Camino Congestion - Change routes?

[sonhador]

Greetings!

My father and I are planning on walking the Camino Frances, departing SJPDP on May 30. I've booked Orrison and Roncessvalles, and then planned to take things as they come - much as I did when I did my first camino in 2017. Dad has dived head first and the latest wave of camino congestion has him panicking. He's discussing if it would make sense to change routes. This will be his first camino. The FB post by the Albergue in Roncessvalles has him doubly concerned.

I seem to recall that late April/early May is traditionally a very busy time on the Camino and then things taper off as we move into summer. Is that memory correct? He's looking to me for advice, and we've discussed the possiblity of hopping over to the Invernio if time allows. His mom has recently passed and he wants to visit all the "traditional" sites, leaving a stone along the way. (I've explained that there isn't one Camino...but...dad's hear what they want to! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ) I think as much as he would like the Frances, he most importantly doesn't want to be in a bed race every night, or making reservations the whole way. Thoughts?

 

[AZtor]

There's the alternate opening to the Frances: the Aragones via the Somport pass. That's what I'm doing to avoid the early stages where it's busiest.

El Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

Bienvenido a Gronze, tu Guía del Camino de Santiago: Información práctica, actualizada y participativa de los principales Caminos de Santiago.

www.gronze.com

I'm starting at Sarrance, France (on the Chemin d'Arles)

 

[J Willhaus]

Greetings!

My father and I are planning on walking the Camino Frances, departing SJPDP on May 30. I've booked Orrison and Roncessvalles, and then planned to take things as they come - much as I did when I did my first camino in 2017. Dad has dived head first and the latest wave of camino congestion has him panicking. He's discussing if it would make sense to change routes. This will be his first camino. The FB post by the Albergue in Roncessvalles has him doubly concerned.

I seem to recall that late April/early May is traditionally a very busy time on the Camino and then things taper off as we move into summer. Is that memory correct? He's looking to me for advice, and we've discussed the possiblity of hopping over to the Invernio if time allows. His mom has recently passed and he wants to visit all the "traditional" sites, leaving a stone along the way. (I've explained that there isn't one Camino...but...dad's hear what they want to! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ) I think as much as he would like the Frances, he most importantly doesn't want to be in a bed race every night, or making reservations the whole way. Thoughts?

@sonhador,
I second a vote for The French Way through Aragon. Arrive in Madrid. Take the train first to Zaragoza and then switch to a train to Canfranc Estacion. Lovely and less traveled. Plenty of places to leave a stone. Lots of history. In a few days you'll join the busy Camino Frances at Puenta la Reina. Good pilgrim accommodations if you are planning to stay in traditional albergues, but also some opportunities for private rooms.

 

[trecile]

I seem to recall that late April/early May is traditionally a very busy time on the Camino and then things taper off as we move into summer. Is that memory correct?

Yes, historically that's correct. I wouldn't panic or change plans at this point. I would probably also book Zubiri or Larrasoaña, as that area can be a choke point.

 

[irishrock]

I think you'll be okay...especially after you pass Pamplona. People will stop at many different points after Pamplona.

Buen Camino...it'll be a great one.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I did the last half of the Aragonese during early November and enjoyed it. However it will be more crowded than 3 per albergue per night when you walk.

Possibly walk the Baztan from Bayonne to Pamplona? I haven't walked it so I'm not really too helpful talking about it. But heres a link to Gronze.

Camino de Baztan | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino de Baztan o Camino de Urdax-Baztan enlaza la ciudad francesa de Bayonne con Pamplona, en el Camino Francés. Fue un ruta medieval de peregrinación alternativa: cruza el Pirineo por el Puerto de Otsondo, de menor altitud que el Puerto de Ibañeta. Aún minoritario, el camino cuenta con...

www.gronze.com

 

[timr]

Possibly walk the Baztan from Bayonne to Pamplona? I haven't walked it so I'm not really too helpful talking about it. But heres a link to Gronze.

A vote here for the Baztan, a fairly gentle and, when I walked a few years ago, almost solitary walk from Bayonne to Pamplona. BUT probably NOT ideal for someone who is walking for the very first time. A little bit of navigation skill is useful, but you will get GPX and be able to use your phone when necessary. But it is quite isolated and if anyting were to go wrong you certainly won't have people coming along every few minutes like the CF. But for an experienced Camino walker who wanted the road less travelled it would be very fine. Particularly interesting culturally I think. You are deep in Basque country.

The @geraldkelly guide is perfect in English - although it appears it dates from 2018. Supplement from Gronze as @Rick of Rick and Peg says above.

 

[lt56ny]

There's the alternate opening to the Frances: the Aragones via the Somport pass. That's what I'm doing to avoid the early stages where it's busiest.

El Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

Bienvenido a Gronze, tu Guía del Camino de Santiago: Información práctica, actualizada y participativa de los principales Caminos de Santiago.

www.gronze.com

I'm starting at Sarrance, France (on the Chemin d'Arles)

It is a really wonderful camino. I walked in late October and it was super quiet. Just met two other pilgrims the whole way to Puente la Reina. I have heard it gets busy (of course it is all relative) earlier in the year. When I walked it was a local festival day in Jaca and there were no buses running up to the San Juan de la Pena. I went to the Tourist Office and they told me it would be between 50-60 Euros (maybe because it was festival) to get there. They suggested I find a few other pilgrims. They also said they would text me if others came in. They never texted and I was alone that night in the municipal albergue. So I missed it. I will walk again and make sure I get up there.

 

[Fisch]

Greetings!

My father and I are planning on walking the Camino Frances, departing SJPDP on May 30. I've booked Orrison and Roncessvalles, and then planned to take things as they come - much as I did when I did my first camino in 2017. Dad has dived head first and the latest wave of camino congestion has him panicking. He's discussing if it would make sense to change routes. This will be his first camino. The FB post by the Albergue in Roncessvalles has him doubly concerned.

I seem to recall that late April/early May is traditionally a very busy time on the Camino and then things taper off as we move into summer. Is that memory correct? He's looking to me for advice, and we've discussed the possiblity of hopping over to the Invernio if time allows. His mom has recently passed and he wants to visit all the "traditional" sites, leaving a stone along the way. (I've explained that there isn't one Camino...but...dad's hear what they want to! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ) I think as much as he would like the Frances, he most importantly doesn't want to be in a bed race every night, or making reservations the whole way. Thoughts?

We are starting on the 30th as well. Booked at Borda for the first night as well as Roncesvalles and Zubiri

 

[winemakerfw51]

I'm on the Camino Aragones right now. It's beautiful, and for the most part not difficult. There are not a lot of people walking right now. I've walked several days without seeing another pilgrim. Actually, without seeing anyone. I've seen several people walking in reverse. I'm afraid when I get to Puente La Reina it's going to be culture shock!

 

[AZtor]

I'm on the Camino Aragones right now. It's beautiful, and for the most part not difficult. There are not a lot of people walking right now. I've walked several days without seeing another pilgrim. Actually, without seeing anyone. I've seen several people walking in reverse. I'm afraid when I get to Puente La Reina it's going to be culture shock!

Great to hear! How far along are you?
I too am a bit worried about the rumblings coming from the Frances about a possible accommodations crunch. Can you let us know if this is still the case once you get up there? I'd appreciate it

 

[MackenzieWalks]

I'm on the Camino Aragones right now. It's beautiful, and for the most part not difficult. There are not a lot of people walking right now. I've walked several days without seeing another pilgrim. Actually, without seeing anyone. I've seen several people walking in reverse. I'm afraid when I get to Puente La Reina it's going to be culture shock!

I would like to do this part of the Camino. Would you recommend for a first time Camino?

 

[AZtor]

I would like to do this part of the Camino. Would you recommend for a first time Camino?

No one can answer this without knowing you. If you are an experienced traveller and can troubleshoot independently and are ok with maybe being alone, then you should consider it.

Most people say do the Frances first. I didn't and was ok, but it depends on you.

 

[roving_rufus]

Another option from Bayonne is the Tunnel Route/Vasco Interior/ Via Bayonne. It is well marked from Irun, and the section from Bayonne (or even Biarritz train station) to Irun is fairly well marked - the Voie Littoral after Biarritz station is definitely recommended.
The Vasco Interior goes to Santo Domingo, while the Via Bayona joins the CF at Burgos

https://www.gronze.com/camino-vasco

 

[MackenzieWalks]

No one can answer this without knowing you. If you are an experienced traveller and can troubleshoot independently and are ok with maybe being alone, then you should consider it.

Most people say do the Frances first. I didn't and was ok, but it depends on you.

Fair enough statement. Being alone isn’t the problem, I just cannot find enough information about this route & how easy it may be to follow.

 

[trecile]

Fair enough statement. Being alone isn’t the problem, I just cannot find enough information about this route & how easy it may be to follow.

There's a sub forum here for the Camino Aragonés:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/forums/camino-aragones-somport-pte-la-reina.33/

And information on Gronze

Camino Aragonés | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino Francés por Aragón o Camino Aragonés enlaza el puerto de Somport en la frontera hispano-francesa con la localidad navarra de Puente la Reina, donde se une al Camino Francés procedente de Roncesvalles. El Camino Francés por Aragón debe su origen al Camino de Arles (Vía Tolosana), una de...

www.gronze.com

 

[winemakerfw51]

No one can answer this without knowing you. If you are an experienced traveller and can troubleshoot independently and are ok with maybe being alone, then you should consider it.

Most people say do the Frances first. I didn't and was ok, but it depends on you.

I'd agree. I never saw a tienda/grocery store between Jaca and Sanguesa. A bar in some towns, but if you're passing through between 3 and 6, it won't be open. Gronze tells you which towns have services. There are some good albergues. Best of luck on whichever WAY you choose

 

[Pepper_E]

You can start as planned on the Francés and if you want to avoid the masses coming out of Sarria, simply hang a left in Ponferrada and take the Camino Invierno into Santiago. Very well marked, very few Pilgrims and a beautiful route.

 

[Former member 92300]

Personally - for a first Camino - I recommend starting in SJPDP and just reserving SJPDP through Zubiri. Once you reach Pamplona - it is usually better for finding beds last minute. If worried, you could always book the night before or in the morning before you start walking. But - many places don't accept reservations. I did the Frances in 2021 and Norte/Primitivo in 2022. The Norte was gorgeous - but I felt very isolated from other Pilgrims quite often - especially when I stayed in private rooms. I felt that the Frances and Primitivo gave me more of a feeling of being a pilgrim, whereas on the Norte - I just felt like I was hiking through normal towns/cities without feeling like a pilgrim. Hard to explain...

 

[Galuh]

Buen Camino

 

[Richard Smith]

May is busy, June less so. May 30 looks good.

 

[Richard Smith]

>> ...but...dad's hear what they want to! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ )

Hah!

We do eventually realise when our daughter is right a few times in a row.

 

[Rafael1214]

May is busy, June less so. May 30 looks good.

View attachment 146040

Thanks for the info about how busy May can be. I’m planning on doing my 1st Camino Frances in mid-April 2024. Do you think I’ll be skipping some of May busyness on the way to Santiago? Thanks in advance for your reply.

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

I’m on the CF right now - reaching Carrion today. It is VERY busy. Accommodation really has to be booked wherever possible. Long queues at bars for service…. It’s also hot as Spain is experiencing a heatwave. But it is what it is - and this is where I’d rather be!

 

[Richard Smith]

Thanks for the info about how busy May can be. I’m planning on doing my 1st Camino Frances in mid-April 2024. Do you think I’ll be skipping some of May busyness on the way to Santiago? Thanks in advance for your reply.

I am a once-only (so far) CF walker so others may offer better advice, but I have heard that Easter and the following week are very busy.
In 2024 Easter is early so my guess is that mid-April will be good for you.
Might be good to check the Spanish public holidays and plan where you will stop at those times?

 

[dougfitz]

I am a once-only (so far) CF walker so others may offer better advice, but I have heard that Easter and the following week are very busy.
In 2024 Easter is early so my guess is that mid-April will be good for you.
Might be good to check the Spanish public holidays and plan where you will stop at those times?

My experience walking at Easter is now quite dated. I walked at that time in 2010, a Holy Year, and there were many Spaniards walking until around Easter Tuesday, when many of them left to return home (I presume). The pilgrim numbers jumped massively that year, about 275 thousand up from just under 150 thousand in 2009. But no-one told me it was crowded, so it didn't really bother me that it was a little difficult to find a bed in places. I slept in the school gym at Zubiri, and walked on in a couple of other places, but after Los Arcos, things improved.

ps the only place that I heard of anyone getting their pack carried early on was at O Cebreiro, and only saw it one more time shortly after Palas de Rei. Booking seemed to be relatively uncommon, but there were places that clearly did take bookings, and there were places where 'tourigrinos' were clearly unwelcome. I never did find out at that time how one became labelled a tourigrino, nor did I feel inclined to do so.

 

[Olimpia]

Greetings!

My father and I are planning on walking the Camino Frances, departing SJPDP on May 30. I've booked Orrison and Roncessvalles, and then planned to take things as they come - much as I did when I did my first camino in 2017. Dad has dived head first and the latest wave of camino congestion has him panicking. He's discussing if it would make sense to change routes. This will be his first camino. The FB post by the Albergue in Roncessvalles has him doubly concerned.

I seem to recall that late April/early May is traditionally a very busy time on the Camino and then things taper off as we move into summer. Is that memory correct? He's looking to me for advice, and we've discussed the possiblity of hopping over to the Invernio if time allows. His mom has recently passed and he wants to visit all the "traditional" sites, leaving a stone along the way. (I've explained that there isn't one Camino...but...dad's hear what they want to! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ) I think as much as he would like the Frances, he most importantly doesn't want to be in a bed race every night, or making reservations the whole way. Thoughts?

I just finished the Frances with my daughter. I had done it back in 2018 and wanted her to have the same experience I had. It didn't work as I expected mainly because my experience could not be repeated. I understand your desire to see your father enjoy the Camino as you did and have the same experience you had, but that will be impossible. Even for you, this time the Camino experience will be different. My daughter did not enjoy having to move from albergue to albergue every night, and other unpleasant aspects of the journey that I overlooked during my first camino. Now in retrospect I wish we had done the Norte instead of the Frances because she loves the ocean and that would have made her experience more enjoyable. Probably your dad will enjoy a less crowded Camino.

 

[NorthernLight]

The Aragon is quite doable, especially between Somport and Jaca and to Arres, and gronze has good info. If you are unsure of your footing, it is possible to walk down (facing traffic) on the national highway (although some of the parts between Castiello de Jaca and Jaca can be harrowing so slow but sure on the footpath may be best. After Arres, make sure you have enough water. There is not much accommodation between Sanguesa and Monreal and Sanguesa has a surprising lack of accommodation options for such a tourist town.

You can also hop a bus from Jaca and move over to Pamplona. This gives you a beautiful mountain view without the 27 km slog from St Jean pied de port to Roncessvales and without the crowds or bed crunch.

 

[Rafael1214]

I am a once-only (so far) CF walker so others may offer better advice, but I have heard that Easter and the following week are very busy.
In 2024 Easter is early so my guess is that mid-April will be good for you.
Might be good to check the Spanish public holidays and plan where you will stop at those times?

Good point about early Easter in 2024. Mid-April might be ideal which is right after Easter. Thanks again.

 

[AZtor]

Good point about early Easter in 2024. Mid-April might be ideal which is right after Easter. Thanks again.

It's also far enough away that you can pre-book for the Easter days. I'd love to be in Spain for Easter.

 

[Bradypus]

For those who are thinking about an Easter Camino I thoroughly recommend the Primitivo. I timed my arrival in Oviedo for Holy Week so that I could see the Sudarium which is only on display a couple of times each year. Oviedo in Holy Week also has a big programme of processions of capirotes which are quite a sight for this Brit! The Primitivo is a much quieter alternative to the Frances for those who are willing to walk longer stages and enjoy hills.

 

[Rafael1214]

My experience walking at Easter is now quite dated. I walked at that time in 2010, a Holy Year, and there were many Spaniards walking until around Easter Tuesday, when many of them left to return home (I presume). The pilgrim numbers jumped massively that year, about 275 thousand up from just under 150 thousand in 2009. But no-one told me it was crowded, so it didn't really bother me that it was a little difficult to find a bed in places. I slept in the school gym at Zubiri, and walked on in a couple of other places, but after Los Arcos, things improved.

ps the only place that I heard of anyone getting their pack carried early on was at O Cebreiro, and only saw it one more time shortly after Palas de Rei. Booking seemed to be relatively uncommon, but there were places that clearly did take bookings, and there were places where 'tourigrinos' were clearly unwelcome. I never did find out at that time how one became labelled a tourigrino, nor did I feel inclined to do so.

Thanks for additional insights and your experience. It always helps.

 

[Rafael1214]

It's also far enough away that you can pre-book for the Easter days. I'd love to be in Spain for Easter.

Would love to be there too for Easter. We’ll see what the future brings. Thanks!

 

[Rafael1214]

For those who are thinking about an Easter Camino I thoroughly recommend the Primitivo. I timed my arrival in Oviedo for Holy Week so that I could see the Sudarium which is only on display a couple of times each year. Oviedo in Holy Week also has a big programme of processions of capirotes which are quite a sight for this Brit! The Primitivo is a much quieter alternative to the Frances for those who are willing to walk longer stages and enjoy hills.

Wow! Wouldn’t that be awesome?

 

[Clover]

Greetings!

My father and I are planning on walking the Camino Frances, departing SJPDP on May 30. I've booked Orrison and Roncessvalles, and then planned to take things as they come - much as I did when I did my first camino in 2017. Dad has dived head first and the latest wave of camino congestion has him panicking. He's discussing if it would make sense to change routes. This will be his first camino. The FB post by the Albergue in Roncessvalles has him doubly concerned.

I seem to recall that late April/early May is traditionally a very busy time on the Camino and then things taper off as we move into summer. Is that memory correct? He's looking to me for advice, and we've discussed the possiblity of hopping over to the Invernio if time allows. His mom has recently passed and he wants to visit all the "traditional" sites, leaving a stone along the way. (I've explained that there isn't one Camino...but...dad's hear what they want to! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ) I think as much as he would like the Frances, he most importantly doesn't want to be in a bed race every night, or making reservations the whole way. Thoughts?

I really loved the Camino. We did the last section first (Sarria to Santiago) - actually a few years before! We both were working and could only take a little off…just too busy. Our goal was to do the “rest” or 420 more miles once we retired. Here is what I wish we could have done….done the last section first but in the same trip, then get back to SJPP with “trail legs” and do the 420 second. No matter how you do it, it is great as long as you take it as slowly as you like—“walk your own walk!” As they say!!

 

[forrestroze]

You can start as planned on the Francés and if you want to avoid the masses coming out of Sarria, simply hang a left in Ponferrada and take the Camino Invierno into Santiago. Very well marked, very few Pilgrims and a beautiful route.

My mom and I are walking the Frances again this year. Sarria was a challenge for us the first time we walked due to such a drastic change in the amount of people and the large groups; obviously, we avoided this on our walk from Porto. Do you have suggestions for me on how to research the Invierno from Ponferrada before I start to dive in on this possible change of plan? I will probably get Brierley’s guide and start a good ol’ Google search, but any other (more targeted) info would be much appreciated.

 

[Bradypus]

Do you have suggestions for me on how to research the Invierno from Ponferrada before I start to dive in on this possible change of plan?

The Gronze website for the Invierno would be a good place to start. Lots of information and route descriptions.

Camino de Invierno | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

El Camino de Invierno es el trazado jacobeo que une Ponferrada con Santiago de Compostela pasando por el valle del río Sil y la Ribeira Sacra. Se trata de una gran variante meridional del Camino Francés que evita las cumbres del Cebreiro, y que por tanto resulta más asequible en invierno, como...

www.gronze.com

 

[Pepper_E]

My mom and I are walking the Frances again this year. Sarria was a challenge for us the first time we walked due to such a drastic change in the amount of people and the large groups; obviously, we avoided this on our walk from Porto. Do you have suggestions for me on how to research the Invierno from Ponferrada before I start to dive in on this possible change of plan? I will probably get Brierley’s guide and start a good ol’ Google search, but any other (more targeted) info would be much appreciated.

You should find a good bit of information here on this forum. The Invierno is a beautiful walk, but along with fewer pilgrims comes fewer services, so I it’s good that you’re doing a little research & planning before you start. Also, the route takes a few more days than just continuing on the Francés. Absolutely a much different experience than dealing with the crowds starting in Sarria.

 

[AZtor]

Yeah there's more chatter about the alternate start and end routes. I thought I was being clever in choosing the Aragones and Invierno... but I think I'll have more company than normal. As long as it isn't crowding accommodations I think that'll be swell.

 

[J Willhaus]

Yeah there's more chatter about the alternate start and end routes. I thought I was being clever in choosing the Aragones and Invierno... but I think I'll have more company than normal. As long as it isn't crowding accommodations I think that'll be swell.

I doubt it will be too crowded.

 

[AZtor]

I doubt it will be too crowded.

I actually am happy if there are more than usual as sometimes people report seeing no one. I like having a little company

 

[gerrym]

Greetings!

My father and I are planning on walking the Camino Frances, departing SJPDP on May 30. I've booked Orrison and Roncessvalles, and then planned to take things as they come - much as I did when I did my first camino in 2017. Dad has dived head first and the latest wave of camino congestion has him panicking. He's discussing if it would make sense to change routes. This will be his first camino. The FB post by the Albergue in Roncessvalles has him doubly concerned.

I seem to recall that late April/early May is traditionally a very busy time on the Camino and then things taper off as we move into summer. Is that memory correct? He's looking to me for advice, and we've discussed the possiblity of hopping over to the Invernio if time allows. His mom has recently passed and he wants to visit all the "traditional" sites, leaving a stone along the way. (I've explained that there isn't one Camino...but...dad's hear what they want to! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ) I think as much as he would like the Frances, he most importantly doesn't want to be in a bed race every night, or making reservations the whole way. Thoughts?

I am arriving in SJPDP on Mat 30th and starting on May 31st. I have booked St Jean, Orisson, Roncesvalles and Zubiri at that point I'm hoping to judge if necessary to book others along the way. I travelling alone. So hoping it's not too busy.

 

[J Willhaus]

I actually am happy if there are more than usual as sometimes people report seeing no one. I like having a little company

We did have a total of 9 pilgrims together at Arres last year in June at the albergue when we were walking as pilgrims. The next night at Artiede, we were the only pilgrims as the others walked on further. We had very few pilgrims at Canfranc Pueblo last July when we volunteered. It is a beautiful route, but usually not taken by first time pilgrims. There are fewer services along the way and bag transport isn't much of a thing (can only be arranged with Correos in advance and they don't transport on the weekends). It is a little less comfortable as there are fewer places to stay with fewer private rooms and one must stay in albergues in some locations. There are also fewer buses and taxi's available. As a result, it appeals to fewer pilgrims than some of the more supported routes. We'll be at Arres from June 1-15 and looking forward very much to this year's volunteer service.

 

[forrestroze]

You should find a good bit of information here on this forum. The Invierno is a beautiful walk, but along with fewer pilgrims comes fewer services, so I it’s good that you’re doing a little research & planning before you start. Also, the route takes a few more days than just continuing on the Francés. Absolutely a much different experience than dealing with the crowds starting in Sarria. View attachment 146132

Great thank you! We were just a bit bummed (I mean, one can't be too bummed walking the Camino!), but we found it harder to find our Camino family, until we reached Santiago, and the 'vibe' was so different from what we were accustomed to - I'm sure y'all know what I mean.

 

[WalkingInGers]

I would seriously advise walking the Arles/Aragonese route first. So much to sde. I hear horror stories about pilgrims being turned away from RONCESVALLES.

 

[WalkingInGers]

We did have a total of 9 pilgrims together at Arres last year in June at the albergue when we were walking as pilgrims. The next night at Artiede, we were the only pilgrims as the others walked on further. We had very few pilgrims at Canfranc Pueblo last July when we volunteered. It is a beautiful route, but usually not taken by first time pilgrims. There are fewer services along the way and bag transport isn't much of a thing (can only be arranged with Correos in advance and they don't transport on the weekends). It is a little less comfortable as there are fewer places to stay with fewer private rooms and one must stay in albergues in some locations. There are also fewer buses and taxi's available. As a result, it appeals to fewer pilgrims than some of the more supported routes. We'll be at Arres from June 1-15 and looking forward very much to this year's volunteer service.

You will be replacing the current hospitaleros, Michael?

 

[trecile]

I would seriously advise walkin the Arles/Aragonese route first. So much to sde. I hear horror stories about pilgrims being turned away from RONCESVALLES.

Yes, pilgrims who arrived at Roncesvalles without reservations during the long holiday weekend were turned away, but that's not a permanent year round condition, and a problem easily solved in advance by reserving a bed there.

 

[J Willhaus]

You will be replacing the current hospitaleros, Michael?

No, there should be a new hospitalero/s May 16 to 31 and we will replace them on June 1.

 

[WalkingInGers]

No, there should be a new hospitalero/s May 16 to 31 and we will replace them on June 1.

This will become a favorite site..

 

[Texas Walker]

Personally - for a first Camino - I recommend starting in SJPDP and just reserving SJPDP through Zubiri. Once you reach Pamplona - it is usually better for finding beds last minute. If worried, you could always book the night before or in the morning before you start walking. But - many places don't accept reservations. I did the Frances in 2021 and Norte/Primitivo in 2022. The Norte was gorgeous - but I felt very isolated from other Pilgrims quite often - especially when I stayed in private rooms. I felt that the Frances and Primitivo gave me more of a feeling of being a pilgrim, whereas on the Norte - I just felt like I was hiking through normal towns/cities without feeling like a pilgrim. Hard to explain...

I noticed a difference on the Norte, too. Fewer churches open for a pilgrim passing by to visit. A couple of towns where I didn't feel as welcomed as on the Norte, or on the Portugues, or on the Salvador and Primitivo for that matter. I put it down to a lot of tourism for (centuries?) a long time.
For me the most difficult part of the Norte, aside from knees, was the first week when there was so very much climbing. But YMMV on that, perhaps you don't live in flatland like I do.
BC

 

[Texas Walker]

I am a once-only (so far) CF walker so others may offer better advice, but I have heard that Easter and the following week are very busy.
In 2024 Easter is early so my guess is that mid-April will be good for you.
Might be good to check the Spanish public holidays and plan where you will stop at those times?

Ah, one more little thought: soccer tournaments. These can tie up lodging in places, and the family soccer parties can take up the entirety of restaurants. (Not to mention Estella.)
OTOH, when DH had a broken leg (we didn't know it) and I was frantically searching Deba for an open farmacia to get an ace bandage, with no luck, that was actually what we needed. Santiago was watching over us. If we had found the ace bandage the leg would have cr*pped out someplace on the 27k walk to Markina. Not good. As it was, when we woke up in Deba albergue he looked at his still swollen ankle, now more swollen, and we hopped the train to Bilbao and on the first workday we went to the clinica, then the Urgencia, then I made reservations to fly home.
Sometimes "you will receive what you need" doesn't agree with what you think you want.
So you might want to check the dates if it seems like Google maps is showing high rates for a place, maybe there is a soccer tournament and everyone is coming into town to watch.
BC

 

[Former member 92300]

I noticed a difference on the Norte, too. Fewer churches open for a pilgrim passing by to visit. A couple of towns where I didn't feel as welcomed as on the Norte, or on the Portugues, or on the Salvador and Primitivo for that matter. I put it down to a lot of tourism for (centuries?) a long time.
For me the most difficult part of the Norte, aside from knees, was the first week when there was so very much climbing. But YMMV on that, perhaps you don't live in flatland like I do.
BC

Yes. I did like the Primitivo much better than the Norte. The Norte was beautiful - just felt like a like through cities instead of a pilgrimage.

And - I also live in flatland. We do have some mountains nearby - but the vast majority of my walks are on flat terrain.

 

[KathyRugg]

I’m on the CF right now - reaching Carrion today. It is VERY busy. Accommodation really has to be booked wherever possible. Long queues at bars for service…. It’s also hot as Spain is experiencing a heatwave. But it is what it is - and this is where I’d rather be!

It must vary day to day. I got to Carrión yesterday with no reservation and got a spot in one of the places run by the nuns. Got a table for lunch at a place in Plaza Mayor with no waiting. It a beautiful town!

 

[StewartJ]

Another option from Bayonne is the Tunnel Route/Vasco Interior/ Via Bayonne. It is well marked from Irun, and the section from Bayonne (or even Biarritz train station) to Irun is fairly well marked - the Voie Littoral after Biarritz station is definitely recommended.
The Vasco Interior goes to Santo Domingo, while the Via Bayona joins the CF at Burgos

https://www.gronze.com/camino-vasco

I've decided to reroute my planned Camino after reading around this post. It looks perfect for me...decent infrastructure, relatively quiet, scenic. ¡Muchas gracias! And thank you to the OP for starting a really engaging thread

 

[sonhador]

I've decided to reroute my planned Camino after reading around this post. It looks perfect for me...decent infrastructure, relatively quiet, scenic. ¡Muchas gracias! And thank you to the OP for starting a really engaging thread

We almost did the same, especially when we were unable to reserve Zubiri. But he was dead set on walking over the Pyrenees at least. A last look found us a bed in Zubiri, and hopefully it will all be smooth sailing from there. We leave in 3 days!

 

[Galuh]

Buen Camino