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To be honest, I thought the only place you could really go wrong is just upon leaving SJPP, where you turn off to the right for Valcarlos and straight on for the Napoleon route. After that I think they're totally separate - one route through the valley and the other over the hill. I can't really see how you would start on one and end up on the other. Someone will correct me, though. Buen Camino!sergeantmajormammy said:Is wayfarer's wrong turn at Arneguy the same as k-fun's mistake just before Valcarlos ... or are there two places to get lost?
I suspect it's down to the weather on the day you're there and whether you can see anything (see Lindsey's post above)! At best probably the high route is most scenic (from what others have told me), but you have to balance that with everything else. Buen Camino!Camino2014 said:So, in your opinion (all those who posted), which route was more scenic?
Valcarlos or the High route?
marji said:Thanks Wayfarer, sounds a good day-walk...
The Napolean Way may be for your next pilgrimage?
nreyn12 said:Regardless of which road you choose, try this: when you visit the Pilgrim's Office in SJPP, take a digital photo of their big sign with the map of the routes. The sign has photos of the turn -offs on both routes. I used my photo to check to see if I was turning at the right point on the trail. Without that photo I may well have missed the turn-off to Valcarlos.
nreyn12 said:Regardless of which road you choose, try this: when you visit the Pilgrim's Office in SJPP, take a digital photo of their big sign with the map of the routes. The sign has photos of the turn -offs on both routes. I used my photo to check to see if I was turning at the right point on the trail. Without that photo I may well have missed the turn-off to Valcarlos.
So true! And be sure to be loaded up with water when you leave Valcarlos, as there is only one tap between there and Roncesvalles - and it's labeled as unsanitary. I drank from it and didn't have a problem, fortunately, but I did hesitate and weigh the odds against inevitable dehydration!mspath said:Nevertheless, it is not a walk in the park and the steep ascent up to Ibaneta can be VERY tiring.
They are one and the same!they walked the country roads to Valcarlos not the highway
Yes, it's after Valcarlos that you hit the main road. Buen Camino!falcon269 said:They are one and the same!they walked the country roads to Valcarlos not the highway
I read through his book daily it seems but I have made a point of researching all the alternate routes because I'm sure its just a preference thing for him. I like going where most don't. I could easily see myself walking many of the alternate routes if they lead me to buildings or historical sights I just must see. I'm ok with making this my own journey and not a carbon copy. Also for me I have to think about the long haul. in my 40's and have a back that needs to be babied due to injury and now a knee issue which has just popped up since deciding on a date (how untimely). I WANT to walk the whole way so sometimes NOT doing the steep climbs and descents is what will probably keep me going all the way to Finisterre.I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).
I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.
Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
Patti,I read through his book daily it seems but I have made a point of researching all the alternate routes because I'm sure its just a preference thing for him. I like going where most don't. I could easily see myself walking many of the alternate routes if they lead me to buildings or historical sights I just must see. I'm ok with making this my own journey and not a carbon copy. Also for me I have to think about the long haul. in my 40's and have a back that needs to be babied due to injury and now a knee issue which has just popped up since deciding on a date (how untimely). I WANT to walk the whole way so sometimes NOT doing the steep climbs and descents is what will probably keep me going all the way to Finisterre.
I am going late May -June (2014). Really, when I think about it, I get kind of nervous!!When are you there?
lol...Im so emotional about it all the time! [...] I just gotta get there...I can't breathe sometimes thinking about how badly I gotta get there...
But it is part of the Camino too! I have the same pull but the decision has to be made upon going. I think...meditate or pray about it!We have been talking this over too .. Valcarlos vs Napoleon. Haven't decided yet . The idea is to go the distance , yet I read that the fall out from injuries on the Napoleon due to how strenious it is are frequent resulting in "end of the trip" scenerios. The fall leaves would be great , but the vista from the Napoleon heights are pulling me in that direction .. love these kind of decisons
No need to worry about that. If you change your mind at Orisson or if the weather get really bad, the owners of Orisson can arrange transportation to Valcarlos as they did on several occasions in the past.My concern is booking Orisson then not being able to take that route. It's such a dilemma but a fun and exciting one.
Alex
But not for free. They do carpool the taxis to keep costs somewhat lower. Still, expect to spend a day's budget on the transfer, and you will miss the vistas that you think you will be seeing. Fog is endemic on the Route Napolean, so tens of thousands of pilgrims see nothing but fog on the crossing. At least on the Valcarlos route, the trees are always visible!No need to worry about that. If you change your mind at Orisson or if the weather get really bad, the owners of Orisson can arrange transportation to Valcarlos as they did on several occasions in the past.
Oh my, I better have my password notebook with me when I hit the Pearly Gates!!There IS another route altho as it is many years since I tried it I hesitate! its just after Valcarlos that I literally blundered up the mountain following an old track which after a few years of combing maps turned out to be the GR10!! To my great surprise it brought me out at Ibaneta! Nowadays I wouldnt venture it without a GPS, an up to date map and a mandate from my Guardian Angel who because she loves me turned me from a curious walker into a pilgrim!
There is no end to the Camino as the hunger to go back is always there. I think for me it is the way west that calls and I willl be glad to get far enough north on the vdlp one of these days so that I can commence to go West again. Buenas noche etc. Sean JJ74 who is now 75 and a new member I aint! i just keep forgetting passwords etc and have to constantly re-register! it'll probably happen at the pearly gates as well! Sheesh!
lol...Im so emotional about it all the time! I can't read maps or research without breaking down cause I'm not there yet then when I think of leaving it is overwhelming! I just gotta get there...I can't breathe sometimes thinking about how badly I gotta get there...
Regardless of which road you choose, try this: when you visit the Pilgrim's Office in SJPP, take a digital photo of their big sign with the map of the routes. The sign has photos of the turn -offs on both routes. I used my photo to check to see if I was turning at the right point on the trail. Without that photo I may well have missed the turn-off to Valcarlos.
I have to wholeheartedly agree! I walked the Valcarlos route in October and loved it. It is quite different from the high road, but every bit as beautiful. And if you are worried about missing out on a steep climb over the Pyrenees, don't worry - the last 6 kms up to the Ibaneta pass are quite steep. You WILL get in your exercise!
If you'd like to see what the Valcarlos route looks like, I've posted some photos here:
http://thecaminoexperience.com/caminodesantiagophotossjpptoroncesvalles.php. I show a mix of both the high and low roads, but the photos are labeled so you know which ones are through Valcarlos.
You can also see some fantastic footage of the Valcarlos route in this 26-minute documentary:
The albergue in Valcarlos was recently remodeled, and it is quite nice. The night I was there I shared the 12-bed dorm with only two other people, neither of whom I had seen on the trail. To get access to the albergue, go to the first bar you come to for directions and the door code. The hospitalero comes in the evening to collect the fee, stamp credentials, and set up the coffee for the morning.
Yes it is Annie.I have never walked the route, but am tempted to do it this year.
It's well-marked?
I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).
I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.
Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
Does it take 2 days of walking to reach Roncesvalles from SJPP?
Does it take 2 days of walking to reach Roncesvalles from SJPP?
You have made a good choice. just pick up the very informative leaflet from the Pilgrim office at SJPDP and you will have no problems. Having said that, when I arrived in Valcarlos I had to ask for help in locating the albergue having passed the arrow on my way into the village on a very steep incline. It is an excellent albergue and was my introduction to accommodation on the Camino. There were personal lockers next to each bed, good facilities for cooking, and a grocers/restaurant close by. The price includes breakfast left for pilgrims by the hospitalero. the showers are good and the albergue is very well maintained with wonderful views. Having been disappointed that I was unable to go over the Pyrenees by the Napoleon route because of snow I ended up being so pleased that I walked via Valcarlos. Buen Camino!I have been debating whether to go via Orisson or Valcarlos. The main reason is that I do not want to make a reservation at Orisson and then decide I want to continue on to Roncesvalles on the same day. So, thank you for all the comments I read here regarding Valcarlos, I have decided go take that route now. I have also looked at meny pictures of the Valcarlos area (Thanks to Google) and is a lovely place, looking forwards to be there. I see that many had a hard time finding the signs indicating directions to Valcarlos, I will have to find out more information so not to make the same mistake. Any suggestion or markers to look for would be appreciated.
Buen Camino
Chris
I am no fan of Brierley as his guide is sadly lacking and this is one other example of it.I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).
I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.
Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
Thank you so much for this description of the lower route! It is the choice we will be making on our Sept. 2022 Camino, and this makes me feel so much happier about the choice. Our thanks!I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).
I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.
Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
Thank you so much for this description of the lower route! It is the choice we will be making on our Sept. 2022 Camino, and this makes me feel so much happier about the choice. Our thanks!
Thank you davebugg for this video. That is a a very inviting route. I would consider that the next time that I do the Camino FrancésThis video by John Sikora shows the entire route being walked at 5x speed; it takes only 35 minutes to view, rather than many hours.
Thank you davebugg for this video. That is a a very inviting route. I would consider that the next time that I do the Camino Francés
Thanks so much for this post. I'm going to give this some serious thought, especially since I'd like to reduce the weather uncertainties on the mountain.I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).
I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.
Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
After Valcarlos there is a lot of road walking apart from a few forays into the woods. Walk against the oncoming traffic and if you have a bright jacket, all the better. The Valcarlos route is the original route BTW not the Napoleon. The Napoleon is a little more difficult and the views are knockout if you get the right conditions.Thanks so much for this post. I'm going to give this some serious thought, especially since I'd like to reduce the weather uncertainties on the mountain.
I had been worried the lower route would feel less authentic because the track looked close to a road on the map.
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