Those Dreary Urban Settings....

[rappahannock_rev]

I can't tell you how tired I am of reading about how dreadful it is to walk into Leon, or to walk from Leon out to Virgin del Camino..... Or to walk into Burgos.... Or to walk from Viana into Logrono....

Dear friends! The Camino Frances is not a wilderness walk. If you want to walk the Appalachian Trail, then walk the Appalachian Trail.

Those urban kilometers enrich the modern Camino experience every bit as much as the rustic ones. I love 'em, every one of them.

 

[SYates]

Couldn't agree more! I love the anticipation when walking from the countryside into a big city to finding the first café or tapas bar. I still remember walking the 'old way' into Burgos and thinking happily the first tapas bar that serves morcilla is mine ;-) I was suffering serious morcilla with drawl symptoms at that time ;-)

Or, to put it shorter:

There can't be light without darkness.

How can we appreciate the 'good' if we don't accept the 'bad' also. Buen Camino de la Vida, SY

 

[domigee]

Love your post! My experience entirely
Buen camino !

 

[wayfarer]

Agree 100%, like life, its all part of the whole experience.

 

[SabsP]

Idem here.Completely in agreement. I remember an Eastern Monday on the industrial estates entering Burgos ( all factories closed for that day ) no traffic....everything so unexpected quiet and finding a welcoming bar ( a truckstop ) open.

What I also like about those urban settings is the fact that everyday life is happening there : people are working, driving around etc...For me a good reminder not to stay in my pilgrim/walking bubble...if that makes sense.

 

[Magwood]

It was a trudge walking into Burgos, and I do wholeheartedly accept these commercial areas because, as stated above, it makes all the very many splendours of the Camino that much more appreciated. The highlight of these populated walks, often alongside heavy traffic, is when I receive a 'Buen Camino' from a passer-by or a toot and a thumbs-up from a driver. Guaranteed to put a smile on a weary face.

 

[t2andreo]

I also concur. However, depending on my physical and emotional condition at the time and the weather, I have sometimes opted for a bus or taxi to skip the dreary bits, both coming into or leaving a large city along a Camino.

I grew up in northern New Jersey, USA. For 15 miles (@24 km) in any direction of my childhood home, was one industrial estate or factory after another. There was literally more paved surface than ground with something growing on it. When I eventually did get the chance to move away at age 25, I was glad to leave.

So, while I do appreciate the contrasts between the rural areas of the Camino and coming into the urban, arguably more lively areas, I also reserve the right to say "thank you but no thank you" on occasion.

I especially appreciated the comment about getting back into being used to urban areas after being out in the country for a week or more. You would NOT believe the number of accidents that occur in Santiago, as pilgrims meander into the city after being on a Camino. Many, far too many, pilgrims simply lose their "street smarts" and their "situational awareness." Combine this with texting while walking across a street and Spanish drivers, and you have a wonderful recipe for disaster.

The conversion from rural to urban walking is very serious and all must take this into account, and please PAY ATTENTION.

I hope this helps.

 

[basquelady]

Walking into Burgos first time around, I was upset by so many people coming TOWARDS me!

 

[billmclaughlin]

Everyone makes one's own camino.

Except, apparently, when someone feels like preaching.

Maybe I'm tired of reading someone else complain about someone else's complaint about....

[Live from the Camino, Carrión de los Condes]

 

[Doogman]

I sense that many people start their Camino Portuguese in Matosinhos or other points on the outskirts of Porto. The second time I left Porto I started in Matosinhos. However, on my first CP I started at the yellow arrow just outside the cathedral and walked through the city, ending the day's walk at Vilar do Pinheiro. There was what I would call an urban walk, a suburban walk (modern subdivisions, roundabouts, motorways, etc.) and a countryside walk all in the same day. It probably is not for everyone, but I actually enjoyed it, as I was able to see a bit of Porto I otherwise would not have, and I got just a little glimpse of the life of the city.

 

[domigee]

This year I took the 'river path' into León, mainly because we tried to do it differently this time.
Yes it was different, not necessarily better different.... Just...greener in the last part.
At least in the industrial estate, if you walk in the morning, you can get a lovely breakfast in a 'trucker's cafe'

 

[SabsP]

This year I took the 'river path' into León, mainly because we tried to do it differently this time.
Yes it was different, not necessarily better different.... Just...greener in the last part.
At least in the industrial estate, if you walk in the morning, you can get a lovely breakfast in a 'trucker's cafe'

I had my best meals at Spanish truckstops.

 

[C clearly]

I do not seek out ugly industrial walks, and I might even moan about them occasionally and sometimes make efforts to walk a more attractive alternative. However, I agree that all of the variety, including those sections, makes up the fascinating whole. I enjoy seeing the modern-day Spaniards carrying on their lives, and seeing how it compares with my own home. I learn things about industrial facilities that I didn't know, since I rarely walk around them at home.

I like the fact that the Camino is not just a walk in the park!

 

[C clearly]

Maybe I'm tired of reading someone else complain about someone else's complaint about....

See? You couldn't resist either!

 

[Icacos]

See? You couldn't resist either!

A justified comeuppance to the rest of us ??

 

[Undermanager]

Walking into Leon was a highlight for me. I met my first camino donkey (not a euphemism for a two legged pilgrim posting silly things) on the way in to Leon and the anticipation of walking into the great city wasn't over in just 5 minutes. The way people arrived at and entered cities from the beginning of time until only 150 years ago is worth experiencing.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

I also concur. However, depending on my physical and emotional condition at the time and the weather, I have sometimes opted for a bus or taxi to skip the dreary bits, both coming into or leaving a large city along a Camino.

I grew up in northern New Jersey, USA. For 15 miles (@24 km) in any direction of my childhood home, was one industrial estate or factory after another. There was literally more paved surface than ground with something growing on it. When I eventually did get the chance to move away at age 25, I was glad to leave.

So, while I do appreciate the contrasts between the rural areas of the Camino and coming into the urban, arguably more lively areas, I also reserve the right to say "thank you but no thank you" on occasion.

I especially appreciated the comment about getting back into being used to urban areas after being out in the country for a week or more. You would NOT believe the number of accidents that occur in Santiago, as pilgrims meander into the city after being on a Camino. Many, far too many, pilgrims simply lose their "street smarts" and their "situational awareness." Combine this with texting while walking across a street and Spanish drivers, and you have a wonderful recipe for disaster.

The conversion from rural to urban walking is very serious and all must take this into account, and please PAY ATTENTION.

I hope this helps.

Good advice! The only time I ever injured myself walking the Way was when I hurriedly tried crossing a busy street in Virgin del Camino. Tripped over my own feet, fell and broke a finger.

 

[notion900]

I thought it was a surreal miracle to be able to walk across a great big city without once looking at a map. It reminded me of a book I had as a child called the Spy's Guidebook, which had secret signs you could leave for your friends with twigs and chalk on trees.

 

[Undermanager]

Funny that. Walking in and out of cities always reminds me of Jude The Obscure by Thomas Hardy, in a time when doing just that was normal.

 

[KinkyOne]

This year I took the 'river path' into León, mainly because we tried to do it differently this time.
Yes it was different, not necessarily better different.... Just...greener in the last part.
At least in the industrial estate, if you walk in the morning, you can get a lovely breakfast in a 'trucker's cafe'

River path into Leon???
For three times in a row I'm sure I came in rectangular direction regarding the river flow into Leon (Rio Torio). And cross it of course. Which is the "river" one? Or is it a typo and meaning Burgos entering???
Or you maybe mean Rio Bernesga which is the river to cross at the exit of Leon?

I'm really puzzled here

 

[Icacos]

......Walking in and out of cities always reminds me of Jude The Obscure by Thomas Hardy........

Oh, dear, I don't remember that; now I'll have to re-read that book. All I remember is the dreadful slaughter of the pig....or was that Tess of the d'Urbervilles....?

 

[domigee]

River path into Leon???
For three times in a row I'm sure I came in rectangular direction regarding the river flow into Leon (Rio Torio). And cross it of course. Which is the "river" one? Or is it a typo and meaning Burgos entering???
Or you maybe mean Rio Bernesga which is the river to cross at the exit of Leon?

I'm really puzzled here

I am so sorry, I meant Burgos
You can see why I easily get lost

 

[SYates]

@KinkyOne Looking at the map you could follow the Rio Torio until he joins the Rio Bernesga and follow this one on the paseo into the center. Would be longer, but is certainly an alternative. Buen Camino, SY

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

I can't tell you how tired I am of reading about how dreadful it is to walk into Leon, or to walk from Leon out to Virgin del Camino..... Or to walk into Burgos.... Or to walk from Viana into Logrono....

Dear friends! The Camino Frances is not a wilderness walk. If you want to walk the Appalachian Trail, then walk the Appalachian Trail.

Those urban kilometers enrich the modern Camino experience every bit as much as the rustic ones. I love 'em, every one of them.

i would say there is a difference between the urban kilometres in and out of small/medium size towns, which can enrich one's experience and provided insight into our Spanish lives, and the dreadful kilometres that meander through the, wastelands, industrial estates and other urban sprawl that grace our larger cities.

thankfully, the Camino has less of the latter and in many cases they are easily skipped.

 

[bunnymac]

I've twice taken the route around Burgos Airport into the city centre. I have to admit getting NOTHING from the experience either time. On my first trip I was stopped several times on my way into the city by locals who suggested I take the bus into the centre. One lady going so far as to take me to the appropriate bus stop and ensuring that I had enough change for my fare. I have to confess that on my next camino I'll be taking the bus/taxi from Riopico to the Cathedral.

 

[Kanga]

@bunnymac did you walk beside the river, on the west side, away from all roads until you get right up to the Cathedral, or round the airport and back onto suburban roads? I found the walk beside the river delightful, but it took me three tries before I found it. On the river route it is not possible to take a bus because there are no roads close by.

 

[marbuck]

I have sometimes opted for a bus or taxi to skip the dreary bits, both coming into or leaving a large city along a Camino.

My feelings exactly!

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

What dreary urban settings?!?

 

[Marion-SantiagoInLove]

Don't like cities, whether on the Camino or elsewhere. As interesting they may be, I personally get more stress out of them than anything else...
Don't look for "true" wilderness when on the Camino (better not...), but still don't enjoy cities!
Don't need to pain myself through "darkness and ugly" to enjoy "light and beauty". (Doesn't mean I can't peacefully deal with the first)

After walking in and out so many of the same similar urban scenes, I just skip it whenever I can. Bus in, eventually visit, bus out.
I usually greatly enjoy not having to deal with all that comes with entering and leaving a city by foot.
I have the greatest kick out of taking a bus if I can, and feel immensely grateful I have that option

In a totally conversational tone

The way people arrived at and entered cities from the beginning of time until only 150 years ago is worth experiencing.

...People were not going in and out the same kind of cities we have today... Most people didn't travel (not willing/not allowed)... Travelers hopped in whatever they could if they could... Walking was a mean of transport, not a hobby...
If one of these travelers came to our time, they would 1) take a plane to Santiago 2) take a bus to enter/leave cities 3) take us all for walking fools!

Buen Camino!

 

[Kennedy1]

Rappahannock_rev. I was courious about your title "Anglican Catholic Priest". What is the difference between that and. Roman Catholic Priest?

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Rappahannock_rev. I was courious about your title "Anglican Catholic Priest". What is the difference between that and. Roman Catholic Priest?

Best discussed elsewhere, preferably over good vino tinto, but --

The Anglican Catholic Church is a small 'reformed' Catholic body composed (mostly) of former members of the Episcopal Church, and the Church of England, who became uncomfortable with changes made in recent years by those bodies in re apostolic succession and the validity of orders and sacraments. If you've seen the popular British TV program "Call the Midwife" you'll have seen something of who we are.... (Yes, those nuns are Anglican Catholics!)

It aspires, eventually, to full communion with the Roman Catholic Church -- with which it completely agrees on most matters of substance -- but such things happen with glacial slowness, you understand. I do not expect Rome to recognize my ordination in my lifetime, alas. Perhaps someday.... On the Camino I go to Mass whenever possible, but never take Communion. That's because, although I'm a Catholic, I am not a Roman Catholic, and do not want to break disrespectfully the Roman closed-Communion rule. But -- more than once a small-town Spanish parish priest has invited me to receive! And that my friend, is one of the miracles that happen on the Camino!

Pax

 

[Kennedy1]

Thanks rappahannock_rev for the quick answer. Change comes very slowly in most institutions that have been around for centuries. I am a RC and have attended services in the Anglican Church and have noticed the many similarities with the Catholic Church service.

 

[FurnessTravellers]

Before we began our camino in 2014 I kept reading on this forum about the long, dreary, boring, dirty, etc etc walks in to the bigger cities such as Leon and Burgos, and found myself quite worried and nervous as we approached them. But my actual experience was totally different! Yes there were industrial areas and rows of shops and lots of footpaths, but also so many new and different things to see as well. And lovely people, most just going about their daily lives but often with a smile and a buen camino as we passed.
I know this is my experience and others will have very different feelings, so I guess I'm just saying to those who are heading off for their first camino, to give it a go and see if it works for you. And don't worry, there are taxis everywhere if you need them. Buen camino.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I'd admit there were stretches out of Bilbao that seemed way too industrial-decay in a Homicide-life-on-the-streets sort of way (American TV)...and I did not much care for the walk through what seemed to be a recycling yard at night coming into Lugo...but I got really great stories out of them so I guess it was worth it. I would not take my sister on the former, and might skip the latter as well, at least if it had to be in the dark again. And there's a lot around my home town I'd rather not walk through either. Clearly, I am hard to please.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Well for me the entry into Burgos (via the industrial zone) and that Leon exit (again the urban/industrial area) were probably the least enjoyable sections. Next year (May 2017) I will definitely take the Burgos River trail - trees & rivers are far more enjoyable than a paved super highway. As for my exit from Leon as I am planning a rest day here it will depend upon how far I wish to travel that day so the bus to Trabajo or La Virgen might be the preferred option. (Just for the record I rode my bike through these sections in 2015 and have no real wish to re-visit them). But hey - to each her/his own!! Cheers