Industrial Walking along the Norte...

[TheLaw14]

I will be walking my first camino starting in mid-September, and while my wife and daughter have graciously agreed to mind our business while I am gone, I only(!) have 39-40 days to complete my journey, including any rest days, and my intention is to walk from Irun to Finisterre... As I began planning this trip, I was of the opinion that paramount was walking the entire route, which would entail some mighty long days for a novice, and my local training hikes have already shown me there are limits to what my feet can endure from my 265 lb (semi-athletic) frame! I have already decided that I will spend my first night in Passajes de San Juan, as I'm certain I will be dealing with jet lag, and don't want to ruin the experience of the Purgatorio and the descent into San Sebastien. Having said this, I am starting to realize that 1) I have broken one of the cardinal rules of having booked a return flight, leaving no time flexibility, and 2) if I am going to fly across the ocean to 'go for a walk', why would I force myself to walk ugly sections that are certain to be harder on my feet, when I could bypass them and allow myself to then use the time gained to spend more time in beautiful settings and/or include the walk from Santiago to Finisterre?
A long-winded opening to get to my two questions!- Given my time frame, will I ultimately, likely be able to complete the entire route, as my feet and legs adapt to the travel, while still having time to enjoy some of the quaint villages along the Camino? If not, and push comes to shove, which parts of the Norte would you skip, based on unpleasant industrial urban walking?

 

[Tincatinker]

OK, so I composed a reply along the lines of "skip the entire Norte", "save yourself the flight costs and trauma", "go for a nice walk somewhere near where you live": and then I thought grumpy Tinkers should reign themselves in now and again. So, the Norte, do-able within your time-frame barring injury. In case of injury there are buses and trains (the FEVE) that will take you forward if necessary. Some might suggest that the walk out of Bilbao is a bit "industrial", some might suggest that the walk through Gijon is a bit "urban" but do you really want to waste valuable walking time trying to figure out public transport alternatives? Hanging about in Bus Stations and Rail Stations, spending time on your 'phone trying to decipher timetables or straining your Spanish at the ticket booth.

If, if, I really had to, I'd skip the bit where my feet/legs/shoulders/heart were really hurting and until I felt better. Where that would be is anyones guess.

 

[C clearly]

Hi @TheLaw14 . You are asking yourself an important question (2 above) that only you can answer.

I haven't walked the Norte, so can't give you any specific suggestions. However, I'll comment on my approach to this problem.

My first preference would be to start further ahead, so that once I start walking, I can probably walk all the way. However, if you really want to walk those early stages, and are still hoping to complete the entire route, my advice would be to pick a stage or two later in your itinerary, where you have a Plan B to be implemented if necessary. I would choose those stages to skip, and try to do the skipping all at once, based on transportation convenience (see post by @Tincatinker above) as well as your general interest in the area. Work out the transportation logistics for the Plan B in advance, and then put it away until/if you need it.

Skipping the ugly parts here and there can be disruptive to the continuity, as well as detracting from the "authentic" cultural experience.

 

[TheLaw14]

Funny about the first part of your statement, I HAVE noticed a number of people who tend to like to reply to posts on this forum in a negative fashion... I do appreciate that you reigned yourself in!... lol... I guarantee you I am no wallflower, nor irresolute about wanting to do this, just looking for options from those hwo have come before me...

 

[Dave]

A long-winded opening to get to my two questions!- Given my time frame, will I ultimately, likely be able to complete the entire route, as my feet and legs adapt to the travel, while still having time to enjoy some of the quaint villages along the Camino? If not, and push comes to shove, which parts of the Norte would you skip, based on unpleasant industrial urban walking?

It's impossible for any of us, you included, to answer that first question! With 39-40 days, you have some margin for error, so it's not immediately clear that you should start shedding kms. What are you capable of walking on training hikes? Have you tried getting out on consecutive days for some decent distance, to get a feel for how your legs might respond when you're there?

More to the point, my best suggestion would be to view the section between Gijón and Ribadeo as your cushion. If you need to skip ahead through part or all of that, there will be some losses for sure, but you'll also have enjoyed a significant part of the coast at that point, and then you still have time to rebuild some social connections with other pilgrims for the home stretch to Santiago.

It's definitely possible to knock off smaller bits and pieces along the way. For example, you might skip ahead from Gernika to Bilbao, and even from Bilbao to Portugalete (or even Pobeña). Those are very easy transport connections to make, especially between Lezama and Portugalete because of the metro. Jumping from Ribadesella to Gijón or Avilés might also be an option. Of course, the issues with this approach are that a) you don't actually know how much you need to trim at the earlier points, and b) the more small chunks you try to shave off, the more complicated it becomes, and the more time you'll potentially burn on fitting the transportation into your walking schedule.

In general, though, I'd suggest giving yourself the chance to settle in, make it to (or near) Bilbao, and see how things are going. That's the hardest stretch, in terms of terrain, so if you're doing well you'll be able to derive a lot of confidence from that, and if you're struggling a bit, you'll both know that it's going to get easier and have some options to consider for making your timeline work better for you.

 

[Tincatinker]

Funny about the first part of your statement, I HAVE noticed a number of people who tend to like to reply to posts on this forum in a negative fashion... I do appreciate that you reigned yourself in!... lol... I guarantee you I am no wallflower, nor irresolute about wanting to do this, just looking for options from those hwo have come before me...

Glad to see that. Me, I’m a fairly lazy sort of pilgrim. I can never see the point in climbing a hill that can be avoided, be that the “Napoleon” or the “Purgatorio” or bothering with sweating over alternatives until I need them.
I’d be likely to squander a couple of days on debauchery in San Sebastián or Llanes or Ribadeo and jump public transport if I really needed to or the hangover was really savage. Though a good walk is the best cure I’ve ever found.

All that said @C clearly ’s plan detailed above is a good one. Have a plan B

Happy planning

 

[TheLaw14]

As I re-evaluate, perhaps I was only looking for permission to engage in said debauchery, and since you seem to have given your blessing, I think I'm good to go!

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Norte is totally doable in 34 days. Add 4 days for Fin and Muxia. You're golden. Of course it depends on your fitness level. Start walking NOW!

 

[dick bird]

If you want to give yourself a margin of error, think about starting further along e.g. San Sebastian, Santander, Bilbao, rather than Irún. If you decide to leapfrog industrial areas, these are also urban areas so should be well-served by public transport, in particular trains: there is a line that runs along the north coast, worth the ride for its own sake. Alternatively, start in Irún, and see how you go.

 

[trecile]

I will spend my first night in Passajes de San Juan, as I'm certain I will be dealing with jet lag, and don't want to ruin the experience of the Purgatorio

If the visibility is poor the day that you start from Irun I would not take the Purgatorio route. The primary reason to go that way is for the views, but if you can't seen anything there is no point, IMO.

 

[Mananath]

I just completed the Norte in 31 days, from Irun to Santiago. I walked the river route out of Bilbao and it was fine. I walked to Oviedo and then back to Aviles, so avoided Gijon but it added a day. You have enough time to start walking and just see how you do. Start slow and eventually you will be able to easily walk longer days. I had a bunch of 20mi days (and one 29mi day).

 

[512]

We’ve done the Norte twice; in 2017, at age 60 and untrained, and again in 2019.

Our first camino was a “proper” pilgrimage, we walked every day and stayed in albergues every night. We averaged 20km days and finished well within your time frame. We did take the train once, from Gijon to Muros de Nalon.

We also had the return flight booked, but the trip was carefully (over)planned, so it wasn’t a problem.

 

[Curly Cath]

If you are not bothered about the Compostela, maybe don't skip bits and aim for Lugo (primitivo) or whatever is 100km out from Santiago on the norte

You might feel more relaxed about how much you need to walk and worry less. Obvs you can always continue to Santiago! But that last week is much busier and more hectic and feels different to the rest of the pilgrimage so rather than focusing on Santiago, enjoy the journey and see where you get to x

 

[RibbonRomanceAuthor]

Last year I began my Camino in SJPDP fully intending to complete the CF. At around day four, the temps were predicted to be 44 C+ and I knew this old girl would not do well in those temps even sitting still. I took a bus from Pamplona to Bilbao, bused forward through an industrial area, and began to walk the CN. I had done zero research on the CN as my plan was to complete the CF. Plans to return were thwarted by continued high temps and fires. About two weeks later, I took trains to Ferrol where I completed the CI. I did this because the terrain and ups/downs of the CN took me so much longer that my planned time in Ireland would have been shortened too much.
All that to say, you'll be able to gauge how you are doing and move forward easily enough.
On a day when I took the train to Ferrol, I had not had the chance to get coffee before boarding. But three women boarded and sat next to me. About an hour into the trip, they produced thermoses coffee con leche, cookies and napkins and they shared it all with me! I was later able to help them heard their several rolling suitcases onto the next train. The Camino provides even when not actually on the trail.

 

[lt56ny]

There are others who have mentioned how long it took them to walk and some mention their ages. You always get this when people ask a similar question like yours. This advice I know is meant to be helpful and maybe be a guide for you. My reaction to this is it is nice to read and share what others have done but it has no real relevance to your walk. You have no idea of what may or may not happen starting with your first step. You may find that you are walking and are able to complete your camino without any major issue. But for all of us there is always the possibility of injury or illness or of course a deadly case of blisters.

don't want to ruin the experience of the Purgatorio and the descent into San Sebastien.

As trecile said if it is an overcast day it kind of defeats the purpose of taking this path. I didn't take it as it was my first day and it is not the easiest walk in the world and I was going to walk to San Sebastian. The sign warns it is a more difficult albeit shorter route. It changes the equation staying in Pasajes. If you are staying at the donativo get there early if you can as they do not take reservations. But I digress.
My advice is to listen to your body. Start slower and work your way into even better shape. I do not know your age but you are a big man and with your backpack you will carry alot of weight on your joints and feet. Walk when your body tells you to walk and stop when it tells you to. Eat when you need to. If you are walking and you feel pretty good at 18 or 20k (especially early on) and there is a place to stay, stay there. The next albergue may be 4 or 5 k down the road. But believe me those last 5k can turn into torture. There is being well trained before you go and then there is being camino trained. There is a difference. Less is more. Do not worry about going to Finisterre or Muxia. Yes it is a beautiful walk but I am sure you want to get to Santiago. Do not rush things. All you have is the step you are taking. Believe me for most pilgrims, especially some of the camino fanatics like myself on this forum, you will be back. Remember listen to your body and walk your camino. Don't listen to anyone else.

 

[Yoyo]

My preference is to walk every step of the way, wherever that may take me in my time frame.
Like @C clearly I like the continuity of my walk.
On my first camino I had planned to walk from Saint-Jean to Finisterre, but bad blisters slowed me down considerably. I did make it to Santiago de Compostela though and was very happy with that accomplishment.
If I were in your shoes, boots or sandals, I would maybe set my goal at Santiago. If you have the extra time, then walk on from there to Finisterre, if it's just one extra day, then take a bus. It's a nice day-trip.
Have a wonderful camino!

 

[ScotsWanderer]

I will be walking my first camino starting in mid-September, and while my wife and daughter have graciously agreed to mind our business while I am gone, I only(!) have 39-40 days to complete my journey, including any rest days, and my intention is to walk from Irun to Finisterre... As I began planning this trip, I was of the opinion that paramount was walking the entire route, which would entail some mighty long days for a novice, and my local training hikes have already shown me there are limits to what my feet can endure from my 265 lb (semi-athletic) frame! I have already decided that I will spend my first night in Passajes de San Juan, as I'm certain I will be dealing with jet lag, and don't want to ruin the experience of the Purgatorio and the descent into San Sebastien. Having said this, I am starting to realize that 1) I have broken one of the cardinal rules of having booked a return flight, leaving no time flexibility, and 2) if I am going to fly across the ocean to 'go for a walk', why would I force myself to walk ugly sections that are certain to be harder on my feet, when I could bypass them and allow myself to then use the time gained to spend more time in beautiful settings and/or include the walk from Santiago to Finisterre?
A long-winded opening to get to my two questions!- Given my time frame, will I ultimately, likely be able to complete the entire route, as my feet and legs adapt to the travel, while still having time to enjoy some of the quaint villages along the Camino? If not, and push comes to shove, which parts of the Norte would you skip, based on unpleasant industrial urban walking?

I am doing the same route for the first time from Sep 4th... I will be interested to hear any comments.. good luck

 

[wynrich]

It's definitely possible to knock off smaller bits and pieces along the way. For example, you might skip ahead from Gernika to Bilbao, and even from Bilbao to Portugalete (or even Pobeña). Those are very easy transport connections to make, especially between Lezama and Portugalete because of the metro. Jumping from Ribadesella to Gijón or Avilés might also be an option. Of course, the issues with this approach are that a) you don't actually know how much you need to trim at the earlier points, and b) the more small chunks you try to shave off, the more complicated it becomes, and the more time you'll potentially burn on fitting the transportation into your walking schedule.

Instead of taking public transport all the way from Bilbao to Portugalete, you might consider taking the metro half way or so and then walking into Portugalete so you don't miss coming to the hanging bridge. That was a highlight for me.

 

[TheLaw14]

Thanks to everybody who has replied to this post!... you have given me food for thought... As I re-read my original post, I wonder if I gave an impression that I was at all anxious about completing my camino... I have no doubt that I can complete Irun to Santiago barring any serious injury (I am heavy, but not inactive, playing in a competitive table tennis league three times a week- although, if I'm being honest, the post was likely generated by the fact that this past weekend I did back to back 20 km hikes and my feet did not respond well even though the rest of me felt great, but I am hoping that orthotic shoes on order help alleviate the situation)... Rather, I was in greedy mode, and wanted to have confirmation that I could make it all the way to Finisterre, even if it meant 'cheating' a bit... The responses to my post have settled my mind... I tend to be a purist in most things, so I will walk until my plane ticket calls me back home!...

 

[RickyBGood]

I am doing the same route for the first time from Sep 4th... I will be interested to hear any comments.. good luck

I’m starting Aug 27 from San Sebastián. This will be my first camino. I’ll share on this forum as I get started.

 

[RickyBGood]

Thanks to everybody who has replied to this post!... you have given me food for thought... As I re-read my original post, I wonder if I gave an impression that I was at all anxious about completing my camino... I have no doubt that I can complete Irun to Santiago barring any serious injury (I am heavy, but not inactive, playing in a competitive table tennis league three times a week- although, if I'm being honest, the post was likely generated by the fact that this past weekend I did back to back 20 km hikes and my feet did not respond well even though the rest of me felt great, but I am hoping that orthotic shoes on order help alleviate the situation)... Rather, I was in greedy mode, and wanted to have confirmation that I could make it all the way to Finisterre, even if it meant 'cheating' a bit... The responses to my post have settled my mind... I tend to be a purist in most things, so I will walk until my plane ticket calls me back home!...

Sounds like you have a great plan. I’m starting from San Sebastián on Aug 27. I may post from time to time.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Sounds like you have a great plan. I’m starting from San Sebastián on Aug 27. I may post from time to time.

We started from San Sebastian instead of Irun after reading on the forum by a few people it is a much prettier city, in addition to the train we took from Madrid stopped there, so it seemed the better option. We spent an extra day in that lovely city before beginning our walk.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Thanks to everybody who has replied to this post!... you have given me food for thought... As I re-read my original post, I wonder if I gave an impression that I was at all anxious about completing my camino... I have no doubt that I can complete Irun to Santiago barring any serious injury (I am heavy, but not inactive, playing in a competitive table tennis league three times a week- although, if I'm being honest, the post was likely generated by the fact that this past weekend I did back to back 20 km hikes and my feet did not respond well even though the rest of me felt great, but I am hoping that orthotic shoes on order help alleviate the situation)... Rather, I was in greedy mode, and wanted to have confirmation that I could make it all the way to Finisterre, even if it meant 'cheating' a bit... The responses to my post have settled my mind... I tend to be a purist in most things, so I will walk until my plane ticket calls me back home!...

If everything goes perfectly, you'll make it. So many things can change when you're walking a Camino, especially foot problems. Just start and see what happens, and forgive yourself if it doesn't work out exactly the way you planned. Buen Camino.

 

[RickyBGood]

We started from San Sebastian instead of Irun after reading on the forum by a few people it is a much prettier city, in addition to the train we took from Madrid stopped there, so it seemed the better option. We spent an extra day in that lovely city before beginning our walk.

We started from San Sebastian instead of Irun after reading on the forum by a few people it is a much prettier city, in addition to the train we took from Madrid stopped there, so it seemed the better option. We spent an extra day in that lovely city before beginning our walk.

This will be my first camino. I’ve been planning it for about 8 months. Like you, I’m flying from US to Madrid and training the next day to San Sebastián. I’m returning to Madrid Oct 1 for another 30 day stay and my wife will join me. For me I plan to walk an average of 22-24KM per day. I have included rest days after walking 5-6 days. Rest days are good to mentally prepare for another 5-6 days. Anything can happen so I have a plan B and Plan C. Best to you. Rick

 

[Jon53]

Take good care of your feet. I’d stop every couple of hours and take your boots off for 10 minutes to give your feet an airing and have some fresh socks handy too.

 

[CanadianBarb]

Having read most of these replies and having walked the Norte and to Fisterra and Muxia last September/October, I also appreciate the fact that we often delude ourselves that we have complete control of our destinies. My journey turned out to be quite the "not what I had envisioned"
journey complete with a bad fall/black eye and broken glasses, sprained ankle and knee, bed bugs among others. It reminded me of the following. While it is good to have a plan of sorts, I also invite you to consider allowing the Camino to work you, as you may find hidden gems that are generally missed when you plan a complete itinerary. Kind of like life.... Buen Camino

 

[RibbonRomanceAuthor]

Having read most of these replies and having walked the Norte and to Fisterra and Muxia last September/October, I also appreciate the fact that we often delude ourselves that we have complete control of our destinies. My journey turned out to be quite the "not what I had envisioned"
journey complete with a bad fall/black eye and broken glasses, sprained ankle and knee, bed bugs among others. It reminded me of the following. While it is good to have a plan of sorts, I also invite you to consider allowing the Camino to work you, as you may find hidden gems that are generally missed when you plan a complete itinerary. Kind of like life.... Buen Camino

Well said. Having read posts in this forum that offered the same advice, when my plans changed in a major way a few times last year, I just kept going and it was very satisfying. One of many delightful surprises discovered on my unplanned CN were the Bufones de Arenillas. Although most dramatic in storms, I was able to walk off the route and get close enough to see a small bit of what happens there.

 

[Maggie Y]

I walked el Norte over several holidays but did walk most if it. Good idea to stay first night at Pasajes de San Jusn. Get there early as it only used to have only 14 beds. I enjoyed the industrial walk out from Bilbao. Just see as much as you possibly can as there are so many beautiful things to see . Buen Camino

 

[lt56ny]

This will be my first camino. I’ve been planning it for about 8 months. Like you, I’m flying from US to Madrid and training the next day to San Sebastián. I’m returning to Madrid Oct 1 for another 30 day stay and my wife will join me. For me I plan to walk an average of 22-24KM per day. I have included rest days after walking 5-6 days. Rest days are good to mentally prepare for another 5-6 days. Anything can happen so I have a plan B and Plan C. Best to you. Rick

Or you can have a plan D. Throw the other plans out and just let things happen. Remember all you can plan is the step you are taking. The last step is in the past and can't be changed the next step, well who knows. Buen Camino

 

[CTLawGal]

I walked the Norte and Primitivo, then Finisterre/Muxia in 41 days this spring, which was enough time, but my only rest day was in Finisterre and I started in San Sebastian. Instead of rest days, in the first two weeks I shortened two stages with transport. As others have noted, it's important to listen to your body - that first week on the Norte was the hardest and my body was telling me I needed to rest. The first time, I was sure I wasn't going to walk at all the next day, then when I woke up I felt I could walk, just not the entire leg, so I walked 5 miles after taking a taxi to a mid-point. The second time was leaving Santander and I took a train and walked the last 7 miles.

I didn't mind the walk out of Bilbao along the river although it was a bit too urban, but as Wynrich noted above, the hanging bridge into Portugalete was definitely a highlight. I also remember it as being mercifully flat at the end of that long, hard first week.

If you find yourself running short of time at the end, you can take a bus to Finisterre, or to Cee then walk from Cee to Finisterre. It was lovely to be back along the coast, and I enjoyed the opportunity to reflect on all that I had done getting to Santiago. None of the friends I made along the Norte and Primitivo walked that last bit, so I was alone and, after the emotional time in Santiago welcomed the opportunity to enjoy the last few days of quiet walking to contemplate.