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Favourite Accommodation Splurge along the Camino

Handsome_Canuck

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
September / October 2023
We start our Camino Sept 06 from SJPP!

I have 10 000+ Air Miles reward miles to use on our trip and am looking to hear folks favourite accommodation splurges along this route.

Sadly Parador de Leon is not an air miles but partner but we may pony up for a stay here anyway

We are planning on municipal Albergues 5 or 6 nights out of 7 and our looking to treat ourselves for a couple nights on the walk.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
We start our Camino Sept 06 from SJPP!

I have 10 000+ Air Miles reward miles to use on our trip and am looking to hear folks favourite accommodation splurges along this route.

Sadly Parador de Leon is not an air miles but partner but we may pony up for a stay here anyway

We are planning on municipal Albergues 5 or 6 nights out of 7 and our looking to treat ourselves for a couple nights on the walk.

I can recommend NH Collection Palacio de Burgos.
Stayed there on a regular holiday.
No idea if it is in your reward scheme though.

 
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Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Spa Via de la Plata in Astorga.
It's a splurge by Spanish standards, and an incredible bargain by North American ones. They have a lovely water spa, a great breakfast... Suites are roomy and airy... modern. They own and operate 1 or 2 restaurants in the main square and so if you stay at the hotel they give you a guest price for the restaurants (or used to before COV anyway).
 
Spa Via de la Plata in Astorga.
It's a splurge by Spanish standards, and an incredible bargain by North American ones. They have a lovely water spa, a great breakfast... Suites are roomy and airy... modern. They own and operate 1 or 2 restaurants in the main square and so if you stay at the hotel they give you a guest price for the restaurants (or used to before COV anyway).
Awesome, I believe this one can be booked with Air Miles and absolutely it looked amazing and at a great price by North American standards
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Awesome, I believe this one can be booked with Air Miles and absolutely it looked amazing and at a great price by North American standards
There are few places I would happily walk several hundred KM to get to, and this is one.
In Santiago, if you want really wonderful hospitality and and incredible price with very simple elegance... get a regular guest room at the Hospiderio San Martin Pinario. They are just absolutely wonderful.
I've also stayed in their pilgrim rooms but one cannot book those in advance.
 
We were unaware of this hotel when staying in León. It looks like a parador equivalent. Next to the Basilica de San Isidoro and the museum with the Royal Pantheon, the Sistine Chapel of Romanesque Art.


 
Last edited:
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
LaPerla in Pamplona. Five-star elegance and right on the square. Hemingway stayed there when he was in town, although it's unlikely he'd recognize the luxury international hotel it is today. However, they honor his memory and still have a "Hemingway suite" (complete with a copy of "The Sun Also Rises") in roughly the same area as his preferred rooms of old.

Incidentally, although we came trudging in exhausted, footsore, carrying our backpacks and wearing our grungy pilgrim clothes, we were still graciously welcomed as honored guests.
 
There are few places I would happily walk several hundred KM to get to, and this is one.
In Santiago, if you want really wonderful hospitality and and incredible price with very simple elegance... get a regular guest room at the Hospiderio San Martin Pinario. They are just absolutely wonderful.
I've also stayed in their pilgrim rooms but one cannot book those in advance.
You can book the pilgrim rooms in advance, but you must email or phone them to do so. All of their rooms book up early.
 
In Pamplona we stayed at the Cathedral Hotel this summer. They have a free happy hour wine tasting in the early evening. Very nice.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada the Cathedral Parador. We have stayed there 3 or 4 times now.

Actually the nicest place I have stayed for amenities was in Madrid at the Marriott Convention Hotel by the airport. Great pool, great amenities, free airport shuttle, free crazy big breakfast, free lounge with tapas and wine/beer. I stayed there for free on points with my Marriott account. It was very great as an end of my Camino when I was tired and ready to go home.

Also Belle Muxia in Muxia. We rented the penthouse suite. Fabulous, restful place.
 
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€149,-
Just came to give another vote for NH Palácio de burgos. It was lovely to walk the CF from there (it's close to the cathedral) after an awesome.e sleep and great breakfast!

And Parador de Leon is just too gorgeous...
 
It's a shame the Paradors are not candidates for your air miles. Either alone or with my wife, four of my pilgrimages have included a stay at a Parador somewhere. They varied a little between more modern opulence and old fashioned charm, a little expensive when one has been staying in albergues and hostels, but I always think it is worth including enough to stay a night in my budget.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
By far, my favorite was Hotel Quinta San Francisco in Castrojeriz. The room, garden, orchard, laundry room, restaurant serving breakfast and dinner (with impressive wine cellar)... Everything you could need is thoughtfully provided. I liked it so much that I changed my plan and stayed two nights!

Buen Camino!
 
It's a shame the Paradors are not candidates for your air miles. Either alone or with my wife, four of my pilgrimages have included a stay at a Parador somewhere. They varied a little between more modern opulence and old fashioned charm, a little expensive when one has been staying in albergues and hostels, but I always think it is worth including enough to stay a night in my budget.
Though not part of the air miles I suspect we will be spending the $s to splurge on the Parador in Leon as my wife and I have talked about that one every since watching The Way with Martin Sheen
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I have stayed at Hotel Norte y Londres in Burgos, and loved it. The location, very close to the cathedral, is perfect, and the hotel is very welcoming and comfortable.
Indeed. For a hotel the Norte y Londres can't be beat. Staying there is similar to a pleasant private club; all is comfy, gracious and very relaxed, ie perfect.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Thumbs up for San Zoilo in Carrion, the spa in Astorga, Norte y Londres in Burgos and San Isidoro in Leon. Make sure to take in the incredible limestone carving in the cloister at San Zoilo, it is mind boggling and only open to hotel guests.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
We were unaware of this hotel when staying in León. It looks like a parador equivalent. Next to the Basilica de San Isidoro and the museum with the Royal Pantheon, the Sistine Chapel of
Romanesque Art.


My son and I stayed at the Hotel Real Collegiata in Leon for two nights in 2015. (We were getting over jet lag, starting our walk from Leon.) It's a great place to stay, the tour was included for guests, and St. Isidoro was right next door. -- I only wish I had booked dinner there! It was a popular restaurant, and I had no idea it would book up so fast.
 
The San Zoilo in Carrion de los Condes was remarkable, being set in the old monastery (and with a good restaurant)
I second this recommendation! It’s a beautiful place with lovely cloisters as part of the hotel. When we were there there was a soft breeze blowing through the cloisters with music playing in the background and a wonderful scent in the air!
 
By far, my favorite was Hotel Quinta San Francisco in Castrojeriz. The room, garden, orchard, laundry room, restaurant serving breakfast and dinner (with impressive wine cellar)... Everything you could need is thoughtfully provided. I liked it so much that I changed my plan and stayed two nights!

Buen Camino!
I second this recommendation! One of the best overall (service, food, and ambiance) I have experienced!
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Hospendaria San Martino Pinario, just off Praza do Obradoiro in Santiago. Historic 16th C monastery, great location and wonderful breakfast and dinner.
 
Pre Covid I greatly favored the municipal and confraternity albergues because of the pilgrim camaraderie. However, so many private businesses struggled during Covid that since then I have mostly opted to stay in private albergues, pensions and small hotels to help in a small way to keep them going. Many offer wonderful communal meals reasonably priced. In hotels ask for a pilgrim rate and you may get a nice discount. My favorite albergue in Astorga is So Por Hoje. In La Portela de Valcarce, just before O Cebriero, it is hands down Vagabond Vieiras. Yum! Buen Camino
 
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Comments already made about Parador in Leon…it was the highlight of our 2014 Camino Frances. Threesome walking together…likely a week or so out of Leon one of us had the bright idea of the Parador. One of life’s mysteries how an idea such as this took hold…kept us going through a few less than great days! Worth every Euro!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I was excited to book a few Parador rest days on a recent VdlP pilgrimage (Cadiz, Zafra and Caceres - two nights in each) - but left each property feeling a bit underwhelmed. While the 'bricks and mortar' aspects were very impressive - the general 'hopsitality', and facilities (particularly reception, bar and dining), were seriously challenged by the many more very 'affordable' accommodation options we experienced. That said, we all likely need to experience the Parador at some point, but I think there are many other better options available for a 'luxury' nights rest (some listed in earlier posts here).
 
We start our Camino Sept 06 from SJPP!

I have 10 000+ Air Miles reward miles to use on our trip and am looking to hear folks favourite accommodation splurges along this route.

Sadly Parador de Leon is not an air miles but partner but we may pony up for a stay here anyway

We are planning on municipal Albergues 5 or 6 nights out of 7 and our looking to treat ourselves for a couple nights on the walk.
In my two Camino Frances adventures I stayed at this establishment. One of the best breakfasts I can remember. It was open from 6:45, as I recall. The food range covered just about anything you desired. I stayed in the rooms built in the 1970’s or ‘80’s. these were the ones removed at the end on 2017. If you really want a Camino/Paramore experience book one of the two rooms displayed in the film The Way! Buen Camino!
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Though not part of the air miles I suspect we will be spending the $s to splurge on the Parador in Leon as my wife and I have talked about that one every since watching The Way with Martin Sheen
It is very nice, and they have a great art collection. But be aware that they renovated/ modernised a few years ago so you won’t get the same type of room that they had when The Way was filmed.
Btw, on the other side of the river a few hundred yards away there is a great restaurant called Asador Salamanca that does suckling pig and lamb. And you will get a lesson from the owner on how they are made😀
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Spa Via de la Plata in Astorga.
It's a splurge by Spanish standards, and an incredible bargain by North American ones. They have a lovely water spa, a great breakfast... Suites are roomy and airy... modern. They own and operate 1 or 2 restaurants in the main square and so if you stay at the hotel they give you a guest price for the restaurants (or used to before COV anyway).
And great massages in the spa!!!
 
We start our Camino Sept 06 from SJPP!

I have 10 000+ Air Miles reward miles to use on our trip and am looking to hear folks favourite accommodation splurges along this route.

Sadly Parador de Leon is not an air miles but partner but we may pony up for a stay here anyway

We are planning on municipal Albergues 5 or 6 nights out of 7 and our looking to treat ourselves for a couple nights on the walk.
I can vouch for quite a few of those already recommended; over the years I’ve taken a similar approach to the one you’ve planned, and have a few I love:
- Hotel Monasterio San Zoilo in Carrion de Los Condes
- Hotel Spa Paris in Leon
- Hotel Spa Via de la Plata in Astorga
- La Casa de Los Somoza in O Coto
- Hostal-Restaurante el Trasgu in Foncebadón (purely for the skylights)

This year’s favourite, though, and a strong contender for my top three ever was Hotel Real Casona de las Amas in Azofra. Best room ever, great bed, lots of space, and the most amazing shower. A true hidden gem for me, and others I met who had been similarly lucky.
 
Indeed. For a hotel the Norte y Londres can't be beat. Staying there is similar to a pleasant private club; all is comfy, gracious and very relaxed, ie perfect.
Ooh, I forgot this one in my response! I’ve had several truly lovely nights here, helped along by the excellent tapas strip just around the corner.
I’d also add Hostal Siglo XIX in Cacabelos, which had the most comfortable hotel bed I’ve found in all of six caminos.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
There are plenty of great places if you want some highend quality. The AC Marriott in Burgos close to the cathedral is a gem. You feel like you have wandered into a non-pilgrim place, but they welcome pilgrims. Their breakfast is fantastic, it adds 15 euros to your bill - and it's worth it, they had 3 different brands of hot cocoa. I also had a day in Astorga where the idea of going into an albergue was thoroughly tiresome so saw a hotel and walked in - a bit steep in price but exactly what I needed that day. Sorry, can't remember the name.
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
Saw the mention of Cacabelos and remembered a special stay there and several memorable meals at the hotel Moncloa de San Lazaro.
 
You can book the pilgrim rooms in advance, but you must email or phone them to do so. All of their rooms book up early.
I tried for a year. When we arrived in the fall of 2022 and the spring of 2023 we were told on both occasions that the pilgrim rooms cannot be booked in advance. We were very lucky on both occasions that a room had come available for us because someone else had canceled.
 
get a regular guest room at the Hospiderio San Martin Pinario. They are just absolutely wonderful.
On one occasion, I arrived early in Santiago and booked a couple of days in the Hospederia at San Martin Pinario, until my room in the pilgrim area was ready. The room was about the same size as a room on the pilgrim floor, but contained two single beds, instead of the usual one bed in pilgrim rooms, so was crowded. It did not have the spacious private shower area available to pilgrims. Instead, a small circular shower had been installed. It was so small that I found it impossible to move in it. I burnt my back by touching the hot water tap, wriggled away and eventually managed to turn around and turn the tap off. There may be more spacious rooms available off the pilgrim floor, but I would not want to risk booking one.
 
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On one occasion, I arrived early in Santiago and booked a couple of days in the Hospederia at San Martin Pinario, until my room in the pilgrim area was ready. The room was about the same size as a room on the pilgrim floor, but contained two single beds, instead of the usual one bed in pilgrim rooms, so was crowded. It did not have the spacious private shower area available to pilgrims. Instead, a small circular shower had been installed. It was so small that I found it impossible to move in it. I burnt my back by touching the hot water tap, wriggled away and eventually managed to turn around and turn the tap off. There may be more spacious rooms available off the pilgrim floor, but I would not want to risk booking one.
So like tiny showers are dangerous. I've backed into the controls. You'd think I'd learn not to turn around. Still better than a shared shower tho.
 
How about an apartment with cathedral view in Burgos? There are several on a 'major booking site' that have review ratings over 9.5. Not cheap though.

Wherever you plan your splurge day(s), I'd recommend aiming to get checked in as soon as allowed and then stretch out your stay by planning a shorter stage for the following day.
 
On one occasion, I arrived early in Santiago and booked a couple of days in the Hospederia at San Martin Pinario, until my room in the pilgrim area was ready. The room was about the same size as a room on the pilgrim floor, but contained two single beds, instead of the usual one bed in pilgrim rooms, so was crowded. It did not have the spacious private shower area available to pilgrims. Instead, a small circular shower had been installed. It was so small that I found it impossible to move in it. I burnt my back by touching the hot water tap, wriggled away and eventually managed to turn around and turn the tap off. There may be more spacious rooms available off the pilgrim floor, but I would not want to risk booking one.
Hmmm. When was this?
My Pilgrim "cell" on the top floor has always had a tiny shower. Shared bathrooms at the Seminario manor, though (although even those have privacy etc).
And my regular hotel room at the Pinario has always had a full ensuite bathroom and either a double bed or two twins.
My timeline goes back to 2019 and 3 separate visits to SdC in that timeframe.
 
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My timeline goes back to 2015, and seven compostellas from Santiago (plus one from Oviedo) are lined up on my desk in front of me. I always complete my pilgrimage with a private room on the pilgrim floor in San Martin Pinario: private bathroom: sink, toilet, and a square shower area. I have made a booking to do so again this year. On the one occasion when I stayed a couple of nights in the Hospederia, my shower, as described above, was a tiny circular shower (glass walls) in the middle of the room. There was also a sink and a toilet. I am not sure why you are introducing the Seminario Menor. I stayed there once, again because I was ahead of my booking at San Martin Pinario, and would not do so again. There were no bathroom facilities in the dormitory which I shared, but I am not familiar enough with the facility to say what is available elsewhere there. As for my choice to avoid the Hospederia at San Martin Pinario in the future, to revise a traditional saying slightly: "once burned, twice shy."
 
My timeline goes back to 2015, and seven compostellas from Santiago (plus one from Oviedo) are lined up on my desk in front of me. I always complete my pilgrimage with a private room on the pilgrim floor in San Martin Pinario: private bathroom: sink, toilet, and a square shower area. I have made a booking to do so again this year. On the one occasion when I stayed a couple of nights in the Hospederia, my shower, as described above, was a tiny circular shower (glass walls) in the middle of the room. There was also a sink and a toilet. I am not sure why you are introducing the Seminario Menor. I stayed there once, again because I was ahead of my booking at San Martin Pinario, and would not do so again. There were no bathroom facilities in the dormitory which I shared, but I am not familiar enough with the facility to say what is available elsewhere there. As for my choice to avoid the Hospederia at San Martin Pinario in the future, to revise a traditional saying slightly: "once burned, twice shy."
I was not questioning your credentials. I was curious about the timeline because ti does not match my recent Hospideria at the San Martin Pinario, nor with their pilgrim rooms. And the closest experience *I* have had recently in a monastery in Santiago with shared showers was at the Seminario Menor, where, even there, the showers were private cubicles in a a very modern renovation, and my cell had its own sink.
My experience is that the San Martin Pinario is impossible to book for a hotel room even with several months of advance effort, and that the pilgrim rooms have been "walk-in" only. For my most recent two visits (Oct 2022 and May 2023 for timeframe reference), I had to have accommodations elsewhere for my first night or two in SdC and then moved to the San Martin Pinario on accommodations that had been cancelled by someone else who had not arrived as planned.
 
Our experiences obviously differ. Having booked San Martin Pinario by email seven times and had a room available for me every time, unless I arrived before my booking, I continue to book in advance. There is a booking for three nights there waiting for me when I arrive there on Nov. 10. I made my booking on July 7, sent by email to Reservas Hospederia San Martin Pinario <reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu> . I told them that I wanted a single room on the pilgrim floor for three nights with breakfast and I sent them, on their request, my credit card number to hold the booking for me. I plan on paying cash when I arrive there. I booked five months in advance, and knew that I could cancel if I could not get there. They requested my telephone number, but seemed content with my explanation that I could not get a Spanish telephone number until my arrival in Spain, but would continue to be available through my email. I wrote them in English, as my Spanish is weak and I know that the staff on their front desk understand English. This is what works for me. If you are a pilgrim and want to stay there after your arrival in Santiago, you could try making an advance booking. If they do not have a room for you, there is nothing lost but a few minutes writing an email. They are very prompt to reply to booking requests.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
I tried for a year. When we arrived in the fall of 2022 and the spring of 2023 we were told on both occasions that the pilgrim rooms cannot be booked in advance. We were very lucky on both occasions that a room had come available for us because someone else had canceled.
Yesterday (29 Aug 2023) I advance booked a pilgrim room for two nights, 25,26 October 2023. Rather than trying to book on their or another travel website, I sent a direct email with my request for a reservation and received a prompt positive response booking both nights. The rate - 27 euro/night.
 
Yesterday (29 Aug 2023) I advance booked a pilgrim room for two nights, 25,26 October 2023. Rather than trying to book on their or another travel website, I sent a direct email with my request for a reservation and received a prompt positive response booking both nights. The rate - 27 euro/night.
I think that I was a little bit unlucky with my efforts to advance book *directly through them via email* because I happened to be landing in SdC on both occasions when there were large conferences being hosted. Last fall it was the Vatican conference on hospitality and care to the stranger/tourist. I forget what was happening in May.
 
I used to 'splurge' a bit.
A parador here and there.
A fancy Hotel now and again.

And even on my last Camino I splurged a bit.
I could not resist the Parador in Zafra and Merida.
Both old historic buildings.
I even planned to stay in a couple more, but changed my mind.

Why?

I just felt really uncomfortable. Like really......
It felt so at 'odds' with walking a Camino.
And staying amongst a bunch of tourists. (there were no Pilgrims in either)
So as before, I just end up going in search of my Pilgrim buddies.

At the end of the day, it was just a bed, in a nice old building.
In fact in one, I hardly slept all night with the noise outside.
Though the lunch in Zafra was good........

So I decided my Parador days were over, and moved toward the other end of the accommodation spectrum. Lots of Albergues and cheap private rooms.

And the best bed/room/host in 60 days, without a doubt, was a room in a Casa Rural for 30 Euros.

But I will make one Exception. OK two :rolleyes:

1. Hotel Monasterio San Zoilo in Carrion de Los Condes! An old monastery, complete with private church and cloisters. We stayed 2 nights so Pat could recover from injury and it was a wonderful place. Just to lay on the grass in the closiers and listen to the Gregorian chants! And really good food too. It just felt 'right'.......

2. The Parador in Santiago.
Not to stay there. To eat there! The degustation lunch is really good. :)
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
The Royal Suite at the Parador in Santiago is the only hotel room in town that overlooks the square in front of the Cathedral. I know that sounds strange but none of the other rooms at the Parador have windows facing the square. And it comes with a balcony so you can spend your time watching other pilgrims arrive.
 
In Arzua , there's a new luxury hotel called "Hotel 1930". The owner is the same of "Casa Nene". It's an excellent luxury option in an ancient, but completely renovated building with a great garden, pool and a superb breakfast, not to mention the decoration of the rooms. Great place.
 
We were unaware of this hotel when staying in León. It looks like a parador equivalent. Next to the Basilica de San Isidoro and the museum with the Royal Pantheon, the Sistine Chapel of Romanesque Art.


I stayed here in 2015, it was quite lovely. It was a bit off of the Camino itself and I was separated from my group of walkers, but it was a nice stay.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I stayed here in 2015, it was quite lovely. It was a bit off of the Camino itself and I was separated from my group of walkers, but it was a nice stay.
What!? In 2015 I remember the camino passing just south of the Museo de San Isidoro. That was just around the block from the hotel. OpenStreetMap shows the camino going in front of the hotel now.
Screenshot_20230911-180154.png
 
The Royal Suite at the Parador in Santiago is the only hotel room in town that overlooks the square in front of the Cathedral. I know that sounds strange but none of the other rooms at the Parador have windows facing the square. And it comes with a balcony so you can spend your time watching other pilgrims arrive.
And if you are really feeling it, you can do the "Royal wave" to the pilgrims below.
 
We (husband, son (then 16) arrived in Santiago after an unusually wet camino from Porto, Easter 2013. We had FOUR hours without rain. On the last day, we met a North-American couple and walked with them, the rest of the time we saw very few pilgrims.

Arriving in Santiago, I led the wet, bedraggled group straight to the Parador and asked very nicely if they happened to have pilgrim prices. The receptionist took pity on us - perhaps they'd had cancellations because of the weather? The three of us paid €100 for a suite with two bedrooms, the other couple paid around €80, I think.

We were very, very grateful, and gladly paid around €20 per person for breakfast there the next morning - which was worth it. I don't know what the others did, because we never saw them again.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

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