New old guy

[Former member 99816]

Hello Hikers. My plan is walking Frances after it's cold and before it's crowded. I've got plenty of time maybe I'll do 10 miles a day. Main pleasure will be to meet people... though at my pace the visits may be short!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Welcome to the Forum. I think you'll find a LOT of us older folks taking our time and enjoying the scenery!
Buen Camino!

 

[TMcA]

You are correct. If you are walking slowly, most people will pass you and only occasionally slow their pace to walk with you for any distance. So...

I suggest you try and chat up people at places where you stop during the day...for coffee, lunch, or a snack. And at the place you stay, if you are not eating family style, ask people if you can join them for dinner (should the Covid situation permit).

Buen camino.

 

[Gumba]

Hello Hikers. My plan is walking Frances after it's cold and before it's crowded. I've got plenty of time maybe I'll do 10 miles a day. Main pleasure will be to meet people... though at my pace the visits may be short!

In life we make friends for an hour, a year or a life-time.

I am a comparatively slow winter walker and met so many lovely people who would slow and walk with me for a bit (I walk with family so not a solo walker) and would hear so many fascinating stories or just idle chit chat for a stretch. Even strike up a conversation at a mid morning cafe con leche pit stop. These conversations will be forever etched in my camino memories. Sometimes we will meet up at the end of the day, sometimes a week later. When there are not many pilgrims walking you tend to get to know each other too! Oh, an language barrier be dammed!! Google translate can be your friend when you are talking in a group of Korean, Italian, Spanish and English (plus more!)

Also, if walking in Winter, you will probably need to walk the Brierley stages as the smaller places are closed - things start opening from mid march, more so in April.

Welcome to the forum and happy planning! Buen Camino

 

[mspath]

puttster,

Welcome to the Forum.
To help you plan going forward although at an advanced age check out these helpful earlier threads filled with useful links and posts

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/are-you-70-and-still-walking-caminos.59442/
and
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/60-and-over-on-the-camino.12014/

Whenever/wherever you do go
Carpe diem and Buen camino!

 

[Former member 99816]

I've pretty much decided not to start at the France beginning (mountains!) but even from Pamplona it could be a bit much. If I were to cut out 100 or maybe more km, which leg would be the best one to cut? Preferably the most boring scenery/fewest bars leg -as long as there was some public transportation way to get in or get out. Kind of a tough question to start off, I know.

 

[Gumba]

You will get many answers to your question @puttster!

You could plan ahead which legs to skip or you can walk a section and decide to skip the next stage or two and catch a train/bus etc. This is what we tend to do. Sometimes its because we had an extra rest day and we need to make up time, other times our children (the children were 9 and 11 on their first Camino) were tired and wanted to skip a stage (our first Camino was very wet and VERY windy, who could blame them!)

Many people would skip the Mesetta - the middle section, thinking it is boring and long. Depends who you talk to - I think the wide open plains are beautiful and not to be missed. We have skipped O'Cebrairo twice and are determined to walk it next time.

 

[Former member 99816]

You could plan ahead which legs to skip or you can walk a section and decide to skip the next stage or two and catch a train/bus etc.
Many people would skip the Mesetta - the middle section, thinking it is boring and long. Depends who you talk to - I think the wide open plains are beautiful and not to be missed. We have skipped O'Cebrairo twice and are determined to walk it next time.

I'm glad I asked because I didn't think of skipping a middle section. I was thinking Pamplona to Longrono but that's through wine country, no?

 

[Duayne Meyer]

First, yes you are right, you are getting to wine country. Over all, that stretch is very nice and not to be missed in my opinion.
Second, as mentioned, some would suggest if you are going to skip a section, skip it somewhere between Burgos and Leon (in the Meseta). I didn’t love walking the Meseta in October but did in May. If you have the time I would recommend planning to walk from Pamplona to Santiago, take rest days as the mood strikes and, if you find you want or need to hopscotch ahead a time or two, decide at the time. The buses are great.
The key to that approach is, if you are planning to receive your compostela you’ll need to walk the entire way in from Sarria to Santiago.
In any case - from one “old guy” to another - Buen Camino!

 

[C clearly]

Welcome to the forum!

I suggest not "skipping" anything. Just decide how far you want to walk, and find a convenient starting point at that distance. If Pamplona is too far, maybe start in Estella. Then just walk.

 

[Former member 99290]

I've pretty much decided not to start at the France beginning (mountains!) but even from Pamplona it could be a bit much. If I were to cut out 100 or maybe more km, which leg would be the best one to cut? Preferably the most boring scenery/fewest bars leg -as long as there was some public transportation way to get in or get out. Kind of a tough question to start off, I know.

Hi @puttster It depends on how much time you have? At 10 miles a day, that’s approx 50 days for the Frances. Add in some rest days, could take you to 8 weeks. If that’s possible for you (and how wonderful if it is) I’d suggest starting at Roncesvalles or Pamplona (as you say you don’t want to start in SJPP) and see how you go.

If you decide along the way that you want or need to skip ahead e.g. if the distance is too long between towns or not as many facilities as you’d like - there is always that option. I would be hard pressed to suggest a stage to skip as I loved every step. And I am one of those who thoroughly enjoyed the Meseta in both spring and autumn.

If you don’t have time to aim to walk the whole way - and you want to arrive in Santiago de Compostela - then I’d do as @C clearly suggests and pick the appropriate starting point given the time available.

Buen Camino

 

[VNwalking]

Welcome, @puttster! If it's any comfort, you're not the only old guy here. Age is no impediment.

I'd echo what @C clearly and @jenny@zen said. Figure out how many days you have, and where that means starting - then go from there. Every part of the camino is equally worth walking, even if it's 'boring.' The continuity is part of what makes walking a camino so wonderful.

 

[jungleboy]

Second, as mentioned, some would suggest if you are going to skip a section, skip it somewhere between Burgos and Leon (in the Meseta).

I love the Meseta and wouldn't skip it. Actually I wrote a piece about this very topic once and it's the most read article on my website. Here's the link for @puttster and anyone else who may be interested!

Six Reasons Not to Skip the Meseta

 

[c0484]

Hello Hikers. My plan is walking Frances after it's cold and before it's crowded. I've got plenty of time maybe I'll do 10 miles a day. Main pleasure will be to meet people... though at my pace the visits may be short!

As a 76 year old I have walked the Camino Frances several times. I have decided that rather than walking it in my usual 30 days I will relax when I walk it next spring. I am attaching my schedule for next spring. It is a very comfortable walk.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

One of the nice things about the CF is watching the landscape, architecture and looks of the towns change. For that reason I would suggest that if you want to skip a section it be PART of the Burgos to Léon meseta as that is probably the longest section with a similar feel. As a Texan the landscape may be similar to what you are used to anyway. Another way to handle this though is to rent a bicycle to traverse the meseta. It is the easiest section to ride and there are a good number of shops that will allow you to return the bike at your ending point.

Another reason I suggest part of the meseta (especially over an earlier section) is by the time you get there you will have really gotten into "the groove" and may no longer want to miss any section.

I thought I really would have hated the meseta but I found the whole thing enjoyable.

10 miles a day is slow but it is about Peg's and my average daily walk. You can easily lose touch with people. If you find someone walking at your speed look into staying where they stay or make some other arrangement otherwise you may end up parting company from each other through even little things like one walking a couple miles a day less or more than you or leaving an hour or two earlier or later than you.

 

[J Willhaus]

We also aim for about 10 or twelve miles per day when walking. You will meet people, however, many of them only for a night as they will walk further each day. Maybe start in Pamplona or Logrono. It's easy to get to both cities by bus from Madrid or you could start in a smaller town like Santo Domingo de la Calzada (also easy to get to by bus from Madrid). It has a variety of accommodations and a lot things to see in a small location. Best wishes for a buen camino.

 

[J Willhaus]

If I were going to skip any sections, it might be walking through Burgos and Leon. Take a bus into town to avoid walking through cities and out to the edge again the next morning.

 

[El Cascayal]

Old new guy, love this post. @mspath thanks for the information on over 60s on this forum. @c0484 what an amazing spread sheet.
A funny thing happened to me this past year: I am 67 though I spent 7 months thinking I was 66. Which means I was 66 for 19 months and just realized I will be 67 for only 5 months. In 2021 walked a “mini-Camino” the Sanabres in June from Ourense and in November the Invierno from Ponferrada. For the first time ever no rain at all in Galicia. It’s your walk and you will figure it out and truly love every minute especially in your thoughts. Buen Camino.

 

[JamesVT]

I've pretty much decided not to start at the France beginning (mountains!) but even from Pamplona it could be a bit much. If I were to cut out 100 or maybe more km, which leg would be the best one to cut? Preferably the most boring scenery/fewest bars leg -as long as there was some public transportation way to get in or get out. Kind of a tough question to start off, I know.

Just my own quick thought on your thinking that you will not start the Camino in France: the hike over the Pyrenees is challenging but totally doable, even for a slow paced walker. I did it at 75, slow as a turtle, but I was glad I did it. It really is the most difficult part of the Camino, but is a point of reference for everything that comes after. for slow walkers, the key is to take your time, plan for reasonable distances each day, and take care of your feet. Enjoy the scenery. I wouldn’t skip the Meseta. I loved being able to have walked a continuous straight line across Spain.

 

[G_the_D]

I agree with @J Willhaus about the entrance and exit from the larger centers (the walk out of Burgos is beautiful though). A couple of other sections to consider are:

1. Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino - The steep ascent and descent to/from Alto do Mostelares is short, but in the heat it can be very draining. The walk from Boadilla del Camino to Fromista should definitely be done though. The stretch next to the canal is spectacular.
2. 17km stretch with no services after Carrión de los Condes.
An alternative on this is a horse drawn carraige which makes for a nice ride!
3. The ascent to O Cebreiro.
There is an alternative to ride horses up to O Ceb.
If walking, the footpath is far more difficult than the route for cyclists (as I found out by a fortunate wrong turn).
4. The descent from O Cebreiro.
There is an option to rent a bicycle for the descent. Apparently it's a ton of fun and turns a full day of walking into a couple of hours on a bike headed downhill.

Regardless of what you may or may not decide to walk, I wish you a Buen Camino!

G

 

[Former member 99816]

I am attaching my schedule for next spring. It is a very comfortable walk.

Thx for the list of albergues. One of my pending questions is how to choose, this makes a great start.

 

[trecile]

The continuity is part of what makes walking a camino so wonderful.

This can not be said often enough!

 

[J Willhaus]

Some albergues have a reputation for modern conveniences. Others have a reputation for hospitality, etc. Some days you may want your own room and other days the pilgrim experience of sleeping in a dorm. Each day is a new start and a new adventure.

You will know after a day or two what suits your style, pocketbook, and preference. You can also look at guidebooks and the gronze.com website for reviews and services.

 

[trecile]

Since you plan to walk in the winter, where you stay will be more limited than those who walk during "Camino season" - roughly April to October.
This site lists the albergues that are open in the winter, and you should call ahead each day to confirm that they will be open when you arrive.

Pagina nueva 1

 

[Former member 99816]

What thoughtful and thought-provoking replies! I am so glad I asked. Pending more breakthrough ideas here, I will drink my way from Pamplona to Longrono and decide later if I can't make it all the way to Santiago.
It sounds like there are many options besides plain old quitting and flying home.

 

[irishwalker]

Buen camino whatever you decide to do. I walked across the Meseta twice and I had booked my flights to walk it again last year, shortly after reaching the age of 70, but due to Covid, I had to cancel. Hopefully I will get to walk it again. I love the vastness of the landscape, the quaint towns, the churches and canal. My two favourite albergues on the Camino Frances are Albergue Santa Brigida in Hontanas, and En El Camino in Boadilla del Camino. I have also walked the Camino Portugese, Primitivo and Inglese, but the allure of the Meseta brings me back.

 

[keith duke scott]

Hello Hikers. My plan is walking Frances after it's cold and before it's crowded. I've got plenty of time maybe I'll do 10 miles a day. Main pleasure will be to meet people... though at my pace the visits may be short!

Hello puttster
Your plan shows alot of wisdom. Walk in good weather and avoid 30 kil days
One of the beauties of the Camino for me is the ability to stop and smell the roses. If you hit a really cool town, stop and stay a day or 2. Remember that walking partners come in all shapes sizes and ages. When I did my Norte camino I ended up bonding with a bunch of 30 somethings even though I was 62 at the time. I think we all learned from each other and had a blast in the process.
Much happiness and walking bliss buen camino

 

[Former member 99816]

Since you plan to walk in the winter,

Trecile, no way will it be a winter walk, I hate the cold! Actually I originally planned on leaving in May but reading some of the reports here I'm thinking of pushing that back to late June. Also the Camino may be less crowded then and less chance of the accomodations filling up. Maybe...

 

[VNwalking]

It sounds like there are many options besides plain old quitting and flying home.

An infinity of them!

And an infinity of different ways of relating to what you're walking through. I relish walking into and out of cities, for example - but am aware that there are a lot of people hate those sections. And I like the long empty stretches too. Not everyone does.

The same goes for communal albergues versus private accommodation.

Once you've walked several days, you'll get a sense for yourself what is comfortable and doable. And never mind all of us in the peanut gallery.

Which is why planning is best done with a light touch. You won't know till you get there what feels right - and you don't want to imprison yourself in The Plan.

 

[trecile]

Trecile, no way will it be a winter walk, I hate the cold! Actually I originally planned on leaving in May but reading some of the reports here I'm thinking of pushing that back to late June. Also the Camino may be less crowded then and less chance of the accomodations filling up. Maybe...

Sorry, I misread your original post!
Yes, May is one of the busiest months at the "start" of the Camino Francés. I've walked it at different times of year, and until you reach Galicia, it's less crowded in June, July, and August than in May or September. It can be hot, but as a Texan you should be used to that. And you can avoid the heat by finishing your walking early, as you probably will at your planned rate.
But, on the Camino where your only job each day is to walk, you may find that you are able and want to walk more than 10 miles a day. Some of the tiny towns that you will be stopping in don't have much to offer in the way of sightseeing, and you might want to walk farther than you originally planned.

 

[Former member 99816]

where your only job each day is to walk, you may find that you are able and want to walk more than 10 miles a day. .

I'm also thinking 10 miles a day might be a too-low a bar. I'm walking at 2.5 miles/hr testing out my shoes and if I can't sleep till noon, well, as you say, what's to do every day but walk? The only places I'm really planning on an extended stay are the two golf courses I saw, in Logrono and Santo Domingo.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Some of the tiny towns that you will be stopping in don't have much to offer in the way of sightseeing,

Prepare for these little towns with nothing to do by reading up on and practicing photography. A lot of my favorite photos I took while wandering around these towns. Photographing scallop shells hanging off packs can be as much fun as photographing mountains.

 

[trecile]

I'm also thinking 10 miles a day might be a too-low a bar. I'm walking at 2.5 miles/hr testing out my shoes and if I can't sleep till noon, well, as you say, what's to do every day but walk? The only places I'm really planning on an extended stay are the two golf courses I saw, in Logrono and Santo Domingo.

As a golfer you don't want to miss Cirueña - one of the strangest towns on the Camino. I believe that it was some sort of planned golf community. The golf course is there and operating, but the town seems like a ghost town.
And in Logroño make sure and enjoy a night on Calle del Laurel enjoying the tapas bars there.

Calle Laurel Pinchos Guide: The Famous Logrono Spain Food Street

Calle Laurel Pinchos Guide: How and what to eat in Logrono Spain, with a focus on the famous Logrono tapas street, from a Spanish resident

fooddrinkdestinations.com

 

[Arniece2022]

A funny thing happened to me this past year: I am 67 though I spent 7 months thinking I was 66. Which means I was 66 for 19 months and just realized I will be 67 for only 5 months.

I laugh when I read this because I did something similar once. I thought I was a year older for about 6 or 7 months and then on my birthday realized what happened. So I got to be the same age for another year. LOL!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

As a golfer you don't want to miss Cirueña - one of the strangest towns on the Camino. I believe that it was some sort of planned golf community. The golf course is there and operating, but the town seems like a ghost town.

I've nicknamed it Chernobyl. I've counted about 100 apartment buildings there that in 2015 were all unoccupied.

 

[G_the_D]

If we're getting talking about Albergues, I'll throw in my opinion of some that I prefer and some that I avoid.

These are solely my opinions, and reflect what I look for in my Camino.

Prefer - Suseia Hostel in Zubiri. Fanstastic place and great hosts
Avoid - Jesus y Maria in Pamplona - The hospitaleros are great, but it feels like you share stalls in a barn. And I prefer toilet seats...
Prefer - Jakue Hostel in Puente la Reina. A bit far from town proper, lovely place though
Avoid - Albergue Isaac Santiago in Los Arcos - Too many beds per room, Very nice, but strict hospitaleros.
Prefer - Izar in Viana - Sonia is wonderful and the accomodations are very nice.
Prefer - Cuatro Cantones Hostel in Belorado - Great place with a nice pool.
Prefer - Albergue San Bol - Great little spot off the beaten path. Super hospitaleras and phenomenal meal.
Avoid - Albergue Santa Clara - Beds are not the most comfortable and the nuns are quite strict.
Prefer - Leon Hostel - Great place in central Leon.
Avoid - Albergue San Nicolas in Ponferrada - another barn/barracks feeling place
Prefer - Hostal Virgen de la Encina in Ponferrada - More expensive than a hostel but worth every Euro.
Prefer - El Ultimo Rincon del Bierzo in La Faba - Nice spot to stay if you don't want to stay in O Cebreiro
Avoid - Albergue Municipal de O Cebreiro - Way too many beds per room.
Prefer - A Horta de Abel - Casa Pacios in Triacastella - wonderful rustic place
Prefer - Casa Barbadelo (just outside of Sarria) - Great rooms, nice pool and away from the bustle of Sarria

 

[VNwalking]

Taste is very personal. So take whatever we say with a few kilos of salt @puttster, pro or con. You'll see for yourself

Avoid - Albergue Santa Clara - Beds are not the most comfortable and the nuns are quite strict.

Very nice, but strict hospitaleros.

These comments make me want to stay there. Having strict hospis means no party animal idiocy, or people noisly sneaking in after lights out.. Sign me up.

Avoid - Albergue San Nicolas in Ponferrada - another barn/barracks feeling place

And I have so much fondness for this albergue. Yeah, it's big. But much depends on the hospis, and when I was there it felt very nice.

 

[Former member 99816]

In just one day in this forum I have found muchos ideas to write down and as I learn more about each town I'll have more. . I'm not sure how to organize it, maybe in a spreadsheet or a word processor I can put on my phone and look it up as I approach a town? I'll be getting a guideook; maybe stick a piece of paper between the pages and write down good ideas as I come across them.

 

[J Willhaus]

One of the Albergue bunk rooms in Los Arcos where I stayed with 49 of my new best friends! It was fine. Hospitaleros are Belgian volunteers who rotate out every couple of weeks so some may be more strict or less strict than others. Not every albergue is like this, but some are. You can usually see how many beds per room on gronze.com

 

[trecile]

In just one day in this forum I have found muchos ideas to write down and as I learn more about each town I'll have more. . I'm not sure how to organize it, maybe in a spreadsheet or a word processor I can put on my phone and look it up as I approach a town? I'll be getting a guideook; maybe stick a piece of paper between the pages and write down good ideas as I come across them.

I use (try to use) the spreadsheet option. My first column would be the towns in order from east to west - you don't have to include all the towns, but those that have some information that you want to remember and refer to.
I keep a spreadsheet as I go with the distance I walked that day, where I slept, the cost, the type of accommodation (albergue, pensión, etc) and I note if there was anything especially good or bad. I find that I refer back to these spreadsheets a lot.
You will probably also find yourself conferring with other pilgrims that you meet along the way.

 

[G_the_D]

Taste is very personal. So take whatever we say with a few kilos of salt @puttster, pro or con.

Absolutely true. As I said, those are only my opinions. We all walk our own Caminos.

 

[G_the_D]

In just one day in this forum I have found muchos ideas to write down and as I learn more about each town I'll have more. . I'm not sure how to organize it, maybe in a spreadsheet or a word processor I can put on my phone and look it up as I approach a town? I'll be getting a guideook; maybe stick a piece of paper between the pages and write down good ideas as I come across them.

There are a number of good apps out there as well. I prefer an app over the added weight of a guidebook.

 

[C clearly]

I have found muchos ideas to write down and as I learn more about each town I'll have more. . I'm not sure how to organize it

You will find whatever way works best for you. And then after you finish, you will think about how you will do it better next time!

Keep in mind that those guidebook authors can take care of quite a lot of the advance work for you! Buy a guidebook and get to know it as you compare forum tips it, making notes or placing inserts or having a supplemental spreadsheet.

When you start walking, use the guide and your notes only as much as can enhance your journey - don't let the plans be an impediment.

 

[Former member 99816]

Lots of bunkbeds in there. Do the albergues have day rooms with tables and chairs also, co you can sit around and talk' and do things with people?
In addition to golf, I am fond of poker. If I traveled with cards and chips would it be hard to get a poker game going at the albergues or pensions? I guess gambling could be against the rules or even illegal; maybe that is a question for another day.

 

[trecile]

Lots of bunkbeds in there. Do the albergues have day rooms with tables and chairs also, co you can sit around and talk' and do things with people?

Most do have common areas, both inside and outside. Also, lots of pilgrims congregate in the bars in town. In the small towns on the Camino the bar is where you have your coffee in the morning, lunch in the afternoon, and a beer or some vino along with dinner in the evening. You will see lots of groups of Spanish men and women playing cards in the afternoon.

 

[Debora]

Old new guy, love this post. @mspath thanks for the information on over 60s on this forum. @c0484 what an amazing spread sheet.
A funny thing happened to me this past year: I am 67 though I spent 7 months thinking I was 66. Which means I was 66 for 19 months and just realized I will be 67 for only 5 months. In 2021 walked a “mini-Camino” the Sanabres in June from Ourense and in November the Invierno from Ponferrada. For the first time ever no rain at all in Galicia. It’s your walk and you will figure it out and truly love every minute especially in your thoughts. Buen Camino.

66 for 19 months...hilarious. But then in five short months you turned 68...bummer...haha (from another 60-something)!

 

[J Willhaus]

I don't know what games they play, but in the community bars the men gather to play cards in the afternoon. There is often a lot of shouting and loud discussion akin to watching a soccer match. I have never seen women at these games except as a bar employee. I have not seen a lot of cards or games among pilgrims. Only the occasional guitar player and pilgrims sometimes joining in song outside or in the common room.

 

[trecile]

I don't know what games they play, but in the community bars the men gather to play cards in the afternoon. There is often a lot of shouting and loud discussion akin to watching a soccer match. I have never seen women at these games except as a bar employee.

I have seen groups of women playing cards. And groups of men, but I don't think that I've seen mixed groups.
I've been in bars in the evenings more than twice when musicians and/or singers have come in for a half hour or so. Sometimes with some dancing.

 

[Debora]

If we're getting talking about Albergues, I'll throw in my opinion of some that I prefer and some that I avoid.

These are solely my opinions, and reflect what I look for in my Camino.

Prefer - Suseia Hostel in Zubiri. Fanstastic place and great hosts
Avoid - Jesus y Maria in Pamplona - The hospitaleros are great, but it feels like you share stalls in a barn. And I prefer toilet seats...
Prefer - Jakue Hostel in Puente la Reina. A bit far from town proper, lovely place though
Avoid - Albergue Isaac Santiago in Los Arcos - Too many beds per room, Very nice, but strict hospitaleros.
Prefer - Izar in Viana - Sonia is wonderful and the accomodations are very nice.
Prefer - Cuatro Cantones Hostel in Belorado - Great place with a nice pool.
Prefer - Albergue San Bol - Great little spot off the beaten path. Super hospitaleras and phenomenal meal.
Avoid - Albergue Santa Clara - Beds are not the most comfortable and the nuns are quite strict.
Prefer - Leon Hostel - Great place in central Leon.
Avoid - Albergue San Nicolas in Ponferrada - another barn/barracks feeling place
Prefer - Hostal Virgen de la Encina in Ponferrada - More expensive than a hostel but worth every Euro.
Prefer - El Ultimo Rincon del Bierzo in La Faba - Nice spot to stay if you don't want to stay in O Cebreiro
Avoid - Albergue Municipal de O Cebreiro - Way too many beds per room.
Prefer - A Horta de Abel - Casa Pacios in Triacastella - wonderful rustic place
Prefer - Casa Barbadelo (just outside of Sarria) - Great rooms, nice pool and away from the bustle of Sarria

Great reference list..."Prefer - Jakue Hostel in Puente la Reina" - a very nice outside bar and inside restaurant....and IMHO private rooms are nicer than the joint rooms (I stayed there 2X and tried both). I had to laugh at Albergue Santa Clara "the nuns are quite strict" - aren't they all??? haha.

 

[Arniece2022]

Just a note about skipping the Pyrenees - I understand there is a valley route you can take to avoid the strenuous mountain elevation. The route is St. PdP to Valcarlos (approx. 7 miles); Valcarlos to Roncesvalles (approx. 7-1/2 miles). I am new to this like you so I don't know a lot about it as an alternative. Maybe someone could chime in, but perhaps a good option so as not to miss the beautiful mountains. Also want to say - good call on making this post! So many awesome people contributing alot of great information. Thank you to everyone...

 

[Anamiri]

If we're getting talking about Albergues, I'll throw in my opinion of some that I prefer and some that I avoid.

These are solely my opinions, and reflect what I look for in my Camino.

Prefer - Suseia Hostel in Zubiri. Fanstastic place and great hosts
Avoid - Jesus y Maria in Pamplona - The hospitaleros are great, but it feels like you share stalls in a barn. And I prefer toilet seats...
Prefer - Jakue Hostel in Puente la Reina. A bit far from town proper, lovely place though
Avoid - Albergue Isaac Santiago in Los Arcos - Too many beds per room, Very nice, but strict hospitaleros.
Prefer - Izar in Viana - Sonia is wonderful and the accomodations are very nice.
Prefer - Cuatro Cantones Hostel in Belorado - Great place with a nice pool.
Prefer - Albergue San Bol - Great little spot off the beaten path. Super hospitaleras and phenomenal meal.
Avoid - Albergue Santa Clara - Beds are not the most comfortable and the nuns are quite strict.
Prefer - Leon Hostel - Great place in central Leon.
Avoid - Albergue San Nicolas in Ponferrada - another barn/barracks feeling place
Prefer - Hostal Virgen de la Encina in Ponferrada - More expensive than a hostel but worth every Euro.
Prefer - El Ultimo Rincon del Bierzo in La Faba - Nice spot to stay if you don't want to stay in O Cebreiro
Avoid - Albergue Municipal de O Cebreiro - Way too many beds per room.
Prefer - A Horta de Abel - Casa Pacios in Triacastella - wonderful rustic place
Prefer - Casa Barbadelo (just outside of Sarria) - Great rooms, nice pool and away from the bustle of Sarria

Great list. Havent stayed in all of these but agree with your ratings
and an added comment
Prefer - Jakue Hostel in Puente la Reina. And the private rooms have air con!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Most do have common areas, both inside and outside. Also, lots of pilgrims congregate in the bars in town. In the small towns on the Camino the bar is where you have your coffee in the morning, lunch in the afternoon, and a beer or some vino along with dinner in the evening. You will see lots of groups of Spanish men and women playing cards in the afternoon.

Poker isn't huge among native Spaniards -- the people in the bars are playing Mus or Brisca, usually, or dominos. Their pack of cards is different from "the norm," too. You can probably scare up a Poker game with fellow pilgrims, but be careful when playing in Moratinos... Jorge, the guy in charge at the Hostal Moratinos, is a poker shark!

 

[Mike200559]

Hello Hikers. My plan is walking Frances after it's cold and before it's crowded. I've got plenty of time maybe I'll do 10 miles a day. Main pleasure will be to meet people... though at my pace the visits may be short!

Just do your bit each day, enyoy and breath it. Take your time

 

[FourSeasons]

Welcome @puttster. Getting there is the hardest part and a summer Camino will turn you into an early riser. Also, don’t miss the Meseta if you love to be in open spaces, just you and a vast view. Ahhhh freedom.
My first Camino I only had the John Brierley guidebook and the sun to guide me. The rest was magic. Try not to put too much thought into it. You’ve got the time. Start as far East as you can then let the Camino guide you. You will find it really does provide.
WooHoo!! I’m so excited for you.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Taste is very personal. So take whatever we say with a few kilos of salt @puttster, pro or con. You'll see for yourself

We seem to agree on this. We each have different expectations and budgets.

Avoid - Albergue Santa Clara - Beds are not the most comfortable and the nuns are quite strict.

One of my favourite albergues. It has real beds in most of the rooms rather than bunk beds. The rooms are small and quiet. I met some really nice young people here and we shared a meal and great conversation together but this was also where I came across the first openly racist pilgrim, although this was not the fault of the albergue (of course).

Avoid - Albergue San Nicolas in Ponferrada - another barn/barracks feeling place

It is indeed a huge building although I was in a room with only four beds. Most rooms are small and quiet although if you arrived later in the day and got allocated to the huge overflow room then it may not be so enjoyable.

Great facilities, the showers remained hot despite the numbers of pilgrims.

There is a fabulous view from the common room.

Avoid - Albergue Municipal de O Cebreiro - Way too many beds per room

I agree that there are too many beds per room and yet this was an okay place to rest my head after an exhausting day.

Each to their own and you will find your own path.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Just a note about skipping the Pyrenees - I understand there is a valley route you can take to avoid the strenuous mountain elevation.

Peg and I took the lower Valcarlos route due to possible lightening on the higher Napoleon route. It was quite nice but, all in all, not much easier accordingly to elevation profiles I created using GPS tracks. The Valcarlos route has many small ups and downs that add up to almost the same elevation gain as the higher route. Click on the graph below to see details in comments.

Elevation profiles of the tracks from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncevalles

• Rick of Rick and Peg
• Feb 14, 2019
• 10
• sjpp to roncesvalles

If seen in a post click the chart to see a page with comments on the details.

 

[Former member 99290]

Peg and I took the lower Valcarlos route due to possible lightening on the higher Napoleon route. It was quite nice but, all in all, not much easier accordingly to elevation profiles I created using GPS tracks. The Valcarlos route has many small ups and downs that add up to almost the same elevation gain as the higher route. Click on the graph below to see details in comments.

Dear Rick and Peg - you have been kind enough to provide this excellent 'info-graphic' on a few recent threads that I've seen - so I just want to say thank you. I think it's one of the most useful contributions I've seen on the whole Napoleon or Valcaros route discussion. A picture paints a thousand words.

Thank you - from one who has walked and enjoyed both routes.

 

[nycwalking]

I've nicknamed it Chernobyl. I've counted about 100 apartment buildings there that in 2015 were all unoccupied.

Unoccupied February 2019 too.

 

[FeatherG]

Hello Hikers. My plan is walking Frances after it's cold and before it's crowded. I've got plenty of time maybe I'll do 10 miles a day. Main pleasure will be to meet people... though at my pace the visits may be short!

Hello Puttster & welcome!! You know the saying 'it's not about the winning, it's the taking part' ... you could associate that with the Camino too. Over the years, I've met the speedy guys, who are on a mission 'to get there first'; the pretty girls, who are exploring & taking in the sights, stopping @ the cafes & chatting to everyone; the couples, who maybe before have ventured alone, but now their partner is curious to discover what is this 'bug' that pulls their other half away each year; there are groups of young & old, enjoying each others company & exploring the newness of this group tour, & then there's the solo traveller, who takes it all at his/her own pace, meeting all these fellow caminoers along the way, chatting & coffee sipping & maybe joining for dinner at times, but doing it at their own pace, their own way, every day. I've kinda been all of these people (except the pretty girl, tho maybe felt like one @ times; the Camino does that!) & though I enjoyed 'each journey', I have to admit my favourite was the solo journey ... so much so that I did it 3 times. Going solo on Camino is a wonderful experience & though, as a woman, many tried to dissuade me, I would definitely recommend it. Your a guy, so no worries. The Camino attracts those who want something different; there's a challenge in the terrain & heat some days, but the people you meet, the views you see, the friendships you build, the quaint & curious locals you encounter ... the list goes on ... that's what draws people back year after year. I've never done the full Camino, so I'm just going on my humble experience of doing a week at a time ... 7 times, & I'm going back again. By all means, take it at your own pace ... the best way, I believe. You will love it! Buen Camino!

 

[Former member 99816]

Feather, I just read up on Calle Laurel in Logrono. wow. Now I'm thinking I'll need to speed up to 15 miles a day so I can average out to 10.

 

[FeatherG]

Feather, I just read up on Calle Laurel in Logrono. wow. Now I'm thinking I'll need to speed up to 15 miles a day so I can average out to 10.

Yeah, that's doable Puttster. For me, getting out early, even stopping for brekkie on the way, provided there is 'somewhere'; so check your map, always before you head out; then you'll arrive by lunchtime at a destination to stop for the night; again, checking map, albergues etc on your route always before you head out; I usually do this the night before, just to gauge my day & way ... you can always 'adjust' depending on weather, company, feet ... The Camino always guides us ... just go with the flow & trust your feet. I can't stress enough about your Feet! Whatever else you decide to wear/bring ... footwear is the most important. Wear it a few times before you go ... & socks are key too! Practice with both before 'take-off'! Are you using walking poles? Also, a personal choice ... but the first stage of the Frances, over the Pyrenees is pretty steep ... but stunning!

 

[David Bedlow]

I've pretty much decided not to start at the France beginning (mountains!) but even from Pamplona it could be a bit much. If I were to cut out 100 or maybe more km, which leg would be the best one to cut? Preferably the most boring scenery/fewest bars leg -as long as there was some public transportation way to get in or get out. Kind of a tough question to start off, I know.

Walk from Pamplona. It is one of the nicest sections. And spend a couple of days in Pamplona assimilating the atmosphere before setting out. While in Pamplona have your meals in Café Iruña, on the main square.
If cutting 100km I suggest cutting Sarria to Santiago, but then you will not receive a Compostela. Alternatively, many people cut from Burgos to León but I liked that section (I like it all).

 

[David Bedlow]

Just a note about skipping the Pyrenees - I understand there is a valley route you can take to avoid the strenuous mountain elevation. The route is St. PdP to Valcarlos (approx. 7 miles); Valcarlos to Roncesvalles (approx. 7-1/2 miles). I am new to this like you so I don't know a lot about it as an alternative. Maybe someone could chime in, but perhaps a good option so as not to miss the beautiful mountains. Also want to say - good call on making this post! So many awesome people contributing alot of great information. Thank you to everyone...

I think you mean the Baztán route from Bayonne to Pamplona. It is very beautiful but quite mountainy and there are some long sections. I did it in 2009 and took 6 days to reach Pamplona. Some of the stretches were quite long, so you need a certain degree of confidence. There were only two others walking this route when I did it, walking on my own; they were young and usually passed me out some time during the day....

 

[Former member 99816]

Walk from Pamplona. It is one of the nicest sections. And spend a couple of days in Pamplona assimilating the atmosphere before setting out. While in Pamplona have your meals in Café Iruña, on the main square.
If cutting 100km I suggest cutting Sarria to Santiago, but then you will not receive a Compostela. Alternatively, many people cut from Burgos to León but I liked that section (I like it all).

Thx, I've moved my thinking to start in Pamplona, maybe flying in, and as you suggest spending at least a day there acclimating. Though I don't think I can acclimate to the prices at the Cafe Iruna :-]

 

[Canche]

Hello Hikers. My plan is walking Frances after it's cold and before it's crowded. I've got plenty of time maybe I'll do 10 miles a day. Main pleasure will be to meet people... though at my pace the visits may be short!

Bienvenido. Buen Camino

 

[trecile]

I've eaten at Cafe Iruña and the food doesn't warrant the high prices. It's a bit of a tourist trip. Just go for a drink and check out the Hemingway sculpture.

 

[Former member 99290]

I've eaten at Cafe Iruña and the food doesn't warrant the high prices. It's a bit of a tourist trip. Just go for a drink and check out the Hemingway sculpture.

Very true. The food is not the greatest, from my experience. But worth a look inside. And on a nice afternoon or evening, an apero at an outdoor table watching life unfold in the square is most enjoyable

 

[Burro]

I love the Meseta and wouldn't skip it. Actually I wrote a piece about this very topic once and it's the most read article on my website. Here's the link for @puttster and anyone else who may be interested!

Six Reasons Not to Skip the Meseta

I agree about the Meseta. It ranked at the top of my experience

 

[FeatherG]

Hello puttster
Your plan shows alot of wisdom. Walk in good weather and avoid 30 kil days
One of the beauties of the Camino for me is the ability to stop and smell the roses. If you hit a really cool town, stop and stay a day or 2. Remember that walking partners come in all shapes sizes and ages. When I did my Norte camino I ended up bonding with a bunch of 30 somethings even though I was 62 at the time. I think we all learned from each other and had a blast in the process.
Much happiness and walking bliss buen camino

Oh @KeithDukeSouth, you are so right. The beauty of the Camino is indeed that it attracts all ages ... & we all learn from each other, as in life! Have had a cafe con leche with a 71 year old & walked & chatted for 2 hours with a 17-year-old ... both experiences memorable & happy! I truly believe you meet who are meant to meet on 'the way' .. as in life 'the people you are meant to meet will come onto your path'. Even when you least expect it, someone will come along, either walk alongside you, or sit beside you in the cafe. We're all on the same road, so why not share the journey? I try to continue this vein of thought when I return home ... not always as easy, but I continue to try ... & spread 'the Camino comraderie bug'.

 

[David Bedlow]

Thx, I've moved my thinking to start in Pamplona, maybe flying in, and as you suggest spending at least a day there acclimating. Though I don't think I can acclimate to the prices at the Cafe Iruna :-]

I did not think that Café Iruña was that expensive. And I, personally would not have missed the Meseta for anything. But you did ask about cutting 100km!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

... go for a drink and check out the Hemingway sculpture.
View attachment 116126

You make a lovely couple.

 

[Lindsay from Scotland]

Hello Hikers. My plan is walking Frances after it's cold and before it's crowded. I've got plenty of time maybe I'll do 10 miles a day. Main pleasure will be to meet people... though at my pace the visits may be short!

Hi Punttster
I’m 70 yrs old and looking forward to my 4th Frances this spring. I love meeting people so I start early, often in the dark,
and walk slow. That way I get to meet everybody!
I would advise not to plan too much and just let it happen.

Lindsay

 

[Stivandrer]

I've pretty much decided not to start at the France beginning (mountains!) but even from Pamplona it could be a bit much. If I were to cut out 100 or maybe more km, which leg would be the best one to cut? Preferably the most boring scenery/fewest bars leg -as long as there was some public transportation way to get in or get out. Kind of a tough question to start off, I know.

plz don´t think guess which parts are boring: you need some ordinary scenery to appreciate the exquisite ones !
- some will volunteer the view that for instance the Mezeta is to be rushed through, yet I enjoyed the quiet contemplation and the solitary walk there..
But you would be right in assuming Pamplona to be a good starting point.!

 

[FeatherG]

Hi Punttster
I’m 70 yrs old and looking forward to my 4th Frances this spring. I love meeting people so I start early, often in the dark,
and walk slow. That way I get to meet everybody!
I would advise not to plan too much and just let it happen.

Lindsay

Best advice ever Lindsay ... Love it!
Buen Camino my dear! x

 

[FeatherG]

Hi Punttster
I’m 70 yrs old and looking forward to my 4th Frances this spring. I love meeting people so I start early, often in the dark,
and walk slow. That way I get to meet everybody!
I would advise not to plan too much and just let it happen.

Lindsay

Best Advice Ever Lindsay ... Love It! ❤
Buen Camino my dear & happy meeting & greeting. I won't meet you on the Frances as I'm hoping to do Finisterre/Muxia (again ... I love it!), but maybe someday our paths will cross. In the meantime 'may the road rise to meet you ....' Life is a journey & we should take as many avenues as possible ... & cafe con leche all the way! Go With The Flow Lindsay!

 

[Former member 99816]

If cutting 100km I suggest cutting Sarria to Santiago, but then you will not receive a Compostela. Alternatively, many people cut from Burgos to León but I liked that section (I like it all).

I don't really need a Compostela. If I make it to Sarria maybe I'll cut down to Ourense and take the bullet train back to Madrid,
I saw there are e-bike rental shops so if I consider skipping 100k or so, biking might be a better option.

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

I've pretty much decided not to start at the France beginning (mountains!) but even from Pamplona it could be a bit much. If I were to cut out 100 or maybe more km, which leg would be the best one to cut? Preferably the most boring scenery/fewest bars leg -as long as there was some public transportation way to get in or get out. Kind of a tough question to start off, I know.

I would say start walking and see where it brings you.

 

[FeatherG]

I would say start walking and see where it brings you.

@peter Francisco's ('Be a in someone else's ' ... ❤ it!) This is a 'difficult' one Peter, because maybe what is boring, arduous, undulating for you is cheerily challenging for the next guy or what is noisy, colourful, enchanting for you is utterly 'the worst nightmare' for the gal who's flying past you! We all have our own 'ideas/dreams' about the Camino. Some of them are idealistic & built on someone else's photos/quotes/stories. Some of them are unrealistic & we wonder what all the fuss was about! On my first 'trip' I had no expectations ... except would I be able to 'keep up' & would they be ok? I was with a large group & didn't know anyone. 11 years later, I have been back 7 times, still meet-up regularly with some of the group & the girl I 'roomed' with is now one of my closest friends! Don't plan. Just go. The Camino always provides! Buen Camino Peter ... you'll love it!

 

[Kathy F.]

I've pretty much decided not to start at the France beginning (mountains!) but even from Pamplona it could be a bit much. If I were to cut out 100 or maybe more km, which leg would be the best one to cut? Preferably the most boring scenery/fewest bars leg -as long as there was some public transportation way to get in or get out. Kind of a tough question to start off, I know.

Welcome to the Forum and thanks for the intriguing question!

Perhaps, since you have in your mind that skipping 100 km would be OK, you just play it by ear and discover as you walk which parts you feel comfortable skipping rather than plan ahead what to skip. You might find that you don't have to skip anything or you might decide to skip part because of the weather, unforeseen circumstances.

I'm old (aren't we all) and I don't plan to skip any part of it - what if I miss the best part??!!

 

[David Bedlow]

I don't really need a Compostela. If I make it to Sarria maybe I'll cut down to Ourense and take the bullet train back to Madrid,
I saw there are e-bike rental shops so if I consider skipping 100k or so, biking might be a better option.

Oh, but do not miss a few days in Santiago!