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Recommendations for flamenco and other music...

Aloha From Kauai

A Lifetime of Journeys
Time of past OR future Camino
April 3rd - June 3rd, 2022
1. I need help from a Spanish citizen or someone who visits/travels often. Somewhere along my Camino Frances way, or in Barcelona or Bilbao before I start, to know where to go to enjoy the best possible Spanish guitar or Flamenco. I would be most grateful for recommendations that avoid tourist-focused areas. Ideally, I would like to be invisible and just enjoy the best possible music and/or dance.

2. I also would like to know if there are any local music scenes that mostly Spanish residents visit. Living in a tourist destination, I fully understand the hype and marketing, and I would like to avoid these areas. Can be somewhere working folks go to unwind, or it could be fancy, I really don't care (though fancy clothes are not likely going to be something I'm going to have in my pack, lol).

Many thanks for the cultural advice.
 
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I love this question.
There are a number of people here who might know.
Living in a tourist destination, I fully understand the hype and marketing, and I would like to avoid these areas
Amen. When you grow up in everybody's idea of paradise, what gets sold as 'culture' in the tourist ghettos is the cause of eyerolls, at the very least. And I assume it is the same everywhere.

I'll be interested to read what people suggest.
I'm not local, in any way, just a frequent visitor. But one thing I love to do cities and towns in Spain is to just sit in a plaza in the evening. Local people are doing that too, all generations. Talking, connecting, eating, taking a stroll...lovely.
 
I love this question.
There are a number of people here who might know.

Amen. When you grow up in everybody's idea of paradise, what gets sold as 'culture' in the tourist ghettos is the cause of eyerolls, at the very least. And I assume it is the same everywhere.

I'll be interested to read what people suggest.
I'm not local, in any way, just a frequent visitor. But one thing I love to do cities and towns in Spain is to just sit in a plaza in the evening. Local people are doing that too, all generations. Talking, connecting, eating, taking a stroll...lovely.
I'm truly excited to hear/see what folks have to say!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
As an Andalusian who lives in Granada, I can suggest you will find the best flamenco in Jerez de la Frontera, in Sevilla too, in Cádiz... you have to come to the South. I believe there may be good places for flamenco in Madrid too, even in Barcelona, but I would not know how to tell the tourist trap from the connoseiur spots in those two big cities, I am afraid.

Undoubtedly, my choice would be

Jerez
Cadiz
Sevilla

in that precise order.

After all, flamenco comes from the South, but maybe somebody knows some good spot in Madrid, I will ask my Jerez friends!
 


I am sure you will find many good places. But as @amancio states, Andalucia is the origin/place to go. I had a fantastic evening show, with wine, in Sevilla.
 
All cities have their secrets don’t they, and usually, only the local residents know what they are, where they are and when. The secrets are hidden from us fly-in-and-fly-outs, unless you’re lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time. I’ve had such luck only a couple of times in all my years of travel. So, if you have success in finding that shortcut to a city’s heart, let me know and I’ll be there too.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
As an Andalusian who lives in Granada, I can suggest you will find the best flamenco in Jerez de la Frontera, in Sevilla too, in Cádiz... you have to come to the South. I believe there may be good places for flamenco in Madrid too, even in Barcelona, but I would not know how to tell the tourist trap from the connoseiur spots in those two big cities, I am afraid.

Undoubtedly, my choice would be

Jerez
Cadiz
Sevilla

in that precise order.

After all, flamenco comes from the South, but maybe somebody knows some good spot in Madrid, I will ask my Jerez friends!
Muchas gracias por este información. I
Am doing the Camino Mozarabe next Fall from Almeria and I Am allowing extra time in Cities to experience the music and dance. You have helped me narrow my search.
 
And a more general question to add.
I have avoided Barcelona like the plague, given that it seems to be one of the more touristified cities in Spain - and because it is so heavily impacted my mass tourism that locals could do with fewer of us. It just seems like the Venice of Spain. Is that impression accurate or overblown?
 
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And a more general question to add.
I have avoided Barcelona like the plague, given that it seems to be one of the more touristified cities in Spain - and because it is so heavily impacted my mass tourism that locals could do with fewer of us. It just seems like the Venice of Spain. Is that impression accurate or overblown?
unfortunately, you are probably right, indeed, that is the impression I got the last time I went there in 2017, cruises can be a plague in the wrong dose!
 
1. I need help from a Spanish citizen or someone who visits/travels often. Somewhere along my Camino Frances way, or in Barcelona or Bilbao before I start, to know where to go to enjoy the best possible Spanish guitar or Flamenco. I would be most grateful for recommendations that avoid tourist-focused areas. Ideally, I would like to be invisible and just enjoy the best possible music and/or dance.

2. I also would like to know if there are any local music scenes that mostly Spanish residents visit. Living in a tourist destination, I fully understand the hype and marketing, and I would like to avoid these areas. Can be somewhere working folks go to unwind, or it could be fancy, I really don't care (though fancy clothes are not likely going to be something I'm going to have in my pack, lol).

Many thanks for the cultural advice.
Hola amiga!
got the info you need, pretty much straight from the horse's mouth, as you say in English.

Failing a trip to Jerez, Cádiz or Seville, a person with good knowledge on flamenco matters tells me the place you are looking for, if you go to Madrid, is



he is a journalist, from Jerez, and knows everything you always wanted to know about flamenco but were afraid to ask, and he vividly recommends that place: "you cannot go wrong with Corral de la Moreria, there are newer places, but I do not know them so well".

Buen camino y Aloha!
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
In regard to your question or statement about Barcelona being too touristy - I am an American who lived in Barcelona for a few years. Indeed there are very touristy areas that are actually very nice and would be recommended (while some would not be worth a visit). That said, just like most attractive cities, there are sooooo many neighborhoods that one would not consider to be overly visited by tourists. Just needs a little patience and effort to seek them out. It is unquestionably, a beautiful city!!
 
And a more general question to add.
I have avoided Barcelona like the plague, given that it seems to be one of the more touristified cities in Spain - and because it is so heavily impacted my mass tourism that locals could do with fewer of us. It just seems like the Venice of Spain. Is that impression accurate or overblown?


Yes it can be touristy and busy. But except for some bottlenecks and tourist traps there are still many quiet areas and sites to explore.
Gaudi in the early morning before the buses arrive.
Montjuic and the Fundacio Miro a couple of hours before closingtime.

And this gorgeous museum ...Every time I visited it was relatively quiet, especially the Romanesque wing.


Stay away from Ramblas and the barrio Gotic! Less touristy barrios are Gracia or Poble Sec.
 
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As an Andalusian who lives in Granada, I can suggest you will find the best flamenco in Jerez de la Frontera, in Sevilla too, in Cádiz... you have to come to the South. I believe there may be good places for flamenco in Madrid too, even in Barcelona, but I would not know how to tell the tourist trap from the connoseiur spots in those two big cities, I am afraid.

Undoubtedly, my choice would be

Jerez
Cadiz
Sevilla

in that precise order.

After all, flamenco comes from the South, but maybe somebody knows some good spot in Madrid, I will ask my Jerez friends!
Thank you, thank you, and also for the lesson in origin. That's the kind of stuff I crave...learning and experiencing!!!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Barcelona was the first Spanish city that I visited, and I loved it. If you are going to have gorgeous Gaudí buildings like La Sagrada Familia, Casa Mila and Casa Battlo in a city by the sea with a wonderful climate you really can't avoid tourists!
I too LOVE so many things about Barcelona, and the interior of La Sagrada Familia never fails to make my heart sing. It's true that it is a very busy city these days attracting so many visitors - and for good reason.

An alternative to staying in Barcelona is the delightful town of Girona. Last time I was flying out of Barcelona in late 2019, I stayed in Girona instead and just took a train then bus to the airport on the day of departure. From Girona, it's easy to take day trips or overnight to Barcelona. You will also discover Camino shells in Girona, as it's on the Camino Catalan. Girona is one of my favourite Spanish towns - but that's a long list.

Though, back to the OP's question, I don't have insight into the flamenco scene in Barcelona, Girona or Bilbao - but we saw a wonderful Flamenco show in Seville at La Casa del Flamenco. One of my sisters is quite knowledgeable about flamenco in Andalusia and she steered us in the direction of this club. A very small space in a 15th century building in the Barrio de Santa Cruz. It was a wonderful show - just one hour, but we felt that we were seeing 'the real thing'.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Barcelona was the first Spanish city that I visited, and I loved it. If you are going to have gorgeous Gaudí buildings like La Sagrada Familia, Casa Mila and Casa Battlo in a city by the sea with a wonderful climate you really can't avoid tourists!
I have been to both Barcelona and Venice, and loved them both. I personally have found merit and have wonderful memories in all types of travel.
I spent a few wonderful days in Tossa del Mar, a beautiful village about an hour+ along the coast to the east of Barcelona while in the area; very relaxing and few tourists.
 
And a more general question to add.
I have avoided Barcelona like the plague, given that it seems to be one of the more touristified cities in Spain - and because it is so heavily impacted my mass tourism that locals could do with fewer of us. It just seems like the Venice of Spain. Is that impression accurate or overblown?
Honestly, I'm torn about going to Barcelona at all largely because I do not have the time to wade through all of the options and avoid the tourist traps. Sagrada Familia would probably be my one draw that organically draws tourists, but then I want to be off the beaten path and I simply won't have the time to navigate my way to more unique spaces. Two areas that are hard yeses are the Salvador Dali House and also the second museum, and my three-night stay at Santa Maria de Montserrat.

I could forget Barcelona altogether other than if it is a required gateway to the other places I am going. I'll be coming from Bilbao, so still trying to figure out all of the transfers. I'd love to drive, but with ZERO language skills, I can see getting stuck in a toll booth and people honking and yelling at me, lol. I've also considered going first the other way to Valencia if the oranges are in bloom, and Formentera to see the pink sands (yes, I know that is kind of random, and maybe boring, but hey...). Actually, I'm open to suggestions of very, very special things to do or see, and would even be down to do some volunteer work somewhere...if my lack of Spanish still made that an option.
 
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Hola amiga!
got the info you need, pretty much straight from the horse's mouth, as you say in English.

Failing a trip to Jerez, Cádiz or Seville, a person with good knowledge on flamenco matters tells me the place you are looking for, if you go to Madrid, is



he is a journalist, from Jerez, and knows everything you always wanted to know about flamenco but were afraid to ask, and he vividly recommends that place: "you cannot go wrong with Corral de la Moreria, there are newer places, but I do not know them so well".

Buen camino y Aloha!
Mahalo Nui Loa for the link; I'm now in research and pivot mode potentially!
 
And a more general question to add.
I have avoided Barcelona like the plague, given that it seems to be one of the more touristified cities in Spain - and because it is so heavily impacted my mass tourism that locals could do with fewer of us. It just seems like the Venice of Spain. Is that impression accurate or overblown?
I have to agree. I don’t like Barcelona , apologies if there are people from Barcelona here 🙁
I went back recently because my husband wanted to visit it… and I was prepared to have a fresh view on it. No, I still didn’t like it 🙁 Everywhere we walked, people were hasling us ‘come here for Flamenco and paella’. 😳 Flamenco comes from the South of Spain! Paella is a dish from the Valencia region! Neither have anything to do with Barcelona!!!
Funnily enough, English people rave about it but…. I can’t see it.
I have stayed there many, many times as in my student days (many moons ago!) you had to stop there as they changed the ‘wheels’ on the trains to get to France 😁
This said, I hope I haven’t offended anybody. And we can always agree to differ😉
Pic is Barcelona rooftops from P. picasso I have on my wall. Reflected my mood 😉
 

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Two of my favourite eateries in Barcelona.

One is on the El Born area ( close to Parc de la Ciutadella and not far away from the gorgeous Basilica Santa Maria del Pi )


Cafe El Born : especially for breakfast and the carrotcake.



The other one is La Flauta.


La flauta refers to the small baguette that is served there.


Close to Casa Battlo in the Eixample barrio.
 
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1. I need help from a Spanish citizen or someone who visits/travels often. Somewhere along my Camino Frances way, or in Barcelona or Bilbao before I start, to know where to go to enjoy the best possible Spanish guitar or Flamenco. I would be most grateful for recommendations that avoid tourist-focused areas. Ideally, I would like to be invisible and just enjoy the best possible music and/or dance.

2. I also would like to know if there are any local music scenes that mostly Spanish residents visit. Living in a tourist destination, I fully understand the hype and marketing, and I would like to avoid these areas. Can be somewhere working folks go to unwind, or it could be fancy, I really don't care (though fancy clothes are not likely going to be something I'm going to have in my pack, lol).

Many thanks for the cultural advice.
No advice. A suggestion. When you get there, or in advance, ask the tourist office, or the cultural departments. Should not be too hard to find via an internet search. In Barcelona about 30 years ago, one day I was lost for hours in a museum or art gallery - right now I do not remember which. Maybe it was the museum of modern art. It has all sunk down deep, but I still recall the sense of enjoyment, moving from here to there, soaking up the exhibits, unaware of time or other people.
 
1. I need help from a Spanish citizen or someone who visits/travels often. Somewhere along my Camino Frances way, or in Barcelona or Bilbao before I start, to know where to go to enjoy the best possible Spanish guitar or Flamenco. I would be most grateful for recommendations that avoid tourist-focused areas. Ideally, I would like to be invisible and just enjoy the best possible music and/or dance.

2. I also would like to know if there are any local music scenes that mostly Spanish residents visit. Living in a tourist destination, I fully understand the hype and marketing, and I would like to avoid these areas. Can be somewhere working folks go to unwind, or it could be fancy, I really don't care (though fancy clothes are not likely going to be something I'm going to have in my pack, lol).

Many thanks for the cultural advice.
Flamenco is very much the music of Andalucía, the south so you won't see or hear much in the north, in fact locals may be quite offended if you ask about it. Galicians are especially proud of their very different heritage and culture: the Celtic connection is very obvious. In the Basque region/country, this is what you are more likely to see (flamenco it ain't).View attachment P1000078.MP4
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Flamenco is very much the music of Andalucía, the south so you won't see or hear much in the north, in fact locals may be quite offended if you ask about it. Galicians are especially proud of their very different heritage and culture: the Celtic connection is very obvious. In the Basque region/country, this is what you are more likely to see (flamenco it ain't).View attachment 119130
Thank you for teaching me.

The ignorant casual assumptions of someone who does not get out much, but, who owns her ignorance and is eager to learn.
 
No advice. A suggestion. When you get there, or in advance, ask the tourist office, or the cultural departments. Should not be too hard to find via an internet search. In Barcelona about 30 years ago, one day I was lost for hours in a museum or art gallery - right now I do not remember which. Maybe it was the museum of modern art. It has all sunk down deep, but I still recall the sense of enjoyment, moving from here to there, soaking up the exhibits, unaware of time or other people.
Wonderful suggestion!
 
I was tempted at first to say you wouldn’t find good Flamenco music in Barcelona, but then caught myself. I was would avoid any place in Barcelona that offers regular Flamenco shows because they are tourist traps and not a great experience. I would however make a couple of suggestions.

First up would be to check the schedule at the Palau de la Musica
i have been to a concert with Flamenco music there, and while it was not the typical setting for Flamenco that I enjoy, the music was excellent and the setting is one of the most beautiful concert halls in the world. Since you are open to other types of music, they may have something to interest you.

Barcelona is known for it’s jazz music scene. Outside of the annual jazz festival it tends to be mostly locals and hard core jazz fans. My favorite club for jazz is just off las Ramblas in the Plaça Reial in the worst of the tourist areas, but inside the club it was all locals.

Another place to look for music are churches. In Barcelona I attended a concert at Sta. Maria del Pi that had a German men’s a cappella choir singing African American Spirituals in English. Strange, but lovely. I also found church concerts in towns along the Camino including one at the cathedral in Santiago. Keep your eyes open for flyers posted at the churches you pass.

if you are into Opera, the Liceu opera house in Barcelona is beautiful and in the cheap seats (I paid 8€ for an upper balcony) they won’t be bothered by your pilgrim attire.

I see you are planning to spend some time at Montserrat so you will get to experience the boy’s choir there. The evening services with the choir after the tourists have gone home are wonderful and so very different than the madhouse noon service With all the tourists jostling for a seat.
 
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A few further suggestions regarding your time in Barcelona.

The largest tourist office is located in Plaça Catalunya across from the department store El Cortes Ingles.

Sagrada Familia is an incredible bit of architecture and definitely worth a visit. If your schedule allows you to be in Barcelona on a Sunday morning, I highly recommend attending the international mass to experience the basilica as it was meant to be. You do have to wait in line, go through a security screening and you can’t take photos, but it is a wonderful experience. If you can’t be there on Sunday morning, they also have daily mass in the crypt where Gaudi is buried.

The barri gothic is usually filled with tourists, but early mornings before 8:30 you are usually rewarded with mostly empty streets. The cathedral offers a 9am mass before the building opens for tourist visits. Reward yourself with churros at Xurreria Laietana, a hole in the wall shop with locals at Via Laietana, 46, 08003 Barcelona.

I haven’t been to Salvador Dali’s house yet, but from Barcelona you could do a day trip by train to the museum he created in Figueres with a stop in Girona along the way.

If you book your room in Montserrat directly with the abbey, they include tickets for the rack railway and cable car. I preferred the apartments at Cel-Les Abat Marcet over the hotel as it was a bit cheaper and had more space and a small kitchen. Food options at to monastery are limited but Monistrol de Monserrat has several restaurants. I highly recommend Restaurante Bo2 in the village. you could take the cable car down in the morning, enjoy a walk along the River, enjoy lunch in the village and then hike back up to the monastery.

The museum at the monastery is interesting and Santa Cecilia, a Romanesque chapel converted to the Sean Scully art space is interesting and a short walk away.

Feel free to DM me if you have other questions.
 
HI @Aloha From Kauai

When you mention Dali's house - you are writing about the house in Portlligat, just out of Cadaques?

If so, be sure to book your time to be inside the house. They take only a certain number of people at a time as the house is a series of smallish rooms and corridors and staircases - quirky, as you'd imagine.


We know of a few people who have missed out because they either tried to book just a day or two before - or they turned up without a booking and there were no spots left. It was not over-run with people when we visited - just that only a very small number enter at 10 minute intervals, which is a good thing or it would get very congested inside. You can spend as much time as you like in the grounds.

We thought the Dali house was wonderful. And Cadaques a delightul town.
 
1. I need help from a Spanish citizen or someone who visits/travels often. Somewhere along my Camino Frances way, or in Barcelona or Bilbao before I start, to know where to go to enjoy the best possible Spanish guitar or Flamenco. I would be most grateful for recommendations that avoid tourist-focused areas. Ideally, I would like to be invisible and just enjoy the best possible music and/or dance.

2. I also would like to know if there are any local music scenes that mostly Spanish residents visit. Living in a tourist destination, I fully understand the hype and marketing, and I would like to avoid these areas. Can be somewhere working folks go to unwind, or it could be fancy, I really don't care (though fancy clothes are not likely going to be something I'm going to have in my pack, lol).

Many thanks for the cultural advice.
I have been to Spain many times and seen flamenco in Madrid (was ok), Barcelona (not good), Malaga (fair) and Sevilla excellent. Flamenco is from Andalucia, the southern part of Spain, and particularly Sevilla,
and that is the best place to see it. I have no idea if there is any good Flamenco on the Frances.
 
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I have been to Spain many times and seen flamenco in Madrid (was ok), Barcelona (not good), Malaga (fair) and Sevilla excellent. Flamenco is from Andalucia, the southern part of Spain, and particularly Sevilla,
and that is the best place to see it. I have no idea if there is any good Flamenco on the Frances.
Many Thanks
 
Good flamenco is very, very hard to come across -- in this respect, I was spoilt as a very small child in Minorca.

Anyway, it's spontaneous by nature -- so that if you're told to go here or there for it, most likely it'll be at least somewhat less than the pure.

Flamenco is a complex and multiform combination of guitar, dance, song, participation, audience, feast, wine, pride, culture, love, honour, respect, and form. The spontaneity of it is such that only the greatest flamenco artists can produce it on demand.
 
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Good flamenco is very, very hard to come across -- in this respect, I was spoilt as a very small child in Minorca.

Anyway, it's spontaneous by nature -- so that if you're told to go here or there for it, most likely it'll be at least somewhat less than the pure.

Flamenco is a complex and multiform combination of guitar, dance, song, participation, audience, feast, wine, pride, culture, love, honour, respect, and form. The spontaneity of it is such that only the greatest flamenco artists can produce it on demand.
So true
 

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