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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

Opinions on Meseta

John Fraser

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
April 2017
I did the first quarter and the last quarter. oddly now I wanna finish the middle.
I’m starting in los Arcos and I need to get to Ponferrada.
I have 19 days total, 2 to play with. I would love to continue on from Ponferrada to La Faba, but if I did that I would need to cut short the Meseta. I would love to hit Religious to see Elvis on the Camino.
I’m wondering what everyone thinks? maybe I do the Meseta in 6 days instead of 8?
not sure. Thank you all.
 
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I'm really not sure I understand your question. What response are you hoping for? To my mind I either walk or I don't walk, so if I am going to walk from Erehwhon to Llareggub that is the walk I undertake.

19 days from Los Arcos gives the reasonably fit walker, barring injury, sufficient time to walk to Leon or even the Maragata without strain. The Meseta will just be part of that unfolding landscape. Ponferrada falls easily within that time-frame and has easy transport links to the non-camino world. La Faba? And where you gonna go from there?
 
Did not walk exactly your planned stages, but it took me 16 days from Torres del Rio (10k after Los Arcos) to Molinasec (5k before Ponferrada) with an 28,3k average. I spent an extra Day in Burgos and Leon, so with your plan of 19 that would leave one extra for "just in case". So i would say it's doable, but a bit of a challenge depending to your personal fitness.
 
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Good luck with that. I've walked through Reliegos four times and never found the Bar Elvis open.
The more I read about the Bar Elvis being often closed, I realize now it must have been a stroke of luck that it was open in May 2017 when I stopped in with family members for drinks and a piece of complimentary slice of jamon for each of us...an unforgettable quirky experience.
 
I am a Meseta aficionado. The idea of skipping it . . . well for me, it would not be a true Camino experience without it. But if you absolutely had to cut it short, the obvious way would be to catch the once a day (I think) train to Leon from El Burgo Ranero which would save you two days. You would miss Mansilla de Las Mulas which like all Camino towns has it's historic charms, although if you only needed to save one day, you could arrive Mansilla de Las Mulas and catch a late afternoon bus to Leon.

Not perfect in that you would miss those two days, but you would get to see/stay in some of the Camino gems--Hontanas, Castrojeriz, Boadilla del Camino (for it's really wonderful communal dinner) or almost adjacent Fromista, a laid back agricultural hub that has it's charms as a real Spanish town irrespective of Pilgrim activity, Carrion de Las Condes (to me one of the top five charming and aesthetically pleasing towns on the Camino), Ledigos (solely to experience one of the most well designed and run albergues on the Camino), and Sahagún, another non-Camino dependent authentic Spanish town, all the while walking through assorted small bucolic hamlets in between.
 
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Sahagún, another non-Camino dependent authentic Spanish town, all the while walking through assorted small bucolic hamlets in between.
I was fascinated and intrigued to see these unique and interesting buildings which "seemed" to be made of raw clay and crushed grain stalks. I took these photos shortly after Carrion de Las Condos. I never saw them anywhere else except on the Meseta.
Screenshot_20230806-161130~2.pngScreenshot_20230806-161143~2.pngScreenshot_20230806-161254~2.png
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
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I am a Meseta aficionado. The idea of skipping it . . . well for me, it would not be a true Camino experience without it. But if you absolutely had to cut it short, the obvious way would be to catch the once a day (I think) train to Leon from El Burgo Ranero which would save you two days. You would miss Mansilla de Las Mulas which like all Camino towns has it's historic charms, although if you only needed to save one day, you could arrive Mansilla de Las Mulas and catch a late afternoon bus to Leon.

Not perfect in that you would miss those two days, but you would get to see/stay in some of the Camino gems--Hontanas, Castrojeriz, Boadilla del Camino (for it's really wonderful communal dinner) or almost adjacent Fromista, a laid back agricultural hub that has it's charms as a real Camino town irrespective of Pilgrim activity, Carrion de Las Condes (to me one of the top five charming and aesthetically pleasing towns on the Camino), Ledigos (solely to experience one of the most well designed and run albergues on the Camino), and Sahagún, another non-Camino dependent authentic Spanish town, all the while walking through assorted small bucolic hamlets in between.

I was going to post this in a separate post, but this thread seems like the place.

In July this year I arrived in Sahagún after a relatively short 17 kms walk from Ledigos. I think I got there about 10:00. I sat down in the Plaza Mayor which was devoid of activity at that hour. In looking around in the distance, I maybe could see four or five people. That was all. I heard something off to my right, and out of the blue (assuming my upload works) this happened:

View attachment Sahagun.MOV
 
Me too. The Meseta is the very heart and soul of the Camino experience, IMHO.

Absolutely agreed! Want to share your other four?
Difficult, of course, to narrow it down to five. Leaving out the grand larger historic cities, of which, to me, Burgos is the most beautiful. Astorga is close.

So, here are the other four, not just aesthetically pleasing, but all with a certain je ne sais quoi appealing character.

Puente de La Reina, Hontanas, Castrojeriz, Molinaseca, and Villafranca del Bierzo--that was five more, but the choices were too difficult.

I suppose I could have just as well included Estella, Viana, Navarette and Triacastela--so now 10. As a practical matter, I do not believe there is any town on the Camino that does not have charm and character. But, for me, those are my favorites.

Oh damn, I forgot Santo Domingo de La Calzada.
 
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It warms my heart to read these posts, and hear the Banda Municipal honking away down the empty street. I love Carrion and Ledigos and Sahagun, the band and the dirty adobe bricks, and the wide horizon and great huge skies spangled with stars or clouds or swallows, depending on the time of day or year.
I love it more each day. I live in Moratinos, right in the middle of it. This is my home!
 
. . . the band and the dirty adobe bricks, and the wide horizon and great huge skies spangled with stars or clouds or swallows . . . I love it more each day. I live in Moratinos, right in the middle of it. This is my home!
Rebekah, I think that is the most beautiful post I've ever read on the Forum. Practically poetry.
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
Joining the choir of those who love the Meseta. ❤️❤️❤️ My first camino in October 2011 - no idea of what lay ahead. It was magical. Second time was April 2013 - equally magical. Will be back there in late October this year - first time in 10 years. Can’t wait. 😎

IMG_2599.jpegIMG_2600.jpeg
 
Ha - I wanted to see Elvis in Releigos last year as well. But guess what, he was closed - on a Saturday!! Augh I have no idea if he is still in operation.
Bar La Torre aka Bar Elvis is most definitely open. Last night he was on top form with reggae followed by 50"s.and 60"s hits. He was singing and dancing, serving people and playing chess outside. He was offering everyone free sliced ham from a huge bag he had brought in.
He opens from around 5-6pm, so staying the night in Reliegos might help.
 
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I did the first quarter and the last quarter. oddly now I wanna finish the middle.
I’m starting in los Arcos and I need to get to Ponferrada.
I have 19 days total, 2 to play with. I would love to continue on from Ponferrada to La Faba, but if I did that I would need to cut short the Meseta. I would love to hit Religious to see Elvis on the Camino.
I’m wondering what everyone thinks? maybe I do the Meseta in 6 days instead of 8?
not sure. Thank you all.
You could take it steady on the meseta, not rush it, enjoy the amazing towns of Carrion and Fromista as well as relax in the sleepy villages. Why not fully enjoy the Meseta and not worry about having to get through it quickly? You can finish the Camino another time. Less is more in this case surely.
 
I did the first quarter and the last quarter.
More than that I'd guess -- walking in "reverse" last year, plus walking for six weeks or so (too much !!) on the meseta generally earlier in the year on my way to Fátima, I gained a much clearer picture of where the meseta starts and ends from a Camino Francès POV.

It starts a little after the top of the crest out of Nájera towards Azofra, and ends at the point when you start walking up into Astorga at the city limits (though there's also the smaller meseta between > Navarrete and Nájera).

Heading towards France, there's an amazing vista of the meseta stretching before you from a point of view just above Foncebadón :

WP_20221101_17_25_54_Pro.jpg
 
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Bar La Torre aka Bar Elvis is most definitely open. Last night he was on top form with reggae followed by 50"s.and 60"s hits. He was singing and dancing, serving people and playing chess outside. He was offering everyone free sliced ham from a huge bag he had brought in.
He opens from around 5-6pm, so staying the night in Reliegos might help.
Tried this tactic in September 2022 and the bar stayed closed all night….also closed this June when we were there…sorry I have missed it twice.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I once wrote an article about reasons not to cut it short, which may be of use:

Your article is the best case for walking one of the most important stretches of any camino. The view from the top of Alto de Mostelares is spectacular. I always leave the municipal albergue before dawn. Walking up to the top as the sun is beginning to rise is beautiful.
 
I once wrote an article about reasons not to cut it short, which may be of use:

Nick, you sure have an incredibly wonderful way with words!
On my first Camino I skipped the Meseta to spend my final week on "holiday" on the coast in Muxia, Lires and Finesterre, which was great. My mama always said "you don't miss what you don't know" although the internet has certainly whet our appetites to want to see and experience more.
On my second Camino Frances two years later, I walked every step of the way and fell in love with the Meseta! All your words and exceptional photos will whet the appetites of those who have not yet experienced it.
Had I had the opportunity to read your write-up beforehand, I probably would have been inclined to skip the coast, or taken a quick bus ride to those coastal towns instead. Thankfully in the end, both experiences worked out well for me.
It was a pleasure to read your article! 🥰
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I once wrote an article about reasons not to cut it short, which may be of use:

Great article: I must dig more into your website :cool:

I am always thrilled when I walk out from Burgos, bc I know I am having 9-10 fantastic days ahead, crossing my favorite section of CF: The Meseta! It is really the place for reflections, bc the walking is so easy.

The last few years, however, the Bar Elvis in Reliegos has been closed when I walked through. Fortunately, there's another one right by it for a cold beer :cool:
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I say, don’t skip a single step of the Meseta. I’m a huge fan of walking through it in its entirety. It’s amazing. 2013 and 2016 I was there and loved it. I missed some of it in it 2019 as I was in del Norte then transferred to Fromista. Walked to Sahagun then had to take a train to Leon due to a leg injury. Then was able to finish walking to Santiago. I was sad I had to miss some of it. I want to go back. God Willing.

Sept 2013
Santiago%202013%201st%20SIM%20Card%20184.jpeg
April 2016
Looking back at Castrojeriz.
IMG_1077.jpeg
Same day looking ahead from the top.
IMG_1080.jpeg
Same day walking in the vast open countryside. Heaven.
IMG_1081.jpeg
2019 leaving Fromista
IMG_3827.jpeg
BUEN CAMINO 😎🥰
 
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I was fascinated and intrigued to see these unique and interesting buildings which "seemed" to be made of raw clay and crushed grain stalks. I took these photos shortly after Carrion de Las Condos. I never saw them anywhere else except on the Meseta.
View attachment 153999View attachment 154000View attachment 154001
I think the architecture you saw was either 'wattle and daub,' or a different style of adobe. Remember, that the Spanish brought building from 'mud' to Central America and the southwestern US states about 500 years ago.

Nowadays, bricks are still made from adobe (mud mixed with straw), dried in the sun, then stacked, and skim-coated over to form walls of all types. I have relatives living out west who use this for property boundaries, patios and landscaping walls.

Back in the day, they tended to build a woven wall (wattle) structure, then "chink" it with adobe - mud - a process called daubing. The early settlers in Massachusetts - the Pilgrims - used wattle and daub. However, adobe brick style construction is more durable and is a better insulator against heat and cold.

After many years of weathering. the bits of sticks and straw mixed in will wear through the skim coat on either a wattle and daub or adobe brick building. I recall seeing this sort of architecture all along the Camino Frances, especially in La Rioja and Leon-Castillo.

Two walls - and inner and outer wall made of a woven twig mat, when filled with "mud" will produce what you see along the Camino. the further south and hotter the climate, the more prevalent this style of architecture. It is very clever actually.

Hope this helps.

Tom
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I think the architecture you saw was either 'wattle and daub,' or a different style of adobe. Remember, that the Spanish brought building from 'mud' to Central America and the southwestern US states about 500 years ago.

Nowadays, bricks are still made from adobe (mud mixed with straw), dried in the sun, then stacked, and skim-coated over to form walls of all types. I have relatives living out west who use this for property boundaries, patios and landscaping walls.

Back in the day, they tended to build a woven wall (wattle) structure, then "chink" it with adobe - mud - a process called daubing. The early settlers in Massachusetts - the Pilgrims - used wattle and daub. However, adobe brick style construction is more durable and is a better insulator against heat and cold.

After many years of weathering. the bits of sticks and straw mixed in will wear through the skim coat on either a wattle and daub or adobe brick building. I recall seeing this sort of architecture all along the Camino Frances, especially in La Rioja and Leon-Castillo.

Two walls - and inner and outer wall made of a woven twig mat, when filled with "mud" will produce what you see along the Camino. the further south and hotter the climate, the more prevalent this style of architecture. It is very clever actually.

Hope this helps.

Tom
Thanks, Tom. I hadn’t made the connection between the Spanish adobe and the American ones when I saw them glowing pink in the settings sun of El Burgo. Ranero.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
The two times I have walked the meseta I've had life-changing insights and made life-long friends.
A word of caution however. I also struggle with heat issues and I've only walked it in early November/ late October. not sure I could do it in August....
 
Here's what I wrote upon completing the CF (with special attention to the Meseta):

How strange to ride in a car! I'm done walking miles. I took a cab to the Santiago train station. It felt false and very confining.

As the countryside passed my window, I realized I had walked the mountains that now flew by. The green hills and valleys flashed by.
I felt a deep sadness. I miss the trail so much.
Yet, I'm now so tired.
Sadness, relief and completion overwhelm me.
I know the hills outside the window intimately.
I know the dirt, the stones, the flowers, the cows, the grass.
I know the smell of morning, before light reveals the reality of place.
I know the smell of hay drying in the morning sun.
I know the smell of cows and pigs.
And, I know the beauty of a sunrise and a full moon set on the same morning.
I know the kindness of strangers.
I know the closeness of the strangers that became family.
Oh, the joys and hardships in those hills that speed past.

Of all, the Meseta will be the most enduring.
I'm glad I can't see it speed by.
It is a memory best left as is; a journey into my soul; to places I didn't know existed.
While the mind fixes on a snapshot image of a rust-colored, rock strewn, gravel road snaking over fields of grass, the soul recollects the visits of angels.
I had friends turned family with me in Navarra.
I had companions with me in Galacia.
But, I had angels with me on the Meseta.
So much left behind outside the train window. So much remains inside.
Just like the back doctor in Leon said after patching me up, "It will take days for this to have its affect." Indeed.
I'm just realizing...the real journey has now begun.
I have known simple, intimately.
I've experienced slow, intimately.
I've reconnected to the earth, intimately.
Now, where will all this intimacy guide me?

Do not shortchange the Meseta.
 
Here's what I wrote upon completing the CF (with special attention to the Meseta):

How strange to ride in a car! I'm done walking miles. I took a cab to the Santiago train station. It felt false and very confining.

As the countryside passed my window, I realized I had walked the mountains that now flew by. The green hills and valleys flashed by.
I felt a deep sadness. I miss the trail so much.
Yet, I'm now so tired.
Sadness, relief and completion overwhelm me.
I know the hills outside the window intimately.
I know the dirt, the stones, the flowers, the cows, the grass.
I know the smell of morning, before light reveals the reality of place.
I know the smell of hay drying in the morning sun.
I know the smell of cows and pigs.
And, I know the beauty of a sunrise and a full moon set on the same morning.
I know the kindness of strangers.
I know the closeness of the strangers that became family.
Oh, the joys and hardships in those hills that speed past.

Of all, the Meseta will be the most enduring.
I'm glad I can't see it speed by.
It is a memory best left as is; a journey into my soul; to places I didn't know existed.
While the mind fixes on a snapshot image of a rust-colored, rock strewn, gravel road snaking over fields of grass, the soul recollects the visits of angels.
I had friends turned family with me in Navarra.
I had companions with me in Galacia.
But, I had angels with me on the Meseta.
So much left behind outside the train window. So much remains inside.
Just like the back doctor in Leon said after patching me up, "It will take days for this to have its affect." Indeed.
I'm just realizing...the real journey has now begun.
I have known simple, intimately.
I've experienced slow, intimately.
I've reconnected to the earth, intimately.
Now, where will all this intimacy guide me?

Do not shortchange the Meseta.
What a perfect poem. That is exactly how I felt as our train passed the hills that we had walked. Thank you.
 
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Here's what I wrote upon completing the CF (with special attention to the Meseta):

How strange to ride in a car! I'm done walking miles. I took a cab to the Santiago train station. It felt false and very confining.

As the countryside passed my window, I realized I had walked the mountains that now flew by. The green hills and valleys flashed by.
I felt a deep sadness. I miss the trail so much.
Yet, I'm now so tired.
Sadness, relief and completion overwhelm me.
I know the hills outside the window intimately.
I know the dirt, the stones, the flowers, the cows, the grass.
I know the smell of morning, before light reveals the reality of place.
I know the smell of hay drying in the morning sun.
I know the smell of cows and pigs.
And, I know the beauty of a sunrise and a full moon set on the same morning.
I know the kindness of strangers.
I know the closeness of the strangers that became family.
Oh, the joys and hardships in those hills that speed past.

Of all, the Meseta will be the most enduring.
I'm glad I can't see it speed by.
It is a memory best left as is; a journey into my soul; to places I didn't know existed.
While the mind fixes on a snapshot image of a rust-colored, rock strewn, gravel road snaking over fields of grass, the soul recollects the visits of angels.
I had friends turned family with me in Navarra.
I had companions with me in Galacia.
But, I had angels with me on the Meseta.
So much left behind outside the train window. So much remains inside.
Just like the back doctor in Leon said after patching me up, "It will take days for this to have its affect." Indeed.
I'm just realizing...the real journey has now begun.
I have known simple, intimately.
I've experienced slow, intimately.
I've reconnected to the earth, intimately.
Now, where will all this intimacy guide me?

Do not shortchange the Meseta.
Wow, well I guess that clinches it. gotta do the whole Meseta.
 
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I'm another pilgrim voting for the Meseta, and continuous walking the path. I have a sense that this is becoming the convention, no one on this thread seems to be suggesting busing over the Meseta, which I have seen suggested before.
Hornillos is one of my favorite stops on the CDF, I'd encourage everyone to go to the church service here,
 
I did the first quarter and the last quarter. oddly now I wanna finish the middle.
I’m starting in los Arcos and I need to get to Ponferrada.
I have 19 days total, 2 to play with. I would love to continue on from Ponferrada to La Faba, but if I did that I would need to cut short the Meseta. I would love to hit Religious to see Elvis on the Camino.
I’m wondering what everyone thinks? maybe I do the Meseta in 6 days instead of 8?
not sure. Thank you all.
I love the Meseta. My favourite part of the whole walk. Big vistas and a wild feeling . Do it if you can.
 
I did the first quarter and the last quarter. oddly now I wanna finish the middle.
I’m starting in los Arcos and I need to get to Ponferrada.
I have 19 days total, 2 to play with. I would love to continue on from Ponferrada to La Faba, but if I did that I would need to cut short the Meseta. I would love to hit Religious to see Elvis on the Camino.
I’m wondering what everyone thinks? maybe I do the Meseta in 6 days instead of 8?
not sure. Thank you all.
Hi John. I walked the Meseta last spring and it’s truly amazing. I had heard some negative things before walking it but you should definitely do it. Just make that you have plenty of water and sunscreen as the sun will take its toll on you. Buen Camino!
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
Whilst no part of the CF is “ compulsory (except the last 100km)” imho the Meseta is one part where you can “ go into your thoughts “, your “why am I walking The Way”? For those who live with a vista of trees and green grass the Meseta in late summer or fall can seem very brown and dry. But if you get the chance to see it in May or early June it’s greenery will blow you away. Buen Camino.
 
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We began our first camino in Carrion de los Condes and finished 7 days later in Astorga due to a clot in my husbands leg. We loved every step of our walk, marvelling at the scenery, the quaint villages, grand cathedrals, long stretches of trail through wide open fields, huge skies and magnificent rivers. We were humbled by the friendship of pilgrims, the compassion of hospitaleros, and the kindness of strangers in our darkest painful moments. Later, when we were told that we had walked the meseta, and began to hear and read all the negative feedback about it, we were astounded. It will forever be in our hearts as a place of beauty, adventure, peace and angels. I hope I get to walk it again some day.
 
I'm really not sure I understand your question. What response are you hoping for? To my mind I either walk or I don't walk, so if I am going to walk from Erehwhon to Llareggub that is the walk I undertake.

19 days from Los Arcos gives the reasonably fit walker, barring injury, sufficient time to walk to Leon or even the Maragata without strain. The Meseta will just be part of that unfolding landscape. Ponferrada falls easily within that time-frame and has easy transport links to the non-camino world. La Faba? And where you gonna go from there?
The question is, do I cut short the Meseta which now I don’t believe I won’t in order to go farther past Ponferada and then I go home that is the question
 
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Elvis was overrated, in my opinion. So was Reliegos. I was kind of miserable while there and was eager to get the heck out of that town. Just a weird energy for me, maybe because the church looks like an rundown old business building from the small Kansas town where I grew up, not like a house of worship on the Camino. In fact, I didn't really see the church in person; I've only seen photos online.
 

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