FaithandGratitude
Member
I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).
I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.
Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.
Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!