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Detour to see the Eunate Church

ktchnofdngr

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
September '13, June '16, July '21, And July '22
Hey, All!

I'm planning for a Camino next summer (2022), and I've been wanting to do the detour to see the Eunate Church.

Does anyone know if it is currently open and/or if it will be open next summer?

Also, how well-marked is the detour to go and see the church there? This last actually concerns me quite a bit, as I have a history of getting lost--I've actually done so at least once my first 2 Caminos, and I was only able to keep it from happening with my last Camino because I was kind of obsessive about checking the Camino Ninja App any time it had felt like I hadn't seen a yellow arrow in like 5-10 minutes.

Thanks!

Ruth
 
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domigee

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
2021
Hey, All!

I'm planning for a Camino next summer (2022), and I've been wanting to do the detour to see the Eunate Church.

Does anyone know if it is currently open and/or if it will be open next summer?

Also, how well-marked is the detour to go and see the church there? This last actually concerns me quite a bit, as I have a history of getting lost--I've actually done so at least once my first 2 Caminos, and I was only able to keep it from happening with my last Camino because I was kind of obsessive about checking the Camino Ninja App any time it had felt like I hadn't seen a yellow arrow in like 5-10 minutes.

Thanks!

Ruth
Hi! I don’t know what the situation will be next Summer, maybe someone has more information. 🙂
As for getting there…. I too tend to get lost easily but I walked there twice and … I didn’t. From memory it is all pretty straightforward. You come at a crossing with an arrow ‘Eunate turn left’, that’s about it!
My first visit was perfect, there were just two of us there (in July) but the second time (also in July), a huge tourist bus arrived practically at the same time as me. It is a rather small place so it was overwhelming and I didn’t stay long 🙂
Worth the effort in my opinion. Ask around a day pr so before you plan to visit, some hospitalero/a will know whether it is open 😉.
 

biarritzdon

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF11, CF12, CP13, CF14, CA15, S.Anton15, CF&CI15
Ditch Pig16, CF&CP17, CdN18, CM18, CF18, LePuy19
The detour is quite easy. Finding it open is another issue. I went there one time and it was only because there was tour bus full of Germans that it was open.
 

alexwalker

Forever Pilgrim
Past OR future Camino
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
Here is the Eunate website, but it has no recent information on open hours. Maybe you can check back at the website as the time of your trip gets closer.
There is a section about opening hours there. It is open various days, but different hours. Look at the menu bar top left
.
 
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2022
Hi! I don’t know what the situation will be next Summer, maybe someone has more information. 🙂
As for getting there…. I too tend to get lost easily but I walked there twice and … I didn’t. From memory it is all pretty straightforward. You come at a crossing with an arrow ‘Eunate turn left’, that’s about it!
My first visit was perfect, there were just two of us there (in July) but the second time (also in July), a huge tourist bus arrived practically at the same time as me. It is a rather small place so it was overwhelming and I didn’t stay long 🙂
Worth the effort in my opinion. Ask around a day pr so before you plan to visit, some hospitalero/a will know whether it is open 😉.
Domigee, I had the same experience with the tourist bus when I visited the Church at Eunate.

I had easily taken the detour early in the morning and so I got there very early. In fact, I had a few hours to catch up on sleep - dozing lazily in the sunshine, back against the low wall of the Church, while a motorized glider softly buzzed overhead.

Finally, when the Church was scheduled to open, I hoisted my pack and prepared to enter. At that moment, a huge tourbus pulled up, erupting a gaggle of energized tourists from I-don't-know-where.

They overwhelmed the outside of the entrance and I suddenly found myself the LAST person in line. When we entered, I stood in the back while a tour guide talked about the Church - in a language I didn't understand (as expected, but I had hoped to ask some questions in my not fluent Spanish). I wanted to spend some time admiring but this was all taking too long and, well, I had a Camino to do!

I went to the "shop" to get a stamp, just as all the tourists finished their talk and entered the shop with me. Once again, I was at the back of a long line.

I got my stamp and quickly left, not looking back.

My experience - I loved the peace and tranquility of the Church setting. I will never forget sitting in the sunshine, napping, listening to the overhead buzz. The inside of the Church, not so special, just a blur. I didn't go back on Camino #2.
 

Smallest_Sparrow

Life is rarely what you expect or believe it to be
Past OR future Camino
2012: most of some, all of a few, a bit of others
If you want to practice put Eunate into google maps, start in muruzabal and “walk”. I’ve been spectacularly lost on several caminos but found this all by myself with no problem

Buen Camino!


92042197-9291-421B-902B-B00BFAC70DFB.png
 
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C clearly

Moderator
Staff member
Past OR future Camino
Most years since 2012. Hoping now for 2022.
There is a section about opening hours there. It is open various days, but different hours. Look at the menu bar top left
.
Yes, but the most recent indicator on the top, is for Jan-Mar 2021, when it was closed. I assume that was expected to be a temporary situation and that note would be removed if the hours had returned to "normal." As it is now, it just looks like the web page has been forgotten.
 

Lhollo

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
CF pt2, Belorado to Sarria, May 21 – June 12, 2022
There’s a big red/brown notice board on the right of the road when you enter Muruzábal, which tells you how important the church is, gives info and photos, and shows you how to get there (you take a left about 100 yards further along in the village). After that left, there’s another, smaller notice board on the right with the days of the week and opening times of the church, so you’ll know before you go further whether it’ll be open. I was there on a Wednesday at the end of August this year and it was open until 2pm then. The times will change, of course, so checking the website is a good plan. After the left in Muruzábal, the route is straight along a road between crops before finally hooking right in front of a small hillock, then crossing straight over a main road. It’s simple; just walk. I’ll upload a screenshot that might be helpful too, which I took from the Buen Camino app on the day I was there.
 

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alexwalker

Forever Pilgrim
Past OR future Camino
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
Yes, but the most recent indicator on the top, is for Jan-Mar 2021, when it was closed. I assume that was expected to be a temporary situation and that note would be removed if the hours had returned to "normal." As it is now, it just looks like the web page has been forgotten.
I thought it also inccluded openings in Oct.2021?
 
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Smallest_Sparrow

Life is rarely what you expect or believe it to be
Past OR future Camino
2012: most of some, all of a few, a bit of others
God looks out for drunks and sparrows. I assumed it would be open, it was and no one else was there. My only disappointment was I’d heard there might be an albergue and if that was the case I would have loved to sleep there…sadly no one was there to ask so I stamped my credential and wandered on to puente la reina. Now I feel really lucky it was open and without a tour bus.
 
Past OR future Camino
2014, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19
Various routes...
There’s a big red/brown notice board on the right of the road when you enter Muruzábal
Yes.
What I did one year was to stay in the beautiful El Jardin albergue in Muruzabal. I left my pack in the albergue, and walked to Eunate and back in the afternoon, just a matter of a few kms each way. It was closed, but very tranquil. Not a tour bus in sight.

Do check the opening times closer to your walk, @ktchnofdngr .
Buen Camino!
 

Doughnut NZ

From Aotearoa New Zealand
Past OR future Camino
2022
Hey, All!

I'm planning for a Camino next summer (2022), and I've been wanting to do the detour to see the Eunate Church.

Does anyone know if it is currently open and/or if it will be open next summer?

Also, how well-marked is the detour to go and see the church there? This last actually concerns me quite a bit, as I have a history of getting lost--I've actually done so at least once my first 2 Caminos, and I was only able to keep it from happening with my last Camino because I was kind of obsessive about checking the Camino Ninja App any time it had felt like I hadn't seen a yellow arrow in like 5-10 minutes.

Thanks!

Ruth
I didn't see any signs but perhaps I made my own path there anyway I didn't get lost.

Nevertheless, I was ultimately disappointed because in Mid May 2019 it didn't open until quite late in the morning, either 10 or 11 am. I got there around 9 am and didn't fancy waiting.

I think that on other dates later in the year it may have longer opening hours. I also think that it isn't open every day of the week.

I did get some photos though, including this one.
IMG_20190521_094542107.jpg
 

NYSE

Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances & Camino Finisterre/Muxia April 2019
Hey, All!

I'm planning for a Camino next summer (2022), and I've been wanting to do the detour to see the Eunate Church.

Does anyone know if it is currently open and/or if it will be open next summer?

Also, how well-marked is the detour to go and see the church there? This last actually concerns me quite a bit, as I have a history of getting lost--I've actually done so at least once my first 2 Caminos, and I was only able to keep it from happening with my last Camino because I was kind of obsessive about checking the Camino Ninja App any time it had felt like I hadn't seen a yellow arrow in like 5-10 minutes.

Thanks!

Ruth
It's well worth visiting, but i don't recall there being wayward markers after the initial sign. I got there early in the morning and was about to leave when the fellow who runs the counter pulled up. That was 10am. As an aside, I would take as many detours as you can find, they tend to extend one's Camino 🤗
 
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timr

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Several and counting...
This will not help you I fear, but may make you jealous...;) Post #43 [it is in an unrelated thread]

Long ago (now) there was a small albergue at the church - my favourite ever I think. One of the guests that night was an Italian (I think) expert in church architecture. He was very insightful. The church although octagonal, is asymmetric inside. He explained a lot to us.
 

mspath

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
This will not help you I fear, but may make you jealous...;) Post #43 [it is in an unrelated thread]

Long ago (now) there was a small albergue at the church - my favourite ever I think. One of the guests that night was an Italian (I think) expert in church architecture. He was very insightful. The church although octagonal, is asymmetric inside. He explained a lot to us.
Indeed!
 

Smallest_Sparrow

Life is rarely what you expect or believe it to be
Past OR future Camino
2012: most of some, all of a few, a bit of others
I'm impressed with all the early risers who got there before opening. :eek: You either walk really fast, get up really early (and I'm an early riser), or started really close to Eunate. I went back to look at my photo time stamps to see if maybe it had different times when I walked, or if I'd lucked into an early opening. I can't recall if I'd read the opening time or asked at my albegue the night before, but looking at my time stamps it looks like I left a bit later than I usually do (from Zariquegui so I may have had coffee at the albergue first which I usually don't do), still got to the alto del Perdon early, then apparently had leisurely first and second breakfast in the next two towns to arrive at opening time. Most of those leaving from Pamplona I would think don't need to worry about getting there too early.

I'm going to echo the suggestion made above that an alternative is stay in the town just before or after Eunate, drop your pack, and walk there (even if that means backwards from Obanos) if you can't otherwise make the timing work. I did something like this for the Cruz de Ferro and for Irache. For Irache I ended up having it to myself (a huge tour group arrived as I did but spent their time at the wine fountain, and I was leaving as they went to the monastery), and I was especially lucky for the Cruz. I stayed in Foncebadon (Domus Dei was a highlight of my albergue stays), walked up to the Cruz before dinner and it was deserted (on the 24th of May).
 

lt56ny

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
2021
There’s a big red/brown notice board on the right of the road when you enter Muruzábal, which tells you how important the church is, gives info and photos, and shows you how to get there (you take a left about 100 yards further along in the village). After that left, there’s another, smaller notice board on the right with the days of the week and opening times of the church, so you’ll know before you go further whether it’ll be open. I was there on a Wednesday at the end of August this year and it was open until 2pm then. The times will change, of course, so checking the website is a good plan. After the left in Muruzábal, the route is straight along a road between crops before finally hooking right in front of a small hillock, then crossing straight over a main road. It’s simple; just walk. I’ll upload a screenshot that might be helpful too, which I took from the Buen Camino app on the day I was there.
I was just reading this thread and I realized I knew about this place. I think you can see from the camino but I might be wrong about that. But I thought let me look this up to see the significance because on my first camino a woman I had just met and walked with for a few minutes told me she took the detour to see the church. We didn't really talk about it after that. Anyway I was about to look it up and then my Forum Angel - Lholla showed up and posted my answer. Thanks!
 

Smallest_Sparrow

Life is rarely what you expect or believe it to be
Past OR future Camino
2012: most of some, all of a few, a bit of others
I was just reading this thread and I realized I knew about this place. I think you can see from the camino but I might be wrong about that. But I thought let me look this up to see the significance because on my first camino a woman I had just met and walked with for a few minutes told me she took the detour to see the church. We didn't really talk about it after that. Anyway I was about to look it up and then my Forum Angel - Lholla showed up and posted my answer. Thanks!
I don't think I could from the Frances (from SJPdP) just from me looking at a map (your eyesight may vary :)) , but I believe you do see it in the background in a scene from The Way (when Tom meets Father Frank). I think it's on the Aragon route so undoubtedly from there you would see it. When I walked to it I didn't see it until I got close, but you really can't get lost once you turn from Muruzabal you're on a road with no where else to go unless you walk into someone's farmland
 
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lt56ny

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
2021
I don't think I could from the Frances (from SJPdP) just from me looking at a map (your eyesight may vary :)) , but I believe you do see it in the background in a scene from The Way (when Tom meets Father Frank). I think it's on the Aragon route so undoubtedly from there you would see it. When I walked to it I didn't see it until I got close, but you really can't get lost once you turn from Muruzabal you're on a road with no where else to go unless you walk into someone's farmland
Isn't there a church on a hill somewhere on the CF (maybe on the Meseta that looks almost exactly like this one? Help me smallest_sparrow hahaha
 

Smallest_Sparrow

Life is rarely what you expect or believe it to be
Past OR future Camino
2012: most of some, all of a few, a bit of others
I didn’t walk all of the Frances but I think there’s an octagonal church on a hill in Torres del Rio. I did walk past the octogonal church (but with a tower) Vera Cruz past segovia. 🤷‍♀️
 

Bert45

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
(2003) Francés, (2014) Francés, (2016) Portugués , (2016) Aragonés, (2018) del Norte to Primitivo,
I don't think I could from the Frances (from SJPdP) just from me looking at a map (your eyesight may vary :)) , but I believe you do see it in the background in a scene from The Way (when Tom meets Father Frank). I think it's on the Aragon route so undoubtedly from there you would see it. When I walked to it I didn't see it until I got close, but you really can't get lost once you turn from Muruzabal you're on a road with no where else to go unless you walk into someone's farmland
It is indeed visible in the background in a couple of shots in "The Way". But they are not walking on the Camino Francés at the time. I passed it when I walked the Aragonés. You can't see it from the Francés, as I missed it completely in 2003, as I hadn't heard of it. There is an ermita visible on a hill near Puente la Reina, the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Arnotegui. The church at Eunate is not on a hill.
 

Bert45

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
(2003) Francés, (2014) Francés, (2016) Portugués , (2016) Aragonés, (2018) del Norte to Primitivo,
I didn’t walk all of the Frances but I think there’s an octagonal church on a hill in Torres del Rio. I did walk past the octogonal church (but with a tower) Vera Cruz past segovia. 🤷‍♀️
The octagonal church (Santo Sepulcro) at Torres del Rio is not on a hill. It is almost 50 km from the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Arnotegui, which is on a hill near Puente la Reina.
 
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JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Past OR future Camino
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The octagonal church (Santo Sepulcro) at Torres del Rio is not on a hill. It is almost 50 km from the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Arnotegui, which is on a hill near Puente la Reina.
I saw many octogonal churches this year between Lleida and Logroño.

Though the second most beautiful one I've seen, even then not as beautiful as Eunate, was in Apulia, in southern Italy. Monumental and impressive rather than delicate and kind.
 
Past OR future Camino
Us:Camino Frances, 2015 Me:Catalan/Aragonese, 2019
When I came upon Eunate approaching from the Aragonese I thought I ran into a bit of bad luck as the parking area was full of cars and a bus and I was hoping that I wouldn't have to share my visit with so many. There was a well dressed crowd waiting outside so I asked if there was a wedding going on (surprising myself that I remembered the Spanish). Shortly afterwards the bride and groom came out beyond the outer wall for pictures and a shower of flower petals. I had the church interior and grounds to myself for a half hour and I think the church would have been closed otherwise.

Here's a shot of Eunate's ceiling showing that the octagonal layout is far from perfect.
IMG_20191109_135212.jpg
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Past OR future Camino
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
Here's a shot of Eunate's ceiling showing that the octagonal layout is far from perfect.
I have noticed this occasionally on other church "domes" I have taken photos of. I always thought it rather odd, but figured there was a good reason for "why" it was done.
 

Smallest_Sparrow

Life is rarely what you expect or believe it to be
Past OR future Camino
2012: most of some, all of a few, a bit of others
When I came upon Eunate approaching from the Aragonese I thought I ran into a bit of bad luck as the parking area was full of cars and a bus and I was hoping that I wouldn't have to share my visit with so many. There was a well dressed crowd waiting outside so I asked if there was a wedding going on (surprising myself that I remembered the Spanish). Shortly afterwards the bride and groom came out beyond the outer wall for pictures and a shower of flower petals. I had the church interior and grounds to myself for a half hour and I think the church would have been closed otherwise.

Here's a shot of Eunate's ceiling showing that the octagonal layout is far from perfect.
View attachment 110596
I’m wondering how many of their wedding photos have a pilgrim in the background 😀
 
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Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Past OR future Camino
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
I have always regretted both times not taking the detour to Eunate.
If I walk the France route again, I will make it a priority.
Also, I have always regretted not taking the Variant to Samos...that said, I do not regret not taking the variant Dragontes out of Vilafranca del Bierzo, although I read it is better marked than in the past.🙄...but I digress.
 

alhartman

2005-2017 Delightful 346 days in Spain and France.
Past OR future Camino
2017
Stopped there in 2008 finishing the Aragones. It is a must do and seemed at the time to be maybe 1km from the CF but Gronze says 2.5--so just a half hour each way. Seemed pretty easy and well marked. DId have tea and snacks with the hospitalero and wish we had been able to stay. IMO part of the Camino magic. Do it if possible. I don't think it has an albergue any longer.
 

Doughnut NZ

From Aotearoa New Zealand
Past OR future Camino
2022
I'm impressed with all the early risers who got there before opening. :eek: You either walk really fast, get up really early (and I'm an early riser), or started really close to Eunate. I went back to look at my photo time stamps to see if maybe it had different times when I walked, or if I'd lucked into an early opening. I can't recall if I'd read the opening time or asked at my albegue the night before, but looking at my time stamps it looks like I left a bit later than I usually do (from Zariquegui so I may have had coffee at the albergue first which I usually don't do), still got to the alto del Perdon early, then apparently had leisurely first and second breakfast in the next two towns to arrive at opening time. Most of those leaving from Pamplona I would think don't need to worry about getting there too early.

I'm going to echo the suggestion made above that an alternative is stay in the town just before or after Eunate, drop your pack, and walk there (even if that means backwards from Obanos) if you can't otherwise make the timing work. I did something like this for the Cruz de Ferro and for Irache. For Irache I ended up having it to myself (a huge tour group arrived as I did but spent their time at the wine fountain, and I was leaving as they went to the monastery), and I was especially lucky for the Cruz. I stayed in Foncebadon (Domus Dei was a highlight of my albergue stays), walked up to the Cruz before dinner and it was deserted (on the 24th of May).
I walked directly from Uterga where I stayed the night, which is why there were no signs and why I got there before opening time.
 

Becky 59

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (May 2018)
Camino Ingles (Aug 2019)
When I walked by recently, the sign on the main Francés route indicated the fall hours are completely closed M-Th and limited hours on weekends. It had more extended hours during the summer. Worth checking closer to your travel time
 
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Davybhoy

Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances (August 2019)
Portuguese (planned August 2020)
I walked directly from Uterga where I stayed the night, which is why there were no signs and why I got there before opening time.
ahhh - like yourself we stayed in Uterga and as a result arrived at Eunate way too early. We knew the church would be closed but thought that at the very least we could walk around the arches. Unfortunately not, as the gates,even to the immediate grounds, were locked.

In hindsight we should have waited the 90 minutes or so for the church to be opened but it was so early into our Camino (day 6) and we (I) was still very much in "we need to get to town X by time Y" mode. It was another couple of weeks before I relaxed and let time go and felt much better for it!
 

Smallest_Sparrow

Life is rarely what you expect or believe it to be
Past OR future Camino
2012: most of some, all of a few, a bit of others
Was it open? No-one seems to be able to get into that one.

(Yes it is Torres del Rio.)
No. No one near by on whom to use my sad/expectant pilgrim face. But I took a picture of the interior posted on the sign and it looks sort of like the hazy pictures taken of other interiors on my 2012 iPhone…so sometimes when I scroll through pics I think “hey I don’t recall getting inside” then I remember I didn’t 🙄
 

shefollowsshells

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Several alone and with children
Hey, All!

I'm planning for a Camino next summer (2022), and I've been wanting to do the detour to see the Eunate Church.

Does anyone know if it is currently open and/or if it will be open next summer?

Also, how well-marked is the detour to go and see the church there? This last actually concerns me quite a bit, as I have a history of getting lost--I've actually done so at least once my first 2 Caminos, and I was only able to keep it from happening with my last Camino because I was kind of obsessive about checking the Camino Ninja App any time it had felt like I hadn't seen a yellow arrow in like 5-10 minutes.

Thanks!

Ruth
closed when we walked through about two and a half weeks ago, stayed there no e years ago… but 100 percent went there again! One of my best camino moments!
 

DavidCanadian

New Member
Hi! I don’t know what the situation will be next Summer, maybe someone has more information. 🙂
As for getting there…. I too tend to get lost easily but I walked there twice and … I didn’t. From memory it is all pretty straightforward. You come at a crossing with an arrow ‘Eunate turn left’, that’s about it!
My first visit was perfect, there were just two of us there (in July) but the second time (also in July), a huge tourist bus arrived practically at the same time as me. It is a rather small place so it was overwhelming and I didn’t stay long 🙂
Worth the effort in my opinion. Ask around a day pr so before you plan to visit, some hospitalero/a will know whether it is open 😉.
We walked past it when we were walking the Aragones Camino. It was a Monday and it was closed on Mondays. That was a few years ago. Perhaps one day we will visit the interior.
 
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BarbaraW

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Past OR future Camino
2019
I detoured to Eunate from the CF in 2019, and thought it well worth a couple of extra miles. I was with friends who had a map on a phone and I had the Brierley guide but we had trouble working out which way we should walk out of Orbigos. As we were puzzling a lady with a wheeled walking frame came tottering up to help us. . She gamely led us to the edge of the built up area and was about to launch herself down an incredibly steep road to the main N 6062 road below. Fearful of an accident we tried to dissuade her but she was absolutely insistent, and ended up walking down to the bottom (and then back up again!) supported by two of us . She later told us she was 88. I regret to say that we failed to follow her very detailed and rapid Spanish instructions and ended up walking along the road, though there is a much nicer route which goes through fields via the Carretera del Cementario. Such kindness.

I don't recall any signs.
 

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