Start in Gibraltar or Almeria?

[Robo]

I'm contemplating starting the VdlP before Sevilla.
I just like the idea of starting at the Coast.

Which would you pick and why?
Via Serrana or Mozarabe?

If I walk the Mozarabe I miss Sevilla.

 

[C clearly]

I found the first few days from Almeria to be tough. I would look into the alternatives before repeating the Mozarabe from Almeria.

 

[Robo]

I found the first few days from Almeria to be tough. I would look into the alternatives before repeating the Mozarabe from Almeria.

Length of stages, mountains, or remoteness?

 

[C clearly]

First day out of Almeria was a river variation of an urban exit, subsequent days were longish, several had extensive periods on rocky dry riverbeds that were hard on my feet, a very steep but scenic descent that I took very slowly making full use of my poles. I actually enjoyed it but I thought it was a bit treacherous on my own.

I realize my opinion is slightly contrary to the joy-on-all-caminos ideal. Of course I enjoyed it, but not as much as other routes!

The biggest plus of this route was the enthusiasm of the association people, who were ready to assist at any time or location up to Granada.

 

[natefaith]

If you don't start in Gibraltar, at least DO visit it. I always say this, but it is a hoot: the mix of cultures (Arab, Spanish, English), the scenery, and the tiny-ness all combine to make an eccentric and fun place to see.

 

[george.g]

Hi Robo, perhaps you should look at Alan’s account of the Via Serrana and Maggie’s blog of the Mozarabe and decide which is best suited to your requirements and experience, the Serrana looks to be strenuous , scenic but with little support, while the route from Almeria is the same but with lots of support and as a bonus is well signed.
As to not seeing Seville you do get to visit Granada, Córdoba and Merida.
Another option would be to start in Cadiz, I found the route to be a little tedious, too much of the route paralleled railways or motorways but on the plus side it’s only 5 days from Seville and you do get to visit Cadiz, Jerez and Seville.
Regards
George
PS, I have walked from Almeria and Cadiz, but not Gibraltar.

 

[Robo]

If you don't start in Gibraltar, at least DO visit it. I always say this, but it is a hoot: the mix of cultures (Arab, Spanish, English), the scenery, and the tiny-ness all combine to make an eccentric and fun place to see.

Yes, I spent a week there many years ago..

 

[peregrina2000]

The route from Almería has a lot of physical challenges, which is a big plus for me. I basically agree with @C Clearly´s assessment of the challenging parts. The rocky river beds were the most negative feature for me. But there were also lots of hours spent walking on beautiful flower filled paths (the days around Campanario had by far the most spectacular wild flower displays I’ve ever seen), through olive and almond groves just starting to bloom or blooming, Lots of castles to explore in the afternoons, some of them are amazing, like Moclín and Alcalá la Real. The three days from Guadix to Granada were just gorgeous, lots of walking on ridges with views of the snow-covered Sierra Nevada. Guadix, Granada, and Córdoba are well worth many hours.

Assessing difficulty is oh so idiosyncratic, but I do think this is one of the more challenging caminos. And we had perfect weather, just one short hail storm, no big heat waves. Even straightforward easy stages become challenging in extreme heat, pounding rain, etc. The best way for you to get an idea of whether it would fit within your comfort range would be to compare elevation profiles from the Mozárabe with elevation profiles from days you have walked on the Francés (The Mozárabe guide has profiles for each stage, and gronze has profiles for the Francés and many others). https://drive.google.com/file/d/117YJXBsekDSnhYwWKNR3MzQFhORECRSe/view

For me, getting up and going on the road early is a huge part of the enjoyment., and also makes the stages much more do-able. I love early morning walking and was usually on the way by 6:30, having had a coffee in my room with my coil. Those who like café breakfasts can’t do that of course. It meant that most days I was at my destination in plenty of time for a shower and then menú del día lunch, and hours in the afternoon to explore the towns.

This camino is the polar opposite of the Francés in many ways and may be a shock to your system. The Vdlp from Sevilla would be a more gentle transition. Another option would be the shorter route from Málaga, which Maggie’s blog also covers during an earlier year.

If you are set on starting in the ocean, there are a couple of other options. One, which I haven’t yet walked but hope to soon, would be the Lana from Alicante. It does not have all the ups and downs of the Mozárabe, and may be even less traveled, though. But the blogs are positive and pictures are very beautiful. Another would be starting in Llanca, on the coast north of Barcelona on the Cami St. Jaume to Montserrat, then on the Catalán to the Aragonés. That is a gorgeous camino, but it would be very long to go all the way to Santiago and puts you back on the Camino Francés at Puente la Reina. What we did then was hop a train to Ponferrada and finish up on the Invierno to avoid the Francés, but transport to break things up may be a dealbreaker for you. And finally you could start at the mouth of the Ebro, up through Zaragoza, then onto the Castellano Aragonés at Gallur, and into Burgos. But again that would put you back on the Francés, and avoiding the Francés seems to be high on your wish list. Oh, and I didn’t mention the Levante. Now that is a wonderful camino, probably about 42 days or so. Starts in Valencia.

I don’t mean to complicate your life, but if you are going to take this big plunge, you probably want to explore all the options, and there are lots of other ocean starting points!

 

[JabbaPapa]

I'd say Gibraltar -- there's something special about micro-states and similar micro-territories.

 

[Deleted member 43780]

Just a tip...

When showing a Spanish bus, train, agent a destination written down on piece of paper make sure the spelling is correct. Or, some of them will tell you "no such place."

I don't know if this is done to be mean to outsiders or to be a jerk...but does happen often.

I have helped tourists many times. I had to tell the agent where they wanted to go. Telling him/her "come on...you know what those people were trying to say. Be nice."

Gibraltar is not spelled with a "e"

Yes, Gibraltar is nice to see. Best to spend the night in La Línea de la Concepción.
Easy short walk from La Línea de la Concepción to Gibraltar. Catch double decker bus once on the UK side.

 

[jsalt]

Hi Robo, Gibraltar to Santiago is on my bucket list, so will be following you closely if you choose Gibraltar. Those rocky river beds are putting me off starting in Almeria. Have had enough of those in this part of the world to last me a lifetime.
Jill

 

[walkingstu]

I'm contemplating starting the VdlP before Sevilla.
I just like the idea of starting at the Coast.

Which would you pick and why?
Via Serrana or Mozarabe?

If I walk the Mozarabe I miss Sevilla.

I have met a few pilgrims that have started their Camino VDLP from Cadiz. Both parties would recommend the hike, and also the city. About 120 km. south of Seville. Lots of history.

 

[Robo]

The route from Almería has a lot of physical challenges, which is a big plus for me. ........ but I do think this is one of the more challenging caminos. ........
This camino is the polar opposite of the Francés in many ways and may be a shock to your system. ..........

Many thanks for the advice. It's given me a lot of food for thought. If 'you' think it's a challenging Camino, that means it might well be beyond me!

I would actually look forward to something that is very unlike the Frances. Whilst the Frances has all the facilities, and relatively easy walking, our walk this year made me want something much more remote away from the crowds.

I actually enjoy walking on my own, lost in my own thoughts. On my first CF I actually had lots of days like that.

As for the physical challenge, well I just need to 'lift my game' a bit. Losing body weight will make that much easier! If I'm to walk longer stages, losing 10 kg + will reduce the impact on feet and legs, and so hopefully reduce the risk of injury.

The loneliness of a remote Camino has +ve and -ve elements for me. Whilst I enjoy walking alone, night after night of dining alone can get lonely. A good incentive to improve my Spanish

 

[C clearly]

Those rocky river beds are putting me off starting in Almeria.

Wow - Those look almost impossible to walk. The river beds on the Mozarabe are not that bad - here is a sampling.
.

a very steep but scenic descent that I took very slowly making full use of my poles. I actually enjoyed it but I thought it was a bit treacherous on my own.

Look at the photo below. See the path in the foreground at the bottom of the photo? See how it curves a tiny bit to the right and disappears? (If you were skiing, you would have to do jump turns all the way down.) I was not able to take any more photos because I couldn't take my hands off my walking sticks or divert my attention from placing each foot on the way down! The wide path coming in on the lower right side is the continuation, a long way down.

 

[Kanga]

@Robo Seville, Merida and Caceres are so worth visiting I would not want to miss them. I walked alone on most days, but always had companionship at night. The VdlP combined with the Sanabres is over 1000 km. A pretty big challenge without making it any longer!

 

[Robo]

@Robo Seville, Merida and Caceres are so worth visiting I would not want to miss them. I walked alone on most days, but always had companionship at night. The VdlP combined with the Sanabres is over 1000 km. A pretty big challenge without making it any longer!

@Kanga. Are you suggesting I be sensible for once in my life ?
But of course you are probably right

 

[Robo]

Just a thought for all you 'Adventurous Types' who have walked these longer, more remote routes.
Does anyone carry a PLB? (Personal Location Beacon) Land equivalent of an EPIRB.

Kind of makes sense to me.

I'd feel really stupid lying in a gulley with a broken leg and no cell signal......
Knowing no one will come past for a week!

 

[Kanga]

@Robo, I just changed my avatar to that of a donkey - as I am definitely not in the sensible category.

When I was on the VdlP it did chew up a lot of experienced camino walkers and spit them out. It was not easy.

 

[Canuck]

As Kanga suggested, you can't miss Sevilla, Merida, Caceres and other interesting sites awaiting you if starting from or going through Sevilla.
In order to do that and achieve your aim of starting at the coast, you have the option of Cadiz or Gibraltar.

My wife and I have done both and strongly recommend the one from the Strait.
The Via Augusta from Cadiz quickly becomes boring after Jerez de la Frontera.
On the other hand, the Via Serrana, aside from its interesting starting point, leads you through a natural park, solitary but never boring. The marking is very good, accommodation is available (hostales in small villages. No large cities on the way) at reasonable distances, not too physically challenging although not easy. As a bonus, you get to visit Ronda, which is considered one of the prettiest and most interesting towns of Spain.

If you are interested in both Cadiz and the Strait, you could start from Algeciras on the Camino Del Estrecho, which links with the Via Augusta a litlle past Cadiz (small detour).

Buen camino!

 

[alexwalker]

Just a thought for all you 'Adventurous Types' who have walked these longer, more remote routes.
Does anyone carry a PLB? (Personal Location Beacon) Land equivalent of an EPIRB.

Kind of makes sense to me.

I'd feel really stupid lying in a gulley with a broken leg and no cell signal......
Knowing no one will come past for a week!

It is a good idea.

The Mozarabe is tiresome riverbeds for a couple of days. Also, from Ablodoloy (2nd day if i remember correct) it is a dangerous (very) narrow trail in a clifflike mountainside. I felt uncomfortble there: A wrong step, and i could fall hundreds of meters... Take the road instead that day. Other than that, the Mozarabe is a nice camino. You will end up in Merida. Take extra time there to see the Roman remains:

https://www.google.no/search?q=Merida+roma+theatre&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=gR3xDhl1QvEqlM%3A%2CvrY7EwpcFkSYvM%2C_&usg=__YltKdlWVw25MxcyaqlGnU68mITc=&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwikqPSL1o_cAhVBniwKHYkwAokQ9QEIQzAC#imgrc=gR3xDhl1QvEqlM:

 

[C clearly]

it is a dangerous (very) narrow trail in a clifflike mountainside. I felt uncomfortble there: A wrong step, and i could fall hundreds of meters..

This was the worst place I remember (the photo was taken, looking back). The path was probably 4 feet wide - I didn't find it too scary at the time but was aware that it was not a good place to have a dizzy spell, sudden leg cramp, or knee collapse! It was not a sheer cliff, but it was a long steep slope of loose materials that would have been a nasty place to fall into.

 

[alexwalker]

That was one of the better parts of that path... There was a particular stretch where I was very uncomfortable.

 

[alansykes]

I liked both ways very much indeed, and there is something I enjoy about starting my camino by swimming out of the sea.

The river bed from Almería is a bit of a downer, but the scenery is spectacular. Part of the way from Gibraltar is also gruelling - in particular the cañon de las Buitreras (vulture gulch), 220m of ascent in 1km, and much the same down again (see pic).

The little towns on the way to Granada are mostly very friendly and quite well spaced. The excellent pilgrim infrastructure is very well supported by the outstandingly helpful amigos. The latter is the main difference between the Mozárabe and the Serrana. Effectively, the Serrana is "just" a long distance trail which happens to be marked with yellow arrows - no albergues, no amigos, certainly no other pilgrims (although I was alone between Almería and Córdoba as well, but that was unusual). Ronda (and Seville, of course) on the Serrana were great, but then the Mozárabe has Granada and Córdoba, and the snow capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada for company.

I think on balance I'll probably chose to walk from Almería again, if I ever repeat one of the routes, but arriving on foot to Figaro's wonderful city was very special as well.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I have the same debate with my self. I want to visit Gibraltar and I like to walk a "whole camino". But if I leave out Seville to Merida I might come back and walk that stretch from Gibraltar another time and then take the train somewhere else and do another loose hanging end of the roads with yellow arrows. I'll have another look at Mozárabe again and calculate distances and try to find where to stay.

I read that some of you think the Serrana is gruelling have anyone walked that one and San Salvador that other people finds hard with all ups and downs. How do they compare? I need some sort of reference