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On this date in October...

trecile

Camino Addict
Camino(s) past & future
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
Here's the thread to post pictures, musings, etc. for any dates in October from any year, and for any Camino route.
When you respond, please mention the date, route you were on and where you walked (or rested) that day. Thanks!
 

Stivandrer

Perambulating & Curious. Rep stravaiging offender
Camino(s) past & future
I´ve got Camino plans until 2042,
- or till I fall flat on my face, whichever comes first !!
In
Ourense, in the meditative quarter where shells of old houses, waiting for funds to be restored are interspaced by small brilliant corners of peace and quiet ..

October 1st 2019, Via Sanabres.

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tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 1st 2013 and 2016. Today, Mees and I are almost finished as we walk from Arzua to Pedrouzo. Dont know about others but when I get to the last page of map panels in Brierley's guide, I start feeling a bit sad and want to walk slower to make it last. However, I walk so slow, if I went any slower, I would be walking backwards. Stopped for food at Taberna Salceda with all the shirts hanging from the ceiling. Dont know if its true but have been told it is now closed. Very sad if true. Stayed in the first albergue we came to in Pedrouzo, O Burgo
2016. I made a mistake yesterday when I posted my September 30 details and posted my October 1st ones instead so I am back to Ventas de naron from Mercadoiro. I wont bore you a second time with posting it all again lol
 

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Thebee6

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (Sept-Oct 2018)
On October 1, 2018, I walked out of Logrono on the Camino Frances, and headed into La Rioja countryside. A cool and cloudy day, with occasional beams of sunlight, and magnificent views across the landscape. Wonderful companion peregrino companions, and every step felt like an adventure.
 

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Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Camino(s) past & future
A total of eight in the past 6 years!
I was in Salamanca, getting ready to start the second half of the VdlP, with friends, in 2019. It was our first day, prior to starting our pilgrimage. This large Camino shell is by the "Shell House", the Casa de las Conchas, near the Salamanca Cathedral. A special time, full of anticipation!

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tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 2nd, 2013 and 2016.
2013, Pedrouzo to Monte do Gozo. Stopped at Lavacolla for cafe con leche and got a smiley face to go with it. Some of the other pilgrims reckoned the lady must have fancied me cause she didnt make a happy face in their coffee. Oh, the jealousy. Up by the camp site just before Monte do Gozo there is a vineyard. Of all the vineyards I came across, this was the only one with chicken wire fence to keep people out. I never bothered with the grapes along the way but ones that are sealed off, now that is a different prospect to a rebellious Irishman. I managed to squeeze a couple through that wire. I did not know about the Polish albergue so we ended up in a fancy establishment out by the main road for dinner. Missed the Peregrino monument too. Tomorrow will be a day of very mixed emotions. BTW, until I looked at these photos just before posting, I had never noticed the shell at the top of the Monte do Gozo monument

2016. Ventas de Naron to San Xulian. Very dark when I started. My friends were still in bed so off I went on my own. Met a couple of pilgrims coming out of the municipal in Ligonde but for once, I was storming on ahead. Stopped at La Cabaña for breakfast. I was gasping for a coffee cause absolutely nothing was opened between Ventas and here early in the morning. Then on through Palas de Rei to San Xulián. Stopped at albergue O Abrigaadoira. Has to be the prettiest albergue on the camino. Had dinner with my friend Marie, her friend Albert and a policeman from Rio de Janeiro. Also joining us was Lynda from last night. She was a first nation lady from Canada. A marvellous lady whom I kept in touch with until I lost contact last year when she moved home
 

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jl

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances('05, '07), Aragonese ('05), del Norte / Primitivo ('09), Via Tolosana (Toulouse '05), Via Podiensis (Le Puy '07), Via Lemovicensis (Troyes '09), VF ('12), Winter Camino ('13/'14) Cammino d'Assisi ('14) Jakobseweg (Leipzig - Paris '15) San Salvador/Norte ('15) Ignaciano ('16) Invierno ('16)
I have been on more pilgrimage journeys than those below, but these are the places I have been on October 2nd / 3rd.


On my first Camino in 2005 I was walking in Galicia when I noticed the very strange shadows being cast - not double crisp and clear but a sort of double shadow. It transpired there was a solar eclipse occurring.



Eclipse shadows, Galicia, 2005.jpgIn 2007 on my Camino from le-Puy-en-Velay I had gone off the track to look at a castle (recommended in Brierley). I passed two women doing the washing in the lavoir spoke to them and followed their directions up and around the corner, only to be met by a number of dogs. One stood with feet apart and a look in his eye that said "take another step and I'll have a piece of you". I decided I didn't really need to see the castle and retreated, walking slowly backwards with poles ready to defend myself if needed. Back down the track and passing the lavoir the woman had gone, leaving the washing on the grass to dry.

Washing Day, 2007.JPG

In 2009 I walked from Troyes to Santiago on the del Norte. I had the privilege of walking with my son for the first week before he headed off to Germany to ride his pushbike home to Australia. I continued on to Santiago and returned home via London. It was here that I had the pleasure of spending a few hours with Johnniewalker.
Johnniewalker & Janet.JPG
in 2014 while walking the End to End in the UK, as part of a year long journey I passed through Tain, the start of St Duthac's Way. This route had not been established then, though it is now (refer to the British Pilgrimage Trust website for more info). I had to take this photo though because of what is written on the gate.
Tain. 2014.jpg
In 2016 friends and I walked the the Camino Ignaciano and at this time had stopped in the wonderful town of Zaragoza
 

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tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 3rd, 2013 and 2016.
2013,I finished my first Camino with a fellow pilgrim who would become a dear friend. Mees van der Sluijs from the Netherlands had been my companion come best friend since we met at Virgen del Camino. He passed away in February much too young. Rest in Peace buddy, I will miss you. We arose early in the barracks in Monte do Gozo. As we left, the rain came back so we walked in wearing ponchos. Down the steps to the sound of bagpipes. Have I taken a wrong turn and ended up in Glasgow. There is a large group of tourists from a cruise ship in Vigo and they do not make space for two weary pilgrims to pass through. Unlike Mees, I am a bit more bullish so pushed my way through. There it is, the cathedral we have been dreaming about, now the tears. Why tears. Is it joy at finishing, is it sorrow at having no where to go tomorrow, is it something special touching the soul but whatever, the tears flowed. No scaffolding to ruin the sight, that would come some months later. Le Petit Tren, I did not expect that. That belongs in tourist centres. Round to the old pilgrim office and up the stairs for our compostelas. Tears tripping me again. Round to Correos for the parcel of useless extra gear I had posted ahead. Then the rain again but not just rain, a deluge and a massive wind. Now I know the meaning of the word squal. Back to a now empty Obradoiro. The tourists are gone but their broken umbrellas are blowing in the wind. Packs of in Fogar de Teodomiro. Not the greatest albergue but back then, albergues in the old city were few and far between. Back to the Cathedral for the Pilgrim Mass at 12. It has been my luck over the years to always see the botafumeiro swing at every Mass I attended there. And thats it. All over and I declare, never again. Somewhat spoken in haste.

2016. San Xulian to Boente. It was a good day for walking, not too hot and no rain. Through Leboreiro, over the Ponte Velha at Furelos and on to Melide. Arrived in Melide on my own and stopped for a tentacle style lunch. What is that extra item on the bill. To my surprise, they charge extra for the bread. Never seen that before. On through with Boente as my destination. Would not have been my choice but Albert seems to have taken over. He speaks fluent Spanish and like many Americans, fears not getting a bed so phones every night to make a booking so unless I want to break with Marie, I stop in the same town. Never bothered making bookings myself, always plenty of beds. Not long out of Melide, I met an Australian friend who had been popping up every now and then. Terri Boydle and I walked on together to the ford where the the guy with the wax stamps hangs out. He was not there that day and at that point, Terri and I parted for the last time. Keep in touch with her still. Stopped at OS albergue. Hospitalero dresses like a cowboy and has an amazing collection of old vintage cameras. Santiago is almost on the horizon.
 

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Nancyheathcote

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Northern route - 2019
French route 2021
Having completed my first Camino - Northern, including Primitivo and Hospitalis as diversions, I had arrived in Santiago and after a few days there had travelled to Lisbon to fly home to Melbourne/Australia on this day. This was the best journey of my life! In the photo below, I'm on the far left with some of my fellow travelers, my Camino Family!
 

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David Tallan

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (1989 and 2016), Portugues - from Porto (2018)
October 4, 2018, in between Barcelos (where I started the day) and Casa da Fernanda (where I finished it). We passed by a vineyard where they were harvesting the grapes and I shouted a hearty "boa dia". Soon we were invited in and taken deep in among the vines where we were loaded down with as many grapes as we could carry, which we shared with our fellow pilgrims at Casa da Fernanda. I considered it a nice birthday present from the local Portuguese.IMG_20181004_190350_889 (1).jpg
 

tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 4th 2013 and 2016
Strange not having to walk today. Set out in search of breakfast which in irself was strange with nothing on my back. Back then I did not know about Hospedaria San Martín Penario so we found a cafe called Botafumeiro to have breakfast. Breakfast in the hospedaria is really good and very cheap for non residents. In years to come, I would enjoy breakfast lunch and dinner there. Met our German friend Ahmet. Wish I had asked her how to spell her name. A lovely lady who looks half her age. Today was just for sight seeing and souvenir shopping. Took a picture of Matamoras but not sure how I feel about it. Firstly, the battle of Clavico is a myth never happened, and surely James would remember Jesus telling the apostle to put up his sword as he who lives by it shall die from it. I dont like it. Have you ever noticed that old ornate botafumeiro hanging there. Read recently that it is a counter weight for the one we are all familiar with. Seems like an anti climax knowing this is our last day

2016. We walked from Boente to Salceda and stopped in the albergue Boni. I say we walked but I stopped for breakfast and Marie and Albert were gone when I got back to albergue looking for them.. I walked on my own in the dark for most of the morning. After 8 before it got bright. Met up with Marie in Arzua. I had already stopped to eat on the way in to town so after a few words, I moved on. Met them on and off as the day wore on and eventually we all teamed up at a cafe just before Salceda and walked in together. The hospitalero was a pilgrim himself so he told us to get settled, have a shower and then worry about checking in. Albert does seem to be a moody character. He was a master sergeant in the US army and is now a school teacher. Marie is a retired emergency room doctor and I have already told you about Lynda from Canada. It is nearly over. I am not going to make the Thursday flight to Dublin so it will be the Tusday flight. Might as well book it now. So much dearer than it was a couple of weeks ago but thats how airlines operate. Compared to what my friends are paying for their flights, mine is cheap cause its just a short hop to Dublin
 

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tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 5th, 2013 and 2016
2013. Mees and I were up early. We had intended to get a bus to the bus station but once we had our backpacks on, we decided on one last walk so no bus for us. At the station we met Ahmet again. She was going to Finisterre. It was strangely silent as we found it hard to speak. Mees was taking a bus back to Amsterdam. I never asked if he was afraid of flying so I was never sure of his reason. At last, the bus for the airport arrived and we said our goodbyes. I could feel the tears welling up. I had grown to love this guy like a brother. Back in Dublin, my son was waiting to drive me home to Belfast. If it had not been for him, I would have never heard of the camino. He had walked it the previous year and had wanted me to come with him. To my regret, I declined but now I had experienced for myself. Outside of getting married and becoming a father, I believe these last few weeks have been the greatest of my life and one of the best things I had ever done. Did not know it at the time but I would return. At last my Camino ended when I touched the tile on my own front door. It was a gift from my son that he had bought in Santiago on his camino.

2016. Salceda to Lavacolla.
Once again I set off early on my own. For some reason my friends are not into 7:30 wandering in the dark. Boy did they miss a great sunrise. A bit hairy crossing the main road in the dark. Stopped around Cruce O Empalme for breakfast. At least I think it was there. So dark, I was not sure where I was. Around Santa Irene I saw a bus shelter that looked kind of like a horreo. Not sure if it was deliberate or just a bus shelter. Next village was A Rua and still no sign of my friends catching up. Through Pedrouzo and heading for Amenal before they caught up. Somehow they had failed to notice Pedrouzo and though thet were arriving there instead of Amenal. After the usual stop for food we headed on. Lost them on the steep trail up to the airport perimeter. I found it really tough going. Seems there is now an albergue in Lavacolla so that is tonights stop. At the marker for Santiago just outside Lavacolla. I stopped. Thought my friends may have waited but there was no-one there. My third time here and there is not a sinner here. On my two previous times there were loads of pilgrims taking pictures. Caught up with my companions sitting outside a cafe having tea. Once again they walked on before I finished but I caught up and we walked through Lavacolla to our albergue together. It is nearly over again. Will I be back? Who knows
 

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linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
October 5, 2018 Logroño to Navarette (~13km) it is always a shorter day for me after the tapas crawl the night before.

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asunción en Navarette has an incredible altar piece. Santiago Apóstel is the 2nd on the left from the cross. It took me by surprise when I first visited in 2017. We were at an albergue, and I saw the sign for the pilgrim mass. We finished dinner and headed over to the church. After mass, the women of the congregation led a procession around the town with the virgin. There is also a Michelangelo in a vault on the backside of the altar. 👣 :D :cool:
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David Tallan

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (1989 and 2016), Portugues - from Porto (2018)
October 5, 2018, Ponte de Lima on the Central Route of the Camino Portugues.

I have no idea why the Madonna is holding swords between her fingers as if she were about to throw them in some action movie.

 

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drvnsmiln

Member
Camino(s) past & future
SJPP - SdC '14
SdC - Fin-Muxia. '14
Sarria - SdC '14
VdlP '17
Levante '19
Portugues '19
At the baptism of Jesus, the prophet Simeon, told Mary "Behold, this One has been set for the ruin and the resurrection of many in Israel, and as a sign that will be contradicted. And a sword will pass through your own soul, so that the thoughts of many hearts may be revealed." Thus the swords...
 

tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 6th, 2013 qnd 2016.
2013. I am home. I am up early. Nothing to do, nowhere to go. No café con leche, no tortilla. No sun in the sky. Just dull grey autumn skies. I need a jumper, its cold. But the contractors arrive to install a new bathroom we had planned months ago so the boredom is lifted. But at least, I can scan in my compostela

2016. From Lavacolla to Santiago. Once again, I start before my friends but we agree to meet at Monte do Gozo. I have to wait about 30 minutes but at last we are all together. I thought they may want to see the Papal monument and the pilgrim monument further in. The ladies do but Albert wants to walk on. He is a strange wee man. A bit of a contraire. The kind of guy who will say black if I say white but he is strangely likeable. So off we went, 4 abreast. Marie is a fantastic singer and she gives us a rendition of Ultreia et Susia. She sings the verse, we join in with the chorus. Its a bit like the Wizard of Oz except the road is not yellow and the song is different but we have a spring in our steps and we link arms and walk. Now on the outskirts we stop for a Kodak moment and even stop passing pilgrims to get them to take a group photo.

Albert's contraryness kicks in again and rather than follow my suggestion, he wants to find his lodgings first before experiencing one of the greatest moments a pilgrim can have. However, he gets lost and as we are following him, we are lost too. Time to take over the map reading from him and soon we are back on track for La Salle. With a bit of urging, I get them out and on the way to the cathedral. Lynda by the way parted with us when Albert decided to take to the back streets, she had prebooked into San Martín. I turned into the square to find the others were not following. Albert wanted his compostela and he wanted it now. After we got them, Marie decided to go back to La Salle for a nap. I am not a napper and especially now. I did not walk all this way to go to bed. I headed for the cafe at the top of the steps in Quintana for a drink and a bit of people watching and to monitor the queue for the Holy Door. Just then I felt a tap on my shoulder and a lady asked if I was Terry McHugh, author of Walk With The Sun Till Ur Shadow Disappears. She recognised me from my picture on the back cover. Funny thing was I recognised her as Katharine Elliot from her photo on her book, A Camino Of The Soul. I can highly recommend her book.

The queue for the Holy Door has dropped off so it is time to jump in. What an amazing door this is. Reliefs on one side show the execution of Santiago and on the other, they show him preaching by the Ebro i believe. Behind him is Our Lady standing on a pillar calling him back to Jerusalem. The Pillar which is said to be still in Salamanca or Zaragoza, I cant remember, is reputed to be the one Jesus was tied to when they scourged him. Hence her title Nuestra Señora del Pilar and the use of Pilar as a name for girls. Eventually the others joined us and we met up with Lynda for dinner. She was going home next day so we would not see her again. We walked her back to San Martín and enquired about any vacancies, they had three from next day and available through to Wednesday. That suits us all as Albert goes home Sunday, me on Tuesday and Marie on Wednesday. We will move our bags in the morning.

It has been a full day, got our compostelas, got to evening Mass and botafumeiro and got our booking into San Martín and I got to go through the Holy Door. Time for bed
 

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tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 7th 2016. My first camino ended when I arrived home on the 5th 2013 but I still have a couple of days left on my third in 2016. Moved our bags from La Salle to San Martín before lunch and left them in their storage facility. Eventually got into room. Sparse but practical and the bed is comfortable. Today is for shopping and a visit I am not looking forward too. On the camino, I do not shave and come home with a beard. This time my good wife has instructed, get a shave or dont come home. She does not like my rugged look lol. I have an appointment with a barber for 4:30 but I have never had a cut throat razor shave before, a bit nervous to say the least. Went for a beer in a little gastro pub I know next door to albergue Teodomiro and close to the barbers. They stocked a beer called O'Haras Irish stout. I have never heard of this beer from my native land so it had to be tried. Very nice. Found it again years later on sale in Dublin airport. Found a little restaurant over in the corner of Praza do Quintana last night so going back there for dinner tonight. Lots of discussion in the coffee loungse in San Martín about the US presidential election. All the Americans are convinced their countrymen would not be dumb enough to vote Trump and Clinton would win by a landslide. Funny how things turn out. Lynda has gone home so we are down to three. Marie fancies a bus tour to Muxia and Finisterre. I took the same tour in 2015 and have recommended it so I have made a booking for the three of us. Saturday is all booked up so we are for going on Sunday
 

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RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
October 7th, 2018.
Camino Frances. Stayed in Ventosa at the albergue San Saturino. I recall the pilgrim numbers at that point seemed to thin out. No full albergues and lots of solitary time walking if you wanted to.
 

tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 8th, 2016, still in Santiago
Today is the day we should be going on the bus tour. Got my dates wrong again lol. I am up early and down to breakfast. Marie has been up even earlier, had breakfast and out to Mass and now back for second breakfast. Albert arrives and declares he has changed his mind. He wants to go to the pilgrim house for a debriefing as he calls it. Even though I tell him there is no debriefing sessions today he insists he is going and the bus tour can be forgotten. To say I was a little angry is an understatement. This trip was booked in my name cause he wanted to go and I wanted to make sure he got there.. Well, there was nothing on in the pilgrim house as I told him and now we have missed the bus. His loss but I know Marie would have enjoyed it. Shopping this morning then. Got my wife a lovely Azabache heart shaped pendant. So I have another idea for the three of us. A picnic in Alameda park. It was a good lunch. Stopped in a little grocery shop in Rua Franco and bought everything we needed including a bottle of vino tinto. Since the other two had not yet been through the Door of Mercy, I talked them into queueing up for it. Broke the rules I did. There was no one up at the statue of Santiago to stop you taking photos so I did. A year later I would break the same rule and get away with it again in the Cistine Chapel in Rome. Even though we have been in town for a few days we are still meeting friends from the trail. One pair are hilarious. One from Ireland and one for Australia. Met them back in Castrojeriz and they were passionately arguing about tea. The Irish guy insists the Irish brand, Barry's, is the worlds best. The Australian argues that Lyon's is the best as he is related to the family who own that company. Now here in Santiago, the friendly banter is still ongoing. I have seen these two carry on the discussion on facebook long after the camino.
Today is the last full day together. Tomorrow, Albert will get a taxi to the airport where he will stay overnight for an early morning flight on Monday, I will go Tuesday and Marie will go Wednesday. Once again, my camino is coming to an end. This will be my last. I have told my wife I will not go back and to prove it, I take my walking poles and leave them against a wall outside the cathedral door facing San Martín. I am sitting on the wall outside the hostal waiting for an Irish pilgrim I have been chatting with online for months but never met face to face. When he arrived, I looked down the street towards him and when I looked back, the poles were gone. Hope they were taken to Finisterre.. I bought new poles and went back in 2018 for the last last time or is it.
 

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danielle aird

La vie est belle
Camino(s) past & future
May 2018; September 2018; May 2019; Sept (2019)
Here's the thread to post pictures, musings, etc. for any dates in October from any year, and for any Camino route.
When you respond, please mention the date, route you were on and where you walked (or rested) that day. Thanks!
 

danielle aird

La vie est belle
Camino(s) past & future
May 2018; September 2018; May 2019; Sept (2019)
October 6th, 2013 qnd 2016.
2013. I am home. I am up early. Nothing to do, nowhere to go. No café con leche, no tortilla. No sun in the sky. Just dull grey autumn skies. I need a jumper, its cold. But the contractors arrive to install a new bathroom we had planned months ago so the boredom is lifted. But at least, I can scan in my compostela

2016. From Lavacolla to Santiago. Once again, I start before my friends but we agree to meet at Monte do Gozo. I have to wait about 30 minutes but at last we are all together. I thought they may want to see the Papal monument and the pilgrim monument further in. The ladies do but Albert wants to walk on. He is a strange wee man. A bit of a contraire. The kind of guy who will say black if I say white but he is strangely likeable. So off we went, 4 abreast. Marie is a fantastic singer and she gives us a rendition of Ultreia et Susia. She sings the verse, we join in with the chorus. Its a bit like the Wizard of Oz except the road is not yellow and the song is different but we have a spring in our steps and we link arms and walk. Now on the outskirts we stop for a Kodak moment and even stop passing pilgrims to get them to take a group photo.

Albert's contraryness kicks in again and rather than follow my suggestion, he wants to find his lodgings first before experiencing one of the greatest moments a pilgrim can have. However, he gets lost and as we are following him, we are lost too. Time to take over the map reading from him and soon we are back on track for La Salle. With a bit of urging, I get them out and on the way to the cathedral. Lynda by the way parted with us when Albert decided to take to the back streets, she had prebooked into San Martín. I turned into the square to find the others were not following. Albert wanted his compostela and he wanted it now. After we got them, Marie decided to go back to La Salle for a nap. I am not a napper and especially now. I did not walk all this way to go to bed. I headed for the cafe at the top of the steps in Quintana for a drink and a bit of people watching and to monitor the queue for the Holy Door. Just then I felt a tap on my shoulder and a lady asked if I was Terry McHugh, author of Walk With The Sun Till Ur Shadow Disappears. She recognised me from my picture on the back cover. Funny thing was I recognised her as Katharine Elliot from her photo on her book, A Camino Of The Soul. I can highly recommend her book.

The queue for the Holy Door has dropped off so it is time to jump in. What an amazing door this is. Reliefs on one side show the execution of Santiago and on the other, they show him preaching by the Ebro i believe. Behind him is Our Lady standing on a pillar calling him back to Jerusalem. The Pillar which is said to be still in Salamanca or Zaragoza, I cant remember, is reputed to be the one Jesus was tied to when they scourged him. Hence her title Nuestra Señora del Pilar and the use of Pilar as a name for girls. Eventually the others joined us and we met up with Lynda for dinner. She was going home next day so we would not see her again. We walked her back to San Martín and enquired about any vacancies, they had three from next day and available through to Wednesday. That suits us all as Albert goes home Sunday, me on Tuesday and Marie on Wednesday. We will move our bags in the morning.

It has been a full day, got our compostelas, got to evening Mass and botafumeiro and got our booking into San Martín and I got to go through the Holy Door. Time for bed
Interesting; I met Kate Elliott in Orisson September 13 last year. Interesting woman. Her book is on my must-read list. I just ordered a copy of yours. thanks. Just what I need at the moment.
 

tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
Interesting; I met Kate Elliott in Orisson September 13 last year. Interesting woman. Her book is on my must-read list. I just ordered a copy of yours. thanks. Just what I need at the moment.
Thankyou, Kate has a second book about her walk in Patagonia. You should try that too, both her books are great
 

danielle aird

La vie est belle
Camino(s) past & future
May 2018; September 2018; May 2019; Sept (2019)
Thankyou, Kate has a second book about her walk in Patagonia. You should try that too, both her books are great
Busy woman... I will definitely check it out. I am just putting the finishing touches to a book I spent the winter writing. Wish me luck with it. If I can find a publisher, I will donate proceeds to Camino organizations. They will be needing it. Although I assume it is pennies on the book. At least, we have fun writing...
 

tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
Busy woman... I will definitely check it out. I am just putting the finishing touches to a book I spent the winter writing. Wish me luck with it. If I can find a publisher, I will donate proceeds to Camino organizations. They will be needing it. Although I assume it is pennies on the book. At least, we have fun writing...
Writing is all the fun, marketing is a pain in the you know where. At least for me it is. You can always self publish through Kindle publishing. I used Amazon's now defunct Createspace which has been replaced with the Kindle one. Meand you get both print and ebook in one process. Either way, very good luck and dont keep the title to yourself. I love reading about the camino. When I first went, books, videos and pictures were few and far between. That was in 2013 and all I could find was Hape Kerkeling's book. Another good read. Amazing how the number of pilgrims books etc have snowballed since 'The Way'. 2013, springtime and September, I could have counted the number of pilgrims in the dozens in spring and hundreds in September. Then we all saw the movie and started writing books and the pilgrims are in the thousands. Anyway, look forward to your book
 

danielle aird

La vie est belle
Camino(s) past & future
May 2018; September 2018; May 2019; Sept (2019)
Writing is all the fun, marketing is a pain in the you know where. At least for me it is. You can always self publish through Kindle publishing. I used Amazon's now defunct Createspace which has been replaced with the Kindle one. Meand you get both print and ebook in one process. Either way, very good luck and dont keep the title to yourself. I love reading about the camino. When I first went, books, videos and pictures were few and far between. That was in 2013 and all I could find was Hape Kerkeling's book. Another good read. Amazing how the number of pilgrims books etc have snowballed since 'The Way'. 2013, springtime and September, I could have counted the number of pilgrims in the dozens in spring and hundreds in September. Then we all saw the movie and started writing books and the pilgrims are in the thousands. Anyway, look forward to your book
thanks for the encouragement. I am not keen on self-publishing. I did that before with a book of short storie but I had a venue to sell my book and was fundraising with it so I sold many copies. Title: Pilgrims, Hosts and Ghosts of the Camino. Send me a four-leaf clover please. btw I put in the order for your book through my local bookseller so now, since you published it through Createspace, maybe I will have to order online. I will see what he replies. Cheers.
 

Canada Wanders

Lost, but making great time...
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2015
CP 2018
On this date, 2015, we arrived in Santiago.
The trip my wife had suggested that I originally thought was crazy was over, and I was a convert. A time of reflection, of healing, of red wine and crusty bread...and a chance to walk with the greatest lady I knowthumbnail_Rob%20&%20Kathleen.jpgthumbnail_Rob%20&%20Kathleen.jpg
 
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RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
October 8th, 2018
Relatively short walking day. Stopped and stayed in Azorfa at the municipal albergue.
It's funny. Sometimes I remember albergue stays very vividly and other times I recall nothing about the stay there. This is one of those times I recall nothing about it, lol.
I always tell myself to keep a diary when I walk a Camino, but in the end I never do. Perhaps bring a small, lightweight journal book and take one photograph or two a day of where I stay for the night. Maybe next time....
 

Latecomer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
VDLP (Sept 2015)

CF SJPDP-SdC+
(Sept/Oct 2018)
October 9, 2018 on the Camino Francés...Short day from Place Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadelo (because I wanted to stay at Casa Susi), I walked the scenic alternative up the hill to near Pradela. It was a fairly demanding walk but had great views. Susi and Casa Susi are great – I was first one there and got the ‘penthouse’. Had a lively vegetarian communal dinner with pilgrims from France, Australia, Canada, Singapore, and the UK.
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¡Buen Camino!
 

tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 9th. 2016. Sunday
Up early this morning and took a picture of the skyline from my room.. Want to get breakfast before going to Mass. A fellow pilgrim told us about Mass in the Church of St Francis and said we should go there today. No need to rush after all. It was a childrens Mass we went to but it was worth it. Really child oriented. Young girls took up the collection and there was a kids choir. At the Lord's Prayer, everyone held hands across the aisles. At the sign of peace, the children broke ranks from the front and ran around the church shaking hands with all and sundry. Apart from our little band, there were only two other pilgrims in the church. They had their packs with them so probably going home. If you have not visited St Francis, make it a must do next time you are in Santiago. I took lots of pictures of the various statues but sadly, the one of St Francis himself, is badly blurred. Normally I would delete such a bad photo but this one I keep. After lunch in San Martín, we went our own ways shopping and thats when I found the shop actually in San Martín, how many times did I walk past it and nnever noticed it. Found a Rosary my wife would love. Much nicer than the one I got yesterday so she is getting two lol. Wandered about on my own for quite awhile. Everyone I knew must be gone as I saw no familiar faces. Albert is off now for the airport. Marie sheds a few tears. She had met me a lot earlier but she had walked most of the last 150km with him so they were quite close. After dinner we went out and sat on the steps leading down to Obradoiro. There was a classical singer there. I am notan eficionada of classical music but I think he was a tenor. I actually recognised some of the songs. An absolutely faboulous cobcert. Wish I had bought his CD but I am out of cash. It really is Autumn/Fall. By the time he finished I was feeling quite chilly. Only one full day left before flying home
 

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tpmchugh

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2013)
Camino Frances (2015)
Camino Frances (2016)
Camino Frances (2018}
October 10th 2016. Now it is just the two of us left in Santiago, me and Marie. A bit of shopping and sight seeing and eating. Even did the one thing I never do, had a nap. Funny thing though, I took no more photos of my camino. Fly home tomorrow. I will leave Marie, I will leave Santiago and I am sure you my readers will be glad to hear, I will leave this thread. If there is one eventually for April I will return next year if I am not walking. Hope you all enjoyed or at least tolerated my ramblings this last few weeks. Buen Camino everyone 🥾🥾🥾🥾🥾🥾🥾🥾🥾🥾
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10 October 2012

On the CF...Made my way from Santo Domingo de Calzada to Belorado and settled into the first albergue on the right as one enters town. It had a "horsey" motif but the name escapes me. Chores of laundry and showering done, I was walking around the town when caught up by a group that I had chatted with often in earlier days from St. Jean. They were staying at the parroquiale.

Long story short, they had heard that I played 'chef' some nights before and that the meal was passable. Beset with fatigue of the standard pilgrim menu, they dragooned me into captaining the evening's menu at their place. With some reluctance, I agreed with the proviso that they were all helping with cutting up of veg, preliminary sautee of the soup ingredients, and such.

Over the course of my planning time the group swelled from 6 to 12 souls and accommodation had to be made for newly arrived vegans and gluten intolerant diners. It went splendidly with everybody chipping in amid happy chatter in English, French, Dutch, and German.

The snap is on the way from the albergue to town center as I went in search of some mineral water at the last minute.

10 October 2017

Off Camino for a bit in a Madrid AirBnB just north of the Prado. I was napping (severe head-cold) whilst my Camigo visited the museum. I had to get him on a flight out the next morning to go home early owing to increasing knee and hip problems that no amount of rest or therapy would attenuate.
 

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RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10/11/18 Camino Frances
I do specifically remember this day and stay on the Camino because I had originally intended to walk to Ages or Atapuerca because I like the vibe there, but just as I reached St Juan de Ortega the sky opened up and a heavy rain came down, and I ducked into the covered entrance of the big parochial albergue there to wait it out, but it just kept coming down. I finally gave up and just checked in the albergue and it ended up filling to capacity within a few hours, which was not typical of this Camino for me. Cold beers at the bar next door and did go to mass at the church and had the communal meal at the albergue and met some new pilgrims. It did get cold that night and the albergue a bit drafty and damp in that type weather. I prefer hot and dry weather. Carry less kit, clothes dry fast and can walk about barefooted at the albergues.
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simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
11 October 2012

On the CF... Walked from Belorado to Ages, in constant rain for about half the day. I was very surprised by the changes in scenery in just those few km. Started out in grassy steppes reminiscent of the Palouse region of eastern Washington State, a brief sojourn through deciduous forest and open loamy soils, then at the heights before SJO, I could have imagined that I was traipsing through the Henry's Fork area near Yellowstone Park.

After showering and setting clothes to wash, I went out for a walk after a raging thunderstorm passed on. I had never in my life seen such massive schooners of clouds sailing the sky.

11 October 2017

Trained back to Burgos after getting my Camigo on his flight home then taxied to Tardajos, having determined that the multiple "therapy walks" ate up the distance from Burgos.

I was feeling pretty low but then this "I Ching" napkin smacked me upside the head and I determined to move on with a lighter step.

B
 

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RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-12-2018 Camino Frances
Walked to Burgos. Woke early but took my time leaving. Overall not that many pilgrims on the path so I knew there would be plenty of available beds at the big albergue in Burgos (and there was). Also I wanted to stop in Ages for breakfast (which I did).
Weather was nice. Cloudy and cool. No rain that day. Very relaxed pace, which IMO is the only way to walk the Camino. Decided to just take the airport/industrial path in Burgos. Have walked the river path before, but I was in no rush that day and did not feel like walking a less familiar route. No issues with the walk into town, but yes all that concrete can be hard on the feet. I took several rest breaks. Got to the albergue and did the routine. If I remember right a few of us went to a supermercado (Dia I think) and bought the sort of pre-made dishes/sandwiches, beer and bread and brought them back to the albergue to eat. I believe I got one of the pre-made paella plates.
Ages in the morning:
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simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
10/12/2012

On the CF...Walked from Ages to Burgos. A bit of rain early and foggy until I climbed out of Atapuerca. I lost the track somewhere on the descent and soon was walking with pounds of clingy mud on each foot. The main service of the soul-less walk into Burgos on endless pavement (did not know about the river route then!) was to pound off all the remnants so I entered A Divina Pastora as #1 for the day with reasonably clean boots.

Laundry drying was a bit problematic so I set up this rig on my bunk. Soon, every bunk was so festooned.


10/12/2017

On the CF...Tardajos to Hontanas, grateful for my first steps onto the Meseta which some people avoid but which many of us adore after having experienced its magic.

My family enquired as to a problem with my camera (dirty lens? improper settings?...) from the few pictures of the day. Nope! These conditions persisted just up to Hermanillos before wet moved in. In addition to late grain and timely sugar beet harvests, some of the larger tracts were being "chisel plowed", I assume to break up hard pan layers.

I was rather surprised about the "gentrification" of Hontanas since my prior visit. Initially dismayed, I found my response ungrateful and got onto helping some pilgs with foot problems. Albergue Juan de Yepes was a delight though I had wanted a reprise at St. Brigida.

Excellent, both of them, though I give "JdY" the edge for a first-class group meal. My "patients" decided to also sign up for the experience and so we had a table of 10 as I remember. Italian, German, Dutch, and English spoken - with enough multi-linguals in the group to keep cross-conversation flowing easily.

B
 

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RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10/12/2012

On the CF...Walked from Ages to Burgos. A bit of rain early and foggy until I climbed out of Atapuerca. I lost the track somewhere on the descent and soon was walking with pounds of clingy mud on each foot. The main service of the soul-less walk into Burgos on endless pavement (did not know about the river route then!) was to pound off all the remnants so I entered A Divina Pastora as #1 for the day with reasonably clean boots.

Laundry drying was a bit problematic so I set up this rig on my bunk. Soon, every bunk was so festooned.


10/12/2017

On the CF...Tardajos to Hontanas, grateful for my first steps onto the Meseta which some people avoid but which many of us adore after having experienced its magic.

My family enquired as to a problem with my camera (dirty lens? improper settings?...) from the few pictures of the day. Nope! These conditions persisted just up to Hermanillos before wet moved in. In addition to late grain and timely sugar beet harvests, some of the larger tracts were being "chisel plowed", I assume to break up hard pan layers.

I was rather surprised about the "gentrification" of Hontanas since my prior visit. Initially dismayed, I found my response ungrateful and got onto helping some pilgs with foot problems. Albergue Juan de Yepes was a delight though I had wanted a reprise at St. Brigida.

Excellent, both of them, though I give "JdY" the edge for a first-class group meal. My "patients" decided to also sign up for the experience and so we had a table of 10 as I remember. Italian, German, Dutch, and English spoken - with enough multi-linguals in the group to keep cross-conversation flowing easily.

B
I always carry about 10 metres of nylon paracord with me when I walk the Camino for just that type of application, expedient clothesline. Can also be used to make repairs to a pack, lash something to the exterior of a pack and even be cut to length for replacement shoe/boot laces. Ten metres of it weighs very, very little and rolls up small.

I really like Hontanas. Such a lovely little town. One of my favorite on the Frances.
 

Latecomer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
VDLP (Sept 2015)

CF SJPDP-SdC+
(Sept/Oct 2018)
October 12, 2015 on the Via de la Plata

After leaving early from Ourense, we deviated from the path indicated in the tracks that I had loaded into Maps.me because we saw clear and credible arrows and other pilgrims turning. We continued up a long and step hill and were happy to hit a plateau. We continued about a kilometre on “Camino Real de Santiago”, so far so good. We turned left base on an arrow (see arrow circled in photo) that really sort of felt funny, but we still weren’t on the same track as I had in Maps.me so I couldn’t confirm it. After walking more than a kilometre, a local person driving by told us we were way off course, and gave us a lift in the direction he was going. After retracing our steps, our little misadventure cost us 3 to 4 kilometres.

During a break at Casa Cesar, we had some interesting homemade food and drink. Cesar said he understood how the arrow we saw might be a bit confusing. We tried to encourage him to get somebody to change it. That evening during dinner at O Refugio in Cotelas, we met some German pilgrims who made the same ill-fated turn.
Oct 12 2015 lost near Liñares.jpg
¡Buen Camino!
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
I always carry about 10 metres of nylon paracord with me when I walk the Camino for just that type of application, expedient clothesline. Can also be used to make repairs to a pack, lash something to the exterior of a pack and even be cut to length for replacement shoe/boot laces. Ten metres of it weighs very, very little and rolls up small.

I really like Hontanas. Such a lovely little town. One of my favorite on the Frances.
Yep, Hontanas is nice though it took me awhile (actually, a couple beers ;)) to get used to the change.

I have a paracord bracelet for backpacking but for expedient clothesline on the Camino, I typically just break out my spare laces and tie them together with an expedient knot.

B
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
October 12, 2015 on the Via de la Plata

After leaving early from Ourense, we deviated from the path indicated in the tracks that I had loaded into Maps.me because we saw clear and credible arrows and other pilgrims turning. We continued up a long and step hill and were happy to hit a plateau. We continued about a kilometre on “Camino Real de Santiago”, so far so good. We turned left base on an arrow (see arrow circled in photo) that really sort of felt funny, but we still weren’t on the same track as I had in Maps.me so I couldn’t confirm it. After walking more than a kilometre, a local person driving by told us we were way off course, and gave us a lift in the direction he was going. After retracing our steps, our little misadventure cost us 3 to 4 kilometres.

During a break at Casa Cesar, we had some interesting homemade food and drink. Cesar said he understood how the arrow we saw might be a bit confusing. We tried to encourage him to get somebody to change it. That evening during dinner at O Refugio in Cotelas, we met some German pilgrims who made the same ill-fated turn.
A bit confusing? You think? Quite the understatement. lol

On any of the Camino routes any arrow not related to the Camino de Santiago should not be painted yellow. It is not like it is something new these days.
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
Yep, not the 13th in my time zone but tomorrow sees house guests plus I have garden beds to put to bed for winter and new frames to build for spring planting. (Today was easy with the juicing and canning of the crabapple crop...)

13 October 2012

On the CF ....I surprised myself by making it to Hontanas from Burgos. At the time I was flagging a bit past Hornillos and wondering whether to turn back, I was caught up by a young man who was enthusiastic and avid researcher of all things medieval. We were having such a great conversation, we almost missed the unadorned entrance down to Hontanas.

It took no time to decide on St. Brigida as our albergue. (His mother's name and my grandfather's birth parish back in Ireland.) It was a delight.

13 October 2017

On the CF... Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino. Nice walking day but I could not shake some grumpiness. Then I recalled W.B Yeats and his comment on the matter:

“Our purpose here is to do good for others. What the others are here for, I have no idea.”

So, I laughed at myself, held a foot clinic before eating dinner, and then crashed completely. But not before I asked about the dog running around and not seen before. "His name is Voltaren!"

You can't make this stuff up....

Oh, the hay fork on the bunk? It was to signal that the bed was reserved, not meant to help settle arguments over shower or toilet accommodations. [Edit: Thought I should explain that last bit for potential pilgrims.]

B
 

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David Tallan

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (1989 and 2016), Portugues - from Porto (2018)
13 October 2018 I walked from Padrón to Santiago de Compostela. Instead of posting the usual "me in front of the cathedral" photo, though, I will post this photo of someone who clearly would rather be walking with me. In O Areal (42°47'57.2"N 8°38'11.0"W) on the Camino Portugues.

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alhartman

346 joyful days in Spain and France since 2005
Camino(s) past & future
Hope so!
I have done 3 fall caminos.
Oct 13 2008--Toulsana - Staying in Barran gite after picking up bedbuds in Auch.
Oct 13 2010 --Vezelay -Bazas in a homestay as is typical on this route. Difficult for all as my French limited to what I remembered from High School 50 years earlier.
Oct 13 2017 Portuguesa--final day on my dual trashed Achilles. The 7 km from Sao Pedro Rates (great albergue) to Pedra Furada took nearly 5 painful hours so I finally abandoned the walk; took a taxi to Barcelos, the train to Lisbon, and rebooked flite to East Coast to stay with family and get the tendons checked out. No permanent damage but took a year to get back to painless 10+ mile days. My last camino for now, but, like most here, I hope for yet another.
I have never tracked distance on my walks (too difficult) but do count the days. I have 346 since 2005 and would like to round out to a full 365 day year. Covid lockdown and aging body need to cooperate!! That said, I have so much gratitude for the discovery of the caminos as the anchor of my retirement years.
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10/13/2020 Camino Frances
Walked to Hornillos de Camillo. No hurry getting up in the morning. No need to walk in the dark. No worries about finding a bed due to overcrowding...except that by mid-October some of the private albergues in the smaller towns begin to close for the season. Something to keep in mind when planning a Camino. It was never a problem with me, but I did see some albergues already closed for the year the later it got in October.
I took my time leaving and got breakfast at the cool, hip little cafe across from the albergue. Cafe Babia.
Arrived in Hornillos in the afternoon. Great weather the entire day. All three albergues there were open. Stayed at a newer private albergue called the Meeting Point. Modern and clean. Paid a little extra and got dinner that night there. Communal three course with bread and wine. Was very nice and I met some new pilgrims I stayed friends with all the way to Santiago.
Cool looking fountain with rooster on top at Hornillos:
IMG_20181013_145738544.jpg
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
Stuck with reporting in Spanish time because of weather impact on personal schedule...

10/14/2012: Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino

Coffee, croissant, then rain gear on (as it was pouring) and headed into the darkness at ~ 8:00. Rain stopped but a cold, blistering wind started straight into the peregrino/a(s)’ faces - - stayed that way for the rest of the day. It was the type of wind that varied 15-40 mph – had the capacity to change your direction of travel if you weren’t careful. Shifted direction 45 deg, at random, so you could never get relief.

Dawn was brief – a hi-intensity light slit in the East. After that, an overhang of gunmetal gray crepe hung low in billows over an endless expanse of brown dotted punctuated with spots of green, both wild and cultivated.

No more aromatic wild fennel by the road. Fewer rose hips. Somewhat better waymarking in an admittedly simpler navigational environment. A few alfalfa fields, sunflowers being harvested, most fields stubble or fallow.

The day’s travel went on simply; a cup of coffee in a dot on the map (Itero de la Vega), a handful of mixed snacks and then moved on

Finally decided after nearly 30 km to dive into Boadillo del Camino and therein found a quirky little albergue that had a bed. Wonderful hospitality....”

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10/14/2017: Boadilla - Carrion de los Condes

“Currently resting and writing in Villarmentero at El Amanacer as I foresee no
time but for last minute edits at my destination later. This is a funky albergue
with tipi lodgings, free-range donkeys, scolding French Geese, and a flock of
begging Muscovy ducks. There are also two dogs and they do not like the heat either.

They move, at a glacial pace, and only when annoyed by the geese.

Enya’s ‘Marble Halls’ floats to us over the shaded breeze, a zephyr with a force barely
above the sigh of a slowly opened beer. Sadly, there is 13 km to go until Carrion de Los Condes where we aspire to a pilg’s bed in the Augustinian convent.

Cravings for Chinese cuisine have kicked in. And so, folks, on display here is a typical Camino challenge. Not big, no drama involved. The monkey mind just wants what it wants and will NOT stop chattering. One just has to leave it to exhaust itself. And, it will…sometime.”

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B
 

trecile

Camino Addict
Camino(s) past & future
Francés (2016 & 2017), Norte (2018), Francés-Salvador-Norte (2019), Portuguese (2019)
Stuck with reporting in Spanish time because of weather impact on personal schedule...

10/14/2012: Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino

Coffee, croissant, then rain gear on (as it was pouring) and headed into the darkness at ~ 8:00. Rain stopped but a cold, blistering wind started straight into the peregrino/a(s)’ faces - - stayed that way for the rest of the day. It was the type of wind that varied 15-40 mph – had the capacity to change your direction of travel if you weren’t careful. Shifted direction 45 deg, at random, so you could never get relief.

Dawn was brief – a hi-intensity light slit in the East. After that, an overhang of gunmetal gray crepe hung low in billows over an endless expanse of brown dotted punctuated with spots of green, both wild and cultivated.

No more aromatic wild fennel by the road. Fewer rose hips. Somewhat better waymarking in an admittedly simpler navigational environment. A few alfalfa fields, sunflowers being harvested, most fields stubble or fallow.

The day’s travel went on simply; a cup of coffee in a dot on the map (Itero de la Vega), a handful of mixed snacks and then moved on

Finally decided after nearly 30 km to dive into Boadillo del Camino and therein found a quirky little albergue that had a bed. Wonderful hospitality....”

View attachment 84975


10/14/2017: Boadilla - Carrion de los Condes

“Currently resting and writing in Villarmentero at El Amanacer as I foresee no
time but for last minute edits at my destination later. This is a funky albergue
with tipi lodgings, free-range donkeys, scolding French Geese, and a flock of
begging Muscovy ducks. There are also two dogs and they do not like the heat either.

They move, at a glacial pace, and only when annoyed by the geese.

Enya’s ‘Marble Halls’ floats to us over the shaded breeze, a zephyr with a force barely
above the sigh of a slowly opened beer. Sadly, there is 13 km to go until Carrion de Los Condes where we aspire to a pilg’s bed in the Augustinian convent.

Cravings for Chinese cuisine have kicked in. And so, folks, on display here is a typical Camino challenge. Not big, no drama involved. The monkey mind just wants what it wants and will NOT stop chattering. One just has to leave it to exhaust itself. And, it will…sometime.”

View attachment 84976

B
The first time I walked through the Convent ruins at San Anton it was daybreak - so magical! The second and third times after the sun was fully up felt so ordinary.
 

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2015); Aragones-Frances (2016); VdlP-Sanabres (2017); Madrid-Frances-Invierno (2019)Levante
It's still Oct. 13 here, so I feel like sharing one of my most magical moments on camino. This is a story about failing to get a photo. I spent Oct. 12, 2017 in Merida, seeing the sights with an incredible crowd of Spanish people. It was late in the day before I realized that Oct. 12 was a major Spanish holiday and a chance for local people to be tourists in their own city. The next morning, I left the albergue early and walked along the camino route northward out of town. I planned on having breakfast at Bar Aquaducto, a bar on the camino route on the outskirts of Merida which my guidebook assured me opened at 6:30 am. Not that morning. I turned away from the locked door to continue my camino and was suddenly faced by the sight of the Merida aqueduct high above to my right. Just below the perfect arch of the aqueduct burned one bright morning star. It was not yet dawn and the streetlights were still lit. I tried three times to take a photo with my phone, but the dark sky lit only by a star could not be recorded on my phone, trying to capture it from a lit street. Eventually, I realized that I could only hold it in my memory. I walked another 17 km before I found anything to eat, but I was full with the vision of beauty.
 

David Tallan

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (1989 and 2016), Portugues - from Porto (2018)
Taken on 14 October 2018, from Master Mateo's choir for the Cathedral of Santiago, later replaced when some foolish administrator thought a more contemporary choir would be better. Mateo's choir has been relocated to a museum. Since this is from Santiago de Compostela, it is on all Caminos.

20181014_091842.jpg
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10/14/2018 Camino Frances
Good weather. Nice walking day. Walked to Castrojeriz. Stayed at the municipal albergue, San Estaban. There were a couple of pilgrims I had already met already there, and overall it did not fill to capacity. Had a really cool hospitalero. He brought up a couple of loaves of bread and told us that everything in the refrigerator was open game, and encouraged us to use it. We three ended up making a pasta and sauce dish and had some of the bread and even an unopened bottle of wine that had been left there by prior passing pilgrims. That albergue is really nice and hospitable. Warm, friendly atmosphere. Castrojeriz is also one of my favorite towns on the Frances.
 

simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
The first time I walked through the Convent ruins at San Anton it was daybreak - so magical! The second and third times after the sun was fully up felt so ordinary.
I understand how you can feel that way as two of three passages I have aimed arrival for the low light of dawn. However, on a visit in broad daylight, my Camigo asked me to sit in the shade with him against one of the walls so that we could "read' the carvings and design elements for a half-hour or so. The wonder of the works descended upon us and we were transported back several hundred years.

Try it when you next get the opportunity. It is worth the delay.

B
 

ranthr

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
C Frances 2005, 2007
Le Puy en Velay -SdC 2009
Via de la Plata 2011
gr 653 from Oloron to Puente la Reina 2012
Gr65 from le Puy to Figeac 2013
Irun to Santander 2013
Porto to SdC 2014
Astorga to SdC 2015
On this day in October 4 years ago, on the camino from Logrońo to Navarrete.
 

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simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
On the CF both times...

10/15/2012: Boadilla del Camino to Carrión de les Condes

“Clear sky, cold morn as I set out with headlamp on. Dawn revealed a landscape eerily familiar to the “bench country” of southern Idaho - - minus Tetons, of course. Clear waymarks are back- - sometimes almost redundant.

Path & weather made for perfect walking combo. I clocked the first 6 km (Boad. -> Fromista) in ~ 1 hr. Slowed down after that as I was finally warmed up. There’s nothing like sunrise on the Camino….

Nice albergue in Carrion, run by nuns, right next to Iglesia Santa Maria (every town has one, it seems). Neat & tidy little place, well laid out.

No need to shower today, no sweat! (Did rinse socks and hang to dry tho…) Will see where the road & weather drop me tomorrow but 30 K is not a problem in the absence of multiple, severe hill climbs.

Quick walk around town then a group meal. The medieval scholar from our walk into Hontanas is back and cooking, with me as ‘sous chef’ (less pressure!) and he supplied cookies for dessert while the rest of us stood for veg, meat, fish, wine, and mineral water.

Lovely Pilgrim Mass w/ general & personal blessing for each pilgrim. Bonus: Today is feast day of Teresa of Avila.

Don’t want to get ahead of myself but I just may be finally getting the hang of this “pilgrim thing”.”



10/15/2017: Carrión de les Condes to Moratinos

Sometimes a Camino can go “pear-shaped”. The best you can do to recover is do what you can do with the resources you have. I fully admit that my resources were drawn down to near zero.

The day started at 04:30 with me discovering that the ladder down had been blocked with a stack of luggage. So, the day started by over-extending specified range of motion for ankles, knees, and hips. So, I started the day in pain. Irritations mounted throughout a day of slow progress until I sought refuge at Moratinos.

“Paddy and Reb were not at The Peaceable, but after making a donation and obtaining the sello, the young couple standing in as hosts were kind enough to offer me a beer which I shamelessly guzzled. I then diverted to Albergue San Bruno down the block.

Nice bones to the place and a good home-cooked Italian dinner. Got laundry done and then was recruited by English ladies even older than me for opinions on foot care.

Wound care, a boot re-lace pattern, application of maxi-pads to insoles, and all was right with the world.

The ladies were a bit aghast at my knowledge of such ‘delicate’ goods. All I could say was, “Wife and four daughters here…just let’s all be adult.”

The tittering that followed was from a Monty Python ‘church lady’ sketch complete with a drawing room filled with lace doilies, cats, and weak tea with lemon and milk.

So, on balance, I made a positive contribution for the day….I hope.”1602774798848.png1602774842271.png1602774876643.png



B
 

RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10/15/2018 Camino Frances
Walked to Fromista. Again, blessed with good weather. Mild. No rain. Not that many pilgrims on the path, and quite a few of them are familiar by now. I still wear shorts everyday and if a bit chilly just pull on my fleece pullover. Some great views from that hilltop just outside of Castrojeriz, though a bit of a steep descent, be careful future pilgrims. Rio Pisuerga was displaying some fall colors.
Stayed at the municipal in Fromista. Nice place. Well run and a cool hospitalera. Had an early dinner at nearby bar. Good old eggs, ham and beer. Everything you need. Carbs, protein and alcohol. ;)
IMG_20181015_085905010_HDR.jpgIMG_20181015_102043706.jpg44043274_1189406187881327_1201556103654014976_n.jpg
 
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Kanga

Moderator
Staff member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés x 5, Le Puy x 2, Arles, Tours, Norte, Madrid, Via de la Plata, Portuguese, Primitivo
16/10/2018
Arrived in Lisbon after a long tedious flight from Australia - 26 hours in the air and I am wacked. But I did walk from the airport to my hotel, and the hotel has stamped my credential, so I consider that the first leg of my Portuguese Camino!
 

Latecomer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
VDLP (Sept 2015)

CF SJPDP-SdC+
(Sept/Oct 2018)
October 16, 2018 on the Camino Frances

After leaving early from Lavacolla, I arrived in Santiago about 9 am. Got my compostela and certificate of distance without waiting. To kill some time, I went to Parque de La Alameda to see my girlfriend Maria. Attended the Pilgrim’s Mass. Checked in to my favorite place (not fancy, but perfect for me). Had a few glasses of vino tinto at a sidewalk table on Rúa das Carretas near the Pilgrim’s Office and watched other pilgrims arrive. A couple of people got their “tubos” containing their certificates switched when departing the wine session (one not realizing until getting home to Texas, but it was sorted out).
Oct 16 2018 Arrival Day.jpg
I spent 3 nights in Santiago before leaving for Finisterre. I became much more familiar with the city, going on a group walking tour, visiting the Mercado de Abastos, attending vespers at Mosteiro San Paio, and eating several decent restaurants (especially A Taberna do Bispo). I also stopped by to meet Ivar.

¡Buen Camino!
 

linkster

Nunca dejes de creer!
Camino(s) past & future
CF (17) Sarria - Portomarín
CF (17) SJPdP - SdC
CF (18) SJPdP - Fisterra
CP (19) Porto - Muxia
On this day, October 16, 2018, 17.2 km stretch between Carrión de los Condes and Calzadilla de la Cueza on the Camino Fránces. There was no food truck, but there was a rest stop with a picnic table.

En la vida eres un peregrino a la eternidad de dios ~ In life you are a pilgrim to god's eternity.
👣:D:cool:
IMG_6675.JPGIMG_6682.JPGIMG_6683.JPG
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
@Latecomer, I'd never seen your two "lady friends" on my four times visiting in Santiago. I thought these two gals were the only ones. Possibly there are even others around the city.
Screenshot_20201016-064739~2.pngScreenshot_20201016-064739~2.png
Sorry, can't seem to get rid of the full size.🤔Screenshot_20201016-064739~2.png
 
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simply B

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
somewhere between "not enough" and "way too many"
CF both times...

10/16/2012: Carrión de les Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

“Into get bkfst at the corner café’ @7:15 & had a ‘con leche’, pan chocolato & OJ. Came out into pouring rain so after a gear change, got underway at 7:45. The lights came up slow on a landscape of muted color as heavy rain washed out the brights.

By 9 the rain stopped. As the view cleared, it was easy to see the earth had shed a bounty of gold & green to prepare for a winter’s sleep. The thinly clad countryside was sliding under a grey downy comforter while a soft sighing of the SW wind sounded contentment.

Passing over the hills between Caldadillo & Legidos was pleasant in several spots owing to the aroma of sage, thyme, marjoram & oregano. Saw a few specimens of thyme & oregano but the other two escaped my view. Made me hungry.

More pilgrims rolling in as I write. The joint just hit “full!” at 4 o’c. Most report the “running out of gas effect”. Feel sorry for late stragglers - - next joint is 3 km more in failing light. Justifies the early rising & departure, I think…

Sat down with a group for dinner; had a nice time over veg soup & beef & the ever-present potatoes.”


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10/16/2017: Moratinos to Calzadillo de Los Hermanillos

“Made my way up via the less-traveled route on the old Roman road…still far more folks here than 5 years ago.

I opted for a shared room at the Via Trajana rather than the municipal albergue. I remembered the latter as…well, ”basic” is a complimentary descriptor. The plumbing was semi-indoor and room heat solely dependent upon the number of bodies present. Even so, I remember the evening there fondly. It was surprising the number of young pilgs rolling into town. Most were concerned with economy so figured it best to leave a slot open for one of them.

Excellent pilg meal of ‘lentejas’ and ‘merluza’ , laughs, and some quiet moments. For 10 euro, it was a steal!

While nursing our vices on the veranda, the proprietor appeared in a state of consternation amongst the scattered tables. Near as we could make out, one of the diners from the municipale had skipped out without paying. With the miscreant not in attendance and the albergue closing in just moments, he was fretful over the lost income.

After quick consultation, a few of us senior citizens over-paid for a bottle of wine by 10 euro and bid the gentleman a peaceful evening. All in all, we deemed it a cheap alternative to a late-evening uproar and potential international incident.”


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RJM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few times
10-16-2018 Camino Frances Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes
Got up with the rest of the albergue, took my time but still a wee bit dark when I left. Not in a hurry at all. On the way out of town I stopped by a bakery not far from the albergue and pass by it on the way to the path. Two nice young ladies running the place and I bought a about a half dozen assorted cookies and snacks, bagged it up to munch on when walking. Another nice weather day and I actually enjoy the flatness of the walk on this section. Was an easy walk. Arrived in Carrion and checked in to the albergue run by the good sisters, Santa Maria del Camino. Had plenty of time left in the day and went to the local peluqueria and got shave and haircut (felt like I was a couple kilos lighter lol) and stopped for beers at a cafe with some fellow pilgrims I had been seeing on and off the trip. Went to the supermercado and got provisions for the long, lonesome stretch I would be walking in the morning to Terradillos, about 17 km section with no towns/villages. Got the usual trail food for me. Dark chocolate, peanuts and some chorizo and bread.
No communal meal that night at the albergue. Seems like things winding down for the season and less pilgrims, though there were a fair amount in the albergue. Went to the pilgrim's mass and blessing next door at the church. I found it to be very moving and spiritual.
 
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Latecomer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
VDLP (Sept 2015)

CF SJPDP-SdC+
(Sept/Oct 2018)
@Latecomer, I'd never seen your two "lady friends" on my four times visiting in Santiago. I thought these two gals were the only ones. Possibly there are even others around the city.
Same Marias, different outfits (years)..

mariashttps://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/As_Duas_Marias

DougSDCconMarias.jpg
¡Buen Camino!
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
An interesting, yet rather sad story and am glad these amusing and brightly colored statues were made. I would never have known these facts without your input...thank you!
 

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