Why so few pilgrims on the Via de la Plata? Article from local website.

[Bradypus]

I came across this article today on a local Zamora website. The Zamora Camino association looking back at the pilgrim statistics for 2023. Noting that although numbers are back to pre-pandemic levels the Via de la Plata and Sanabres seem to be the only major Camino routes which have not shared part of the extraordinary growth in pilgrim numbers overall in recent years. One detail caught my eye from the statistics quoted: over 72% of the pilgrims recorded last year were male. Which is in marked contrast to the overall Compostela totals from Santiago where women made up 53% of those recorded last year. An intriguing difference.

El resurgir de la peregrinación por los caminos de Santiago en Zamora no oculta su situación endémica

Una radiografía de los Caminos en Zamora en busca de revertir la “penosa” situación

www.zamora24horas.com

 

[Donna Sch]

I think women have always been in the minority on the VDLP. A lot of women don't have the confidence to walk solo on what is a very quiet route. And the distances will also put off some. People who do the VdlP are a different breed.

 

[Bradypus]

I think women have always been in the minority on the VDLP. A lot of women don't have the confidence to walk solo on what is a very quiet route. And the distances will also put off some. People who do the VdlP are a different breed.

I think you are probably right. The writers of the article seem to be blaming the lack of growth on poor management and promotion of the route but my own impression is that the problem - if it is really a problem - is that the route is still very physically demanding and intimidating for many. There has been a huge growth overall in numbers walking Caminos but it has mostly been people walking shorter routes with far more infrastructure making them easy and attractive.

 

[nycwalking]

Safety is my number one concern regarding VdlP.

On the CF help via another pilgrim, cafe, guardia civil, and more are always, even in winter, a few minutes away.

Whereas on VdlP there are long stretches without any aid of any kind nearby.

That’s something to consider when choosing to walk this camino.

 

[Jan Runkel]

I think women have always been in the minority on the VDLP. A lot of women don't have the confidence to walk solo on what is a very quiet route. And the distances will also put off some. People who do the VdlP are a different breed.

I'm glad I walked it last spring, but wouldn't do it again. I didn't mind the solitude, but the long - some days over 30k - without ANYTHING, even water - or any place to stop or sit weren't enjoyable. I like the small villages, cafe con leche and second breakfast!

 

[Arctic_Alex]

I am so glad the VdlP still remains relatively calm as I want to walk it next year or the year after and that gives me some peace of mind that I do not have to hurry in order to avoid it being overcrowded ;-)

I am really curious on that route ...

 

[Arctic_Alex]

I'm glad I walked it last spring, but wouldn't do it again. I didn't mind the solitude, but the long - some days over 30k - without ANYTHING, even water - or any place to stop or sit weren't enjoyable. I like the small villages, cafe con leche and second breakfast!

Oh, I love the small villages and the second breakfast as well, but still I am keen on it for the solitude and the distances.

 

[Bradypus]

. I didn't mind the solitude, but the long - some days over 30k - without ANYTHING, even water - or any place to stop or sit weren't enjoyable

It is well within living memory when the Camino Frances had several stages over 30km with no services in between. My first Camino Frances walk was in a year when less than 5,000 received a Compostela. In many ways the Frances was quite similar to the situation on the VdlP today. Interesting to see how one route has exploded into a huge international phenomenon while another has stayed fairly static for 10 years or more. Is it all to do with promotion? A lack of will to invest in infrastructure? Or the intrinsic qualities of the paths themselves?

 

[Arctic_Alex]

It is well within living memory when the Camino Frances had several stages over 30km with no services in between. My first Camino Frances walk was in a year when less than 5,000 received a Compostela. In many ways the Frances was quite similar to the situation on the VdlP today. Interesting to see how one route has exploded into a huge international phenomenon while another has stayed fairly static for 10 years or more. Is it all to do with promotion? A lack of will to invest in infrastructure? Or the intrinsic qualities of the paths themselves?

I could imagine the quite hot summer on the Via might be one reason to scare people away. Also, at least for most Europeans, walking the Camino from France to Santiago feels more natural as France is usually closer to their home than Southern Spain is. If they had started walking at their doorstep, they would have ended up on the Francés anyway, but not on the Via de la Plata. So the Francés feels like walking the last bit of what really is your camino in a geographical sense.
But that is of cause mere speculation.

 

[Harington]

I think you are probably right. The writers of the article seem to be blaming the lack of growth on poor management and promotion of the route but my own impression is that the problem - if it is really a problem - is that the route is still very physically demanding and intimidating for many. There has been a huge growth overall in numbers walking Caminos but it has mostly been people walking shorter routes with far more infrastructure making them easy and attractive.

I guess that's why it was my favourite of all. Though I found plenty of pilgrims...back in 2013

 

[J Willhaus]

I want to walk it next winter. Phil and I had our first hospitalero posting in Zamora in 2017. Loved talking to our pilgrim guests about the route. Very quiet and challenging they said. It also has a lot of preserved historical sites along the way and I am interested in that aspect. We loved Zamora, BTW, and would accept another posting there if offered.

 

[Arctic_Alex]

(...) It also has a lot of preserved historical sites along the way and I am interested in that aspect. (...)

I guess here my troubles start ... ideally I should reserve 2 weeks extra for all that lies along the way ... but that is hard to do as it would feel unfair towards those who have to do my job at home while I am away ...

 

[MesaWalker]

I could imagine the quite hot summer on the Via might be one reason to scare people away. Also, at least for most Europeans, walking the Camino from France to Santiago feels more natural as France is usually closer to their home than Southern Spain is. If they had started walking at their doorstep, they would have ended up on the Francés anyway, but not on the Via de la Plata. So the Francés feels like walking the last bit of what really is your camino in a geographical sense.
But that is of cause mere speculation.

I bet the weather has a lot to do with it. I wonder if the statistics confirm that the usage trends are heavily slanted to the shoulder seasons on the VdlP and that the pilgrims during the summer slow to a trickle (unlike the more northern routes). That would make a big difference in overall numbers, in addition to the longer stages, etc. In planning our VdlP for 2023, we had to really think through what weather we might expect in southern Spain and what we'd expect in Galicia (in our case) 8-9 weeks later. We walked in the fall, but I would think Spring would be significantly better for weather planning, with the weather warming as you head northward. So numbers may even be more skewed to late winter/early Spring starts.

Interestingly, on our VdlP, we met quite a few women pilgrims, mostly walking on their own and mostly youngish (under 50) and very self-reliant. But it wasn't a scientific sampling.

When I was in a bookstore in Santiago after our camino, two young men were looking at a map of the various caminos. One pointed out the VdlP to the other and said that it is a route he would never do without explanation. I walked by and said that I just finished it and loved it - probably a snarky thing for me to do. But I do think the VdlP has a reputation for being boring, long, hot, exposed and generally unappealing. Maybe that makes it better for the rest of us!

But I'm not sure why the Camino Sanabrés isn't growing. It's mostly just a beautiful walk through Galicia.

 

[NadineK]

This IS interesting to mull over. I walked from Salamanca last July/August, and was often the only pilgrim on the route/in my albergues. There were others out there, but not many. I think, as @Arctic_Alex suggested, the heat of summer must deter pilgrims quite a bit (understandably!); while those northern Caminos can see larger pilgrim numbers in 3 seasons of the year, the Via de la Plata really only gets spring/fall. But I do wonder about the Sanabres... what a great 2-week (ish) Camino! And fine in the summer! I was so surprised to have those gorgeous Galician stages mostly to myself.

 

[Xali1970]

The VdlP is THE cycling camino.
To walk it, it requires a level of self confidence, resilience and stamina you don't need on the CF or the Norte. The long distances between towns can be daunting.

 

[markie6]

Safety & Infrastructure would be my guess. Weather too could play a part.

Possible that the reasons are similar to some people who dodge the meseta

 

[Bradypus]

Though I found plenty of pilgrims...back in 2013

While numbers elsewhere have grown a lot since then they have dropped on the VdlP. About 9,000 in 2013. Only 7,000 last year.

 

[trecile]

I'm glad I walked it last spring, but wouldn't do it again. I didn't mind the solitude, but the long - some days over 30k - without ANYTHING, even water - or any place to stop or sit weren't enjoyable. I like the small villages, cafe con leche and second breakfast!

I thought that I would walk the VdlP this year, but I found while walking the Primitivo this year that I was missing the conviviality of the Francés and the ease of finding a place to stop, rest, and have a bite to eat every 5 to 8 km.

I still want to walk the VdlP, but this year I'll be on the Aragonés, Francés, and possibly the Invierno.

 

[Jay_Walker]

Planning to do the VdLP in March. I have not even done the Frances and perhaps I never will. I have no interest in bed races and hoards of people. I am glad it is still unpopular and provides a glimpse at what the Frances might have been like decades ago.

 

[Arctic_Alex]

(...) But I do wonder about the Sanabres... what a great 2-week (ish) Camino! And fine in the summer! I was so surprised to have those gorgeous Galician stages mostly to myself.

Shhhh!

We want to keep it that way, right?

 

[Jan Runkel]

I thought that I would walk the VdlP this year, but I found while walking the Primitivo this year that I was missing the conviviality of the Francés and the ease of finding a place to stop, rest, and have a bite to eat every 5 to 8 km.

I still want to walk the VdlP, but this year I'll be on the Aragonés, Francés, and possibly the Invierno.

Good choices. You'll love the Invierno!

 

[mla1]

Oh my goodness - I loved it. I think heat might be the big thing. I left Seville at the end of March and it already was starting to feel too hot for me (high 20s)! But then two weeks later there was snow! And trees with the leaves just coming out. And then for the last week or so - it was into the 30s! I could not imagine doing it any later in the season.

 

[MesaWalker]

After reading the article a couple of times, it's notable that the percentage of Spanish people walking the VdlP is so relatively low - about 34%. In looking at the overall 2023 statistics, Spaniards make up closer to 45% of all compostelas. So if they want to promote the Via de la Plata, they may want to target Spanish people.

Another thing that jumps out from the overall statistics: the number 1 and number 2 places to start a camino in 2023 were Sarria and Tui, combining for a bit less than 39% of starts. If you add Ferrol, you're up to 44% of all starts. So it could be the growth in the Camino, as Bradypus astutely mentioned, may be in short haul hikers. Ourense doesn't seem to be on too many people's radar for a short camino that qualifies for a compostela - it ranks 17th in start location, with an 0.87% share of all beginning points. One logicial thing for people wanting to promote the Camino Sanabrés would be to market Ourense as a starting point. I can't figure out why it's not a major starting point - it has great transportation links, and the walk from there to Santiago is gorgeous.

 

[High Endeavours]

I walked the VdlP alone in 2014, and 10 years later it still remains one of my favourite Camino experiences and like mia1, I loved it! The long spring/summer days, red poppies continuing to the horizon all the way north, the history along the way, long gorgeous sunny days (no rain) and the peace after a busy Frances the previous year. I met some wonderful people during the journey mostly from Germany and France. Rarely saw another walker during the day, but there was always this shifting cohort of lovely people every night. I'm fortunate to have remained very close with 4 pilgrims from that walk. I would guess that the ratio of women to men was about 40/60. Through this forum I was contacted by 2 women (one from Oz and the other from NZ) to walk out of Sevilla because two men were attacking and robbing pilgrims at knife point during the first two stages taking all their gear as well. One of the two women arrived late and didn't leave with me, but I met her again later in Salamanca where she had bused on her way to walk the Frances again because she found the Plata so lonely. We remain in touch and I've learned that she is a very experienced walker. For sure this route isn't for everyone, but for some of us it's simply amazing! Now in my late 60's I'd like to walk it again, but I don't think I could replicate my previous experience on the Plata. Besides, there are so many other wonderful routes calling me! The Vézelay this year!

 

[M2ME]

Before setting out on the VdLP last April a number of Spanish friends with more than a few Caminos under their belts, but not the VdLP, asked me if I was sure I knew what I was doing. The general consensus was that it was too long, too hot and boring. One friend described it as “feo” and another commented I must have made “una promesa muy gorda!” The latter was from Andalucía and thought I had little sense.
It was truly fabulous. The long stages were a challenge and they weren’t wrong about the heat in the high 30’s until Salamanca. While there were other pilgrims, days were spent mainly walking in solitude. The others I met along the way were from all over the world. The one thing they had in common was this was not their first Camino. Many told me that this was one they had always thought of doing but they only felt up to it after having done a few others first. I didn’t meet another pilgrim on their first Camino. Many were doing the VdLP in stages. The main stop/start points appeared to be Mérida, Salamanca, Zamora and Ourense.

 

[Fred2a]

I selfishly hope that all the different caminos will keep their specifity for any pilgrim to find its own. The francés for the sociability, the Via de la Plata for more intimacy or solitude, the Portugués for a bit of both etc…
May all the caminos don’t look the same !

 

[C clearly]

I loved the VDLP (from Seville to Astorga) in March-April 2017 and did not find it so lonely, grueling and difficult as people suggest. It does require a comfort with self-sufficiency and coping, an ability to figure out stages, time to allow for stages of the length you like, and it helps to speak Spanish. The VDLP is an in-between choice and good training for the truly untraveled routes, where (unlike the VDLP) you might never meet another pilgrim.

 

[lalaone]

The one thing they had in common was this was not their first Camino. Many told me that this was one they had always thought of doing but they only felt up to it after having done a few others first.

Agree. Granted, I only have a sample of one. She was very strong and independent, physically and psychologically. Yes, that is the experience she related - after walking the Camino Frances several times, she felt prepared for a different experience. Solitary. Contemplative. That was her main word to describe Via de la Plata. So I would certainly agree that it might not be a first Camino, nor would many people even hear of it to start. I only heard it from a veteran and I bet that is not so uncommon. That could funnel numbers down as a baseline.

 

[Rita Flower]

One logicial thing for people wanting to promote the Camino Sanabrés would be to market Ourense as a starting point. I can't figure out why it's not a major starting point - it has great transportation links, and the walk from there to Santiago is gorgeous.
[/QUOTE]

Having walked the Francés and Portuguese I think the walk from Ourense will eventually become popular for ‘short haul’ pilgrims. It has everything- hot springs, a working monastery and beautiful Galician tracks and trails - and good infrastructure.
I walked from Sevilla and initially had thoughts about walking alone, but didn’t give them much attention. It was actually as safe as anywhere else.

 

[Bradypus]

So I would certainly agree that it might not be a first Camino, nor would many people even hear of it to start.

One of the surprising developments in recent years has been the growth in numbers walking the variants of the Camino Portugues - often as a first Camino. There is a growing awareness that there are other routes besides the Camino Frances. But newcomers do rarely seem to choose the VdlP for their first Camino. I walked from Canterbury to Rome in 2015 and like on the VdlP most of the other pilgrims I met had already walked at least one Spanish Camino before setting off on the Via Francigena. I came to think of both as 'postgraduate' routes.

 

[alexwalker]

I think you are probably right. The writers of the article seem to be blaming the lack of growth on poor management and promotion of the route but my own impression is that the problem - if it is really a problem - is that the route is still very physically demanding and intimidating for many. There has been a huge growth overall in numbers walking Caminos but it has mostly been people walking shorter routes with far more infrastructure making them easy and attractive.

The VdlP is a great, long walk. Fantastic, actually. But not for everyone. I thoroughly enjoyed it, though, as an average walker regarding distances: It is possible to break up a few 30-40 kms days. Many days are on flat levels, easy walking.

When the going gets tough, the tough get going...

PS: The VdlP was not my first Camino: CF was.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I look forward to walking the Sanabres this spring with my son, but we are starting in Rionegro del Puenta. For me, the full VDlP is too long, has many long stages, less infrastructure, and flatter terrain. The upsides are the interesting cities, and often incredible spring wildflowers. I walked the majority of the Madrid Camino last fall and loved it. Although it was quite a solitary route, I had a companion which makes a big difference. This time I'm ready for more variety of landscape and was able to shorten a few longer stages. We will spend time as tourists in Salamanca and Zamora first, and then a day in Segovia on our way back to Madrid.
I now prefer my time away from home to be four weeks or less.
I do admire those who persevere and are able to walk the whole way, often choosing to go solo.

 

[alexwalker]

I look forward to walking the Sanabres this spring with my son, but we are starting in Rionegro del Puenta. For me, the full VDlP is too long, has many long stages, less infrastructure, and flatter terrain. The upsides are the interesting cities, and often incredible spring wildflowers. I walked the majority of the Madrid Camino last fall and loved it, but this time I'm ready for a more variety of landscape and was able to shorten a few longer stages. We will spend time as tourists in Salamanca and Zamora first, and then a day in Segovia on our way back to Madrid.
I now prefer my time away from home to be four weeks or less.
I do admire those who persevere and are able to walk the whole way, often choosing to go solo.

If you find the time, also visit Merida on the VdlP: It is amazing, historywise.

Roman Theatre (Mérida) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Mérida, Spain - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[Camino Chrissy]

If you find the time, also visit Merida on the VdlP: It is amazing, historywise.

I know I will be missing a few of the cities that are "gems" on the VdlP this time around, but have seen similar ruins in Ephesus and Greece.

 

[Bradypus]

I know I will be missing a few of the cities that are "gems" on the VdlP this time around, but have seen similar ruins in Ephesus and Greece.
Maybe I'll be back to walk a portion starting in Seville eventually.

After a while the sheer amount of archaeological remains can be overpowering. Or you become a little blasé about it. As a student I spent a year in a postgraduate hall of residence. My room was in the modern part of the building - dating from about 1500. Meals were served in what had been the cellar and it probably dated from about 1300 - no one knew for sure. My American post-grad friends had trouble persuading their families that they were really eating their breakfast bacon and eggs in a room that was already nearly 200 years old before Columbus hopped aboard the Santa Maria.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

After a while the sheer amount of archaeological remains can be overpowering. Or you become a little blasé about it.

I am not blase, but I can't fit in "everything" and have planned as best I can with the time I have.

 

[lalaone]

One of the surprising developments in recent years has been the growth in numbers walking the variants of the Camino Portugues - often as a first Camino.

True, true, in my experience too. Among friends, family, coworkers - six people spontaneously choosing the Portugues as a first Camino. Really interesting!

 

[Donna Sch]

The VdlP was my first Camino. The things that attracted me to it?
1. If I was going to only do one Camino in my life, let it be the 1000km. And the physical challenge of long distances between towns. I was already very fit so I didn't doubt that I could do it.
2. The Roman history - I did Latin at school.
3. The mosaics. When I read about Itálica I was keen to see the floor mosaics.
4. The mental challenge of trying to operate in an unfamiliar language with no guaranteed English speakers. And as being a solo female.
5. The weather. For 30 years of my life I have lived in desert country or the tropics. I like being warm. So I started in June. Less gear needed. I know how to deal with heat. But I very quickly realised I would have to plan carefully due to water requirements etc
6. I really like trip planning. But I am quite flexible once walking.

I really do think that the peregrinos of the VdlP are a bit different. The chap I met also doing his first Camino had a similar mentality to me (and he started on the Mozárabe) with the "if I am going to do a Camino, let's do the longest one I can find".

 

[Anniesantiago]

I want to walk it next winter. Phil and I had our first hospitalero posting in Zamora in 2017. Loved talking to our pilgrim guests about the route. Very quiet and challenging they said. It also has a lot of preserved historical sites along the way and I am interested in that aspect. We loved Zamora, BTW, and would accept another posting there if offered.

i also loved Zamora

 

[MesaWalker]

Zamora was fantastic, including the cathedral and river area. And they have a great Decathlon store if you happen to hit it at the beginning of a month of rain and need more robust raingear!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Going back to the original question. Has there been a decrease in expatriate pilgrims on the VdlP? I woulldn't expect an increase from Spanish pilgrims. The vast majority seem to prefer shorter camino fiishing in Santiago in the holidays.
If only that wonderful albergue on the embalse could be re-opened. That would have some impact, I think.

 

[C clearly]

I suspect that pilgrims on the VDLP are less likely to get Compostelas, for various reasons, so they are more unreported than pilgrims on the shorter routes ending in Santiago.

 

[OZAJ]

Mozarabe/VdlP/Sanabres was my first, Starting early April 2008.

Why?

Tony Kevin's book. I read a review in the SMH and bought the book. Tony started in Granada, I started Malaga.

I was in my 50s and not terribly fit, but not too dilapidated. My headspace was good, and this I believe was crucial for a first timer on this route at this time. I had done a 4 week intensive Spanish course which was particularly helpful on the Mozarabe where I met no other pilgrims and one Spanish schoolboy who had some English. He was keen to practise and his father appreciated my efforts to help him.

I LOVED IT!!!!!

 

[camino07]

For me the ideal time to start the VDLP is just after Easter up to the middle of April. Coming from Australia I like a long, varied Camino. I will be starting my 4th time this April. I found more women walking it in recent years than in 2012 ,my first from Seville. There is just the right amount of pilgrims to bond with in the evenings. I no longer pick up a Compostela. Unless I'm walking a new path.

 

[Donna Sch]

Mozarabe/VdlP/Sanabres was my first, Starting early April 2008.

Why?

Tony Kevin's book. I read a review in the SMH and bought the book. Tony started in Granada, I started Malaga.

I was in my 50s and not terribly fit, but not too dilapidated. My headspace was good, and this I believe was crucial for a first timer on this route at this time. I had done a 4 week intensive Spanish course which was particularly helpful on the Mozarabe where I met no other pilgrims and one Spanish schoolboy who had some English. He was keen to practise and his father appreciated my efforts to help him.

I LOVED IT!!!!!

That book is excellent. I read it before I left but played chapters again as an audiobook after I left. It really helped me make sense of certain things I had seen and appreciate the impact of Franco.

 

[RodlaRob]

yes a great read that Book.... from 2006!. Read it years ago & planned the Vdlp but eventually did Camino Torres.
Now reading it again prior to leaving Sevilla on 1st March.
Tony joined the Vdlp in Merida.

 

[Bradypus]

Going back to the original question. Has there been a decrease in expatriate pilgrims on the VdlP? I woulldn't expect an increase from Spanish pilgrims. The vast majority seem to prefer shorter camino fiishing in Santiago in the holidays.

Interesting question. I had a look at the pilgrim office statistics back to 2003. As you might expect Spanish pilgrims dominated the tables in 2003 (73% of those recorded on the VdlP that year) but then Spanish pilgrims were still 60% of the total for all routes that year. The percentage of Spanish pilgrims has stayed pretty high on the VdlP - well above the percentage seen over all routes. Consistently close to 60% on the VdlP since 2008 although Spanish pilgrims are now only 44% of those who receive a Compostela. I looked at the figures for 2013 as @Harington mentioned that year in particular. Then compared them with 2023. A overall drop in numbers for both Spanish and foreign pilgrims. Only a small change in the ratio.

One small detail did stand out from the statistics. In the past few years the percentage of Americans recorded in the overall Compostela statistics has risen enormously and they are now the largest single non-Spanish nationality - 7.29% last year. But only 2.84% of those recorded as having walked the VdlP last year were Americans. Clearly the increasing numbers from the USA are not evenly spread across the Camino routes.

2013 VdlP numbers


2023 VdlP numbers

 

[Bradypus]

A couple of graphics from the excellent Solviturambulando statistics page. Just to compare the continuing growth in numbers overall across all Caminos (first image) since 2003 with the apparent peaking of interest in walking the Via de la Plata.

 

[Donna Sch]

Zamora was fantastic, including the cathedral and river area. And they have a great Decathlon store if you happen to hit it at the beginning of a month of rain and need more robust raingear!

Walking into Zamora is the best. Whether via the VdlP or the Levante, it really is a spectacular entry.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Interesting question. I had a look at the pilgrim office statistics back to 2003. As you might expect Spanish pilgrims dominated the tables in 2003 (73% of those recorded on the VdlP that year) but then Spanish pilgrims were still 60% of the total for all routes that year. The percentage of Spanish pilgrims has stayed pretty high on the VdlP - well above the percentage seen over all routes. Consistently close to 60% on the VdlP since 2008 although Spanish pilgrims are now only 44% of those who receive a Compostela. I looked at the figures for 2013 as @Harington mentioned that year in particular. Then compared them with 2023. A overall drop in numbers for both Spanish and foreign pilgrims. Only a small change in the ratio.

One small detail did stand out from the statistics. In the past few years the percentage of Americans recorded in the overall Compostela statistics has risen enormously and they are now the largest single non-Spanish nationality - 7.29% last year. But only 2.84% of those recorded as having walked the VdlP last year were Americans. Clearly the increasing numbers from the USA are not evenly spread across the Camino routes.

2013 VdlP numbers
View attachment 163785

2023 VdlP numbers
View attachment 163786

An interesting anomaly is that the overall drop in pilgrim numbers appears be due to fewer pilgrims from the top 3 countries. Most other countries show small increases, my own included.

 

[Dani7]

A couple of graphics from the excellent Solviturambulando statistics page. Just to compare the continuing growth in numbers overall across all Caminos (first image) since 2003 with the apparent peaking of interest in walking the Via de la Plata.

View attachment 163788 View attachment 163789

The % in 2010 reflect when the movie “The Way” came out.

 

[Bradypus]

The % in 2010 reflect when the movie “The Way” came out.

I think that is probably more to do with 2010 being a Holy Year! The movie didn't have its international premiere until a festival in Toronto in September 2010 and didn't go on general release in cinemas until summer 2011 in the UK and autumn 2011 in the US and Canada.

 

[Giorgio99]

I'm glad I walked it last spring, but wouldn't do it again. I didn't mind the solitude, but the long - some days over 30k - without ANYTHING, even water - or any place to stop or sit weren't enjoyable. I like the small villages, cafe con leche and second breakfast!

I thought I’d invented second breakfast . We start on Monday

 

[Juno]

I’m doing the VDLP in stages. I’m not sure how I feel about it yet and I’ve reached Zamora so far. I’m going back to Zamora on the 2nd June to do the camino Sanabres from Zamora to Santiago, about 20 days. Last year I went through endless Estancias, each with gates that required working out how to open them as each was securely fastened but in numerous ways. In one area, a Goat’s skull and further along a haunch! Then another goat on its last legs and it dawned on me that I was in the middle of nowhere and no signal. It was a bit of a wake up moment haha!
It was also the day when I went an extra two and a half hours further than I meant to walk and as I’d booked a room I had to wait till I finally came across a Bar and a rather expensive taxi ride back to my hostel. Anyway there are some walks I didn’t enjoy some I did but I met lots more pilgrims than I expected, especially in May but less in September and as most of the stops are in one horse towns, all of us would eat in the same places which was great fun. I’m looking forward to the next and final stage which hopefully will have a little more, dare I say it, infrastructure and also hopefully a little more hilly.

 

[dailycamino]

I came across this article today on a local Zamora website. The Zamora Camino association looking back at the pilgrim statistics for 2023. Noting that although numbers are back to pre-pandemic levels the Via de la Plata and Sanabres seem to be the only major Camino routes which have not shared part of the extraordinary growth in pilgrim numbers overall in recent years. One detail caught my eye from the statistics quoted: over 72% of the pilgrims recorded last year were male. Which is in marked contrast to the overall Compostela totals from Santiago where women made up 53% of those recorded last year. An intriguing difference.

El resurgir de la peregrinación por los caminos de Santiago en Zamora no oculta su situación endémica

Una radiografía de los Caminos en Zamora en busca de revertir la “penosa” situación

www.zamora24horas.com

Thanks for sharing this as I'm giving it serious consideration as the front runner for my upcoming trip!

 

[WGroleau]

I biked from Zamora to La Bañeza, stopping in Vilar de Farfón. Saw no one between villages (and not many villages).

 

[Rita Flower]

That book is excellent. I read it before I left but played chapters again as an audiobook after I left. It really helped me make sense of certain things I had seen and appreciate the impact of Franco.

I read the book before I walked the VDLP. It gave me a deeper understanding of Spain, its history and people.

 

[Kev&Kath]

I am so glad the VdlP still remains relatively calm as I want to walk it next year or the year after and that gives me some peace of mind that I do not have to hurry in order to avoid it being overcrowded ;-)

I am really curious on that route ...

My wife and I walked the VdlP (and started in Cadiz to Seville on the Via Augusta) in April/June last year. We loved it so much that our focus now is on the Camino del Sureste - out of Alicante. While much quieter than the Frances we still met a good few pilgrims on the path...but...most days were quite solitary. We thought the walk was pretty easy overall - only recalling one particularly hard segment...the final 5km into Canaveral. That was a severe challenge for me lol. You will thoroughly enjoy Alex! Buen Camino.

 

[Flog]

I loved the VDLP, everything about it.. Such an epic, atmospheric camino, so far removed from the comforts of the Camino Frances: the surreal landscapes in the early days of miniature oaks and black pigs, the astonishing, well preserved roman architecture. The vastness of it all, with the sometimes daunting prospect of a couple of 40km stages back to back with nothing, not even water along the way ahead. Some days it really felt like deep, rural Spain.. I would walk it again in a heartbeat.

I am a bit surprised, as others have said, that Ourense hasn't taken off as a starting point for a shorter camino route into Santiago.

 

[Flog]

Depends on how much time you have.
The stages can be broken up.
I think I only walked 2-3 days over 25 kms and none over 30.

I don't know how the infrastructure compares to six years ago when I walked it, but there were some proper long days then, with no practical alternative options. I loved that challenge then, but I can quite understand that not everyone feels that way..

 

[walkabouts]

I suspect that pilgrims on the VDLP are less likely to get Compostelas, for various reasons, so they are more unreported than pilgrims on the shorter routes ending in Santiago.

we would agree with that statement. There were still quite a number of walkers on the VDLP in Apr-Jun 2023, but many did not or were not walking the entire camino, just doing parts of it with the time they had available. Many end their walk in Astorga, or Salamanca, or Merida. We walked from Seville to Oviedo from 26 Apr to 7 July so we were never going to get a Compostela in Santiago. However, we did get one in Oviedo instead. After a few caminos, this is not the main goal for many repeat walkers so I suggest the data is only a reliable estimate of those wanting a Compostela on arrival.

 

[Sirage]

Of course we all have our preferences and our personal sense of "busy or crowded".

After walking the Mozarabe from Almeria last year, I found then joining the VDLP relatively quite busy and social, and easily walkable without carrying food (although I did take a bus from Caceres to Canaveral - the temperature that day was one I did not need to endure and there were many days ahead), then the Sanabres was quieter (I guess some went to Astorga) but always enough pilgrims each night for good company without the hustle and bustle on the "main !!" routes.

I suspect all the rapid growth in numbers overall is from a demographic that is wanting a different and less challenging experience (even perhaps are more risk averse) than the demographic that reinvigorated the Camino a few decades ago. And, perhaps those that can't travel without access to the best coffee and pastries every morning

PS: I haven't got a Compostela for my last few Caminos.

 

[Robo]

A thought provoking article.

The VdlP is an 'interesting' route for sure.
It has a certain mystique about it.
I was certainly apprehensive about walking it, but did a lot of research before hand.

I have not walked the Sanbres section, but only the route from Sevilla to Astorga.

Some thoughts...........

Why do many people not attempt the VdlP?
Maybe because they believe:

1. It's long in comparison to other routes and so takes time and a level of commitment.
2. The stages can be long, often (usually) without intermediate facilities.
3. The landscape can be boring like one long Meseta!
4. It will be too lonely.
5. Due to the remoteness personal safety might be a concern.
6. It will require a high level of fitness and stamina.
7. It will require a heavy pack for additional gear, food, water.......

The Reality, for me at least.

1. Yes it's long, but that was part of the appeal. Most of the Pligrims I met were walking about 1,000 kms.
2. The stages 'appear' long but there are many options. The Logistics and Planning requires a bit more thought than routes like the Frances, but I managed to keep all my days below 25 kms, bar 2 or 3.
3. What surprised me was the quality and ease of the walking. Yes it's a long way, but much of the walking is on the flat or gentle hills and much on natural paths. The walking was a joy.
4. The landscape was amazing and varied. Sure, a lot is flat and open, but I loved that. And there is a mix of forests, lush farmland, paddocks full of animals. It was a delight. Even the long stretch out of Salamanca past the prison was a nice walk on a great path!
5. Personal safety was at the back of my mind a couple of times. (But I'm male) So it was more about hydration on lonely sections, and making sure I did not get injured. A broken ankle climbing up some rocks for a better view could have led to sitting there for hours till someone came a long. So I was much more 'careful'.
6. Fitness and stamina? It certainly attracts a few of what I refer to as 'Pro Pilgrms'. Those who are really fit, walk fast with ultralite packs and easily cover 35-40 km sections. One cheery Pilgrim passed me saying "see you in Merida". That was a 46 km walk. No way Jose! (2 days for me) But this relatively unfit and overweight Pilgrim managed just fine walking shorter days..
7. Pack weight? I envy those who can walk with what looked like a 12-15 L pack! (P from Switzerland) But you just need to be sensible and pack light, and be able to carry 2 litres of water and a snack. (more water if in hot weather)

What will make the VdlP more 'attractive?

I think those who love it, love it because it's fairly remote, offers wonderful solitude and is a bit of a challenge.

But that does not help local businesses I suppose.

Will benches and better signage draw more Pilgrims? I doubt it. I'm sure they don't influence route choice. By comparison, I have never seen so many signs and benches as on the Invierno! but (a) I didn't need them and (b) there were hardly any Pilgrims on the route.

So what does influence route choice?
It's probbaly things like more accomodation options, and luggage transfer.
I did meet three Spanish Pilgrims transferring bags each day by taxi. Get's expensive!

For any investment in additional infrastructure to be justified, such as providing more Albergues, more private accomodation or services such as luggage transport, it might require the Pilgrim numbers to increase exponentially. A bit of a cart and horse scenario?

Build it and they will come, or build it as slow organic growth justifies it?

We are indeed very lucky that there are so many different Camino routes to suit all tastes.
After the VdlP I certainly have a taste for the remote ones now, and hope to work through a few more in years to come.

There are some routes I'm sure that will always offer that remoteness and solitude that many seek.

Having walked the Invierno recently, and hardly meeting a single Pilgrim in 2 weeks, I loved that too.
But that route, because of it's location near Santiago, wonderful scenary, distance and as an alternative 'finish' to the Frances is sure to draw much larger numbers of Pilgrims in the next few years. Walk it while you can.

 

[mla1]

Walking into Zamora is the best. Whether via the VdlP or the Levante, it really is a spectacular entry.

My favourite Camino city!

 

[Editha]

I came across this article today on a local Zamora website. The Zamora Camino association looking back at the pilgrim statistics for 2023. Noting that although numbers are back to pre-pandemic levels the Via de la Plata and Sanabres seem to be the only major Camino routes which have not shared part of the extraordinary growth in pilgrim numbers overall in recent years. One detail caught my eye from the statistics quoted: over 72% of the pilgrims recorded last year were male. Which is in marked contrast to the overall Compostela totals from Santiago where women made up 53% of those recorded last year. An intriguing difference.

El resurgir de la peregrinación por los caminos de Santiago en Zamora no oculta su situación endémica

Una radiografía de los Caminos en Zamora en busca de revertir la “penosa” situación

www.zamora24horas.com

I like the VdlP so much. I walked with a friend, so even if you meet few pilgrims, you are not feeling alone. I think it is one of the most interessant Caminos. You find so many historical spots of different times - Sevilla, Zafra, Merida, Caceres, Zamora, Salamanca, Ourense - than means Roman time, Middle Ages, Renaissance, modern times. And you also find so many different landscapes - "bread land", the fascinating dehesas, the wine region, the green of Galicia. And I loved this change of walking calm in the nature and than discovering the cities. May be it is not so comfortable like many other caminos but it is worth to go there, May be it gives you the real feeling what it means to pilgrimage!
If you need some inspirations, look in my blog.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Why do many people not attempt the VdlP?
Maybe because they believe:

1. It's long in comparison to other routes and so takes time and a level of commitment.

Actually, Robo, I thing #1 should be
Most people, when first learning about the camino, think that it is the Camino Fránces.

 

[Arctic_Alex]

Actually, Robo, I thing #1 should be
Most people, when first learning about the camino, think that it is the Camino Fránces.

True. More than once I heard oh, there is more than one? Even among pilgrims on the Francés...

 

[Flog]

True. More than once I heard oh, there is more than one? Even among pilgrims on the Francés...

On my first camino, ten days into my walk on the Frances from Leon, I met a couple of 'new' pilgrims at Melide, shell-shocked at coming off the relative tranquility of the Primitivo, as they told me, even though the Frances wasn't all that busy then.

'What is this Primitivo you speak of?' I wondered at the time...

We all have to start somewhere, we were all new once..

 

[markie6]

I like Jerks (Robo) list from earlier in the thread. You could spin it around in a way and say what has made the Frances so easy ?

If there were not so many albergues , no luggage transfers .. less shops ... Would the Frances be as busy as it now is ?

 

[Bradypus]

True. More than once I heard oh, there is more than one? Even among pilgrims on the Francés...

'What is this Primitivo you speak of?' I wondered at the time...

Just after I reached Santiago after walking the Primitivo I met a young American man who had walked from SJPDP. When he heard that I had walked the Primitivo he asked "Do you plan to walk the real Camino anytime?"

 

[RodlaRob]

I like the VdlP so much. I walked with a friend, so even if .......

Great summary thank you.
Where can I find your blog?

 

[Bradypus]

If there were not so many albergues , no luggage transfers .. less shops ... Would the Frances be as busy as it now is ?

Probably not. I first walked the Camino Frances when in terms of infrastructure and services large parts of the Frances were little different from today's VdlP. Some 30+km stages, no luggage services, many villages without bars or shops or accommodation. Some refugios only provided floor space to sleep on so all pilgrims had to carry sleeping bags and mats unless they had their own personal support vehicle. There was very little private accommodation in the smaller places so you could not walk the whole Camino without making use of refugios unless you had vehicle support. One of the biggest spurs to growth in numbers was the decision by the Xunta to promote the 1993 Holy Year very heavily and build the first chain of dedicated pilgrim albergues to replace the small and ramshackle refugios in the Galician section of the path. As more pilgrims arrived it became financially viable to invest in more infrastructure and services all along the route. Then a vicious - or virtuous - circle happened: more people leading to more/better infrastructure leading to more people...... All of which made the Camino Frances saleable as a fairly easy, straightforward and undemanding holiday option.

 

[Flog]

Then a vicious - or virtuous - circle happened: more people leading to more/better infrastructure leading to more people...... All of which made the Camino Frances saleable as a fairly easy, straightforward and undemanding holiday option.

As has happened more recently to the latter stages of the Camino Portugues...

 

[Kathar1na]

If there were not so many albergues, no luggage transfers .. less shops ... Would the Frances be as busy as it now is ?

No, it would not be as busy or as well-known as it is now. The Camino Francés was originally just known as the Camino de Santiago when the revival or recreation started a few decades ago and it was the only pilgrimage road in Spain known under this name. It had a head start but there are numerous reasons for the singularity of the Camino Francés. It will always be in a class of its own.

 

[Bradypus]

As has happened more recently to the latter stages of the Camino Portugues...

Indeed. The early Camino Frances revival was supported almost entirely by voluntary effort and was not a moneyspinner for individuals or communities. It took quite some time to reach a critical mass of pilgrims which could make commercial albergues, hostals, bars and so on viable. But once that happened the movement had a great deal of momentum. Much the same situation was reached on the Portugues a few years ago.

 

[Flog]

But once that happened the movement had a great deal of momentum. Much the same situation was reached on the Portugues a few years ago.

Yes, and in this case, and in business terms, with the knowledge and benefit of hindsight. The flourishment of tour companies, look at how the term 'variant espiritual' is being bandied about in recent times like it's the best thing since sliced bread and how it's now a 'must do' part of the experience.

 

[Editha]

Great summary thank you.
Where can I find your blog?

You find it under www.jakobsweghintergrund.com. There I try to give more background informations about history, culture and geography. Since I prepare my caminos in this way, I discover so many things which are not mentioned in the guides but which are important for the understanding of the way. A clever person told, pilgrims often forget, that since the beginning of the caminos politic, history, culture and piety are close connected and you must look at this too when you are going on the camino.

 

[Rita Flower]

Actually, Robo, I thing #1 should be
Most people, when first learning about the camino, think that it is the Camino Fránces.

In 2007 I didn’t know much - wasn’t even sure what it all meant, this Camino thing - but really loved the idea of walking through the beautiful countryside of rural France / Spain for a month or more.
On my very first day I met someone who had walked from Le Puye!!!! And the later others who has started from Switzerland, Netherlands!!!
But it was the woman who started in Sevilla who really caught my attention - the idea of walking right up the middle of Spain - I wanted to do that. Finally walked the Via in 2022.
It does take some determination, self reliance and confidence which many Camino ‘newbies’ are in the process of developing - I certainly was.

 

[peregrina2000]

Anyone who is feeling put off by the long stages on the Vdlp should take a look at some of our “group planning during covid confinement” threads. Here is one on the Vdlp. Forum member extraordinaire @AJGuillaume took the lead, and he always walks shorter stages.

The covid virtual thread on the Sanabrés (Zamora to Santiago) was less specifically focused on shorter distances, but I think all the raw material is there for you to see that you don’t need to walk 35 km days.

The closure of the albergue in the Embalse is a real shame, but people are finding ways to work around. Groups of three or four in a taxi make for a very affordable option. I know the purists don’t like that but in my opinion the beauty and historical and architectural interest that the Vdlp offers is well worth that little sacrifice.

 

[M2ME]

Its definitely a demanding stage but doable if you start in Casar de Cáceres. The hostel in Cañavaral takes bookings which allows you to go a little more at your own pace. That being said the day I walked it many took taxis to the embalse and walked from there. By the time I got in that afternoon I didn’t feel a purist so much as envious.

​

 

[Donna Sch]

Is the fishing lodge still open?

 

[peregrina2000]

Is the fishing lodge still open?

No that has been closed to pilgrims for years now. They seem to be still operating, though.

 

[Luka]

I loved the VDLP (from Seville to Astorga) in March-April 2017 and did not find it so lonely, grueling and difficult as people suggest. It does require a comfort with self-sufficiency and coping, an ability to figure out stages, time to allow for stages of the length you like, and it helps to speak Spanish. The VDLP is an in-between choice and good training for the truly untraveled routes, where (unlike the VDLP) you might never meet another pilgrim.

I agree. I walked the VdlP in 2013/2014 and I loved it. The perfect amount of pilgrims per day (around 20-25), very international, no groups, almost everyone started walking alone, all seasoned pilgrims. And I loved how the landscape changed from the south to the north. I didn't recall it was hard. But at that time I had only walked in Belgium and Northern France, so I found it a luxury that I didn't need to carry food for 2 days in my pack...

My 2 cents: normally the growth of pilgrims and the growth of pilgrim infrastructure go hand in hand. But on the VdlP the infrastructure has always stayed behind. It must be really hard to make a living out of pilgrims, as the season is split: March - May and Sept - Oct. Other Caminos have grown also in the months around their high season, but on the VdlP this is impossible because of the heat. So you'll always have a big gap between those 2 seasons which makes it unattractive to start an albergue. I think there were even more albergues 10 years ago than there are now. Like the (very important, because nothing else there) Albergue Del Embalse de Alcántara.

No idea though why Ourense hasn't become more popular as a starting place, but I think the numbers are growing there. Especially in summer.

 

[LTfit]

I want to walk it next winter. Phil and I had our first hospitalero posting in Zamora in 2017. Loved talking to our pilgrim guests about the route. Very quiet and challenging they said. It also has a lot of preserved historical sites along the way and I am interested in that aspect. We loved Zamora, BTW, and would accept another posting there if offered.

Can't agree more! I've stayed in the muni in Zamora four times (2x ending and restarting the Plata there, 1x ending the Levante and 1x on route to Santiago during my second Plata).

When I arrived after the Levante one of the Spanish hospitaleras asked if I could stay a few days to help out. Given that I had some extra unaccounted for days but needed to get back to Madrid for my flight I jumped at the opportunity. I had already been a hospi several times but we still cleared it with Hosvol. It was great fun staying those 4 days in Zamora and checking out the tapas bars and churches.

 

[LTfit]

I loved the VDLP (from Seville to Astorga) in March-April 2017 and did not find it so lonely, grueling and difficult as people suggest. It does require a comfort with self-sufficiency and coping, an ability to figure out stages, time to allow for stages of the length you like, and it helps to speak Spanish. The VDLP is an in-between choice and good training for the truly untraveled routes, where (unlike the VDLP) you might never meet another pilgrim

Definitely agree here. The Plata was actually my second Camino although I split it in two (Sevilla-Zamora, Zamora-Muxía). Given that there were 5 starting out in Sevilla, it was much "busier" than my Levante, Lana, Mozárabe and Olvidado!

Back in 2011, with the help of statistics from the Oficina de Peregrinos, I recorded the number of pilgrims arriving in Santiago from the Plata in the years 2008-2012. Although I don't remember the exact numbers, I do recall that they were stable and about the same (+/- 8,000). Little has changed 12 years on!

It is quite hard to make a living running an albergue on the Plata given the very short season. I know, I've had this discussion with several hospitaler@s along the route. There are few pilgrims in the summer and in the winter. I've done the Plata during both these seasons and there were only a handful of us and mostly Spanish.

The Plata is definitely not for everyone but I don't agree with the opinion that it is tough, mentally maybe if you're not used to walking alone but not physically.

 

[Bradypus]

The Plata is definitely not for everyone but I don't agree with the opinion that it is tough, mentally maybe if you're not used to walking alone but not physically.

The trend in recent years on the main Caminos has been for shorter daily stages. We often see people asking for suggestions of itineraries with stages less than 15km and with luggage transport services available. Those of us who regularly walk 30+km stages while carrying a pack are becoming a fairly small minority. If someone's previous walking experience has only been on the Frances or Portugues and using luggage transport then I think that they might well find the VdlP a more serious physical challenge.

 

[C clearly]

Those of us who regularly walk 30+km stages while carrying a pack are becoming a fairly small minority.

Yes, but generally walking shorter stages does not need to be linked to pack transport. I don't "regularly" walk 30+ km stages, although I do always carry my pack. It isn't often necessary on the VDLP to do long stages, although it is occasionally so. More often, one must choose between 2 short stages and 1 long one.

 

[Bradypus]

Yes, but generally walking shorter stages does not need to be linked to pack transport.

That is true of course but there is a marked and growing tendency for people choosing the Frances as their Camino route to combine walking short stages with using pack transport to minimise the physical effort required. Not really an option on the Via de la Plata which is essentially what the Camino Frances looked like 30 years ago! If you look at the pilgrim office figures it is quite extraordinary how explosive the growth on the Frances has been in recent years - mostly in short-distance journeys. But the VdlP has been almost unique in losing numbers. A very different experience which does not fit with current tastes.

 

[Flog]

Those of us who regularly walk 30+km stages while carrying a pack are becoming a fairly small minority.

I'm happy to count myself in that minority! A day may come when I might need such help, but I'm not yet ready to look over that horizon..
Our health is our wealth!

 

[Renee Frankhuizen]

I bet the weather has a lot to do with it. I wonder if the statistics confirm that the usage trends are heavily slanted to the shoulder seasons on the VdlP and that the pilgrims during the summer slow to a trickle (unlike the more northern routes). That would make a big difference in overall numbers, in addition to the longer stages, etc. In planning our VdlP for 2023, we had to really think through what weather we might expect in southern Spain and what we'd expect in Galicia (in our case) 8-9 weeks later. We walked in the fall, but I would think Spring would be significantly better for weather planning, with the weather warming as you head northward. So numbers may even be more skewed to late winter/early Spring starts.

Interestingly, on our VdlP, we met quite a few women pilgrims, mostly walking on their own and mostly youngish (under 50) and very self-reliant. But it wasn't a scientific sampling.

When I was in a bookstore in Santiago after our camino, two young men were looking at a map of the various caminos. One pointed out the VdlP to the other and said that it is a route he would never do without explanation. I walked by and said that I just finished it and loved it - probably a snarky thing for me to do. But I do think the VdlP has a reputation for being boring, long, hot, exposed and generally unappealing. Maybe that makes it better for the rest of us!

But I'm not sure why the Camino Sanabrés isn't growing. It's mostly just a beautiful walk through Galicia.

Hi thanks for the positive vibe...for Im starting from Salamanca 21 june. Yes Summer. Is it safe for a woman by herself middle age? This is my 7th camino and I the solitude would be nice this time although would be lovely to meet other pelgrims in the albergues. Can you give some advice on that? Gtz Renee

 

[peregrina2000]

Is it safe for a woman by herself middle age

Hi, @Renee Frankhuizen, I’m a big fan of solitary caminos, and have walked many of them alone. I have been flashed on a number of occasions (never on this route), but thankfully I’ve never been physically assaulted and just need to shake the disgust off and keep walking (also making sure to report to the police). As far as physical safety goes, I would not hesitate to walk this route alone. There are a few lonely portions through uninhabited territory, but nothing I would call remote.

You don’t say whether you will continue on the Vdlp after Zamora or whether you will take the Sanabrés, but I would highly recommend the latter. The Sanabrés is one of those inexplicably under-walked caminos, imho. It doesn’t have any spectacular cities (though Ourense is nice), no mountains (though there’s always a bit of elevation), but I loved it and hope to go back for more. If you’re ready for the heat, I say Buen Camino and enjoy!

 

[Bradypus]

It doesn’t have any spectacular cities (though Ourense is nice), no mountains (though there’s always a bit of elevation), but I loved it and hope to go back for more.

Only slightly lower in elevation than the highest points of the Frances. And I would rate the sections around Padornelo and after A Gudiña up there with the Rabanal to Molinaseca section for scenic value. It is extraordinary how few people walk the Sanabres but selfishly I welcome that.

 

[Renee Frankhuizen]

Hi, @Renee Frankhuizen, I’m a big fan of solitary caminos, and have walked many of them alone. I have been flashed on a number of occasions (never on this route), but thankfully I’ve never been physically assaulted and just need to shake the disgust off and keep walking (also making sure to report to the police). As far as physical safety goes, I would not hesitate to walk this route alone. There are a few lonely portions through uninhabited territory, but nothing I would call remote.

You don’t say whether you will continue on the Vdlp after Zamora or whether you will take the Sanabrés, but I would highly recommend the latter. The Sanabrés is one of those inexplicably under-walked caminos, imho. It doesn’t have any spectacular cities (though Ourense is nice), no mountains (though there’s always a bit of elevation), but I loved it and hope to go back for more. If you’re ready for the heat, I say Buen Camino and enjoy!

Thanks! Im not scared, but on my first camino there was a girl missing around Astorgas and the police adviced not to walk alone on these stretches. 2015 unfortunately found but not alive. Now I dont want to frighten anyone because the camino has always given me a safe vibe.

Im lanning to walk the Sanabres because Galicia is a magical part and I love it. Thank you for your advice! Kind regards and I cant wait...

 

[Renee Frankhuizen]

And I love the heat. I start early just before sunrise, magical moment...enouh water and some food. I will survive and I also enjoy the camino on my own. The full attention, the contemplation, you know. Maybe I meet some pelgrims in the albergues, would be nice to have a conversation or sharing a meal together. Im not in a hurry so I can stop wherever I like it. Some etappes are long without. I prepare. Leave 21 june for madrid and train to Salamanca. Next morning im off....

 

[LTfit]

If you like the heat then you shouldn't have a problem. I've walked it in July, continuing on through Orense (the Sanabrés) and there were definitely pilgrims on the stretch from Salamanca to Santiago.

 

[Renee Frankhuizen]

If you like the heat then you shouldn't have a problem. I've walked it in July, continuing on through Orense (the Sanabrés) and there were definitely pilgrims on the stretch from Salamanca to Santiago.

Perfect! Thank you!

 

[Giorgio99]

Hi thanks for the positive vibe...for Im starting from Salamanca 21 june. Yes Summer. Is it safe for a woman by herself middle age? This is my 7th camino and I the solitude would be nice this time although would be lovely to meet other pelgrims in the albergues. Can you give some advice on that? Gtz Renee

Hi I’m currently on the via de la plata on the senabres section. Very few pilgrims. Currently in an Albergue with a very nice french woman so you’ll always meet someone. The people in the the towns and villages are lovely. Just this stage I got invited into a bodega by two lovely old blokes and it was a highlight. I’m an older guy so can’t comment on safety issues for woman but I hope your trip is amazing

 

[Bradypus]

Thanks! Im not scared, but on my first camino there was a girl missing around Astorgas and the police adviced not to walk alone on these stretches. 2015 unfortunately found but not alive. Now I dont want to frighten anyone because the camino has always given me a safe vibe.

That would have been Denise Thiem. I think we should remember her by name. A very painful event but thankfully a unique one.

 

[Renee Frankhuizen]

Hi I’m currently on the via de la plata on the senabres section. Very few pilgrims. Currently in an Albergue with a very nice french woman so you’ll always meet someone. The people in the the towns and villages are lovely. Just this stage I got invited into a bodega by two lovely old blokes and it was a highlight. I’m an older guy so can’t comment on safety issues for woman but I hope your trip is amazing

Great! Enjoy and buen camino!

 

[Renee Frankhuizen]

Great! Enjoy and buen camino!

I think summer will be more pilgrims