To start in SJPP or Roncesvalles, that is the question.

[fortview]

I am starting the Camino on Sept 5th. I am debating whether to start in SJPP or Roncesvalles. I hear that the climb from SJPP is very tough. How tough is it? What are the pros & cons? I can't start first thing in the morning as I will be travelling from Bayonne to SJPP first thing and then registering so I would intend to stop overnight in Orisson. I would be grateful for any advice. Thanks. John.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola - It is steep hill but is perfectly doable. Take your time. Stay in Orisson and start out next morning refreshed. You'll be proud of yourself.

Buen Camino

John

 

[sillydoll]

There is a lot of hoohaa about the Route Napoleon.
It is not a technically difficult, tough, mountain trail. It is a steady, steep climb for 16km, no downs and very few flat sections, until the end, but neither the first 14km on a tarred road or the last 10 on a path are 'terrible'.
I suppose if you are completely unfit it can be a 'terribly steep stage' but I have taken not-so-fit people on that route and they have all made it and lived to tell their tales! There is a steep down at the end - you have to choose between 6km (road route) or 3km (beech woods).

If you do it in two days it will be a piece of cake. The first 14km or so is on a narrow, tarred road -consistently steep up from St Jean. After 5km you reach Huntto. Stop for a rest and a coffee or coke. At about the 6.4km mark there is a fountain and a table. Stop for a look at the view - if it is a nice day, take photographs!

Another 2+ km and you reach Orisson. Stay for the night. I think it is €32 for a bed and dinner/breakfast. If you don't get in, stay another night in St Jean. Get a taxi to fetch you from Orisson and take you back to St Jean (± €8) and bring you back the next day.

3km beyond Orisson you see the statue of the Virgin of Biakorri on the left. (11km) Stop a while to catch your breath and take photos.
Another 2km further a road joins yours from the right. (This is the road to Arneguy which is on the Val Carlos route. The tarred road ends about 2km further (at the 15km mark) just after the sign that reads Roncesvaux/Orreaga.
From there you are on a lovely, grass path - still going up but not at all scary. It is not a rocky mountain track and there is no difficulty in walking it - its just steep. 1.5km later you come to a wooden sign that directs you to the Col Leopoeder and Roncesvalles.
At the 20.5km sign you have two choices; take the path into the beech woods - VERY steeply downhill for 3.5km through the woods which can be trecherous in wet weather. You might have to go down like a side-winder if it is wet. Or you can opt for the slightly longer road route to the Ibañeta pass where the Val Carlos route joins and down to Roncesvalles.

I've walked both routes - Val Carlos and Napoleon. On the Val Carlos route we stayed in a Casa at Val Carlos and then went over the Ibaneta Pass the next day. The scenery is stunning on both routes. There is a lot of off-road walking on the road route and the last few kms to the pass on the road route are even steeper than the Route Napoleon!
Send your pack ahead to Roncesvalles if you want to and just carry essentials in a daypack - many pilgrims do. They are taken to La Posada and you can collect them there.

Check the weather forecast and base your decision on that. Mind you - even the weather forecast isn't always right!!

 

[mspath]

John,

The SJPdP to Orisson and Roncevalles route is doable IF you are fit and have trained before setting out. However, the alternative SJPdP to Valcarlos and Roncevalles route is recommended for those who are less trained, or older or walking in inclement weather. Since I am old and generally walk in autumn or winter I ALWAYS walk that route from SJPdP and stop at the new municipal albergue in Valcarlos ((8k.) before walking on up to Roncevalles (16k.) the next day.

As Sil states this Valcarlos alternate, too, has wonderful views and in NO way is it a walk in the park. It is a ROUGH five hour slog up to the 1060 meter Ibaneta pass. At last from the top exhausted but elated you can float happily down into Roncevalles.

Whichever way you choose I wish you Buen Camino!

Margaret

 

[sillydoll]

And, when you get there, stop on the terrace of the Casa Sabina and have a nice long, cold drink whilst watching sheep and cows grazing peacefully in the fields around you! You'll feel as though you have arrived in Little Switzerland!

 

[LTfit]

You will find many postings about the pros and cons and unfortunately many are scared off. Just do it! You will be rewarded, that is for sure!

Is it steep? Yes. Tough? Looks tougher on paper than it actually is, especially as most of it is on tarmack (I kept to the grassy/dirt path beside the road).

I have only one word of warning and that is about the downhill as Sil mentioned. I was advised to take the road route to the Ibañeta pass when I received my credential in SJPdP as it had been raining hard on the day of my arrival. The following day was misty and visibility poor but once I arrived at Col Leopoeder the sky had opened and the downhill path through the woods was dry and so I took it. Otherwise DO NOT! It is a VERY STEEP trip down with lots of tree trunks jutting out of the ground - doable but very tricky if not unsafe in rainy weather. I in fact was the only one on the route that afternoon.

Buen Camino

 

[MCVet]

I did the Route de Napoleon in one day and it wasn't too terrible. About halfway through the day you reach a point where a bunch of poles with numbers appear. Around that point, it started raining, hailing, thundering, and lightening. Much too late to turn around to Orrison (they wouldn't have had a spot anyways) but still quite a way to go to Roncesvalles. The downhill portion was nothing but mud and water and I nearly busted my ass several times. Two other pilgrims were with me and they *did* bust it once or twice. Also there was rumors of a guy who slipped and got a concussion doing that part in the slick.

It was cold, but very doable, just completely miserable. So be sure to check the weather forecast and get started early (around 6 or so. I had to wait to ship stuff off at the post office so couldn't get started until 10 AM that morning).

 

[Pieces]

I was worried about this too and had booked in orrison due to fear it might provoke an old injury. I was totally unfit and untrained as was a lot of others (not that thats recommended) but I made it and so did the others. I skipped orrison and continued

Yeah it is steep but unless you are very old or have special worries you will be fine, take it slow, stop in orrison you will be glad you did.

actually some of us found the next day harder being sore from the first stopping in orrison will make this less of a problem

 

[scruffy1]

That first day out can be a killer! You should be very excited! You will be overwhelmed by the view!! There will be others to talk with as you go!!! Many stops and starts for photographs!!!! Taken together you will probably find it very very difficult to hit your usual pace to find your best step and to keep at it. However, once you have done the Route Napoleon, there is nothing to worry about until Santiago,ups and downs yes but you have done the most difficult.Later on you will hear fearful stories of the climb to O'Cebreiro-after that walk out of SJPP you will find it childsplay.

 

[marbuck]

We want to go to SJPP to have a look at the mountains but because of bad knees we want to start our walk from Roncesvalles. Our problem is, how do we get from SJPP to Roncesvalles?

 

[mspath]

We want to go to SJPP to have a look at the mountains but because of bad knees we want to start our walk from Roncesvalles. Our problem is, how do we get from SJPP to Roncesvalles?

Marbuck,

There is no bus from SJPdP to Roncevalles, but you could take a taxi. The distance on the road is roughly 24 km. See this tourist office site for a list of taxis. >>http://www.saintjeanpieddeport-paysbasque-tourisme.com/en/se-deplacer.html.

Buen camino,

Margaret

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Until September 30

Saint Jean De Pied De Port - Roncesvalles 19:30 20:15 0h 45min 5.0€ LMXJVSD

 

[ncali12]

I would definitely start at SJPP! It's a charming little mountain village. When you arrive their from Bayonne, you can enjoy the little village, do a little last minute shopping and gently transition into the Camino. If you aren't sure about yourself and even if you are, I recommend staying over at Orisson. It's such a lovely little auberge. It's only a couple of hours up the mountain and a slow start will give you time to settle and enjoy the Camino. My approach is to alot as much time as possible for walking the Camino. In that way, you can avail yourself the time to respond to things that may come up on the way. The Spirt may prompt you to linger here or there. It's nice to have the flexibility for response. Deadlines can cause rush and injury.

 

[ncali12]

PS. If you are concerned about your knees, going up to Orisson gives you a nice-test run and turn around chance if that bit seems too taxing--i.e. you can descend and take a taxi over to Roncesvalles. If you have bad knees, you might want to be doing preparatory exercises to strengthen your thigh muscles before going and DEFINITELY take poles. I have bad knees and a bad neck. For some mysterious reason, nothing bothered me during the entire Camino--wonder of wonders. Someone said it might have been energy coming up from the Camino. Who knows. The Camino is the Camino. Buen Camino

 

[mralisn]

I fully agree with the others suggesting to start in SJPdP. I could list all kinds of reasons, but they are all covered here. What a great walk and an incredible way to start YOUR Camino!

 

[mralisn]

Oh yeah....always good to bring some chocolate with you! ; )