Where in Camino Frances (800km) Route Do I need to Spend more Time exploring the Cities/Towns?

[santhi]

Hi everyone. I know that Camino Frances is mostly done in 33 days but I have 45 days to complete the walk next summer. I would really appreciate it if pilgrims who have completed the full walk can suggest cities or towns along the route where I can spend more time exploring. I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

 

[Tincatinker]

Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Atapuerca, Mansilla de las Mulas, Leon, Villafranca de Bierzo, Ponferrada, Samos…. That should keep you busy for a bit

 

[ChadEstes]

I certainly don't regret spending the extra time and rest days in SJPP, Pamplona, Burgos and Leon. There was so much to see and experience (as well as eat) in those places!

 

[donalomahony]

Pamplona, Burgos and Astorga...

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Of course spend some time in the major cities but Spain is the smaller towns and villages too. The towns can be the sweet spot. Due to illness and then injury we spent several days in both Sahagún and Astorga. These have enough to keep you busy with sightseeing but are great spots to hang out soaking in the atmosphere. Loved the saint's day festivities in Sahagun around June 12. Other spots I didn't spend an extra day but wouldn't mind if I had was Agés, Villafranca de Bierzo and, off the Francés, Muxia.

 

[nycwalking]

Hello,

Ponferrada. While in Ponferrada take day trips to The Valley of Silence, and La Medulas. Also, tour the Knights Templar castle.

Pamplona. There’s the world famous bull ring amongst so much else.

Astorga. Gaudi Palace and Chocolate museum. The latter is so-so, but it’s nice to have seen it.

In Rabanal del Camino you can spend a few days of reflection with the Benedictine brothers. www.monteirago.org.

Cathedrals in both Burgos and Leon are must sees.

Also, consider walking from Santiago to Fisterra to Muxia.

Buen camino

 

[Bert45]

León is a must. A cathedral and a building by Gaudí. Every major town has something worth seeing. It is unfortunate that most churches in smaller towns are closed. Vilar das Donas is a small diversion. If it's not open you may be able to find the key-holder. Ponferrada, with its Templar castle. Written while nycwalking was posting! Great minds ...

 

[VNwalking]

Other's recommendations are theirs, and we don't know your taste or interests.

The joy of an unplanned camino with some days of cushion is that you can just decide in the moment to stay a bit longer in a town or city that's interesting. So where to pause?Wherever and wherever you come to a place that calls to you.

And if you have particular interests this site has a search function that allows you to zero in on threads about that.

 

[Ken & Liz]

We take 59 days and days of once a week or there about and still don't get to see every thing. Just see some now and see more next Camino like we will do this time

 

[good_old_shoes]

You can stay a bit longer and explore whenever you want to.

It's not only the bigger cities that have a lot to offer!

Sometimes even the small villages have a lot to see, if you take the time to even notice (many just walk by!).

On my last walk, I remember there was a sign towards a little chapel, next to the Camino, maybe ten meters off the path max., that said it was open and you could have a look and get a stamp. I had never noticed it before. That year I was slow due to an injury. So I did go to see it and rest a bit. There was a very friendly gentleman who guarded the place. He had a lot to say about it if you wanted to listen. Lots of history to it. He said, most pilgrims just rush by, even though it really is only a few meters off the path. It was a bit sad to see him greet them when they walked by, and inviting them to come and have a look, and how few actually did...

So, there are many hidden gems. Take the time to find them. Castles or the ruins of them, on the hills next to the villages (Belorado, Castrojeriz...). Many little churches and chapels (the one in Tosantos for example is very special).

Also, every part of the way you walk through has its own architecture and "style". Even in the smaller villages.

It is great that you have so much time.

So I'd advise to just stop and explore when you enjoy a place, or when you think there might be something interesting to see.

Talk to the locals and to the hospitaleros. They'll also know what's interesting to see nearby.

A good guide book can also help.

Buen Camino!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Pamplona: Cathedral museum, Museu de Navarra, Bull ring
Burgos: Cathedral (I once spent 8 hours in that place!), Museum of Evolution, Burgos Museum
Leon: Cathedral - the windows are incredible!
Astorga - Bishop's Palace (Guudi), archaeological museum, several "digs" around town
Santiago: Museu Pobo Gallego - a wonderful folk museum, Cathedral museum (rooftop tour is awesome), shopping

 

[AnneO]

I spent 4 nights in Astorga due to an injury and really enjoyed it. I am a huge Gaudi fan and the episcopal palace is among my favorites of his. There was more to see there than I was expecting.

I studied in León for a semester when I was in college so I really enjoyed my extra time there. The cathedral there is one of my favorites.

But some small towns are great too. I took a rest day in Najera and the monastery there is beautiful. There are so many places that are deserving of extra time.

 

[Robo]

Hi everyone. I know that Camino Frances is mostly done in 33 days but I have 45 days to complete the walk next summer. I would really appreciate it if pilgrims who have completed the full walk can suggest cities or towns along the route where I can spend more time exploring. I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

33 days just happens to be the number of stages in a popular guidebook.
Many take longer. A few, less time.

I take 40 days usually.

If you like architecture, churches, medieval towns, you will love many of the towns and cities along the way.

Of course there are the major ones that have a lot to see.
Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Ponferrada.
Depending on how you feel at the time you might take a rest day at these or at least a half day.

THere are smaller ones that have a lot to see, like Santo Domingo, Castrojeriz, Astorga, and others.

And even smaller ones where you might just want to hang out a bit longer like Carrion, O Cebreiro, Portomarin.......

I guess what I'm saying is, and what I tend to do myself, is allow a rest day / sight seeing day at a major town where there is a lot to see.

But don't forget some of the smaller places where you might want to linger.
A good reason to sprinkle your Camino with a few 'short' days to allow some late starts or early finishes, to explore places along the way.

A key point also, is not to book accomodation too far ahead (if at all) so as to allow for that kind of flexibility. There will places you just want to spend more time or want to divert via. (like Eunate)

Afterthought. The 'trap' many of us fall into, is meeting new friends along the way, and getting pulled along with them and stopping where they stop, not really following our own 'planned' pace. That's a tough one.........

 

[Bob Howard]

I did 33 days the first two Caminos (Frances), 42 days the third and fourth, and likely the same this summer. I have come around to the idea that 12 miles/20km per walking day is ideal for me--not in the physiological sense but in the cultural sense--meaning with relative short days I get to spend more time in each place. Keep in mind that at this pace, you will be at your destination village/town/city by noon or 1:00 with another 8+ hours of daylight (summer) left. I am an architecture enthusiast as well. As a practical matter, I view the walking as simply the means by which I get to enjoy a different burg and the history/architecture/culture therein each day. I fully realize that likely the vast majority of the veteran pilgrims here view the actual walking as primary. In 2022, I got to know several first-timers that were so focused on the walking and meeting a daily mileage goal that they walked right through Pamplona, Longrono, Burgos and Leon without veering from the path--passing but not even stepping inside the Burgos cathedral for God's Sake. I think sometimes when we have philosophical disagreements here on the Forum, it's often a matter of talking past each other inasmuch there is such a variety of views, personal predilections, and widely divergent prior experiences about almost any topic, it can be difficult sometimes to understand/even accept someone else's opinion. So, while I enjoy the walking, I really enjoy the staying.

 

[Roland49]

Hello fellow Pilgrim,

as mentioned in thread: Pamplona, Logroño, Atapuerca/Burgos, Leon, Astorga may be an option for sightseeing and/or rest days. If you like, you can walk on to Finisterre. I bussed there last year and it is impressing somehow.

When I walk the CF again, I will stay for 2 days definitely in Pamplona, Burgos, Leon and Astorga. Much to see, do and taste (!!!) in those towns. Maybe a stop or two in the Rioja and Bierzo region to do a cellar-tour and wine-tasting besides the young wine at Irache.
At the time I was happy that I did made it in 27 days and had 2 more days to travel to Porto and back home (30 days time off in total).

HTH and Buen Camino!
Roland

 

[Bert45]

On my last walk, I remember there was a sign towards a little chapel, next to the Camino, maybe ten meters off the path max., that said it was open and you could have a look and get a stamp. I had never noticed it before. That year I was slow due to an injury. So I did go to see it and rest a bit. There was a very friendly gentleman who guarded the place. He had a lot to say about it if you wanted to listen. Lots of history to it. He said, most pilgrims just rush by, even though it really is only a few meters off the path. It was a bit sad to see him greet them when they walked by, and inviting them to come and have a look, and how few actually did...

Where was this, please? I may have seen it, but, if not, I don;t want to miss it.

 

[davejsy]

What everyone else has said. You are spoilt for choice on the CF when it comes to history, architecture and ancient towns and villages. Definitely take the detour to Eunate as that is a special place and the architecture of the church has prompted many debates.

Also maybe consider carrying on to Finisterre which is an extra few days, although this won't necessarily tick your specified boxes.

 

[davejsy]

On my last walk, I remember there was a sign towards a little chapel, next to the Camino, maybe ten meters off the path max., that said it was open and you could have a look and get a stamp. I had never noticed it before. That year I was slow due to an injury. So I did go to see it and rest a bit. There was a very friendly gentleman who guarded the place. He had a lot to say about it if you wanted to listen. Lots of history to it. He said, most pilgrims just rush by, even though it really is only a few meters off the path. It was a bit sad to see him greet them when they walked by, and inviting them to come and have a look, and how few actually did...

Another +1 for knowing where this place was?

 

[Roland49]

Another +1 for knowing where this place was?

Maybe the Ermita del Ecco Homo behind Astorga?
It was closed as I walked by.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I have mentioned before my three regrets when I've walked the Frances twice, but here they are again...not bothering to walk the short side trip to see Eunate; not walking the side route that goes up to Pradela from Villafranca; and not walking the side route later on that goes to Samos.

 

[lt56ny]

Whatever town strikes your fancy when you arrive.

 

[good_old_shoes]

Another +1 for knowing where this place was?

@Bert45

That one was between Zubiri and Larassoana. It was someone from UK I think who had bought the place and tried to keep it from falling apart. I think it was part of an old Abbey (?).

But I remember several places where locals had opened a church for the pilgrims to visit and offering a stamp sometimes. One after Sarria. Another one in Galicia, forgot where (the priest opened it). The famous one in Tosantos of course. The hospitaleros led there, an older lady opened the chapel for the pilgrims and explained a bit about it. And a few more.

A truly hilarious one was after Burgos, in Rabé. There was a priest at the chapel (where they hand out the tiny medallions) who asked the pilgrims to come inside for a moment. He just threw some holy water towards those who didn't stop, and blessed them whether they wanted to or not .

 

[JoeBoston]

This thread is loaded with good information! I thank you contributors for the suggestions!

 

[JerryStroebele]

You may have time in the afternoons or evenings to increase your awareness of the areas you walk through by reading "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago" by David Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson. I "carry" a copy in the Kindle of my iPhone. Buen Camino

 

[David Fletcher]

have completed the full walk can suggest cities or towns along the route where I can spend more time exploring. I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

I walked in the fall of 2015; I gave myself "sabbath days" in Burgos, Leon and Ponferrada. Burgos is a magnificent medieval town; Leon is the cultural capital of Northern Spain; Ponferrada is where the Templar castle and chapel (and a magnificent downtown park) are found. I also sprang for a hotel room on my sabbath days. I would have spent a day in Pamplona, but I'd only been walking four days and didn't want to break my rhythm. Buen camino.

 

[Cindy4d]

Hi everyone. I know that Camino Frances is mostly done in 33 days but I have 45 days to complete the walk next summer. I would really appreciate it if pilgrims who have completed the full walk can suggest cities or towns along the route where I can spend more time exploring. I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

Burgos!!

 

[Jodean]

33 days! That sounds awful and not very much fun.
I spent 47 days last spring and but wish I had even longer. I prefer walking shorter days and I have already seen the popular towns where one takes a rest day.
My recommendations - Burgos, Astorga, Castrojeriz, Navarete, Leon, Samos, Pamplona

 

[Bradypus]

33 days! That sounds awful and not very much fun

Some of us enjoy walking longer days. I walked my first Camino Frances in 24 days and my most recent one last year in 28 days. I would be bored rigid and straining at the leash if I stretched out the Camino Frances to 47 days!

 

[StDenis]

I highly recommend reading Beebe Bahrami's Camino de Santiago. It's full of the history and sites along the way (along with recommendations for lodging, food and events). Not just the larger towns but the small ones. I carried a copy with me and saw others who also had the book and were reading it in the afternoon (while sipping a cold beer) to scout out the current town or what was coming up the along the next day's route or destination.

 

[J Willhaus]

I like a good guide book and I also like to read about the route and what there may be along the way to see or do. I love the "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago" by David Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson and like @JerryStroebele , I have a copy on Kindle. I also usually use my Brierly guide as well as two different apps (Wisepilgrim and Buen Camino). We almost never take a rest day, but just walk a shorter day if there is something I want to see or do along the way.

 

[Jodean]

Well, I am really, really slow due to some breathing problems. Everyone passes me all day long, while I stop and catch my breath. I also like to stop and take photos. A lot of photos. It is my hobby.
That is the good part about the Camino, it works for everyone no matter how slow or fast they want to walk, as there are no rules.

 

[RRat]

Hi everyone. I know that Camino Frances is mostly done in 33 days but I have 45 days to complete the walk next summer. I would really appreciate it if pilgrims who have completed the full walk can suggest cities or towns along the route where I can spend more time exploring. I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

I would plan on arriving to major cities early. Possibly using them for a rest day. But focus on arriving in Santiago with days left over. Then bus tour to Finisterre. I had extra days. Bus to Salamanca. Next to Toledo. Next to Segovia. Finally days in Madrid.

 

[simoncooper99]

Burgos - in addition to the cathedral I visited the excellent museum of human evolution which is based around the Neanderthal discoveries found at Atapurca which is also on the camino (before burgos) and the excavations can be visited. In walking distance from the centre of burgos is Covento de las huelgas. All make an extended stay in burgos well worthwhile.

 

[CWBuff]

Oh LORD! What a loaded question. Every one of the answers given above is correct!
IMHO, it is almost impossible to put a finger on something like this. A small deviation, sometimes perhaps by 100-200 meters off to the side from the "Camino route" may result in some totally awesome discovery!
A Roman Fountain, Centuries-old statue, a small museum, archeological dig, Castle @ Castrojeritz, Saracen Castle, Castro Castromayor, ... list can go on and on.... You can spend 'an extra day' in every town\village\city you pass - no kidding! Even from the get-go a day or 2 in SJPdP, and an extra day in Roncesvalles..... you'll find stuff to do....

Good luck and Buen Camino!

 

[Katykay]

Hi everyone. I know that Camino Frances is mostly done in 33 days but I have 45 days to complete the walk next summer. I would really appreciate it if pilgrims who have completed the full walk can suggest cities or towns along the route where I can spend more time exploring. I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

We spent more time over 48 days in 2022. Viana is a place I wish we spent more time. Other than that we tended to use the large cities like Leon, Burgos, Pamplona, Legrono for rest and recuperation (a few days). I had a fall and we spent two lovely nights in Acebo a very old Camino town. Then we spent 5 days in Santiago. Buen Camino!

 

[Nelle]

In addition to the towns listed by others, I'd suggest taking really short days walking to the ruins of San Anton and the Ermita de San Nicolas (if you are walking May/June through mid-October) and then just hang out for the rest of day and soak in the atmosphere. But there are lots of great things to see everywhere... you can't go wrong. Good luck and Buen Camino.

 

[tjdouglas63]

Hi everyone. I know that Camino Frances is mostly done in 33 days but I have 45 days to complete the walk next summer. I would really appreciate it if pilgrims who have completed the full walk can suggest cities or towns along the route where I can spend more time exploring. I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

Burgos and Leon are must stops for a day of sightseeing. Pamplona, Estella, Astorga, maybe Ponferrada if you had plenty of time and/or needed to rest in my opinion.

 

[kamleman]

All good suggestions. My 2 cents: Leave some time for Santiago itself. A few relaxed days, pilgrims mass, the park, wandering through the streets (maybe a walking tour?). Burgos and Leon for sure. If you like architecture, the Gaudí house in Leon, not just the edifice but the detail. Estella, smaller but so chill. Pampalona cathedral and Hemingway Hotel Iruna and Bar Txoko (if you haven’t already, read The Sun also Rises - very cool seeing the places he mentions in the book along the way, not just in Pampalona). Buen Camino, you are going to love it.

 

[OTH86]

Belorado - about 20 km after Santo Domingo -- and stay at Casa Waslala, with Paul and Belmalyn!! Belorado is a lovely place with wonderful murals, good places to find meals (Paul will probably make a reservation for you for dinner at Cuatro Cantones), and a few interesting ruins that have been renovated... My last time there was two years ago -- I hope Paul and Belmalyn are still there...

 

[Juliawalking]

Oh my gracious, we do love our Camino, wonderful to see all the suggestions. I love detours, a wonderful oneis from Najera where I hopped a bus to San Millan de la Cogolla with the upper and lower - Suso and Yuso monastries.

 

[annakappa]

Las Médulas, a bus ride from Ponferrada, is probably the most incredible site we have ever visited on any of our Caminos. In my opinion, it would be worthwhile to actually stay overnight there.

 

[David Tallan]

León is a must. A cathedral and a building by Gaudí. Every major town has something worth seeing. It is unfortunate that most churches in smaller towns are closed. Vilar das Donas is a small diversion. If it's not open you may be able to find the key-holder. Ponferrada, with its Templar castle. Written while nycwalking was posting! Great minds ...

Also in Leon, the Royal Pantheon at San Isidoro, considered to be "the Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art".

 

[Vancouver Rose]

33 days just happens to be the number of stages in a popular guidebook.
Many take longer. A few, less time.

I sure wish people would stop refering to 33 stages as if they’re the “gospel” or the “rule”. It’s one guidebook’s recommendation/idea. For many of us, trying to do that entire route in 33 days would ensure we don’t get the time to explore all the lovely places so many have mentioned in this thread, and others, whether in big cities or small towns.

 

[J Willhaus]

It took us 55 days with no rest days...

 

[Kasee]

Take the alternative routes…Eunate, Ventosa, Villavente, Castrillo de Los Polvazares, Samos…

 

[Clycobb]

My highlights: An 11th century iglesia in Fromista which is open for viewing with historical notes. In Leon, Iglesia de San Isidoro and its attached museum right up the street from the Cathedral. Also in Leon, the Monastery of San Marcos and its museum. Such riches of history along the way! I used "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: The Complete Cultural Handbook". You can get it on your phone.

 

[PProffitt]

Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Atapuerca, Mansilla de las Mulas, Leon, Villafranca de Bierzo, Ponferrada, Samos…. That should keep you busy for a bit

Excellent

 

[JerryStroebele]

The Bell Tower and bell and clock museum in Santo Domingo de la Calzada and the "Welcome Center" between Ages and Atapuerca. Buen Camino

 

[AlwynWellington]

A key point also, is not to book accommodation too far ahead (if at all) so as to allow for that kind of flexibility

@santhi, most important to have time to "smell the roses" when you find them

 

[AlwynWellington]

I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

Some items I noticed on my camino October 2017

Roncesvalles - church restored in late 1930s

Zabaldika - small church with a magnificent reredos
Pamplona -

Cizur Menor - Iglesia Sanjuanista (76 photos on Google maps)

Eunate - Church of Saint Mary of Eunate

Obanos - Iglesia de San Juan Bautista - square tower with "battlements" almost English in appearance (289 photos)

Puenta La Reina/Gares - Iglesia del Crucifijo - main entrance archway with some story telling

Cirauqui approach - what is left of a Roman bridge

Cirauqui - layout of a medieval town

Esella/Lizarra - churches in abundance

Los Arcos - Igelsia de Santa Maria - well decorated entrance archway

Torres del Rio - church with different architectural features

Viana - Igelsia de Santa Maria - "heavy" features ? Rococo/Baroque

Logrono - Parish Church of Santiago el Real (?albergue next door) gold reredos (C Barriocepo)

Logrono - modern day cathedrals - Estación de Tren e Autobuses - Av de Colon

Navarette - Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asunción - baroque - gold reredos

Najera - Parroquia de la Santa Cruz - similar external style to Torres de Rio

Azofra - church entrance with memorial to the fallen

Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Cathedral and rooster and reredos - stone with arches and bosses

Tosantos - (to north on leaving the town) Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña

Villafranca Montes de Oca plus 4 km - memorial to the fallen

Burgos - in order from Castañares to Tardajos

• Rīo Arlanzōn - path on left bank
• Parroquia San Jose obrero (parish of S Joseph, worker) - includes pilgrim hostel and large modern church (C San Pedro de Cardena)
• Museo de la Evoluciōn Humana
• Plaza Major
• Plaza de los Castaños
• Plaza de C de Lain Calvo
• Claustro de la Cathedral de Burgos - two levels (!"manuscript factory"!)
• Rīo Arlanzōn - Parque de La Isla
• Tardajos - newsish albergue
• other contributors have mentioned monastery chapel

Hontanas - newish albergue on entrance

Ruinas del Monasterio de San Antón

Castrojeriz - Collegiate Church of Santa María del Manzano and museum

Mirador del Alto de Mostelares - and 100 metre ascent in 1 km

Puente Fitero and rīo Pisuerga

Carrion de los Condes - and sloping bridge on leaving

Bercianos de Real Camino - recent church with fire station like bell tower

El Burgo Ranero - water tower - wayside cross

You might see trains to the left of you and trains to the right of you

Mansilla de las Mulas - about 1 day's walk to Monastery of San Miguel de Escalada - 14C Mazarabic monastery chapel

@santhi, that's enough from me for the moment. Most have been observed from the outside as, like the octagonal chapel at Eunate, many do not accessible most days. And the last item above is still on my bucket list - it might need a car to get there at the right time.

Good luck with your wanderings,

Kia kaha, kia māia, kia man'wa'nui (take care, be strong, patient and confident)

 

[SarahTheKiwi]

Hi everyone. I know that Camino Frances is mostly done in 33 days but I have 45 days to complete the walk next summer. I would really appreciate it if pilgrims who have completed the full walk can suggest cities or towns along the route where I can spend more time exploring. I am into architecture, churches, medieval towns.

Thank you! Good question I need to pay attention to as well.

 

[Kristen Alvarez]

Great question! Everyone has such wonderful suggestions!
SJPdP: I took a rest day to get over jet lag and explored this beautiful city. Well worth it.
Pamplona was wonderful and I’m glad I took a rest day to explore.
Astorga: The Cathedral and the Gaudi Palace there make for a nice visit. Also the chocolate! Oh my gosh, the chocolate! I didn’t get a chance to tour the chocolate museum, but that’s on my agenda for my camino this year.
Leon: So much to see and soak in - it was AMAZING.
Burgos: That cathedral was breathtaking from all views and the most beautiful I have ever seen. (Sweet shop right across the plaza, also amazing!)