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El Camino Ingles - Update

JohnnieWalker

Nunca se camina solo
Donating Member
#1
Camino Ingles – 27 July - 1 August 2007


“Spend 5 days exploring Northern Spain with its sea views, wonderful scenery and the coolness of forest glades. Then have 2 days in Santiago de Compostela enjoying the many restaurants, visiting historic buildings including the magnificent Cathedral or simply sit in the square watching pilgrims arrive and life go by.”

Sounds like an advertisement for a City Break! But it is a very good description of the last week I spent on the Camino Ingles and then in Santiago. It is a perfect route for anyone who wishes to either prepare for a longer route or simply has one week’s vacation. The route from Ferrol is over 100 kms and therefore qualifies for a Compostela, the certificate of pilgrimage provided at the Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago. The other arm of the Camino Ingles from A Coruna (perhaps the more historically authentic!) is less than 100 – I will walk it another time.

Getting there

Is easy with either a Ryanair flight into Santiago or a Clickair flight into A Coruna – bus services readily available.


I found the postings on this site very useful and the CSJ Guide invaluable background. In particular Bill Murphy’s posting: viewtopic.php?t=1025 is very helpful as it can be printed out in the daily stages then each day pop the relevant sheet into a zip lock. But there are some issues with both this posting and the CSJ Guide.

First there seems to be some discrepancy on the distances of one of the stages – that from Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma with the CSJ claiming it is c24 k and Bill Murphy 34.8k. There are also claims in some other internet reports that there is a steep climb in this etapa which can take “hours”. I’m sure there will be other discussions on the distance but I would say don’t be put off by worrying about the exact distance – I took 8 hours of steady walking plus one of rest in two 30 mins periods. Water top ups are readily available along the way. I usually walk at a steady 4k per hour and the 3k “climb” took me 45 mins. It isn’t a mountain just a steady uphill walk on a forest path most of the way. Go for it!

That 3k uphill walk is one of the attractive aspects of this little route. There is considerable interest, the scenery is wonderful in parts and it also has some bite to give you a sense of achievement. The route is well waymarked and it looked to me as if there have been some very recent improvements in signing. For example in Bill Murphy’s post there is a point where he says “turn right” when actually the turn is Left – but when on the Camino always go with the yellow arrows and almost universally they are obvious.

I used exactly the same stages:

Day 1 Ferrol to Pontedeume 23.7 km (14.7 miles)
Day 2 Pontedeume to Betanzos 22 km (13.6 miles)
Day 3 Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma - distance to be agreed!
Day 4 Hospital de Bruma to Sigueiro 21.4 km (13.3 miles)
Day 5 Sigueiro to Santiago de Compostela 17 km (10.6 miles)


The route out of Ferrol isn’t terribly well waymarked although if you simply keep the sea to your right and go around the periphery of the town all will be well. The Tourist Office on the first floor of the building tucked into the corner of the Plaza Espana will provide a sello and a map of the city with the route marked in highlighter pen. For those who can’t obtain this and particularly want to walk the “exact” route here are the streets:

Pick some harbour steps on the Paseo da Marina
Turn left up Espiritu Santo
Veer left and head straight up to the Calle Real
There is a yellow /blue shell tile at the corner of Calle Terra indicating a right turn
but the map indicates the next right down Rural Cava - both take you to
Canton de Mollins through to the Plaza das Angustias then across the road
and up Taxonera leading to Calle McMahon leading to
Estrada Decircunvalacion – by this point regular waymarking has started
The yellow arrows take a straight route through a barrio
The highlighted map takes the path closest to the sea BOTH bring you a left turn before the motorway
which is waymarked

Accommodation
The hotels mentioned in other posts – The Hesperia in Ferrol – 981 330 226, the Hotel Eumesa in Pontedueme 981 430 925 or 981 430 901 and the Complejo San Roque in Betanzos 981 775 555 ALL charge a consistent 60 Euros. I had a good look around in each place and there are sufficient other less expensive options available.

There are albergues in Neda, Mino and Hospital de Bruma.

In Hospital de Bruma there is an excellent Albergue but no food or bar – a further 2k or so along the main road brings you to the well signposted Inn Canaima Meson do Vento – 981 681 401 – 22 Euros for an excellent room plus a home made Menu del Dia available in the dining room.

In Segueiro there is one Hostal the Hotel Miras which is just before the next waymark across the river. The telephone numbers listed everywhere previously are WRONG and I was anxious as I couldn’t get any answer. They explained that the wrong number had been published in one directory and it just stuck – the CORRECT number is 981 69 45 08. 15 Euros for a room – very basic but with excellent and reasonably priced home made food.

As always I simply asked one place to phone ahead to the next to make sure a room was available and they were happy to help.

Mass and Sellos

Ferrol – Sello available in the Tourist Office.

Pontedeume – busy parish Church of Santiago, priest lives opposite in the Rectory and happy to provide Sello – regular parish mass times.

Betanzos – the Church of Santiago appears only to have a 1pm mass on Festivos but the Church of SanFranciso easily found in the Old Town and served by Franciscan Nuns and Friars who were very pilgrim friendly has a 6.30 pm mass – sello available at other times from the convent office.

Sigueiro – the parish Church of St Andrew is just across the bridge 5 mins from the Hotel Miras – Mass at 7pm – sello available in Sacristy.


Best bits

Lovely solitary walking – I never met another pilgrim in 5 days.

The sea views, the smell of the sea and the cries of seagulls.

In Pontedeume instead of intoning the Gloria of the Mass the entire congregation burst into the chorus of the Battle Hymn of the Republic – Glory, glory, halleluia, Glory, glory, halleluia – glory, glory, halleluia El Nombre Del Senor!

In Betanzos the stunning church of San Francisco and the friendly nuns singing the Mass.

In Segueiro – a total bill of 30 euros for Bed and Breakfast, evening meal with an extra starter of pulpo and a bottle of wine + 3 copas to celebrate the journey nearly ending!

Worst bits

Not having done it before.

The torrential rain walking into Santiago and having to shelter under a lorry trailer for 30 minutes!


Most memorable

Following a waymarked turn on a sweltering road-bubbling afternoon to be plunged into the cool deep green darkness of a forest path with branches arched like a vaulted ceiling. Standing still when suddenly a shaft of light appeared like a spotlight on a stage illuminating the butterflies dancing along the path. Magical.

A conversation with a girl behind a Bar in Betanzos. She was from Brazil and had never heard of the Camino until she got here. She thought it was an extremely locissimo thing to do. Slowly her story emerged. A camino moment. She had arrived in Madrid, got a job, met a boy from Betanzos. Got pregnant aged 22. Moved to Betanzos. Boy left. Now working hard to maintain baby and herself. Having blurted all of that out she coughed and to change the subject asked me to tell her more about the Camino. When I finished her already careworn face looked wondrous – she said, “ Walking…alone…free…time to think…to rest…just to be… truly un regalo de Dios.”

Indeed.
 

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Peter Robins

Veteran Member
Donating Member
#2
Nice post, John.

Re the 'steep climb', I've just looked on Visor SigPac, and it seems the route rises to ca 460m just before Bruma. Have to admit I hadn't realised it was that high. (Though, in my book, 'steep' is when you have to use your hands :) )
 
#3
Wonderful inspiring practical posting. Shows real costings, places to stay with contact numbers and describes moments to savour on the Camino.

Best of all we now know it is possible for one place of stay can phone ahead to inform of the impending arrival of the person or persons needing a place to stay. No need to carry a mobile or phone card.

This will make it easier to convince our better half that there is no need to queue for hours at the door of a refugio, endure cold showers, sleep on the floor, endure the snoring, leave at the crack of dawn without a hot drink or thing to eat, stave off dogs, have blistered feet, etc. to make the second Camino.

Thank you for bringing reality back to these postings.

Grandpa Joe
 

JohnnieWalker

Nunca se camina solo
Donating Member
#4
Joe - in terms of accomodation now I would simply get to Ferrol confident in the knowledge that there are a number of hotels and hostals. I had booked in advance but when I got there I wished I had been able to explore more to find a place - particularly down by the harbour. The CSJ guide lists alternative accomodation here and in the next place Neda - some people set off for there on the first day. If you go to the Tourist Office in Ferrol they will help you book what you need along the route - similarly each night I simply checked what was available in the next place I was walking to.

Buen Camino

John
 
#5
Thanks John, great post!
I think next time I will walk the same stages as you did. It's just a shame that the albergues in Neda and Mino are in between.
I'm still surprised how few are walking the Ingles. On the other hand, that's one of the beauties of this Camino, especially if you read about recent reports on overcrowding on the Frances...
Rolf
 

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JohnnieWalker

Nunca se camina solo
Donating Member
#7
Mardo - the route is really well waymarked - the CSJ guide and the information on this site will be enough - promise! :)
 

Jim

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2006- Camino Portuguese
2008- Camino Frances
2009- Sanabres extension of the VDLP
2010- Camino Frances
2011- Camino Potuguese
2014- Camino Frances
2017- Camino Finisterre
#8
Hi,
Is there a graphic chart anywhere on the elevations along the Camino Ingles? I love John Brierley's graphics on this that are published in his books on Camino Portuguese and Camino Frances.

Another thing... Who can issue pilgrim credentials along this route? And where? Heard that the Office of Pilgrims at the cathedral will not be accepting those credentials given by secular organizations. Really a shame about this! We plan on walking this route in late spring this coming year and already have a letter of introduction from my own church so that we might get the proper credentials.
 

sillydoll

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2002 CF: 2004 from Paris: 2006 VF: 2007 CF: 2009 Aragones, Ingles, Finisterre: 2011 X 2 on CF: 2013 'Caracoles': 2014 CF and Ingles 'Caracoles":2015 Logrono-Burgos (Hospitalero San Anton): 2016 La Douay to Aosta/San Gimignano to Rome:
#9
You will find a graphic profile of all the stages at Mundicamino: (Copy the whole URL and paste it)
http://www.mundicamino.com/ruta.cfm?p=T ... ol&xfin=Miño&xne=1&quees=Trazado%20/%20Perfil

Not a profile map, but for strip maps of the route go to: http://www.amigosdelcamino.com/

On the right hand side click on: Caminos
Then Camino Ingles
Then on the top tool bar click on Mappas

For photos go to: http://www.santiago-compostela.net/ingl ... ci_en.html

For more info on the route: http://www.caminosantiago.org/cpperegri ... ngles.html
 

JohnnieWalker

Nunca se camina solo
Donating Member
#10
Jim - you can get a credencial, a map of the route and a detailed road map of the route out of Ferrol from the tourist office there - it is on the first floor of a glass fronted office building tuckedinto the left hand corner of the Plaza Espana.

Buen Camino

John
 

Jim

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2006- Camino Portuguese
2008- Camino Frances
2009- Sanabres extension of the VDLP
2010- Camino Frances
2011- Camino Potuguese
2014- Camino Frances
2017- Camino Finisterre
#11
Sil, John
Thanks for that info

-Joanie and Jim
 

JohnnieWalker

Nunca se camina solo
Donating Member
#12
Hola

I just walked this route again from Ferrol having walked from A Coruna a few weeks ago. The waymarking has deteriorated and the temporary waymarking around the new roadways that I found really helpful a year ago has been removed - there were also sections which were surprisingly confusing - trees had been felled and undergrowth cut back removing arrows.There are also new sections not described in the CSJ guide of 2000. I have extensive notes to write up and with Rebekah's help we'll give a full up date to the CSJ soon.

The local Amigos haven't repainted arrows yet but there are also other issues around the accommodation situation and the length of the stages which need to be desribed in greater depth.

In the interim if anyone is walking on this route very soon pm me for further info if you wish.
 

sillydoll

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2002 CF: 2004 from Paris: 2006 VF: 2007 CF: 2009 Aragones, Ingles, Finisterre: 2011 X 2 on CF: 2013 'Caracoles': 2014 CF and Ingles 'Caracoles":2015 Logrono-Burgos (Hospitalero San Anton): 2016 La Douay to Aosta/San Gimignano to Rome:
#14
Alexander - welcome to the forum. Your boyfriend could read Gareth's blog at :
http://whizz-kidz-pilgrim.blogspot.com/

He recently walked from England to Santiago (and then to Finisterre) using the Via Turonensis which goes through Paris and Tours. Then he walked the Camino Ingles which is a short 107km route from Ferrol on the north coast to Santiago.
 
#17
hi Johnnie!

Your posts are most helpful.
I'm doing camino ingles in July starting on the 8th. I'm all exciting but there's a lot of preparation to be done.
Just can't wait.

Thanks for sharing your experience

hugs

Marta
 

Anniesantiago

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Nearly every year since 2006, often walking more than one route. 2018 will be Camino #14.
#19
You people "are killin me man!"

So many Caminos and only 3 months!

Where to start?

Now THIS one looks like a good place to begin August 18...walk to Santiago... bus to Leon... walk to Santiago... then walk backwards on the VDLP until the time is up.... hmmmmmmmmmmm :?:
 

sillydoll

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2002 CF: 2004 from Paris: 2006 VF: 2007 CF: 2009 Aragones, Ingles, Finisterre: 2011 X 2 on CF: 2013 'Caracoles': 2014 CF and Ingles 'Caracoles":2015 Logrono-Burgos (Hospitalero San Anton): 2016 La Douay to Aosta/San Gimignano to Rome:
#20
Annie, this is my dream 6-in-one camino

1) Start at Lourdes and walk the last section of the Voie de Arles to Somport (6 days).
2) Walk the stunning Aragones to Pamplona (9 days).
3) Bus or train to Leon and walk the 120km on 'el Salvador' to Oviedo (6 days) "Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y deja al Señor." Whoever goes to Saint James and not to the Saviour, visits the servant and misses the Master.
4) Walk the Primitivo from Oviedo to Lugo (260kms - 12 days)
5) Bus to Ferrol to walk the Ingles to Santiago (5 days)
6) Walk to Finisterre and Muxia (5 days)

And then, if you still have time - walk the Portuguese route from Porto. (11 days)
With traveling in between starting points and a few detours along the way this still adds up to only 2 months.
 

Anniesantiago

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Nearly every year since 2006, often walking more than one route. 2018 will be Camino #14.
#21
Dang, now that's a plan, Sil!
We laughed when we read it, but it's almost midnight and tomorrow we're going to look at the map.
Thanks :)
 

sillydoll

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2002 CF: 2004 from Paris: 2006 VF: 2007 CF: 2009 Aragones, Ingles, Finisterre: 2011 X 2 on CF: 2013 'Caracoles': 2014 CF and Ingles 'Caracoles":2015 Logrono-Burgos (Hospitalero San Anton): 2016 La Douay to Aosta/San Gimignano to Rome:
#23
Yes, I can see how it might look that way - or ticking off sightings on a bird list!
However, I've had a real desire to walk the Aragones but ever since a fellow South African wrote about walking from Lourdes, I thought I'd like to do the same.
I've walked the Camino Frances twice and thought it would be great to walk the el Salvador from Leon and continue on the Primitivo. But, I wouldn't want to walk the last bit of the Frances to Santiago so an alternative would be to stop at Lugo, get up to Ferrol and walk the Ingles to Santiago instead.
And, although I've been to Fistera twice, its been by bus and car, so I'd like to walk that route one day.
Next week I'll realise some of that dream trip by starting in Lourdes and walking to Pamplona: walking the Ingles to Santiago and then the Fistera route.
The el Salvador and Primitivo will have to wait for another time.
Something to dream about!
 

Canuck

Veteran Member
#24
Sil,

I see your rationale. It makes sense.

Enjoy your walk(s).

Personally, I'll be on the VDLP from 22\08 to 12\10, hoping for mild weather. Dreaming???

Cheers,
Jean-Marc
 

Anniesantiago

Veteran Member
Donating Member
Camino(s) past & future
Nearly every year since 2006, often walking more than one route. 2018 will be Camino #14.
#25
Hey Sil, be sure to post notes about the journey from Lourdes!
Buen Camino!
 

sillydoll

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2002 CF: 2004 from Paris: 2006 VF: 2007 CF: 2009 Aragones, Ingles, Finisterre: 2011 X 2 on CF: 2013 'Caracoles': 2014 CF and Ingles 'Caracoles":2015 Logrono-Burgos (Hospitalero San Anton): 2016 La Douay to Aosta/San Gimignano to Rome:
#27
Who is ticket punching?

Starting further back up a particular route is a good thing.
Walking a new route is a good thing.
Skipping routes already covered on the way to the tomb of St James is a good thing.
Visiting el Salvador is a good thing.
Walking the 'Original' way is a good thing.
Avoiding the crowds on the last 100km of the camino Frances is a good thing.
Walking to the end of the world is a good thing.

What's not good about that?
 
#29
Hello Johnnie Walker,

As an expert, I would like your opinion. I have a friend who wants to walk the Camino Frances from Sarria to Santiago in late March of 2010. From what I've read, it will be cold and very rainy then; plus crowded because of the holy week (not to mention the holy year). I want to do it in early May. Can I assume the weather will be better then? Also, after looking at everything, I've come to the conclusion that the Camino Ingles would be better (more scenic) and less crowded for doing the minimum to get the Compostela. Please advise your opinion. Anyone else that wants to chime in please do so.

Best wishes, Ken R.
 

JohnnieWalker

Nunca se camina solo
Donating Member
#30
Hola

Well who knows about the weather! The Camino Frances will be quieter around that time but things do hot up in Holy Week. Inevitably the Camino Ingles will be quieter and is a realistic choice. But if there is rain around Galicia I´d say there´s a good chance you´ll find it on the Ingles. Take good rain gear and hope for sunshine! I also always check the long range weather forecasts just before leaving and I´ve found them to be generally very helpful.

Best wishes

John
 
#31
Hello,

On march weather use to be cold but spring tries to appears. But, in the camino Ingles possibly you will find lots and lots of water and rain. But, even in may, no crowds as in the CF.

Buen Camino,

Javier Martin
Madrid, Spain.
 
#32
HI All

Having just completed the Camino Ingles ( 24th - 28th May ), a couple of quick observations...

Re Water - the Fuente's at the following points are now covered in warnings about the water quality , which could catch some out epecially as the weather hots up...

By Bar Julia and at Vizono on the Betanzos to Bruma/ Meson streach and behind the Church just after crossing the Rio Tambre when starting out from Sigueiro.

You can get Sellos at practically any Bar along the way and also in the Guarda Civil ( as we did in Betanzos !!)

Dont underestimate the mere 7 k from the picnic area 13k in on the Pontedeume to Batanzos streach
We, a group of fairly fit 30 and 40 somethings found this almost a hard as the dreaded ( but not actually that bad !!!..) long climb from Bar Julia .....

Will say that some of the straches seemed longer than suggested in the guide , but then I guess that could have been tiredness --- although more ridgeline traverses instead of stright ups and downs would have made things a little easier !

Aanyhow was a fantastic experience and certianly has given us the taste for more

Regards
 

JohnnieWalker

Nunca se camina solo
Donating Member
#33
Hola Andy

I'm really glad you enjoyed it. The Camino Ingles has real challenges but also a good sense of achievement at the end. It is lovely wee route.

Next time from A Coruna to Santiago to Finisterre/Muxia perhaps?

Were there any/many other pilgrims?

Best regards

John
 
#34
Hola John

Thanks for replying, and forgive the miss types !! well that suggestion might work as would love to see the end of the earth !!!

Thinking about the last 100 k or so of the portugese way actually , although how to arrange transport might be a challege , but early days all the same.

We met up with Ken Reid , an earlier poster ( and a really nice guy )to this thread on our first day out of Ferrol , but he decided to try and break the route up and stayed in Neda , where as we did your suggested stages.

There was a group of Italian ladies of a certain age who also started the same day as us - they where a really lovely bunch although only one of them spoke much english , we kept bumping into them along the way , as we are late starters but got faster as the days went !!( too many Cana's and tino's !) Fair play to them - they had done the Camino Frances in previous years and also walked Hadrians wall - hard core walkers !

There was also another American - Michelle - from Atlanta , who was doing the route on her own who we met up with outside Meson and also in Siguero ... again a lovley person who was actually in spain learning the language and teaching english as part of her masters.

We where also passed by a group of Italians when we had a break on day one but didnt meet up again.

so all in all quite busy.

Regards

Andy
 

sillydoll

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2002 CF: 2004 from Paris: 2006 VF: 2007 CF: 2009 Aragones, Ingles, Finisterre: 2011 X 2 on CF: 2013 'Caracoles': 2014 CF and Ingles 'Caracoles":2015 Logrono-Burgos (Hospitalero San Anton): 2016 La Douay to Aosta/San Gimignano to Rome:
#36
That's what I thought too, Johnnie!
Last year, at the end of June, we did not see one other pilgrims - not even a cyclist - on the camino Ingles.
 

lynnejohn

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2005), VDLP(2007), Madrid(2009), Ingles(2009), Sur (2011), VDLP(2011)-partial, VDLP(2014)
#37
We were there at the same time, Sil! Not one walking or riding pilgrim to be seen!

lynne
 

Tia Valeria

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pt Norte/Pmtvo 2010
C. Inglés 2011
C. Primitivo '12
Norte-C. de la Reina '13
C. do Mar-C. Inglés '15
#39
We found the following possible updates when on the Camino Inglés this year. All are being sent to Johnnie Walker for checking and to include where needed in the CSJ guide.

Ferrol to Neda; we think this is measured from the information office not the harbour. Add 3km to direct route.

Leaving Neda. On a Sunday most bars are closed. Cafe Bar Hermida, Avda Castelao 31 is open daily from 7am. (Free notebook and pencil and the lady will be hurt if you don't accept one)

Pontedeume. Confusing. First exit left, English style, goes over the pedestrian crossing and on to the Camino, road to Hospedaje Norte (not North) etc. First exit right Spanish style, goes along the riverside and now leads to the new albergue. (Open by arrangement 19.30-21.30 Tel 981 433 039)

Viadeiro p26 in guide. We found a tap at the end of the village in the fenced childrens' play area. Easy to miss it is at the top of the hill, but up above your head, as a road comes in from the right.
Also p26 the Guntin concrete works are on the right

Miño The albergue is now 5 euros. Disposable sheet and pillowcase provided. No blankets as far as we know.

Internet cafe for those who need one. From the albergue; turn right out of the gate and immediately right up the first road. Walk uphill past the Colegio to the main road. The Cyber is almost opposite you.

Betanzos to Casa Julia We were told that it is possible to sleep in the Centro Social in Cos, just before the church. Guide p35.
Also in Leiro p37 - to ask for the Bar Zapatero and ask to sleep in the Colegio (4 beds)
Both these from 4 Spanish pilgrims.

Vizoño If going to the Cafe Bar you do not need to retrace your steps but can carry on from the bar following yellow arrows on the road. Rejoin the Camino on road just before the right turn to As Travesas. Guide p38

Meson do Vento We think that p40 bottom should probably say from 'O Meson Novo or Hotel Canaima......first road on the left past Meson Novo not de Vento. This road leads back to the Camino as the rest of the instructions say.

Calle de Poulo - bar doesn't seem to open very early. Shut when we arrved just after 9am. Maybe we were just unlucky.

Hotel O Barreiro** marked as 1.5km off the Camino, to the right towards Fraga. We think we saw the sign between Carreira and Mámoas (p42) but this needs checking.

Buscas p42- After Bar Novo and the church we couldn't find any arrows or waymarks for about 1.5km along the road. Then there was a left turn onto a track (house on left) over a small bridge, and then right onto a shaded track. After that it is well marked again.

Sunday . Few bars open in Segueiro on a Sunday early. One we went in had coffee but no croissants. Try the opposite side of the road to Hostal Miras.

Also no bars open on the industrial estate on the way into Santiago. First open bar was at Meixonfrio near fork onto Rúa do Tambre.

Santiago Pablo Iglesias, several roads to cross, including the dual carriageway to reach Rúa da Pastoriza - just blindly follow Johnnie's guide and you'll find it. If in doubt ask a local, there is sure to be someone else crossing the road too.

Johnnie Walker's CSJ guide is excellent. He has updates he found recently and updates others, like ourselves, find to add in for this year. If anyone does check out the extra stopping places please do let Johnnie know.

Johnnie I've posted these here while you are on Camino and they are in an e-mail to you as requested.
Buen Camino
 

daesdaemar

Camino-holic
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Ingles - twice
#40
I just completed the CI last week.

With all respect to Johnny (his guide is invaluable) there is a major descriptive error that nearly brought me to tears on the long day last year (Betanzos to Bruma), which has yet to be corrected. It is very confusing, at least to me. On page 19 of his guide I have reproduced the paragraph with proposed corrections in parentheses:

KSO passing farm buildings to the Right hand side and after 800 meters there is a yellow arrow pointing straight ahead and immediately (actually, about 200 meters) see a waymark (waymark has been turned over face-down into a deep ditch. However, there is a yellow arrow painted on the pole) with path going off to the Left. Follow this dirt track (actually a well-paved minor road) watching out for arrows and on a small power pylon ahead there is an arrow pointing to the Right. When this track joins a minor road follow the waymark and turn Right.
 

Tia Valeria

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pt Norte/Pmtvo 2010
C. Inglés 2011
C. Primitivo '12
Norte-C. de la Reina '13
C. do Mar-C. Inglés '15
#41
On another thread also
Daesdaemar wrote-
Several waymarks have been vandalized (mostly before/after Pontedeume. The tile has been painted black and a yellow arrow painted in the WRONG direction. You must get up close to see through the thick black paint to determine the correct direction.
If you keep to Johnny's guide you will be OK, but you do have to look hard at the mojon. We couldn't remember where this was - there was only one vandalised like this when we passed in May.

Page numbers- ours are all given using the 2011 PDF version of the guide, which makes Daesdaemars update in the post above p39 instead of p19. (After Vizoño and before the red house No 1 A Rivela)
Hopefully if using a different printout folk can find our updates OK
 

JohnnieWalker

Nunca se camina solo
Donating Member
#42
Hola

Thanks very much for all of these comments. I take no responsbility for waymarks which have fallen into ditches or toilets which have run out of toilet paper - yes - someone wrote to me saying "the toilet you mention on page X is still there but when I visited there was no toilet paper." The general principle must be to follow the arrows. Indeed I am inclining to the view that sometimes guides can be too specific. There also has to be adventure!

Best regards

John
 

Tia Valeria

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pt Norte/Pmtvo 2010
C. Inglés 2011
C. Primitivo '12
Norte-C. de la Reina '13
C. do Mar-C. Inglés '15
#43
Welcome back Johnny.
The guides being specific is IMHO good. Without that there are places where it would be easy to stray, particularly where waymarks have been vandalised or fallen over etc.
We were certainly glad of your very clear directions, with updates as needed.
God bless as you settle into life in Santiago,
Tio Tel and Tia Valeria
 
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#45
JohnnieWalker said:
I take no responsbility for waymarks which have fallen into ditches or toilets which have run out of toilet paper - yes - someone wrote to me saying "the toilet you mention on page X is still there but when I visited there was no toilet paper." The general principle must be to follow the arrows. Indeed I am inclining to the view that sometimes guides can be too specific. There also has to be adventure!
Since we are on the subject of toilets, I guess it's your fault as well that in 2009 the toilets at Leiro were closed for refurbishment. It's good to have someone to blame. :D

To be pedantic your Camino Inglés guide actually tells us on two specific occasions to ignore the yellow arrow because they will take you down a blind alley. You were absolutely right to do so.

You may have a sense of adventure but you also know when to give us wise advice.

I, for one, am not leaving home without a CSJ guide - ever.
 

daesdaemar

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#46
methodist.pilgrim.98 said:
To be pedantic your Camino Inglés guide actually tells us on two specific occasions to ignore the yellow arrow because they will take you down a blind alley. You were absolutely right to do so.
You are absolutely right! Having done the Ingles twice, the vast majority of markers will lead you on in the right direction. But occasionally some trickser assumes it would be funny to get a pilgrim lost :(
 

daesdaemar

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#47
Tia Valeria said:
Page numbers- ours are all given using the 2011 PDF version of the guide, which makes Daesdaemars update in the post above p39 instead of p19. (After Vizoño and before the red house No 1 A Rivela)
Hopefully if using a different printout folk can find our updates OK
Yes, my error. It is page 39 in the 2011 guide. Sorry!
 

Arn

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#48
Pontedeuma...Albergue to right after crossing bridge. If closed go to the two story white govt bldg on your left. They can get key. Very clean, hot showers.
Rain, rain, rain!!!
Breaking the 29km in two. Stopping at Meson de Novo in Bruma. They will pick up up at Bar Julia and bring you back in the morning. Staying here two nights. The family us fantastic and food superb!

Thanks to JW and all for good tips.

Only met two other pilgrims to date.

Arn
 

daesdaemar

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#49
Arn said:
Pontedeuma...Albergue to right after crossing bridge. If closed go to the two story white govt bldg on your left. They can get key. Very clean, hot showers.
Rain, rain, rain!!!
Breaking the 29km in two. Stopping at Meson de Novo in Bruma. They will pick up up at Bar Julia and bring you back in the morning. Staying here two nights. The family us fantastic and food superb!

Thanks to JW and all for good tips.

Only met two other pilgrims to date.

Arn
Very good tip on how to access the albergue. I had trouble with that last year. Thanks.
 

Mws

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#50
Johnnie Walker; I hear you work at the pilgram office. I might have left a SanDisk 2GB memory stick in the compostella office in Santiago on 28 May. I changed the memory cards in my camera that day, downstairs in the office. I checked back about four days latter and asked someone to take a look in the lost and found. No luck. The SanDisk memory stick is somewhat rare, so if you come across one, or hear of someone finding one, between Santiago and Finisterra, please let me know. Thanks; Mark.
 

Tia Valeria

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#51
The latest CSJ guide to the Inglés (2012) by Johnnie Walker now has an update, available on-line, for the final section from Sigueiro to Santiago.
I think that Johnnie has flagged this up elsewhere, but thought it might be useful to add it here too
http://www.csj.org.uk/update-caminoingles-2013.htm
 

sulu

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#52
you can get a credencial, a map of the route and a detailed road map of the route out of Ferrol from the tourist office there - it is on the first floor of a glass fronted office building tuckedinto the left hand corner of the Plaza Espana.
This has now changed. The Tourist Office has now moved to 12 rua Magdalena, standing in front of the glass fronted building and facing forward rua Magdalena is to the left and diagonally opposite. It is one of the narrow streets that leads down to the port. They gave me instructions and information but didn't give me a proper credencial only an A4 sheet of paper with some squares on it. I was not impressed :( Later I saw others with proper credenciales, they had got them from the Concathedral of San Xulian in the Praza de Amboage.
 
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#53
September 11.

There were building work in Farrol that required a small detour just after leaving the docks you could not go straight after the arch instead turn right, left and left again to pass the closed road. I also went the wrong way due to the shells rays pointing the way. So wrong in my head as I see the rays as the caminos and the bulb as Santiago.

There was a detour due to roadwork with signs by the truck stop cafeteria Vilar do Colo. You will go through the industry area.
 

Tia Valeria

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#54
Beatrice, are you using Johnnie Walkers guide? If so it warns to carry food and water between Betanzos and Bruma, and it really is important as there are no bars/shops etc between Betanzos and Bar Julia. If Bar Julia is not open, which is often the case, then there is nothing until the bar just off the Camino at Vizoño. At Bruma again there are no supplies, food is often ordered in from Meson do Vento by the hospitalero - or it is a 2km walk each way to the cafes, shops, restaurant.

Other guides might not make this clear.....so posted 'just in case.....
 
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#55
Thanks for the reminder Tia. I do have the guide but haven't really read about tomorrow yet so thank you. I did stock up food today as I'm gluten intolerant and have a hard time to find things to eat while walking but the Gardis here in Pontedeume had quite a lot :)
 

alexwalker

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#56
Thank you for this, Johnnie. Your post and Peregrino_Tom's have made me want to try this after my next Frances in Apr/May 2014.
 

pilgrim b

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#58
February trek on the Camino Ingles - the only camino with aerial dinosaurs. We were the first pilgrims this year, according to several bar- and innkeepers. A wonderful walk, even in monsoon conditions.
The Camino Ingles -" the only camino with aerial dinosaurs.?"not sure what they are Rebekah can you enlighten me please. Are they Bats!!!
 

Rebekah Scott

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#59
The Camino Ingles -" the only camino with aerial dinosaurs.?"not sure what they are Rebekah can you enlighten me please. Are they Bats!!!
No, they are not bats, and there really is only one. It is large, but presents no risk to life, limb, or Pacer Poles. I posted a photo with my comment, but for some reason it did not load. I am a great lover of mystery, so I will leave this one dangling. Those who have walked already know. Those who have not? They can look forward to the aerial dinosaur experience.
 

pilgrim b

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#60
No, they are not bats, and there really is only one. It is large, but presents no risk to life, limb, or Pacer Poles. I posted a photo with my comment, but for some reason it did not load. I am a great lover of mystery, so I will leave this one dangling. Those who have walked already know. Those who have not? They can look forward to the aerial dinosaur experience.
Oh meany ;)
 

Tia Valeria

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#61
You will see a huge pilgrim (feet on ground), dinosaur and other aerial flights of fancy.................and it isn't because of the bar nearby
 
Last edited:
#62
Nice post, John.

Re the 'steep climb', I've just looked on Visor SigPac, and it seems the route rises to ca 460m just before Bruma. Have to admit I hadn't realised it was that high. (Though, in my book, 'steep' is when you have to use your hands :) )
my mum was born in Vilacoba and when I visit, after lunch I LOVE to climb all the way to Vizoño, I will be doing this climb on May 29th on our English Camino.
 

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#63
my mum was born in Vilacoba and when I visit, after lunch I LOVE to climb all the way to Vizoño, I will be doing this climb on May 29th on our English Camino.
We enjoyed the walk up to Vizoño and cafe con leche in the bar there. Some-one reported that it is now closed - sad if true. We would love to know if it was short term or truly permanent as we would hope to be there again next year. Any other bars that you know about in the area along the Camino between Betanzos and Vilacoba would also be helpful. We did hear of one (Bar Zapatero) in Leiro, but after we had passed there. Local knowledge is always very helpful.
Buen Camino
 

pilgrim b

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#64
We enjoyed the walk up to Vizoño and cafe con leche in the bar there. Some-one reported that it is now closed - sad if true. We would love to know if it was short term or truly permanent as we would hope to be there again next year. Any other bars that you know about in the area along the Camino between Betanzos and Vilacoba would also be helpful. We did hear of one (Bar Zapatero) in Leiro, but after we had passed there. Local knowledge is always very helpful.
Buen Camino
I will have a good look around next Sunday Valeria as we will be walking that stretch of the Ingles.
 
D

David L. Lewis

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#65
Marta there have been many additions and corrections to this post all contained in the CSJ Guide to the Camino Ingles available to download from http://www.csj.org.uk/guides-online.htm

I've also posted a slide show and description of my recent pilgrimage on this route on the blog below.

Regards

John
Johnnie, My wife I are planning on the camino Ingles, and was wondering if stretching it out to , maybe 7 days, if places to stay the night and places to eat would be difficult to find , as I see that most walks , and distances are laid out for 5 days, We are thinking of just walking , like 8 miles a day, to be able to take in the sites along the way. Thanks for any help, David
 

peregrina2000

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#66
Johnnie, My wife I are planning on the camino Ingles, and was wondering if stretching it out to , maybe 7 days, if places to stay the night and places to eat would be difficult to find , as I see that most walks , and distances are laid out for 5 days, We are thinking of just walking , like 8 miles a day, to be able to take in the sites along the way. Thanks for any help, David
Hi, David,
You might like this itinerary posted by Sil a while back.

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-ingles-in-11-days.23679/

buen camino, Laurie
 

Tia Valeria

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#67
Hola David,
We combined the 2 suggestions and made a 9 day pilgrimage by stopping at all the places given. We went to Meson Novo rather than staying at Bruma. Laurie's suggestion to check out Sil's itinerary is good. You can also check out our stages on our blog at May 2011
Buen Camino
 
D

David L. Lewis

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#69
Hola David,
We combined the 2 suggestions and made a 9 day pilgrimage by stopping at all the places given. We went to Meson Novo rather than staying at Bruma. Laurie's suggestion to check out Sil's itinerary is good. You can also check out our stages on our blog at May 2011
Buen Camino
thanks for the info,
 

Dennis M

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#70

Tia Valeria

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#71
D

David L. Lewis

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#72
Hola David,
We combined the 2 suggestions and made a 9 day pilgrimage by stopping at all the places given. We went to Meson Novo rather than staying at Bruma. Laurie's suggestion to check out Sil's itinerary is good. You can also check out our stages on our blog at May 2011
Buen Camino
Thanks, that is exactly what we are looking for,
 

Theatregal

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#73
We enjoyed the walk up to Vizoño and cafe con leche in the bar there. Some-one reported that it is now closed - sad if true. We would love to know if it was short term or truly permanent as we would hope to be there again next year. Any other bars that you know about in the area along the Camino between Betanzos and Vilacoba would also be helpful. We did hear of one (Bar Zapatero) in Leiro, but after we had passed there. Local knowledge is always very helpful.
Buen Camino
We passed through Vizono a couple of weeks ago and the bar is closed. It has been for some time according to a couple of farmers that we chatted with. Had been hoping to stop there as the Bar Julia was closed earlier in the day.
 

Tia Valeria

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#74
Thank you, we will go prepared.
 

Charrito

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#75
Casa Julia is almost always open these days. If not, there is NOTHING - apart from a couple of places off the Camino (the sign says 400 metres, but it's more like a kilometre).
 

Albertinho

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#76
If you happen to find Casa Julia closed , try knocking on the door or go around towards the back . If she is around and sees you , she´ll open up.

Ondo Ibili !
It can happen that a young boy shows up,maybe her son as happened to us.
He apologised that Julia was not there but served us with a drink .
image.jpg
 

Charrito

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#77
He's a real wum, the lad! I had a bet with him about the outcome of the England Uruguay match in the World Cup. I'd better get back to Casa Julia and pay him what I owe!

If you get there too early for a full meal, try one of their amazing bocadillos. Bacon (half a pig) and cheese inside half a loaf, all for 3 euros. But beware: you have that long and pretty steep climb immediately after leaving Casa Julia, and it's not recommendable to do it on a full stomach!
 

Tia Valeria

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#78
Thank you. We are thinking of phoning ahead and asking if Casa Julia will be open for coffee and bocadillo at least.
 

Charrito

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#79
Thank you. We are thinking of phoning ahead and asking if Casa Julia will be open for coffee and bocadillo at least.
When are you setting off? I really enjoyed the Camino Inglés, although there are some pretty steep climbs (out of Pontedeume and Betanzos, Matacabalos before Betanzos, and the one after Casa Julia), and would love to do it again. I will be doing the Camino Portugués with my wife in 10 days' time: her first Camino, so I thought I'd take her on an easy one! Next year, I really fancy the Camiño do Mar from Ribadeo, to join up with the Camino Inglés outside Ferrol.
 

Tia Valeria

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#80
We don't have a time yet, but not until next year.
We too are looking at walking part of the Camino del Mar and then going round to Ferrol and walking the Inglés again. There is a section for the Camino del Mar. Most of us have found that the stages don't match the accomodation and that a lot of research is needed to plan the route. We'll share more there as we do it (the research) and hopefully others, like yourself, will do so also.
 

Charrito

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#81
I'll reply on the Camiño do Mar thread.
 

Charrito

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#83
Charrito and Tia I am like minded, the Ingles calls loudly to me. So loud that I am even considering it as an option when I finish the Frances next month! However I do like Muxia and I have not yet walked from there to Finistera
You seem to have plenty of time on your hands, Al!

I LOVED the Camino Inglés, even though it can be quite tough at times. But 5 or 6 days is nothing really.

You can do Muxia to Fisterra in one day! How many Caminos have you done, sir?
 

Al the optimist

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#84
I am retired. I have walked the Ingles, Finistera, Muxia, Frances and El Salvador. A bit of the Madrid a few times too. Off to finish the Frances again next week and if I then don't go and visit Spanish friends who knows what!
 

Charrito

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#85
I am retired. I have walked the Ingles, Finistera, Muxia, Frances and El Salvador. A bit of the Madrid a few times too. Off to finish the Frances again next week and if I then don't go and visit Spanish friends who knows what!
Nice one! I'm English (originally from the north of your county, Staffordshire, although I'm really a manc - City fan, of course!), although I've been living in Spain for many years.

Once you get the Camino 'bug' there's no holding you back!
 

Al the optimist

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#86
I was born in Staffordshire too! Unfortunately due to urban sprawl and civic ambition my village of Wednesfield got absorbed by Wolverhampton and is now no longer in Staffs. :( Where are you in Spain then? PS I'm a Gunner for strange family reasons.
 

Al the optimist

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#87
BTW as I said I have not walked Muxia to Finistera but will take two days stopping at Lires as I have heard good things about it. I would onkly walk it after walking to Muxia first. I prefer Muxia to Finistera and the buses are better from Finistera. Incidentally I have walked SDC to Muxia in two days stopping at Negreria on the way. Never again! Far too hard - 68K in mid 30s heat. Ouch!!!
 

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#88
I was born in Staffordshire too! Unfortunately due to urban sprawl and civic ambition my village of Wednesfield got absorbed by Wolverhampton and is now no longer in Staffs. :( Where are you in Spain then? PS I'm a Gunner for strange family reasons.
I've been living in the beautiful cultural city of Salamanca for many years.
 

Albertinho

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#90
I've been living in the beautiful cultural city of Salamanca for many years.
Nice place. Was there after the camiño Ingles earlier this year in the beginning of June.
 
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#91
So, I'm planning to take a group of college students to do the Camino in May 2015-- probably 12-15 people total (including two profs). We're considering the Camino Inglés because of its length and because we're doing a pilgrimage in literature class, and will be reading the Wife of Bath's Tale as part of the course. I'm wondering how feasible it is in terms of finding lodging for a group, and if there are any issues that I should be aware of. Our students are generally very well-behaved, but I'll be pounding into their heads respect for other pilgrims and respect for the Camino itself. Our other option if we don't do the Inglés will probably be the last half of the Primitivo, from Lugo to Santiago, which I did a couple of years ago. Any suggestions for us? I'm a little nervous taking a group on Camino since I've never done it before.

Thanks!
 

Charrito

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#92
So, I'm planning to take a group of college students to do the Camino in May 2015-- probably 12-15 people total (including two profs). We're considering the Camino Inglés because of its length and because we're doing a pilgrimage in literature class, and will be reading the Wife of Bath's Tale as part of the course. I'm wondering how feasible it is in terms of finding lodging for a group, and if there are any issues that I should be aware of. Our students are generally very well-behaved, but I'll be pounding into their heads respect for other pilgrims and respect for the Camino itself. Our other option if we don't do the Inglés will probably be the last half of the Primitivo, from Lugo to Santiago, which I did a couple of years ago. Any suggestions for us? I'm a little nervous taking a group on Camino since I've never done it before.

Thanks!
This June on the Camino Inglés I came across a group (a bit bigger than yours, with around 20-odd students) who were doing the same. They had it all planned out and had arranged to stay in sports halls (the night I met them they were in Pontedeueme).

I seem to recall that they were going to make a detour and not have to walk the 30-35 kilometres from Betanzos to Bruma in one go.
 

Tia Valeria

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#93
With a group it might be worth checking out some of the places that opened their sports halls during the Holy Year, as well as those mentioned in Johnnie's guide. We also heard that the hall in Leiro was available in 2011, although it is not normally open - we met the 4 pilgrims who had slept there. Some places will find it hard to accommodate a group without good forward planning, especially as the Inglés is becoming more popular. Johnnie's latest updated guide gives the number of beds in the various albergues and most are fairly small.

If you find it difficult to organise accommodation an alternative route might be Lugo to Santiago via Palas de Rei where it is only the fist night which has limited accomodation, but there is a bookable private albergue there as well as the municipal at San Roman, and once on the Frances more choice of stopping places.
 

Albertinho

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#94
By coincidence I found out today ,being in the southern part of England on holiday that the camino Ingles started here in the town of Poole (Dorset) .
We noticed Saint James' scalop on the floor and lampposts at the harbourside and the council of Poole has the scalop in its crest.http://img.groundspeak.com/waymarking/e7da14d8-cb06-4bf2-a192-dc2c5c613315.JPG
The pilgrims in the early days boarded here on a ship that set for sail to a Coruña or Ferrol and from there they continued to Santiago de Compostela. image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 

Tia Valeria

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#95
@Albertinho - we found a similar historic note when waiting for our ferry in Plymouth. We didn't know about Poole, and the plaque at Plymouth said that there were only two ports licenced as exit ports for pilgrims. Very interesting thank you.

For those wanting to see the golden shell it is on the Barbican facing across to the harbour, not at the modern ferry port.
 

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Primitivo
#96
Right, I think we all need to 'POOLE' together, hire a boat and do the complete Camino Inglés.

Who's up for it?;)
 

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