Camino Vasco/Frances vs. Madrid/Frances

[jpflavin1]

I am planning on walking the Camino Frances again in Spring 2012 (late March) but was considering starting in Irun on the Camino Vasco. I have not found much on this site describing this route. I would be interested in anyone who has taken this route to share their experience here.

Ulterya,
Joe

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Re: Camino Vasco/Frances

A good place to start research:

http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los ... ago/vasco/

http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiag ... terior.htm

There is a thread, and it indicates that there are few on the Forum who are even familiar with the route.

camino-vasco-del-interior/topic10990.html

PM's to the knowledgeable posters may elicit come information.

 

[jpflavin1]

Re: Camino Vasco/Frances

Thanks Falcon:

I have visited this website and it does have a detailed map and information. I am looking for a more personal review of the Camino Vasco experience.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[anniethenurse]

Re: Camino Vasco/Frances

The Confraternity of St James in London has published a guide for the Tunnel Route as it is also called from Irun to Santo Domingo. It is written by Eric Walker and it can be downloaded for donativo:
http://www.csj.org.uk/guides-online.htm
I am interested in this route, too but have not decided yet which one I will walk next April.

 

[jpflavin1]

Re: Camino Vasco/Frances

Thanks to all who have sent me information on this route. I am more interested in personal reviews but there do not seem to be any out there. I still intend to try this route or the Bazatan route from Bayonne. I like the idea of starting out in Bayonne versus SJPdP. I am leaning towards the Vasco route but believe I will start in Bayonne. Maybe I will see you Annie but I plan on starting in late March.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[madrid12]

Re: Camino Vasco/Frances

Hi Joe
We walked part of this route about 8 years ago so my info is quite out of date. I did post a bit about it under tunnel route. We only walked from Hernani to Vitoria and I love Vitoria. I like the Basque country and the people were lovely especially the old men in Tolosa going out for their evening drinks playing games on each other like hanging pegs on the back of their sweaters. Last year we walked near Brinas and Haro, Brinas was good, you never know when you are going to come across really good bars, bodegas and restaurants.
Liz

 

[jpflavin1]

This Spring I plan on walking the Camino again but was looking to change things up a little. I had been focused on the Vasco/Frances because I could start right out of Bayonne or Irun. There do not appear to be many personal reviews of this route. As I have been looking to purchase my tickets, I am now considering the Madrid/Frances as an option.

Has anyone out there walked both? Could you provide feedback as to your experience?

I was looking at the most recent Camino statistics posted by Johnny Walker. The statistics indicate that the Camino Madrid (120 ytd) is even less traveled than the Camino Vasco-tunnel route (420 ytd). Both appear lightly traveled but have enough traffic that I am hopeful to get some personal feedback.

I could also leave it up to fate, the cheaper airfare (Chicago to Madrid or Paris).

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Joe,
I walked the Madrid this past spring, and I posted on this forum about my experience. I also kept a blog, which you can see here: http://peregrina2000.blogspot.com/

I haven't walked the Vasco Interior, but I am gathering information about it because it seems like a great alternative. (I met some guys on the Camino de Madrid this year who had walked it and liked it a lot). The reason for the lower numbers reported to the pilgrims office may also have to do with the fact that when you report your point of origin, Bayonne or Irun may just put you in the Norte category, while Madrid is obvious. Maybe Johnnie Walker can tell me if I'm way off base here. But my impression from talking with the Spaniards is that the Vasco is much more heavily travelled than the Madrid (though it's all relative, I don't think there are any crowds there, but on the Madrid this spring I met two walkers and crossed paths with about 5 cyclists.) Again, based on what these two told me, you'll meet predominantly Spanish walkers on the Vasco Interior.

There's an official Basque website that provides some info on the Camino Vasco, if you click on Rutas and then Interior http://www1.euskadi.net/caminosantiago/ ... m?&lang=es

And a few more sites I've found, though they are in Spanish:

http://www.gronze.com/documents/pdf/015cas.pdf (BTW, the gronze website is pretty great for all caminos)

A blog: http://bardos1959.blogspot.com/ (but you have to find the link to Camino vasco on the right)

A you tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSzlLV2hliY

And though you didn't ask, I'll just say that I would fly into Madrid for either camino, because it's easy to get to Irun from Madrid, and Santiago-Madrid is usually easier than Santiago-Paris. Just my opinion. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[JohnnieWalker]

The reason for the lower numbers reported to the pilgrims office may also have to do with the fact that when you report your point of origin, Bayonne or Irun may just put you in the Norte category, while Madrid is obvious. Maybe Johnnie Walker can tell me if I'm way off base here.Buen camino, Laurie

You are absolutely correct on this Laurie. The Pilgrims' Office stats are not a reliable source for numbers on the lesser walked routes. The statistics are compiled from drop down lists - at the moment these only record starting points on the main routes and "others". Colleagues seeing a starting point of Bayonne or Irun would check Camino del Norte. The Primitivo is now on the list as is the route from Muxia - Finisterre - Santiago. Let's just say the database is "under development". I noticed this personally when I ran the stats until August - alas no arrivals from Valencia on the Camino Levante were recorded - I was just one of the "others"

John

 

[FatmaG]

Joe!

There are some posts on the topic "Camino Vasco del Interior" (I guess you've seen them already)...

I did it last year - but chose a VERY alternative way : over the mountains from Hernani to Zegama and not via the valley and Tolosa. And after Vitoria I chose not to continue towards Haro and Santo Domingo but to go rather via Miranda do Ebro and Briviesca directly to Burgos... (an alternative which they called the "Via de Bayonne").

I walked from 22 of June onwards. After having left Irun, my starting point, I just met 2 people on the whole way - both having chosen the "valley" road, Tolosa and Haro... and one day a huge group of Spanish one-day-walkers (just where the Miranda and the Haro alternatives split)

It was very lonely, very beautiful and at the first sight as well quite destabilising because so different of the "Frances"...
Since then I did more "lonely" ways and do appreciate these a lot!

If you would like to know more about these particular alternatives, let me know.
(always wanted to create a blog but not yet realised...)

 

[jpflavin1]

FatmaG:

Thank you for your response. I believe I have read most of the information on this route on the forum and am looking for some personal reviews on these routes. I looked at the "Via de Bayonne". The only problem with that route is it does not intersect the Frances until Burgos. There are a couple of places on the Frances (Granon and Tosantos) that I have never stayed. I plan to add them to my stops in the Spring.

I would be interested in where you stayed in Irun and if they provided a credencial.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Joe,
When I walked the Norte, I started in Irun and stayed at the municipal albergue. Here's some information on it: http://www.irun.org/cod/entidades/entid ... clave=4303

The website says what I remember to be the case -- credenciales are available, and the albergue opens only at 4 pm. When I was there in early May 2007 (?), the albergue was full by 4:30, but you can still get a credencial there, and there are plenty of private pensiones around.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[jpflavin1]

Thanks Laurie:

If I read the information correctly, with my translator, (thank you for software) it says from April 1st until September 30th. That would mean delaying my departure until April 1st. I guess I can always get a credential ahead of time in the states.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[FatmaG]

You can normally get the credential as well in the Parroquia de P.P Pasionistas (close to the albergue - calle Geltokiko) but I ignore the days and timetables...

Contact the local association per mail : irunsantiago@yahoo.es
I guess they should be able to help you!

(it seems that especially the way from Puebla de Arganzon to Haro must be very beautiful!).

As to the common parts with my route :
1st day : Irun to Hernani was very long and there were 2 kind of signalisations (yellow arrows and wooden "sticks" with a walker on it) which did not always correspond... You are leaving a city and cross countryside (views on some industrial sites), loose yourself in nature, cross small villages with nice cafés, profit of a beautiful view from the Ermitage on the top of a higher hill (or smaler mountain)... in all it was about 30 kms before arriving in Herani...
(stayed in the pension "Arrobi ostatua" in Santa Barbara arzoa 87 - uphill and a bit outside of the centre)

Then the ways part.

Later on, they come together again around Zegama - already inmidst the Basque Countryside.
Very beautiful as well the nature as the villages.

I can give you some impressions for the days to come :
In Zegama I stayed in the sports hall of a school - keys & stamp in the town hall.
And on the next day went up towards the mountains to cross the famous tunnel. A very beautiful walking day although quite steep at times (to imagine that they organise a mountain marathon each year...) and a hard part on ancient Roman pavements...
I stayed in Salvatierra (Hostal Josemari)

From Salvatierra I went to the monastery of Estibaliz
where I was warmly welcomed ---- well after an eternity that I stayed outside because no one would hear the door bell ring.... (you can go immediately to Vitoria +- 30kms)

Estibaliz to Vitorio (+-10 km) - you can see the town from very far, and their must be still enormous works going on - so finding your way is something


About the way to/through Vitoria, I wrote this last year because was asked some information :
There are arrows all over the way, in the fields and as well through Arcaya and till Vitoria - but not always easy to see.... :
In Arcaya, at the end of the village, there was kind of a 'park' and some arrows (a bit hidden) pointed to the left. You had to go under a railway track (kind of primitive under crossing ) and up again and continue leftwards.
There a is the big construction site which must still be there for some years, but they did already the foot-walks which you should find easily. (might be that you have to by-pass some works and fences, but it's not so complicated as it sounds).
NB The row of buildings to be should be on your left.
Then always straigth forward towards Vitoria (at some point you will go right, then left again - but the 'direction to follow' is always straigth forward)
You will come to an Y-junction on a bigger street. There is a petrol station, go on the left of it.
When you cross a double lane just on the next corner (you are in the outskirts of Vitoria), you should see some shells in the floor.
These lead you through the whole city - but they are quite 'unimposing' - I lost the one really close to the centre and turned around for quite a lot of time.
By the way, I slept in the youth hostel and left the town in the next morning without any problem...
SO this section : HANDLE WITH CARE - this is old information

As said, the youth hostel is on the "good" side of the city to leave on the next morning to Puebla de Aranzon. (about 19km only). And in that small village, you should meet an inhabitant who is responsible for the keys of the small albergue in town...

Here, the ways split again...

By the way :it seems that especially the way from Puebla de Arganzon to Haro must be very beautiful!

I keep this camino in very good memory - although very particular because really lonely most of the time and because of few signalisation, albergues etc

 

[FatmaG]

I just forgot something!

If you are interested in Arts and Paintings, don't miss the church of Alaiza with its famous wall paintings (Alaiza is a little bit off-camino on the part between Salvatierra and Vitoria-Gasteiz in the village next to Gaceo - this church has wall paintings as well).

I did!
And regret it a lot...

Buen camino

 

[jpflavin1]

FatmaG:

Thank you for for taking the time to provide me with some feedback on your experience. This is the kind of information I am looking for.

I did send an email using my translator app. Hopefully they will respond. I really need to work this Winter on my Spanish.

I like walking in the early Spring to avoid crowds. That does not appear to be an issue on this route.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[jpflavin1]

Re: Camino Vasco/Frances

Thanks to all who have responded to my thread. I had hoped to get a little more feedback from Pilgrims who had hiked one or both routes. That said, the feedback I received was helpful and from good sources on the forum. I am now committed to the Vasco/Frances. The tipping point was a Sojourner 47 post on her Madrid experience. I know everyone's experience is different. The kicker for me was the temperature. I do not get along well with the sun and it appears the Madrid is very sunny and hot.

Thanks again to everyone for their feedback. Maybe some day a Winter Camino Madrid?

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[alipilgrim]

Hi Joe,

Not to keep beating the bush about how wonderful I think the Madrid route is, but just because the Madrid route for Sojourner was sunny & hot in September, do you not think it was also so on other routes in Spain, ie. the Vasco/Frances? And just because it was hot in September, does not mean it will be so in late-March 2012 when you are planning your trip.

If you've other reasons for choosing the Vasco/Frances, I'm sure then that that is the route for you; however, weather is one thing that one cannot predict!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Aren´t there some serious mountains on this route? If so, think twice about going on such a lonely path so early in the year. Above 1300 meters the snow lasts well into April.

Only cause I´ve tried it...
Reb.

 

[jpflavin1]

Reb:

Thank you for your feedback. I reviewed the entire route and there is only one steep climb. Day four has an 800m climb to a peak of 1135m. This is far less steep than day one from SJPdP. Other than that there are only two other peaks that reach 700m. All well below 1300m or the 1900m of day one from SJPdP. The lack of other Pilgrims does not bother me. Most walking, in the Spring, is pretty solitary even from SJPdP. I will miss the communal atmosphere in the evenings. That said, once I get to Santo Domingo and the Frances that will return. As far as cold or any snow I might encounter, I am from Chicago. Not exactly a town foreign to that type of weather.

Ultreya,
Joe