hikermomma04
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino del Norte 2023
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Thank you for your reply. I am planning to start in Irun, and do the walk through San Sebastian, Bilbao, and onward. I'll put Castro Urdiales oand Santillaner del Mar on my list as well. But surely you had at least on part of your journey where you thought to yourself at the end of the day "I could've skipped that part and been just as happy"?@hikermomma04 if you skip bits you end up losing a lot waiting around for transport, and you also miss out on comradeship of fellow pilgrims, let alone the feeling of completeness that comes with an uninterrupted walk. My suggestion for a spectacular walk with some great Spanish towns and cities is the first part of the Norte, starting from Irun. The first day take the high route over the hill, it is spectacular, down into Pasajes St Juan which is rather like a Norwegian fjord, and on to San Sebastian, a beautiful Basque city with a reputation for fabulous tapas. Then a simply lovely walk on to Bilbao which is a fascinating, the prettiest of towns in Castro Urdiales, and on to Santillaner del Mar, said by some to be the prettiest town in Spain. That will take all your time.
But if you want the "Camino" experience - then the Camino Francés, starting in Leon and walking all the way to Santiago de Compostela.
Right, I totally understand that favorites and not-so-favorites are subjective. At the risk of offending Camino purests, I don't feel I need to walk from point A to point B to have a wonderful Camino. And I don't want to get to the end and think, "darn, I could've skipped that day and seen something more spectacular". I'm already planning on doing most of the routes suggested for avoiding asphalt, because I prefer solitude and more natural beauty.We all have favourite sections and days, but they usually depend on our own moods, the company, and things that cannot be predicted. Many of us think that the appropriate strategy is to pick a convenient starting point, pick the destination to aim for, and then set out to walk from the start to the finish, taking whatever comes. Cherry-picking the stages and hopping in and out of taxis takes away from the continuity of a long-distance walk or a pilgrimage.
No.Thank you for your reply. I am planning to start in Irun, and do the walk through San Sebastian, Bilbao, and onward. I'll put Castro Urdiales oand Santillaner del Mar on my list as well. But surely you had at least on part of your journey where you thought to yourself at the end of the day "I could've skipped that part and been just as happy"?
No, I don't think I have ever thought that.Thank you for your reply. I am planning to start in Irun, and do the walk through San Sebastian, Bilbao, and onward. I'll put Castro Urdiales oand Santillaner del Mar on my list as well. But surely you had at least on part of your journey where you thought to yourself at the end of the day "I could've skipped that part and been just as happy"?
Though it's preferable to really rocky trails or cobblestones!Walking on asphalt is no ones favorite walk
I love walking on both, actuallyThough it's preferable to really rocky trails or cobblestones!
I'm looking for recommendations of legs that are "not to be missed" as well as those that would be "ok to skip".
The second bit is actually what some may be reacting to, @hikermomma04.I actually am not thinking of skipping entire stages, but rather small bits like industrialized, busy inner city parts that I have heard from other posters are not very interesting or relaxing
Perhaps you're just not getting the answers you're hoping to get, @hikermomma04?seems I've offended a good number of pilgims
No offence taken here! Only trying to give my honest view, having walked multiple caminos.It seems I've offended a good number of pilgims with my question, unintentionally.
I also like to occasionally go off the beaten path to explore little things that catch my interest, before returning to the main route
Yeah, I relate. This describes a lot of us.I also like to occasionally go off the beaten path to explore little things that catch my interest, before returning to the main route. In other words, I'm never going to be that person that has my entire route from Point A to Point B mapped out, with how many Km I have to walk every day continuously to meet that goal. It's just too rigid for me, and I know that my enjoyment of the Camino will come with being flexible.
Thank you for the advice. I actually was considering the Primitivo initially, but the allure of hiking by the coast attracted me to the Norte.Truly, from all my reading and my one Camino from Sarria to Santiago, if you've got 3 weeks and want hiking, nature, and interesting towns, the Primitivo to Melide, and then the Frances to Santiago, would fit most of that. You could spend time in Oviedo and in Lugo and still make it.
(Full disclosure: I intend to walk the Primitivo in Sep this year).
If, on the other hand, you want ocean views, perhaps the Portuguese?
Exactly. Thank youYeah, I relate. This describes a lot of us.
It's harder to be flexible where there are 'traffic jams' of pilgrims - and that's not such nice walking, either. On top of that, there are other visitors to consider: on the summer the towns along the Norte can have many people on holidays, coming for sea and sand. So...maybe head for the hills, peregrina! There's more space up there.
Me, too, as they are both much more interesting, especially the rocky trails, although they require more vigilence.I love walking on both, actually
Wonderful insight and good advice. Thank you.The better way to do it is pick a starting point - and simply walk as far as you can walk in the time you have. I walked the Norte/Primitivo route in 4 weeks - so in the time you have, you can probably get to the mid-way point on the Norte. You could even plan to come back to pick up where you left off. Or you can start mid-way and get all the way to Santiago. But you get into a better rhythm of walking if you just do it daily and don't spend time waiting around for buses/trains etc. And you will likely meet people that you may become friends with that you want to continue walking with. There are no parts of the trail that I wouldn't mind skipping - even dull sections have their beauty and you get a sense of accomplishment from walking day after day. Even the day on the Frances where I watched a couple pilgrims board a bus into Burgos - I kept thinking "why they heck am I walking when there are bus stops all along this road?". I resisted the urge and continued to walk. I was a bit miserable that day. Then I got to Burgos and I marveled at my accomplishment that day. As for rest days - you may want them - or you may decide you don't want/need them. I suggest playing it by ear. I preferred a combination of long/short days instead of rest days. I made sure I had plenty of time to see a couple special sites along the way, but taking rest days wasn't essential to do that. Also - you may
think" you want to stop in certain areas and arrive and decide the place isn't what you need - and chose to keep walking. Or - you can come up to a city or town that really inspires you to stop and spend some extra time. For me - it was the quiet little villages on the Norte that were inspiring, and the cities that most people wanted to spend extra time in where overwhelming for me. Anyhow - take an app, get a general ideal of what you think you might want to do - but don't make rigid plans. Start walking, see how you feel, wander where you want to wander, stay and rest where you want to stay and rest. And if you decide that "I want to skip this section" then you can do that too. Being flexible is wonderful!
Exactly, I totally agree.Me, too, as they are both much more interesting, especially the rocky trails, although they require more vigilence.
Although my feet have no trouble walking on asphalt, I find it boring. Their redeeming quality is that they allow us to look up to enjoy our surroundings without missing a step, instead of having to pause and stop in order to look around to appreciate the views, unless you are walking on a busy hiway instead of a quaint country road.
Both of those sound like good suggestions, definitely worth looking into. I honestly don't know much about the RdM but I like the idea of avoiding some of the busier, more touristy parts. Thanks for the great ideas!I know this isn't answering your original question but just thinking aloud, @hikermomma04, because your thread has triggered some more ideas.
In your shoes, I'd be most seriously considering the San Salvador-Primitivo from Leon. It seems to tick a lot of boxes...unfortunately, just not the sea part.
That said, you could walk the part of the Norte after Oviedo and continue on the Ruta de Mar/Ingles, thus avoiding some of the more touristic and busy parts of this camino while still having a continuous walk. That continuity is really more valuable than it might seem. And the RdM looks fantastic.
I agree with others who say that we are not offended, so I hope you were not offended by our honest answers to your questionsIt seems I've offended a good number of pilgims with my question, unintentionally
Here you go.Both of those sound like good suggestions, definitely worth looking into. I honestly don't know much about the RdM but I like the idea of avoiding some of the busier, more touristy parts. Thanks for the great ideas!
would rather take a taxi or train past the less spectacular areas and use my time to enjoy the best parts.
I don't want to get to the end and think, "darn, I could've skipped that day and seen something more spectacular"
I have to make the most of the days I do have
I'm never going to be that person that has my entire route from Point A to Point B mapped out, with how many Km I have to walk every day continuously to meet that goal. It's just too rigid for me, and I know that my enjoyment of the Camino will come with being flexible.
And instead look for what makes you content right now...... think, "darn, I could've skipped that day and seen something more spectacular"
So true!Some of my best days travelling (and best stories) are nowhere near what anyone would describe as "best".
Thank youSo true!
Excellent post, @Flatlander - it did bring a new angle.
Personally, I lie somewhere in the middle of the spectrum between "living in the moment" and "pursuing a designer Camino." I do a lot of research but make minimal commitments, and I try to keep my expectations modest but positive.
Agreed the first section from Irgun to Santander has some beautiful and interesting days. In Basque country its pintxos” (PEEN-chos) not tapas!@hikermomma04 if you skip bits you end up losing a lot waiting around for transport, and you also miss out on comradeship of fellow pilgrims, let alone the feeling of completeness that comes with an uninterrupted walk. My suggestion for a spectacular walk with some great Spanish towns and cities is the first part of the Norte, starting from Irun. The first day take the high route over the hill, it is spectacular, down into Pasajes St Juan which is rather like a Norwegian fjord, and on to San Sebastian, a beautiful Basque city with a reputation for fabulous tapas. Then a simply lovely walk on to Bilbao which is a fascinating, the prettiest of towns in Castro Urdiales, and on to Santillaner del Mar, said by some to be the prettiest town in Spain. That will take all your time.
But if you want the "Camino" experience - then the Camino Francés, starting in Leon and walking all the way to Santiago de Compostela.
I have conflicting thoughts here! In real life, I often strive for the best, and I wouldn't want to change that. Maybe we are saying that the Camino is a bit different - it is a place where we put aside that striving.I try not to look for the best,
As I mentioned in my original post, this is my first time in Spain as well as my first Camino. I’d be heartbroken if I didn’t spend a little time sightseeing in the places I’m already planning to pass through, such as Bilbao and Oviedo. Does this make me a tourist, not a pilgrim? I surely don’t think so.I always wonder why someone has chosen to walk the camino if they want to pick and choose and sightsee and ride busses.
That’s an interesting assumption. One cannot have a spiritual, contemplative, religious walk if they choose to take a bus or train through a short section that they know will not be enjoyable?The assumption that I am making is that the OP is not really looking for a spiritual, contemplative, religious walk, or looking to possibly develop a longer lasting bond with other pilgrims
I did say it is just an assumption. I also said, "that is fine" I also said, "People walk for lots of reasons". So I was not saying you can't or will not have one of these experiences I just said it seems to me that you were not looking for that type of experience based on what you said. I also never once made mention of differentiating between whether you were a tourist or a pilgrim. I have walked over 7,000 kilometers and 7 caminos and I am way past worrying or caring what is or what isn't a pilgrim. I have heard this discussion a million times and it is as useful as a blister. Just like what is enjoyable for one or taste good for one is boring or horrible for another. Again a total waste of time. I made the point that I hoped you learn (and again maybe you already know this) as we all need to learn to be grateful and one of the greatest gifts camino gives us is learning the true nature of gratitude. I guess you could say that the statement you made is an interesting assumption too!! Buen Camino and have fun.As I mentioned in my original post, this is my first time in Spain as well as my first Camino. I’d be heartbroken if I didn’t spend a little time sightseeing in the places I’m already planning to pass through, such as Bilbao and Oviedo. Does this make me a tourist, not a pilgrim? I surely don’t think so.
That’s an interesting assumption. One cannot have a spiritual, contemplative, religious walk if they choose to take a bus or train through a short section that they know will not be enjoyable?
I'm planning on doing my first Camino in September, but I only have 3 weeks off and want to do a rest day in a few different cities (because it's also my first trip to Spain). Long story short, I will probably have about 15-16 day to enjoy the Norte. I'm looking for recommendations of legs that are "not to be missed" as well as those that would be "ok to skip". I'm more interested in enjoying the hiking and nature experience than going as fast as I can and checking off all the boxes, so would rather take a taxi or train past the less spectacular areas and use my time to enjoy the best parts. Thank y
Heartily agree. Buen CaminoPicasso’s mural in Guernica was a must stop for my daughter and me.
No, I don't think so, either. I do lots of sightseeing on my Caminos, too and I've done some great trips to visit special places. From the start, I was only suggesting that you should be aware that breaking up stages or jumping around will change the experience. That change may be what you want, on this trip, and that's your decision to make, but at least you understand the tradeoffs.I’d be heartbroken if I didn’t spend a little time sightseeing in the places I’m already planning to pass through, such as Bilbao and Oviedo. Does this make me a tourist, not a pilgrim? I surely don’t think so.
Ah, but I didn't mention being the best, I referred to looking for the best. They're different.I have conflicting thoughts here! In real life, I often strive for the best, and I wouldn't want to change that. Maybe we are saying that the Camino is a bit different - it is a place where we put aside that striving.
Well, sure you can. But there is magic in the continuity (on many levels), and in realizing we can be content wherever we happen to be. Walking through the landscape and accepting whatever it offers is a wonderful doorway into that experience.One cannot have a spiritual, contemplative, religious walk if they choose to take a bus or train through a short section that they know will not be enjoyable?
We have to be one or the other? Who made that rule? Whatever, @hikermomma04 - don't listen to them.Does this make me a tourist, not a pilgrim
As I mentioned in my original post, this is my first time in Spain as well as my first Camino. I’d be heartbroken if I didn’t spend a little time sightseeing in the places I’m already planning to pass through, such as Bilbao and Oviedo. Does this make me a tourist, not a pilgrim? I surely don’t think so.
That’s an interesting assumption. One cannot have a spiritual, contemplative, religious walk if they choose to take a bus or train through a short section that they know will not be enjoyable?
YES!!! I wholeheartedly agree with you. And I love your snowglobe analogy. It's always what happens for me when I walk long distance, with hours for contemplation. If it happens for you while you bike your Camino, then that's wonderful. It doesn't make you a monstrosity or odd. It's what works.The journey is what delivers this, not the destination.
Thank you for this thoughtful reply. This is the type of advice I was hoping for, from someone who has walked the Norte many times and in many ways. I've bookmarked your advice, so I can look into it in more detail as I'm making my plans. And I'd be willing to bet your first rambling response would also have been helpfulI would propose that you walk the first week from Irun to Bilbao. Watch for the costal alternatives. This section is wonderful. Lots of coastal views and forests. You get to walk into two excellent cities; San Sebastián and Bilbao. And you have a contiguos approximately 7 days. Then skip forward to Ribadeo and walk through Galicia and end in Santiago. It would be an approximately 10 day continuous stretch. You would be away from the coast, but Galicia has a lot of charms, including the mountain walk after Mondonedo and the monastery at Sobrados.
True, very true.there is magic in the continuity (on many levels), and in realizing we can be content wherever we happen to be. Walking through the landscape and accepting whatever it offers is a wonderful doorway into that experience.
Both seem like great suggestions. I especially love the spontaneity offered by the second one, as it also allows me to do first one. And I don't want to have to fight you lol.I would like to offer another suggestion. Walk the Norte to Bilbao, then take an easy bus ride to Oviedo and walk the Primitivo to Lugo. I think that will fit your time frame. If you do that and are disappointed come back here and fight me.
Or… one more thing, resolve to start in Irun and to walk to Bilbao and then see how you feel. Gather options but make no commitments for after Bilbao until you get there. Just go and see what happens.
Fair enough, but can you elaborate please? You have caught my interest.I am a voice in the wilderness on this topic--First Camino should be on the Frances.
Hopefully @Bob Howard will reply, but in the meantime you might find this thread interesting.Fair enough, but can you elaborate please? You have caught my interest.
Absolutely not so.It has more history, more beautiful and charming (often spectucuar) villages, towns, and cities than any other Camino.
many more pilgrims than any other Camino.
All this makes many of us (even first time pilgrims) want to avoid the conga line of the Francés like the plague. And September is one of the busiest months.when non-Camino people or magazine articles or movies focus on "the Camino", they are talking about the Camino Frances.
This is also my opinion, @Kanga, but I last walked the Frances in 2017. Unfortunately I don't think I am willing to choose it again due to the huge increase of pilgrims every year since, especially post-pandemic.I agree with @Bob Howard that the first Camino should be on the Camino Francés. I can't explain but for me it always retains something unique. No matter how many other paths I walk.
Thank you for the explanation. Here is my view and experience:It seems I've offended a good number of pilgims with my question, unintentionally. I actually am not thinking of skipping entire stages, but rather small bits like industrialized, busy inner city parts that I have heard from other posters are not very interesting or relaxing (like taking a taxi or train a short distance to a nicer spot when walking it would mean walking down roads, past factories or beside heavy traffic). I'm definitely into the full experience of doing a camino, with varied experiences both in nature and in beautiful cities and I plan to spend every day walking pretty much the entire day. But as someone who frequently has to get my walking in around urban areas, I know that I prefer to skip that part if possible to go towards beautiful nature or quaint towns like Santillana del Mar or Oviedo. I also like to occasionally go off the beaten path to explore little things that catch my interest, before returning to the main route. In other words, I'm never going to be that person that has my entire route from Point A to Point B mapped out, with how many Km I have to walk every day continuously to meet that goal. It's just too rigid for me, and I know that my enjoyment of the Camino will come with being flexible. Unfortunately, the only part that isn't flexible is my time off, so I have to make the most of the days I do have which led me to ask this question. If I don't make it all the way to Santiago, that's ok because it just means I'll come back some other time to finishWhat is important to me is the experience, as it is to all of you. It's just how we define it that is a individual to each of us.
These things happen.I’m not one for attributing emotion unnecessarily; but something changed about half way.
Lol, @VNwalking is absolutely right. While I did enjoy your description and obvious appreciation for the Camino Frances @Bob Howard, it only served to reinforce my decision to do any other camino but that one! LOL. The idea of walking among large groups of people, even if it was in absolutely the most beautiful setting, would not be enjoyable to me. But that's not to take away from those who opt to do the CF, as we all find fulfillment in different ways.Absolutely not so.
@hikermomma04 sounds at ease with solitude. Which may make the Francés less ideal for her. As you say, @Bob Howard:
All this makes many of us (even first time pilgrims) want to avoid the conga line of the Francés like the plague. And September is one of the busiest months.
I've walked the CF five times and I've never, ever, walked among "large groups of people".Lol, @VNwalking is absolutely right. While I did enjoy your description and obvious appreciation for the Camino Frances @Bob Howard, it only served to reinforce my decision to do any other camino but that one! LOL. The idea of walking among large groups of people, even if it was in absolutely the most beautiful setting, would not be enjoyable to me. But that's not to take away from those who opt to do the CF, as we all find fulfillment in different ways.
Thank you for your thoughtful and intriguing reply. Those all sounds absolutely great, not things I'd want to miss out on for sure. And I know exactly what you mean by those unexpected delights of walking. It's one of my favorite parts of my hikes here at home - never knowing what you'll discover.if you did skip from Bilbao to Ribadeo or Oviedo, then you would miss (on a day by day basis):
1. The amazing transporter gondolier bridge at Portugalete,
2. The 800 metre tunnel cut through the hill before Castro Urdiales, a simply lovely town, with its astonishingly beautiful church set on the headland, next to the lighthouse first built by the Romans,
3. The fishing boats in the villages and charming town of Laredo,
4. Cliffs and amazing views along the way near Cerdigo,
5. The boat crossing to Santona, the extraordinary beaches with extraordinary rock formations, the excitement of the headland to Noja, the glorious walk through green Cantabria to Guemes (with its famous albergue),
Coming from Australia to walk my first Camino the year I turned 50, I too thought it would be my first and only. Fitted in between working and with many other responsibilities there were years away from the Camino, but I'm now 71 and still walking! Coming back to walk a Camino is something I will keep doing as long as I am physically able and there are a few cents left in my bank account.Thank you for your thoughtful and intriguing reply. Those all sounds absolutely great, not things I'd want to miss out on for sure. And I know exactly what you mean by those unexpected delights of walking. It's one of my favorite parts of my hikes here at home - never knowing what you'll discover.
I only wish I had more time to walk it....
I've walked the CF five times and I've never, ever, walked among "large groups of people".
By busy, which it is today in comparison to when I first walked in 2001, it means that you will see someone on the path ahead of you, and possibly someone on the path behind. On the first few days, when everyone is setting out together, and before they string out (which happens by about Pamplona), you might find people passing you, or you might pass them.
As Jerry says, linger over your breakfast and leave at 9am instead of 7am. If you do that you may not see anyone.
Well, that clarifies things. If you don't want to be around people, especially given the last couple years on your job in medicine, then the Norte is probably the best thing.I am loving all the wonderful suggestions and comments (including the different viewpoints), and definitely appreciate everyone taking time to reply.
It occurred to me that I kind of just threw my question out there, and gave a brief description of why I was asking it but didn't actually give any indication of what kind of a walker or person I am. Which may have given the experts here a better idea of the advice I was looking for...
I am 51yrs old, mother of four who works full time in the medical field in a stressful, mentally and physically demanding job. As you all know, the last 2.5 years have been pretty hard on those in the medical field. My method of survival during the tough times was hiking and exploring, and it became one of the best ways for me to "refill my cup". When one of my patients told me about the Camino, I knew I had to do it. But as I read about the different routes, I was drawn to the least commonly traveled routes. This is because I connect best, find the most peace, and work through that "snow globe" in my head the best when I can hear every bird sing, whisper of wind through the leaves, smell and taste and feel the water beside the path. This is not to say that I don't enjoy walking with a good buddy and talking through things from time to time, and I love meeting travelers from all over the world and hearing their stories and learning from them. I just don't want to walk next to busy roadwork, heavy traffic that emits gross fumes, or through densely crowded areas if I have a choice of avoiding them while also saving a little time. I also know myself well enough to know that one of the things that really annoys me is listening to constant chatter of a group and not being able to hear the birds, wind, etc. As I mentioned, I have 4 kids so I get plenty of chatter. It's why I value solitude, when I can
I am loving all the wonderful suggestions and comments (including the different viewpoints), and definitely appreciate everyone taking time to reply.
It occurred to me that I kind of just threw my question out there, and gave a brief description of why I was asking it but didn't actually give any indication of what kind of a walker or person I am. Which may have given the experts here a better idea of the advice I was looking for...
I am 51yrs old, mother of four who works full time in the medical field in a stressful, mentally and physically demanding job. As you all know, the last 2.5 years have been pretty hard on those in the medical field. My method of survival during the tough times was hiking and exploring, and it became one of the best ways for me to "refill my cup". When one of my patients told me about the Camino, I knew I had to do it. But as I read about the different routes, I was drawn to the least commonly traveled routes. This is because I connect best, find the most peace, and work through that "snow globe" in my head the best when I can hear every bird sing, whisper of wind through the leaves, smell and taste and feel the water beside the path. This is not to say that I don't enjoy walking with a good buddy and talking through things from time to time, and I love meeting travelers from all over the world and hearing their stories and learning from them. I just don't want to walk next to busy roadwork, heavy traffic that emits gross fumes, or through densely crowded areas if I have a choice of avoiding them while also saving a little time. I also know myself well enough to know that one of the things that really annoys me is listening to constant chatter of a group and not being able to hear the birds, wind, etc. As I mentioned, I have 4 kids so I get plenty of chatter. It's why I value solitude, when I can
Different experiences.I've walked the CF five times and I've never, ever, walked among "large groups of people".
Nope nope nope. Not for meDifferent experiences.
Photos, from different years, different parts of the Camino Francés,in April and May 2014, 2015, and 2017. This gives you a sense of what it's like on the Francés, @hikermomma04.
View attachment 140412View attachment 140411View attachment 140415View attachment 140416
TBH, I have plenty of other photos where there is no-one in the shot, but that's on purpose. I studiously avoid taking photos with other people, but on the Francés often that's impossible. So plenty of times there were many more people than this. Unless you want to walk later in the day - then yes, there are fewer.
In stark contrast to other less traveled caminos, where encountering someone along the way can be an 'event.'
Not really, actually. The posts give @hikermomma04 a sense of what conditions can be like on the Francés, since it was suggested that she walk that as a first camino. I think her response speaks for itself.We digress. This is not a thread about how many people walk the Camino Frances.
Fair crack of the whip. If you want solitary, then not the Frances for you. But you should know the photos are (1) at the top of the Sierra del Perdon, just after Pamplona, where everyone bunches up because they want to take photos with the metal statues across the top and (2) and (3) are both within the last 100km from Sarria to SDC where it is always and inevitably busy. Not what I'd call a fair representation.Nope nope nope. Not for me
Completely agree with Kanga, the Primitivo would be perfect for you. We have walked a number of Caminos and in 2022 we walked the Primitivo for the first time. It is a beautiful walk, well described in the above post and you would be able to walk a full Camino.Definitely you should walk the Primitivo. It is made for you. And that is from someone who has walked multiple different Caminos.
The time frame is right (2-3 weeks), the setting is very beautiful countryside (every inch - it is across the mountains of Asturias into Galicia and on to SDC), there is very little road walking, there is a scattering of other pilgrims but not too many, there is good infrastructure, Oviedo, Lugo and Santiago de Compostela are absolutely fabulous Spanish cities, with cultural treasures galore, and deeply imbedded with Camino history.
I've lost track of the number of times (in many other places including the meseta) where I could have taken worse. But didn't. In May 2019, I counted over 100 pilgrims going by San Anton in about an hour, after 1PM. It was astonishing. (I was staying there for the night and was curious what the numbers were going to Castrojerez.)Not what I'd call a fair representation.
Probably not representing all parts, but I’ve seen many other pictures similar to these of the CF. I’m not saying I’ll never do it, but it’s notFair crack of the whip. If you want solitary, then not the Frances for you. But you should know the photos are (1) at the top of the Sierra del Perdon, just after Pamplona, where everyone bunches up because they want to take photos with the metal statues across the top and (2) and (3) are both within the last 100km from Sarria to SDC where it is always and inevitably busy. Not what I'd call a fair representation.
Sounds lovely! I’ll be planning a stop there for sure if I opt for the Primitivo. Thank youBy the way @hikermomma4, if it is between the Primitivo and the Norte, the Primitivo will get you a night in Lugo--I was blown away by Lugo. Maybe the most appealing little town I have ever seen. One of those "I could live there places".
Don't miss Irun to San Sebastian. Tough but well worth it in the Pyreness and coming int San Sebastion. San Sebastian to Zarautz also beautiful.I recommend all the cities (San Sebastian, Bilbao, Santander, Gijon). No need to stay an extra day just overnight. Luarca was great but you can skip walk out of Santander and Bilbao. Just suburbs. Also didn't like Gijon to Aviles. Take a bus or a train. Other than that many "country walks." Llanes and Liendo were beautiful and the 5-6 days from Ribadeo to Compostela in Galicia were amazing. Buen Camino.I'm planning on doing my first Camino in September, but I only have 3 weeks off and want to do a rest day in a few different cities (because it's also my first trip to Spain). Long story short, I will probably have about 15-16 day to enjoy the Norte. I'm looking for recommendations of legs that are "not to be missed" as well as those that would be "ok to skip". I'm more interested in enjoying the hiking and nature experience than going as fast as I can and checking off all the boxes, so would rather take a taxi or train past the less spectacular areas and use my time to enjoy the best parts. Thank you!
Ah, it's the very act of travelling by bike that makes me a monstrosity for some on here.It doesn't make you a monstrosity
I’d recommend don’t miss any E9!!!I'm planning on doing my first Camino in September, but I only have 3 weeks off and want to do a rest day in a few different cities (because it's also my first trip to Spain). Long story short, I will probably have about 15-16 day to enjoy the Norte. I'm looking for recommendations of legs that are "not to be missed" as well as those that would be "ok to skip". I'm more interested in enjoying the hiking and nature experience than going as fast as I can and checking off all the boxes, so would rather take a taxi or train past the less spectacular areas and use my time to enjoy the best parts. Thank you!
Very helpful suggestions. Thank you!Don't miss Irun to San Sebastian. Tough but well worth it in the Pyreness and coming int San Sebastion. San Sebastian to Zarautz also beautiful.I recommend all the cities (San Sebastian, Bilbao, Santander, Gijon). No need to stay an extra day just overnight. Luarca was great but you can skip walk out of Santander and Bilbao. Just suburbs. Also didn't like Gijon to Aviles. Take a bus or a train. Other than that many "country walks." Llanes and Liendo were beautiful and the 5-6 days from Ribadeo to Compostela in Galicia were amazing. Buen Camino.
Time of year makes a huge difference.Nope nope nope. Not for me
I absolutely recommend from Santander walking off the camino walk along the coast from the centre of town towards parque de la madelena... Keep hugging the coast a easy to follow spectacular walk. First night i stopped in san juan de la canal second night i made it to Boo de Piegalos. Then i rejoined the caminoI'm planning on doing my first Camino in September, but I only have 3 weeks off and want to do a rest day in a few different cities (because it's also my first trip to Spain). Long story short, I will probably have about 15-16 day to enjoy the Norte. I'm looking for recommendations of legs that are "not to be missed" as well as those that would be "ok to skip". I'm more interested in enjoying the hiking and nature experience than going as fast as I can and checking off all the boxes, so would rather take a taxi or train past the less spectacular areas and use my time to enjoy the best parts. Thank you!
I agree. The first part of the Norte is the best and gice yourself a couple of days in San Sebastian. Great city.@hikermomma04 if you skip bits you end up losing a lot waiting around for transport, and you also miss out on comradeship of fellow pilgrims, let alone the feeling of completeness that comes with an uninterrupted walk. My suggestion for a spectacular walk with some great Spanish towns and cities is the first part of the Norte, starting from Irun. The first day take the high route over the hill, it is spectacular, down into Pasajes St Juan which is rather like a Norwegian fjord, and on to San Sebastian, a beautiful Basque city with a reputation for fabulous tapas. Then a simply lovely walk on to Bilbao which is a fascinating, the prettiest of towns in Castro Urdiales, and on to Santillaner del Mar, said by some to be the prettiest town in Spain. That will take all your time.
But if you want the "Camino" experience - then the Camino Francés, starting in Leon and walking all the way to Santiago de Compostela.
Good Lord. Three people in the space of a mile is not solitary enough?I see 3 other pilgrims in that photo, @Bob Howard, both ahead and behind you. Solitary it's not. The OP want's quiet, and the click-clack of other people's poles is probably not her cuppa.
Great advice. I’m taking notesI absolutely recommend from Santander walking off the camino walk along the coast from the centre of town towards parque de la madelena... Keep hugging the coast a easy to follow spectacular walk. First night i stopped in san juan de la canal second night i made it to Boo de Piegalos. Then i rejoined the camino
I only met one other pilgrim couple over the two days. But lots of very helpful Spanish people out walking.
I did it alone as a solo female i was a little worried to start going off camino but my god i had the best time all by myself. So happy i did it. I urge you to try it
Those are poppies?!? Wow, nicethose poppies in the field really "pop"!
It seems I've offended a good number of pilgims with my question, unintentionally. I actually am not thinking of skipping entire stages, but rather small bits like industrialized, busy inner city parts that I have heard from other posters are not very interesting or relaxing (like taking a taxi or train a short distance to a nicer spot when walking it would mean walking down roads, past factories or beside heavy traffic). I'm definitely into the full experience of doing a camino, with varied experiences both in nature and in beautiful cities and I plan to spend every day walking pretty much the entire day. But as someone who frequently has to get my walking in around urban areas, I know that I prefer to skip that part if possible to go towards beautiful nature or quaint towns like Santillana del Mar or Oviedo. I also like to occasionally go off the beaten path to explore little things that catch my interest, before returning to the main route. In other words, I'm never going to be that person that has my entire route from Point A to Point B mapped out, with how many Km I have to walk every day continuously to meet that goal. It's just too rigid for me, and I know that my enjoyment of the Camino will come with being flexible. Unfortunately, the only part that isn't flexible is my time off, so I have to make the most of the days I do have which led me to ask this question. If I don't make it all the way to Santiago, that's ok because it just means I'll come back some other time to finishWhat is important to me is the experience, as it is to all of you. It's just how we define it that is a individual to each of us.
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