Walking El Camino de Santiago Alone During COVID-19: What Should I Expect?

[scholky]

Hello everyone, longtime lurker but first-time poster. Sorry if this post doesn't belong here. I'm scheduled to start the CF from Leon Feb. 5, but with COVID raging in my country (US) and climbing in Spain, I'm on the fence about whether or not I should go. I'm not worried about getting sick myself - I had it late November - but I'm worried about being alone for long stretches. I was supposed to walk with someone, but they're no longer going. I've read some fairly current reports saying that there are empty albergues and seeing just one or two people on the trail. Is anyone on/near the CF now that can say how many people are walking/whether to expect many in three/four weeks?

I thought I was prepared to walk alone if need be, but it turns out that I'm not mentally ready for it. I was always counting on finding a trail family or at least people at the albergues to spend nights with. If they're not there, I'm not sure that is the experience I want for my first Camino.

Thanks for the help, advice or even the pep talk in advance!

 

[trecile]

If you are concerned about not having people to walk with, and your schedule allows how about going in late March?

 

[simply B]

@scholky !

Been kinda wondering about this myself but had not had time to compose my thoughts for a post.

I started out of Ponferrada on or about 25 February in 2016 so we could adjust that to figure you would be "in synch" about two weeks earlier than my experience. (pre-Covid...which I think matters quite a bit regarding infrastructure issues)

1. Accommodations and cafes were not lacking...but definitely more limited than my usual experience in early Fall or early Spring.

2. Fellow pilgrims existed but, with very few exceptions, they were either looking for solitude as much as I or we lacked the ability to have much in the way of discussion. (I'm a little behind on my study of Korean, Hungarian, and German. My bad!)

So, I cannot give you a pep talk as I regard your chances of finding a "Camino family" pretty limited at that time of year.

I can support @trecile in her suggestion of a late March start...although my experience of same has been in "normal" times.

a) If language is a concern for you..... You might want to check the Pilgrim Office stats for Feb/Mar of 2021 for a rough idea as to what continent's and country's population you would be walking among. (Spoiler alert: Spain dominates the numbers.)

link: https://oficinadelperegrino.com/en/statistics/

Many pilgs do speak English though because, well.... "Internet". I admit to having a problem understanding a lot of people from the UK and Australia which is weird since they have the Internet too! (Probably going to get flak for that...)

b) I have no idea whether numbers will be up this year from last. If the "call of the Camino" is strong, plan on late March and bone up on some basic Spanish. Either that or wait and see for a late September start. It is a glorious walk either way.

Buen Camino,

B

 

[scholky]

If you are concerned about not having people to walk with, and your schedule allows how about going in late March?

Good thought, trecile, but unfortunately I won't be able to get the time off in late March. Mid-February is about the latest I could begin due to work (busy season from March to November). Although I could always look for a new job and build time in during the transition

2. Fellow pilgrims existed but, with very few exceptions, they were either looking for solitude as much as I or we lacked the ability to have much in the way of discussion. (I'm a little behind on my study of Korean, Hungarian, and German. My bad!)

So, I cannot give you a pep talk as I regard your chances of finding a "Camino family" pretty limited at that time of year.

Thanks for your reply, simply B! I'm fine with talking to people with other languages - I do speak moderate Spanish, and I'm used to speaking English with ESL students. It's fun trying to work past language differences. I'm more worried about just being and feeling alone for three weeks. Even if there's only a couple of familiar, quiet faces around, I think I'll be okay. But if I don't really see people day-in and day-out? I'm not so sure.

 

[OTH86]

@scholky , in a couple of hours you'll probably get more comments from Forum folks in Europe. Maybe @Rebekah Scott will have some thoughts for you.
Buen Camino!

 

[Yoah]

Hi @scholky

I'm on the Frances right now, writing to you from my bed in the Jesus y Maria albergue in Pamplona while I wait for the sun to rise

There are quite a few people walking at the moment and I don't think you need to worry about solitude. To give you some idea: there are probably about 10-20 people in the albergue I'm in, and it's not the only one in Pamplona, of course.

Those people are mostly from Spain, but there are some 'internationals' (I met American, French, German, and Italian pilgrims as well so far, and I'm Dutch myself (nobody's perfect)), and everyone has pretty much stuck to the 'set stages', in part because some of the albergues are closed (but plenty are open).

I'm sure there might be even more people in Feb. Hope that helps!

 

[Sue Blue Mountains]

I’ve walked from Burgos in early Feb in 2020 (snuck in just before craziness really started) and there were many fewer people than in March when I walked in 2016. But having said that I still managed a little Camino family (2 guys) by the end of my walk but it was a lot more solitary than the other walk. Also, many albergues were still closed for the winter and I mainly had to rely on the government run ones, especially in Galicia where nothing else was open pretty much.
I recommend ditch that job, go a little later (but not in summer) and relish the full companion-filled Camino family Camino adventure you will enjoy then. I think Feb will make it too lonely for your first Camino experience. IMHO.

 

[Way Wanderer]

You seem like someone who makes a friend fairly easily. I bet you'll find a few people to walk with, even with lower numbers on the Camino. Especially since you're comfortable with lots of different people.

 

[trecile]

@scholky - bookmark this site with a list of albergues that are open in winter. It is also recommended that you contact them a day ahead to be sure.

Pagina nueva 1

 

[Lisakline]

Hey Scholky i walked my first and second camino in Febuary 2019 and Febuary 2020 by myself. Enough people for big fun, groups formed, without big crowds, so perfect. Made friends for life. I dont know the numbers now during covid but my Spanish friend said people are indeed walking now, though less than before. The prior post from the pilgrim at Jesus y Maria albergue in Pamplona who stated there are 10 folks now sounds like the same when i walked. I say go for it, you wont be alone. Take me with you! Haha i wish...

 

[Bradypus]

I'm also interested in the current numbers on the Frances. Still trying to decide between walking the Via de la Plata or the Frances sometime soon. My last walk along the Frances was in 2016 and I found it far too busy then. My preference is for much quieter routes which offer more solitude. There might be a silver lining to the current cloud for those like me who would like to revisit the Frances but have been deterred by its huge crowds in recent years.

 

[Aloha From Kauai]

Hello everyone, longtime lurker but first-time poster. Sorry if this post doesn't belong here. I'm scheduled to start the CF from Leon Feb. 5, but with COVID raging in my country (US) and climbing in Spain, I'm on the fence about whether or not I should go. I'm not worried about getting sick myself - I had it late November - but I'm worried about being alone for long stretches. I was supposed to walk with someone, but they're no longer going. I've read some fairly current reports saying that there are empty albergues and seeing just one or two people on the trail. Is anyone on/near the CF now that can say how many people are walking/whether to expect many in three/four weeks?

I thought I was prepared to walk alone if need be, but it turns out that I'm not mentally ready for it. I was always counting on finding a trail family or at least people at the albergues to spend nights with. If they're not there, I'm not sure that is the experience I want for my first Camino.

Thanks for the help, advice or even the pep talk in advance!

Aloha Scholky,

I think your post is an important one. Generally, I'm one who says here, keep pushing forward a little with the self-awarded caveat that you give yourself consent to change your mind at any point. With your post in mind though I'm going to word this a little differently.

I give you much credit for recognizing the health of your mind and emotions, and, your internal barometer for potentially more disconnect from people when you are craving it most. Isolation has been something I think nearly every human being has experienced these last two years and it has created very real anxiety, depression, and fear, amongst other things. COVID PTSD is not something to make light of. Long COVID, initially associated with the physical leftovers has now transitioned to the injuries to our mental and emotional health. Here are some questions for you:
* Are you willing to truly listen to yourself and abandon the journey if you need to?
* If you cannot go in March, is there another time during the year you could go where you might feel more secure (or the following year)?
* Are you willing to be creative on your journey? Plan volunteer or immersion activities in locations along the way, or at least check in here each day if you needed to, to ensure you have the human contact you need right now?
* If you go and this Camino does not turn out how you want it to, are you able to come back and do it again another time, or will this outcome further weigh upon you?

I would be happy to hang out if we were on the journey at the same time, though mine does not start until the first week in April. Whatever you decide there is no wrong answer, and it looks as if you have a good internal guide. Oh...and I think you have already developed a Camino family
Sending a hug from Hawaii...
Buen Camino!

 

[simply B]

@scholky - bookmark this site with a list of albergues that are open in winter. It is also recommended that you contact them a day ahead to be sure.

Pagina nueva 1

Good post @trecile !

And @scholky ? Take a really good look at that reference for your planned stages from Leon to Ponferrada. I suspect, but do not know for sure, that weather and path conditions will be challenging from just east of Rabanal all the way to Molinaseca.

Foncebadon to Molinaseca could be a tough day considering potential weather and available daylight. Having to walk onto Ponferrada the same day could make it brutal - - lots of pavement with potential icy conditions on much of it.

B

 

[scholky]

Thank you everyone for the comments and info! I appreciate it, and overall I'm feeling more comfortable about going right now. I'll still keep an eye on things, of course, but right now it feels pretty good.

I recommend ditch that job, go a little later (but not in summer) and relish the full companion-filled Camino family Camino adventure you will enjoy then. I think Feb will make it too lonely for your first Camino experience. IMHO.

Haha, I'm tempted, Sue. I did the same thing four years ago at my previous job for an outside chance to get into my current one. Now that I think about it, it did work out pretty well...

* Are you willing to truly listen to yourself and abandon the journey if you need to?
* If you cannot go in March, is there another time during the year you could go where you might feel more secure (or the following year)?
* Are you willing to be creative on your journey? Plan volunteer or immersion activities in locations along the way, or at least check in here each day if you needed to, to ensure you have the human contact you need right now?
* If you go and this Camino does not turn out how you want it to, are you able to come back and do it again another time, or will this outcome further weigh upon you?

Loved your message, Kauai, thank you for it! As for these questions, they're very important. I can't say yes for sure to them - I stupidly didn't get refundable tickets to/from Spain, but I am willing to give up and go to another destination within the country. But for that last one, absolutely. I have always been more interested in the Norte, but it doesn't seem like a good option in the winter for weather and accommodation. As long as I don't absolutely detest this, I know I'll want to go back and do that one, or maybe do the CF from before SJPdP. I've always wanted to walk across the entire country.

Foncebadon to Molinaseca could be a tough day considering potential weather and available daylight. Having to walk onto Ponferrada the same day could make it brutal - - lots of pavement with potential icy conditions on much of it.

Great points, simply B. I haven't put much thought into the daily stages yet, I'm more of a "let's just wing it" person when traveling. But I really do need to sit down and make a good plan now. TBH, I think I just expected that the border would be shut down and the decision about going would be made for me.