course takes a photo; this was taken a month and a day before Chris's.

Your photo and those posted by @mspath and @Camino Chrissy today, along with previous accounts of the Valcarlos route have convinced me that this is the path I will follow next time!!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Your photo and those posted by @mspath and @Camino Chrissy today, along with previous accounts of the Valcarlos route have convinced me that this is the path I will follow next time!!

I've walked it twice and have no regrets. If you have walked the Napoleon, by all means check out the Valcarlos alternative. It has its own interesting beauty.

 

[Former member 91017]

August 29, 2018. Astorga to Foncebadón.
I had never intended to stay twice at the Irache in Foncebadon, but because we had rested for 2 days in Astorga we had not pushed forward to, say, Morgade or Santa Catalina, and so we had nothing more in us than the 28k to arrive at Foncebadón.
We left in the dark to try to beat the heat, and stopped to ice Dear Spouse’s shins twice (in Morgade and in Rabanal del Camino.
While we photographed the Cowboy Bar, we did not go in. Instead we went hard left into a little bar where the owners spoke French. A banana, a bag of ice, two cafés and we were on our way again.

 

[Former member 91017]

So do not be shy to walk into a place that on the first hand seems a bit upmarket.They will most probably have a decent menu del dia that is only one or two euro more expensive than the sometimes dull menu del peregrino.
I sometimes forget this important lesson : people are people. I should have been more openminded and not think so quickly people would judge me for my appearance...

View attachment 107907

Indeed… Out of a sheer sense of desperation (born of pain everywhere) on my first camino, I dared to peek into the lobby of the Via de la Plata Spa in Astorga….. I was worried because such a place is *easily* $500 a *night* where I live. But someone had told me about their ice-water baths in the alabaster basins that alternate with hot water for a given duration… and the heated pool, and the hot stone chaises-longue… steam and dry saunas…
The woman at the desk was more than welcoming. She immediately offered me the pilgrim price, at the time if came to about $70 in my currency, the pilgrim price at their restaurant in the square, and a pilgrim price on the water spa.
I second @SabineP for the recommendation to peek in. Maybe you will splurge a little… but you will have an experience that few among us are likely to be able to enjoy at a similar echelon at home.

Edited to add: when I totaled my expenses for that trip, even with that splurge, my daily costs averaged 27 euros. I think I spent very very little on food during the day.

 

[mspath]

Indeed… Out of a sheer sense of desperation (born of pain everywhere) on my first camino, I dared to peek into the lobby of the Via de la Plata Spa in Astorga….. I was worried because such a place is *easily* $500 a *night* where I live. But someone had told me about their ice-water baths in the alabaster basins that alternate with hot water for a given duration… and the heated pool, and the hot stone chaises-longue… steam and dry saunas…
The woman at the desk was more than welcoming. She immediately offered me the pilgrim price, at the time if came to about $70 in my currency, the pilgrim price at their restaurant in the square, and a pilgrim price on the water spa.
I second @SabineP for the recommendation to peek in. Maybe you will splurge a little… but you will have an experience that few among us are likely to be able to enjoy at a similar echelon at home.

Indeed..I agree with both of you.

Late October 2014 on a rainy, cold Sunday after walking from Los Arcos I arrived soaked mid afternoon at the Viana municipal albergue. After getting a bottom bunk (recently the old 3 tier system which resembled a WW2 troop ship has been replaced with the more common 2 tiers) I sought lunch as rain poured down.

Thus resembling a drenched 'wicked witch of the west' I quickly entered the closest open spot, the dining room of the 3 star Palacio Pujadas Hotel!! Although my boots were covered in mud I was treated most royally; the copious food served on white linen was truly delicious and the price for 3 courses, bottle of wine and coffee most reasonable. Happily I dripped-dry eating Cuban rice with poached egg and fresh tomato sauce, fresh cod with sauted vegetables and a wonderful hot chocolate mousse. Do try it.

 

[mspath]

Punta de San Roque, boats

photo taken December 9, 2011



Entering Finisterre on the camino path along the beach one chilly December day I happily relaxed in the winter sunshine by these boats to enjoy some local mariscos.

Nearby at the municipal albergue I asked for a bunk and a Fisterrana certificate, after confirming that I had walked from Santiago de Compostela. Indeed, I had!

 

[Anne&Pat]

Nueva FEVE station and map on the wall, we had to walk past here to get to our accommodation in Ovio. May,2018.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

10 May 12 Comillas to La Franca, 8 am Ermita de Santa Marina on the Norte near La Revilla

(posting now, won't have laptop access tomorrow)

 

[SabsP]

A rainy day in Santiago de Compostela.

 

[Anne&Pat]

So do not be shy to walk into a place that on the first hand seems a bit upmarket.

When we walked the Frances in 2014, we had two nights in Leon. The first was spent in the Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal and the second in the Parador!
We decided to eat in the Parador's dining room, which was a great experience. It didn't matter that we were obviously pilgrims the way we dressed, the state of our hair etc. The Mayordomo looked after us exceptionally kindly and we had a very delicious dinner, not quite a Pilgrim Menu but it wasn't too expensive. The lamb was fantastic. The other much better dressed patrons didn't give us a glance.

 

[dick bird]

Least I could do for you solving my mystery of the palace ruins

although it seems odd his feet are bound if this is St Andrew (crucified on an X shaped cross) but I bow to the experts

I checked up on this. Apparently, the belief that St Andrew was crucified on a saltire (= X-shaped) cross grew up in Mediaeval times. Earlier accounts describe him as being crucified on a Latin cross, with bound arms and feet.

 

[dick bird]

View attachment 107960

A rainy day in Santiago de Compostela.

I don't think I have ever been in Santiago when it didn't rain.

 

[dick bird]

Last night in Estella before getting the bus to Madrid, we treated ourselves to a night in a hotel. At about ten o'clock next morning, this lot marched up the street. No idea what they were doing or where they were going. Sounded good though.

 

[Phoenix]

Viana do Castelo --> Vila Praia de Âncora
CP, Oct 2019

 

[Theatregal]

On the Primitivo - July 27, 2013. A view from the albergue in San Juan de Villapañada, run with kind practical order and efficiency by the well known hospitalero, Domingo. He brought bread, vegetables and other things for people to make a communal dinner (by donation). A wonderful memorable stay there.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

View attachment 107980

Viana do Castelo --> Vila Praia de Âncora
CP, Oct 2019

Ooh, is that a beach ?? Upgrade to ! I may need to consider this route. *sparrow wanders off to check route singing Beach Boys songs *

 

[Former member 49149]

Ooh, is that a beach ?? Upgrade to ! I may need to consider this route. *sparrow wanders off to check route singing Beach Boys songs *

I haven't time to read this, but here it is. Oh my goodness! My youth! It was then. Now is now. The best thing is to be where now is! And of course, to let good vibrations ease weary bones...

‘It was the happiest time’: The Beach Boys on their strange second coming

They helped define the 60s, but were hopelessly uncool as the 70s began – and Brian Wilson was unravelling. The band discuss the masterpieces they made against the odds

www.theguardian.com

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I haven't time to read this, but here it is. Oh my goodness! My youth! It was then. Now is now. The best thing is to be where now is! And of course, to let good vibrations ease weary bones...

‘It was the happiest time’: The Beach Boys on their strange second coming

They helped define the 60s, but were hopelessly uncool as the 70s began – and Brian Wilson was unravelling. The band discuss the masterpieces they made against the odds

www.theguardian.com

Local band. My hometown is mentioned in a signature song. Roller skating on The Strand, watching surfers in the early morning (and paying for it with completely unruly curls the rest of the day). The smell of salt water and coconut oil. Getting hopelessly burned over my freckles while all my friends tanned. Despite the drugs, feuds, breakdowns and well, that Mason interlude , I still hear them in my head on a sunny day near the beach.

 

[Phoenix]

Ooh, is that a beach ?? Upgrade to ! I may need to consider this route. *sparrow wanders off to check route singing Beach Boys songs *

The CP senda litoral route from Porto to Caminha along the ocean with miles of boardwalks and incredible views is one of my favorite walks anywhere. Next time, rather going inland to Tui, I'll stay on the coast all the way to Redondela then take the spiritual variant after that.

 

[FourSeasons]

The albergue in Portugalete. It functions/ed for around 6 months a year using what looks to be the aerobics room of the local polideportivo. It had a fridge, a microwave and a spindryer - remember those? Most of the pilgrims didn't, having been born probably after the last one was manufactured. A lot of the 'pilgrims' were, sorry to say, European backpackers having a cheap holiday, but not all: we met some good people. It was run by the local fraternity and we served as hospis to give them a two week respite, I think. It isn't very atmospheric, but I kind of liked that - the camino takes many forms, all valid. It is what it is.

View attachment 107610View attachment 107611

I hobbled in there on July 14, 2019 after a long 30+ k day and my running out of Bilbao fast as I could. LOL. The older gentleman hospie took his time showing me everything about the place. Up the stairs, down the stairs. I couldn’t take one more step but his charm eased my agony. Lovely place. Here’s the view just outside the door next morning’s departure.

 

[mspath]

Fromista
Canal de Castilla Esclusa cuádruple

photo taken November 13, 2012



Mid-Point

Constructed 1753 -1849 to transport wheat by barge the Canala de Castilla was popular 1850 -1870. Declared Bien de Interés Cultural
in 1991; today it irrigates 48 municipalities. Canalside pathways are used for recreation; sections of the Canal flow past sections of the Camino Frances.

This photo taken near the four huge Fromista locks marks the imaginary mid-point of my 8th CF. After four weeks walking roughly 6 hours per day whilest always carrying my loaded pack (6.5 kilos) I was as fit as might be hoped at 73.

.....All I needed then as now in late summer 2021 was continued luck, tenacity and endurance. Ultreia!

 

[dick bird]

I hobbled in there on July 14, 2019 after a long 30+ k day and my running out of Bilbao fast as I could. LOL. The older gentleman hospie took his time showing me everything about the place. Up the stairs, down the stairs. I couldn’t take one more step but his charm eased my agony. Lovely place. Here’s the view just outside the door next morning’s departure.
View attachment 107995

That would be Carlos, secretary/president of the local association. I mentioned him in an earlier post, his story is that his parents were Civil War Spanish exiles. He in turn had to flee to Spain when Allende took over. He casually mentioned one night that not only had he met Allende, he actually knew Pablo Neruda. A true gentleman. He used to watch me like a hawk as I entered the pilgrims' ID details. We must have just missed you because we were there in August.

 

[Kanga]

A couple of posts today reminded me of the wonderful food I've had along the way. On the Camino Portuguese, coastal route, the seafood was delicious. This was tapas at Becha (Galicia, south of Vigo) 4 November 2018.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

A couple of posts today reminded me of the wonderful food I've had along the way. On the Camino Portuguese, coastal route, the seafood was delicious. This was tapas at Becha (Galicia, south of Vigo) 4 November 2018.

View attachment 107997

You Portuges walkers are killing me. That looks so good!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

You Portuges walkers are killing me. That looks so good!

Here are two of the many wonderful meals I had on the Portuguese.

 

[SabsP]

A sunny day in Santiago. View from above. Rooftop tour of the cathedral.Very recommended.
Not the best angle. Posted better ones in earlier threads but still : sun!

 

[dick bird]

View attachment 108005

A sunny day in Santiago. View from above. Rooftop tour of the cathedral.Very recommended.
Not the best angle. Posted better ones in earlier threads but still : sun!

According to El Pais, they now do night time tours of the cathedral, 25 euros a pop and a very long waiting list.

 

[Anne&Pat]

A FEVE train speeding past between Nueva and Ribadesella. May, 2018.

 

[dick bird]

Fromista
Canal de Castilla Esclusa cuádruple

photo taken November 13, 2012

View attachment 107996

Mid-Point

Constructed 1753 -1849 to transport wheat by barge the Canala de Castilla was popular 1850 -1870. Declared Bien de Interés Cultural
in 1991; today it irrigates 48 municipalities. Canalside pathways are used for recreation; sections of the Canal flow past sections of the Camino Frances.

This photo taken near the four huge Fromista locks marks the imaginary mid-point of my 8th CF. After four weeks walking roughly 6 hours per day whilest always carrying my loaded pack (6.5 kilos) I was as fit as might be hoped at 73.

.....All I needed then as now in late summer 2021 was continued luck, tenacity and endurance. Ultreia!

It had never occurred to me that the Canal de Castilla must cross the Francés. It starts at Medina del Rioseco, which is on the Camino de Madrid, and has only recently (comparatively) been cleaned up and re-opened. Sadly, back in the 19th century, they messed around discussing where it would go and who would pay for it that by the time it was opened up, they were already building railways. It would be great if canal trips got as popular as they are in France and the UK. This is an esclusa just outside Medina. It is very early in the morning.

 

[mspath]

It had never occurred to me that the Canal de Castilla must cross the Francés. It starts at Medina del Rioseco, which is on the Camino de Madrid, and has only recently (comparatively) been cleaned up and re-opened. Sadly, back in the 19th century, they messed around discussing where it would go and who would pay for it that by the time it was opened up, they were already building railways. It would be great if canal trips got as popular as they are in France and the UK. This is an esclusa just outside Medina. It is very early in the morning.

View attachment 108007

dick bird,

Atmosphere! Atmosphere!
These famous words were spoken 1938 about a cinematic canal in Paris but still convey that special mood captured in your great shot. Thanks for posting.

 

[Phoenix]

A recently harvested cork tree on the interior route between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima. (I left the senda litoral to walk a couple days on the interior route before going back to the coast.)

I stopped to take this photo and study the tree for a few minutes when a pilgrim from southern Portugal stopped and shared many details & facts about Portuguese cork production (i.e., largest producer of cork in the world, most land devoted to cork growth, $$$ from cork sales, etc.).

We walked on together for a few minutes before I stopped at a cafe and he continued on. The encounter was like a live-animation fact dump/pop-up video on a web page.

CP, Oct 2019

 

[Camino Chrissy]

A recently harvested cork tree on the interior route between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima. (I left the senda litoral to walk a couple days on the interior route

I too was fascinated by all the cork trees in Portugal and especially the ones stripped.
I purchased this cork purse as a memory and it is very light weight.

 

[VNwalking]

I don't think I have ever been in Santiago when it didn't rain

You may just need to walk more caminos.

According to El Pais, they now do night time tours of the

There's a thread here about that here.

That's a beautiful purse, @Camino Chrissy.
I think I posted this before, but what the heck; here are some cork trees from the Invierno:

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

10 May Plaza de los perigrinos, in front of the iglesia de Santa Maria de Los Angeles (which didn't have a sello, sad SoCal pilgrim face as I walked down to the albergue to get one instead)...

the question: a Santo Toribio o a Compostela?


Edit: San Vicente de la Barquera, Norte

 

[Anne&Pat]

Shortly after leaving Ribadesella we reached the small town of Abeu. This is an example of the many tiled scenes we saw this day on the way to Colunga. May, 2018.

 

[Theatregal]

Crossing the single arched Ponte Sobreira on the Sanabres. A sign said the bridge was 13 or 14th century and last renovated in 1755.

 

[dick bird]

You may just need to walk more caminos.


There's a thread here about that here.

That's a beautiful purse, @Camino Chrissy.
I think I posted this before, but what the heck; here are some cork trees from the Invierno:
View attachment 108030

To be fair to Santiago, it doesn't rain all the time, and when the sun comes out on all that wet granite, the mica shines like diamonds.

However, I'm not the only one who has noticed that it rains a lot in Santiago. This is by García Lorca in Galician, I managed to find translations into Spanish and English for it.

CHOVE EN SANTIAGO

LLUEVE EN SANTIAGO

Chove en Santiago meu doce amor camelia branca do ar brila entebrecida ao sol.	Llueve en Santiago mi dulce amor camelia blanca del aire brilla entre tinieblas al sol.
Chove en Santiago na noite escura. Herbas de prata e sono cobren a valeira lúa.	Llueve en Santiago en la noche oscura. Hierbas de plata y oro cubren la vacía luna.
Olla a choiva pola rúa laio de pedra e cristal. Olla no vento esvaido soma e cinza do teu mar.	Mira la lluvia por la calle quejido de piedra y cristal. Mira en el viento desvanecido fuente y ceniza de tu mar.
Soma e cinza do teu mar Santiago, lonxe do sol; agoa da mañan anterga trema no meu corazón.	Fuente y ceniza de tu mar Santiago, lejos del sol; agua de la mañana ancestral tiembla en mi corazón.

It is raining in Santiago,

My sweet love.

The white camellia of the air,

Shines between twilight and the sun.



It is raining in Santiago,

In the dark night.

Herbs of silver and gold,

Cover the empty moon.



Look at the rain in the street,

Moaning of crystal and stone.

See, in the wind vanishing,

Fountain and ash of your sea.



Fountain and ash of your sea,

Santiago, so far from the sun.

The water of the ancestral morning,

Is trembling in my heart.

 

[mspath]

Uterga
my boots

photo taken October 22, 2012



Up and down through hell

The CF path up the infamous Alto de Perdon in October 2012 soon became churning mud. Cold white fog hid any view as alone and frightened I plodded precariously while slowly lifting each heavy boot. On the windy summit rain poured down.

Next began the even more hellish descent. Scree and multitudes of tennis-ball size stones covered the treacherous downward muddy path; rain never ceased.

Exhausted upon arrival outside the Uterga albergue I took this photo for permanent proof of all that mud.

 

[SabsP]

Another picture of Pontesampaio ( different angle ) .CP 2015.

Puente de Pontesampaio

turismoriasbaixas.com

 

[dick bird]

Madrid, 2 Sept 2015. I apologise to any vegans or vegetarians for this picture, because (apart from a tiny minority of stalwarts), the Spanish won't. This is not a shop, folks, this is a temple to Spain's culinary and agrarian traditions.

 

[SabsP]

Madrid, 2 Sept 2015. I apologise to any vegans or vegetarians for this picture, because (apart from a tiny minority of stalwarts), the Spanish won't. This is not a shop, folks, this is a temple to Spain's culinary and agrarian traditions.
View attachment 108139

it does remind me of the tienda Mantequerias Bravo but that is in the barrio Salamanca in Madrid. Your picture might be more in the centre of Madrid?

 

[dick bird]

it does remind me of the tienda Mantequerias Bravo but that is in the barrio Salamanca in Madrid. Your picture might be more in the centre of Madrid?

It is. I don't remember exactly where though.

 

[VNwalking]

Up and down through hell

The first time I went down this hill I just got mad, and kept wanting to kick the $*#@$ rocks.
Subsequently, the element of surprise was absent, so it seemed quite a bit easier with no irrational impulses to break my own toes.

 

[mspath]

The first time I went down this hill I just got mad, and kept wanting to kick the $*#@$ rocks.
Subsequently, the element of surprise was absent, so it seemed quite a bit easier with no irrational impulses to break my own toes.
View attachment 108140

VN,
It all depends on the weather of course and whether or not you are alone. In 2012 there was rain, fog and total solitude; other years 2005, 2010, 2011 better weather and a helpful arm. Recently I read the descent has since been improved.

 

[VNwalking]

In the conditions you describe, it sounds horriffic.

Last I read the descent has since been improved.

That pic was 2017, but maybe since then the good people in Uterga got tired of putting pilgrims back together again.

 

[jocairns]

VN,
It all depends on the weather of course and whether or not you are alone. In 2012 there was rain, fog and total solitude; other years 2005, 2010, 2011 better weather and a helpful arm. Recently I read the descent has since been improved.

HI! I'm about to start the Camino del norte - weather says rain every day! I'm wondering if you think its still worth walking in the rain or if I should move to a different part of the camino? thank you!

 

[mspath]

In the conditions you describe, it sounds horriffic.

That pic was 2017, but maybe since then the good people in Uterga got tired of putting pilgrims back together again.

VN,
Check out this earlier but relevant thread re avoiding the Alto de Perdon

 

[mspath]

HI! I'm about to start the Camino del norte - weather says rain every day! I'm wondering if you think its still worth walking in the rain or if I should move to a different part of the camino? thank you!

jocairns,
Sorry but I never walked the Norte. However heavy rain and/or fog can make any trail difficult to see and slippery to walk.
Stay safe and Buen camino.

 

[jocairns]

jocairns,
Sorry but I never walked the Norte. However heavy rain and/or fog can make any trail difficult to see and slippery to walk.
Stay safe and Buen camino.

would you cancel it if you were me ? Or would you try it? thanks you!!!!! Sorry I'm BAD at making decisions

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

HI! I'm about to start the Camino del norte - weather says rain every day! I'm wondering if you think its still worth walking in the rain or if I should move to a different part of the camino? thank you!

That depends on your rain gear and how much you enjoy walking in rain (seriously). I walked a patchwork so walked in snow and sleet from SJPDP to Pamplona, rain intermittently to Irache, I then switched to Norte until the Primitivo turn off. It was rain pretty much rain every day (although many of them only part of the day). My gear kept me dry (tip: a light weight runners ball cap under my rain jacket hood kept rain off my face) so all that suffered were my photos (although some fog-shrouded ones are pretty cool). The sea was wilder looking in the rain (and after the rain), in theory I should have seen the bufones but sadly that was a clear day so no bufones.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

would you cancel it if you were me ? Or would you try it? thanks you!!!!! Sorry I'm BAD at making decisions

More things to confuse you: there’s excellent train and bus service along most of the Norte, and major cities with easy bus/train connection to cities on the Frances (I assume that’s your alternative) so if you start on the Norte and don’t like it you can change.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

would you cancel it if you were me ? Or would you try it? thanks you!!!!! Sorry I'm BAD at making decisions

Also, if you aren’t taking poles I’d suggest considering them. No matter where you walk they are great for negotiating slippery paths turned into streams, avoiding huge mud puddles, making you more noticeable when walking on roads, and useful on slippery downhills.

 

[jocairns]

More things to confuse you: there’s excellent train and bus service along most of the Norte, and major cities with easy bus/train connection to cities on the Frances (I assume that’s your alternative) so if you start on the Norte and don’t like it you can change.

thank you so much, very helpful - i apprecite it!! That's what I'll do, I'll give it a shot and if I need to change then I will.. sometime weather changes! Best!

 

[Phoenix]

Raspberry pastry, Bayonne train station.
It was so good; I bought/ate another.

CF, Feb 2014

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

cheating a bit, to entice @jocairns to walk the Norte in the rain

leaving Zarautz on the boardwalk to Geteria 25 Apr
Sparrow briefly relives her youth and wonders if roller skating the Camino counts

Ziortza monastery after vespers on a dark and stormy night

 

[jocairns]

cheating a bit, to entice @jocairns to walk the Norte in the rain

leaving Zarautz on the boardwalk to Geteria
View attachment 108149View attachment 108150View attachment 108148 Sparrow briefly relives her youth and wonders if roller skating the Camino counts

Ziortza monastery after vespers on a dark and stormy night
View attachment 108147

wow beautiful

 

[Former member 91017]

I am in the deep woods of Central Ontario this week and was so busy doing nothing much yesterday other than canoeing (an otter family popped up to say “Hey! Who and WHAT are you?”) and swimming with my Beloved Boy, that I forgot to do my photo posts from 3 years ago. So a double-bill today.

On my first arrival in Cacabelos in 2014, town was pretty much closed. It was the end of September, and all the restaurants were closed. I was staying in the albergue at the church, and it has no kitchen. We were forced to eat at one of those places that serves only frozen, nuked meals. Yuk.

Arriving earlier in the season, on August 31st in 2018, Beloved Spouse was committed to finding us a nice evening meal. He succeeded! (scallops, ciperones with aioli, pimientos de Padrón, and a lovely white from Bierzo)… and Cacabelos was redeemed for this food-obsessed walker.

Sept. 1 found us in Vega de Valcarce at the very spare municipal with the very remarkable “al fresco” kitchen and dining area. I hear that the kitchens are all closed this year, but I hope that they will re-open for walkers in 2022 and that people who stay in Vega de Valcarce will again have the treat of this little gem (yes, the rest of the albergue is as spare as any muni).

We had walked through Villafranca del Bierzo in the morning, and I began to feel that this camino was the true book-end to the one I had started out from SJPdP in 2014. I went all the way to SdC in 2014, but things had gone dangerously sideways for our son, who wound up in a long recovery in hospital when I was only one day out from SdC that year. In 2018, my mother was well enough to be caring for our son for the 3 weeks that I could be away and everything was peaceful and beautiful for 2018. So this day felt sort of like I was starting to walk through my proper connclusion…

Am I alone in thinking that features of Villafranca del Bierzo echo or mirror features of St. Jean?

 

[Theatregal]

On the Sanabres, April 26, 2018. Lichen and stone - Monastery of Santa Maria de Oseira.

 

[Former member 49149]

HI! I'm about to start the Camino del norte - weather says rain every day! I'm wondering if you think its still worth walking in the rain or if I should move to a different part of the camino? thank you!

Jo, I come from a temperate climate. If I were to wait for the rain to stop, I would be housebound... one of the most hilarious days on the Ingles was about five straight hours being dumped on by torrential rain. If you want sunshine, pick somewhere in the South of Spain... I am being flippant, but you know, you must make up your own mind.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

On the Sanabres, April 26, 2018. Lichen and stone - Monastery of Santa Maria de Oseira.

View attachment 108164

Can pilgrims stay there or is it just a place to visit?

 

[Theatregal]

Can pilgrims stay there or is it just a place to visit?

Yes, there is an albergue at the monastery - whether or not it's open in these pandemic times, I'm not sure. I didn't stay this time but stopped to explore and take the very interesting tour!

 

[mspath]

Villafranca Montes de Oca,
municipal albergue dorm

photo taken October 17, 2004



Within a repurposed school on the CF this albergue was simple, but definitely sufficient.

Upon arrival the front door was open.
In the entry was a pilgrim registry to sign with a simple welcome notice stating:
.....The dorm was up the stairs,
.....Choose a bunk upon arrival,
.....The hospitalera would stamp/collect later
.....In emergency call (this number )

Furthermore,
Showers were on the ground floor and toilets next to the dòrm.
Shower water was hot, radiators worked and extra blankets provided.
Space with various utensils for simple cooking was provided.

...What more could any pilgrim need or want?

During later caminos I always stopped,
felt "at home" and recalled being snowbound here for three days during a 2006 blizzard

Unfortunately since autumn 2017 due to a local imbroglio this comfortable albergue has been closed.

...At least my fond memories remain.

 

[dick bird]

jocairns,
Sorry but I never walked the Norte. However heavy rain and/or fog can make any trail difficult to see and slippery to walk.
Stay safe and Buen camino.

Be careful, there are some very judgmental pilgrims lurking on this forum (none on this thread though). Your problem is that if you switch to another route, the weather will probably be very similar unless you go down south to Seville and start the Via de la Plata. Soldier on, you'll be thankful you did, believe me. If you think you have missed a waymark, head back, start again and enjoy the warmth and comfort at the end of the day.

 

[dick bird]

2 Sept 2019, heading out of Madrid after breakfast at McDonald's - they don't have olive oil in McDonald's in my country. We started from the Plaza Castilla. If you do that, keep on the right hand side of the main road, otherwise you will miss the waymarks. This is looking back to the city across a common where everyone goes for a jog or takes the dog for a walk, seemed strangely British. Just after this, we met a man on a horse who asked what the yellow arrows were for. Then we walked alongside a very long wall around Franco's old hang-out. We were definitely in Spain.

 

[dick bird]

thank you so much, very helpful - i apprecite it!! That's what I'll do, I'll give it a shot and if I need to change then I will.. sometime weather changes! Best!

Sorry to bombard with posts, but when you say 'rain', do you mean torrential downpours? A mild drizzle? I would give it a go, it might not be too bad, and if it is, hop on a bus, or even better, a train (cheaper and you get a nice view). At this time of year the weather in N. Spain can change from wet and miserable to glorious and clear overnight.

 

[Anne&Pat]

Late morning between Colunga and Villaviciosa, we stopped here for a drink at a wayside stop, set up by the owners. Both photos taken in their garden. Note the mini look alike horreo in the second photo! May,2018.

 

[SabsP]

Semana Santa 2016.Santiago de Compostela. Procession going into a church.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

6 May Loredo to Guermes on the Norte--oh happy day, my boots were on sand whenever we were given the option that day, and a few times we weren't (making me almost miss the ferry to Santona because I'd been directed by a local to just cut across the beach and I was, well, collecting shells). I'd spent the night in the convent (on the convent side, an entire other story, it was interesting, nuns were nice). It rained a bit on and off, but wasn't raining at the moment I reached the hill of El Brusco, so the warning to not climb in rain didn't totally apply (edit: I wouldn’t do this in rain or after a steady rain). In fairness, it wasn't a bad climb up and the down just required watching where you stepped...I think it gets a bad rap. This is headed up, looking back at the beach of Barria I'd just walked across. Despite the intermittent rain, the beaches were wonderful, and the only dim part of the day was Guermes (yes, I am the only pilgrim to ever, ever say that--people make the albergue experience)

 

[kohara]

I have a been in Santiago quite a few times but never actually stayed in the Monastery of San Martino Pinario until last month. Many of you have probably stayed there, i was very impressed. So full of atmosphere, history and loved the experience of eating breakfast in the old dining room underneath those splendid arches.
Two pics attached (i know it is meant to be one but the view from the bedroom as you can see was superb!).
The old monks cells are Spartan enough but perfectly fine, what more does one really need. I really liked the motif of the camino shell on the bed headrest. I took a little sneaky detour into the other half of the complex which is now a seminary, wonderful architecture which i will post a photo of another time.

 

[Phoenix]

2 Sept 2019, heading out of Madrid after breakfast at McDonald's - they don't have olive oil in McDonald's in my country. We started from the Plaza Castilla. If you do that, keep on the right hand side of the main road, otherwise you will miss the waymarks. This is looking back to the city across a common where everyone goes for a jog or takes the dog for a walk, seemed strangely British. Just after this, we met a man on a horse who asked what the yellow arrows were for. Then we walked alongside a very long wall around Franco's old hang-out. We were definitely in Spain.

View attachment 108230

The contrast of the rural path vs the modern buildings is stunning, as if someone shopped together two photos.

 

[VNwalking]

an otter family popped up to say “Hey! Who and WHAT are you

Seriously? Envy.....

Am I alone in thinking that features of Villafranca del Bierzo echo or mirror features of St. Jean?

Never thought of it in this way, but there are similarities. A pilgrimage town on a small river before a serious climb:

 

[Former member 49149]

I am enjoying all the photos. My store of photos was recently annihilated, accidentally, but not to worry, my walking companion will forward her set of same photos as soon as she can. Keep them coming!

 

[Theatregal]

Residents of the Monastery of Santa Maria de Oseira on the Sanabres.

 

[Former member 91017]

Sept 2, 2018…
We had a glorious walk all the way from Vega to Fonfria (where we stopped to sample the locally made cheese). It was a day filled with chickens (creatures I find generally hilarious). We ended our day in Triacastela and indulged ourselves in a fairly eleborate dinner. I do not know why the municipal was closed in Triacastela, or maybe it was just full… but Spouse found us a room at a tiny hotel and it was lovely to have our own bathroom.
When on long journeys, I desperately miss our cats, and so was happy to have this kitten as our dining companion… a street cat with a fair amount of charm and savvy…
I know that we had wonderful views on that day, but it was the creatures on whose lives my camera most fixed its lens that day.

 

[mspath]

Melide
Hospedaje/Restaurante Sony

photo taken December 5, 2013



In Melide on the CF the Hospedaje/ Restaurante Sony had great food, friendly service, low prices and much macho atmosphere. This is where the road workers, police, and lorry drivers eat as did I during
past caminos.

December 5, 2013, when renovation closed the municipal albergue, I stayed here in a small single room with private loo/shower/hot water and HEAT. It was a comfy stop for that cold winter night!

 

[dick bird]

Seriously? Envy.....


Never thought of it in this way, but there are similarities. A pilgrimage town on a small river before a serious climb:
View attachment 108244 View attachment 108245

You realise you are describing just about every town on the coastal stretch of the Norte?

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

last look back: leaving Puente La Reina on a rainy (of course) April morning

 

[Anne&Pat]

Iglesia de San Pedro, Gijon. The current church, built between 1945 and 1955 after the destruction of the previous 15thC Church building during the Civil War. May, 2018.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Iglesia de San Pedro, Gijon. The current church, built between 1945 and 1955 after the destruction of the previous 15thC Church building during the Civil War. May, 2018.
View attachment 108271

ooh, you continued on the Norte! I get to see what’s on the other road…so excited!!

 

[SabsP]

Somewhere in between Santiago and Finisterre. 2016.

 

[Theatregal]

Melide
Hospedaje/Restaurante Sony

In Melide on the CF the Hospedaje/ Restaurante Sony had great food, friendly service, low prices and much macho atmosphere. This is where the road workers, police, and lorry drivers eat as did I during
past caminos.

December 5, 2013, when renovation closed the municipal albergue, I stayed here in a small single room with private loo/shower/hot water and HEAT. It was a comfy stop for that cold winter night!

On my first camino in 2012, I developed shin splints a couple of days before Melide. They became very painful and I stayed at the Hospedaje/Restaurante Sony for 2 nights. A restful place to recover. Kind people and yes - great food!

 

[dick bird]

Sept 2, 2018…
We had a glorious walk all the way from Vega to Fonfria (where we stopped to sample the locally made cheese). It was a day filled with chickens (creatures I find generally hilarious). We ended our day in Triacastela and indulged ourselves in a fairly eleborate dinner. I do not know why the municipal was closed in Triacastela, or maybe it was just full… but Spouse found us a room at a tiny hotel and it was lovely to have our own bathroom.
When on long journeys, I desperately miss our cats, and so was happy to have this kitten as our dining companion… a street cat with a fair amount of charm and savvy…
I know that we had wonderful views on that day, but it was the creatures on whose lives my camera most fixed its lens that day.

I would not trust that cat anywhere near my wineglass.

 

[mspath]

I have a been in Santiago quite a few times but never actually stayed in the Monastery of San Martino Pinario until last month. Many of you have probably stayed there, i was very impressed. So full of atmosphere, history and loved the experience of eating breakfast in the old dining room underneath those splendid arches.
Two pics attached (i know it is meant to be one but the view from the bedroom as you can see was superb!).
The old monks cells are Spartan enough but perfectly fine, what more does one really need. I really liked the motif of the camino shell on the bed headrest. I took a little sneaky detour into the other half of the complex which is now a seminary, wonderful architecture which i will post a photo of another time.

kohara,
Thanks for posting these photos.
Many of us have enjoyed San Martin Pinario. I loved it also!
My first visit I simply walked in late at night after returning from Finistere during a sleet storm. Poncho and pack were coated with ice and I resembled the 'wicked witch of the west'. The then rather elegant concierge said "Good evening Madame I trust that you ARE a pilgrim" and promptly handed me a key to a 23 euro pilgrim room. There was no need to show any Credencial since no regular tourist would be out walking during such weather!!...Those were happy times.

 

[dick bird]

kohara,
Thanks for posting these photos.
Many of us have enjoyed San Martin Pinario. I loved it also!
My first visit I simply walked in late at night after returning from Finistere during a sleet storm. Poncho and pack were coated with ice and I resembled the 'wicked witch of the west'. The then rather elegant concierge said "Good evening Madame I trust that you ARE a pilgrim" and promptly handed me a key to a 23 euro pilgrim room. There was no need to show any Credencial since no regular tourist would be out walking during such weather!!...Those were happy times.

I think I know the guy you are referring to. I get the impression the staff there actually prefer pilgrims - they are always unfailingly courteous and helpful.

 

[Phoenix]

@Smallest_Sparrow Here's my look back at The Queen's Bridge w/ a rainbow.

I've been fortunate to have seen/captured several Camino rainbows; I've previously posted ones at Portomarín and Finisterre.

CF, Mar 2014

 

[mspath]

I think I know the guy you are referring to. I get the impression the staff there actually prefer pilgrims - they are always unfailingly courteous and helpful.

Indeed they are.
I stayed in simple pilgrim rooms in 2011 and December 2012, 2013, 2014 and always found it comfortable and most convenient. Added features are the fact that they are open 24/7 so that you can arrive at anytime, the obliging desk staff are multi-lingual, WiFi is free, there are multiple public spaces for casual conversation and the restaurant (open to all) serves a very good inexpensive 3 course lunch or dinner with wine.

What more does a tired pilgrim need?"